Trek 5500 reviews?
Rivermist
Anyone have experience with that bike?
psycholist
"Rivermist" <ne...@nomail.com> wrote in message
news:15GBc.154761$Ly.126810@attbi_s01...
> Am thinking about buying the Trek 5500.
>
> Anyone have experience with that bike?
>
Nope ... nobody here.
It's the Toyota Camry of bicycles. Go on a century ride and probably 40% of
the riders are on Trek 5500s.
You can't go wrong with a Trek 5500. I've had three. I crashed one and
another got wiped out when a car hit me. They're light and durable and
handle well. The ride is stiff, but smooth. Actually, if there's one knock
on the bike, it's that the ride is a little ... dull. I didn't understand
what people meant by that until I bought a nice aluminum/carbon frame. It
just seems livelier and zippier in ways that are hard to define.
But the Trek 5500 is a very fine bike with a very fine pedigree. It's
definately a fast bike. It's also a comfortable bike for long rides. And
lastly, it's backed by Trek who, for the most part, is pretty decent to
deal with if you have warranty issues.
Bob C.
Larry
went back to Trek and the repainted it for free. Very limited choice in
colors and finishes. They can't repaint to the original unless it is in the
same year. The repainted one sucked. Left dirt under the paint, missed spots
and this paint chipped off. If you like a well finished bike look for
another brand. I sold the frame cheap went for a better finish. The ride
quality is OK but kind of soft. Go try other brands. There are quite a few
that look and ride much better. And remember Lance gets paid to ride Trek.
"Rivermist" <ne...@nomail.com> wrote in message
news:15GBc.154761$Ly.126810@attbi_s01...
psycholist
"Larry" <som...@microsoft.com> wrote in message
news:5zKBc.129460$3x.10803@attbi_s54...
Lance won't ride with it if he can't win with it.
I'd also say the attention to the finishing process is lacking. I just
don't care much about that. The bike is a solid performer and the company
stands behind it.
One additional point ... relative to many bikes these days, the 5500 is a
decent value. That's quite relative, but I do believe they offer a lot for
the money versus many other brands.
Oh ... one more thing, still. I was with a guy on a ride a couple of weeks
ago who just got his new Project One 5900 with DA 10 speed. I know it's not
a 5500, but the paint job could be had for the 5500 as well and it was
jaw-dropping gorgeous. It was these two shades off blue with swirly
thingies and it just looked spectacular. It was about the coolest-looking
bike I've ever seen. Didn't get an up-close inspection, though.
Bob C.
Larry
having to pay $650.00 more.
Take a closer look and see what you think. My LBS had a Madone 5.9 with a
project one finish that the customer refused because of grit under the paint
and stickers that were 13/4 off from one end to the other. And by the way
that bike cost $6400.00
"psycholist" <tech...@wctel.net> wrote in message
news:cb7ugm$9hka$1...@news3.infoave.net...
Monty
comfortable and fast.
This spring I sold the 5500 and bought a 5900. I have 4,800 miles on the
5900 this season. Same thing, Very comfortable and fast. I have no regrets
with either bike.
Both have beautiful finishes! Have a look:
http://nanandmont.com/ebay/b6.jpg
http://nanandmont.com/bike/2002/5900-cloud-9.jpg
"Larry" <som...@microsoft.com> wrote in message
news:5zKBc.129460$3x.10803@attbi_s54...
psycholist
You paid $4,000 for yours?!!!!??
Bob C.
H. M. Leary
wrote:
> Am thinking about buying the Trek 5500.
>
> Anyone have experience with that bike?
>
>
The 5500 is an OCLV 120 frameset just like the 5200 , which IMNSHO is the best
buy for the buck.
The difference is Durace 10s versus Ultegra.
Take a look at the Calfee Luna Pro for truly custom CF.
HAND
--
łFreedom Is a Light for Which Many Have Died in Darknessł
- Tomb of the unknown - American Revolution
Glenn Civello
and nearly 300 lbs... but plan on losing about 40 lbs. I have two bikes.
One is a 1993 Bridgestone G6 (26" wheels") and the other is a Specialized
("Limited") Expedition (26" wheels.) I use the Bridgestone for commuting
and the Expedition for "joy-rides." The problem with the Expedition is that
due, to the heavy front suspension forks, the bike has no "zip" to it. So
I'm considering a 3rd bike. My Bridgestone has a chromaly frame, w/o
suspension forks and I actually prefer the ride -- for long distances at
least-- to my Specialized. IMO, the aluminum frame of the Expedition makes
for a less smooth ride than could be attained if it were chromoly. But
where can one find new bicycle these days w/ a CroMo frame that's in the
price range I looking at?
What I'm looking for is a bicyle that has a CroMo frame, is < $500, w/ NO
front suspension fork (but HAS seat-post suspension) has 700cm wheels, SRAM
grip shifters, and has handlebars that will allow me to ride in an upright
position (a must, due to back problems). The bike would be used on a 12
mile bike path and occasionally on the street. By the way, I'm wondering
if a 700cm wheel frame is going to be a problem because of my weight? - ( I
won't be pulling and wheelies or jumping curves)
I know that Jamis once made an Aragon (at $300) that had a CroMo frame but
it has been discontinued in favor of aluminum. Bottom line is I simply
prefer the ride of ChoMo and I'm looking for a bike that different from what
I already have. Preferably something with some zip to it. Is what I'm
looking for impossibe, in a new bike, without having it done "custom?" Sure
would apprecitate some input.
Thanks
Glenn
Mike Jacoubowsky
> it has been discontinued in favor of aluminum. Bottom line is I simply
> prefer the ride of ChoMo and I'm looking for a bike that different from
what
> I already have. Preferably something with some zip to it. Is what I'm
> looking for impossibe, in a new bike, without having it done "custom?"
Sure
> would apprecitate some input.
In a larger-sized frame, I'm rather surprised you prefer the "ride" of a
steel frame. Why? Because, due to tubing diameters used on steel frames,
larger-sized bikes tend to be a bit flexy compared to aluminum. A
manufacturer *could* get around this, by using larger-diameter tubing, but
they generally don't due to both the expense of using a special tubeset and
the added weight. And, as has been often pointed out here, if you want a
softer ride, just go to a bigger tire.
At your price range (less than $500), you could start with a bike like the
TREK 7300FX, make whatever changes you need to, and probably still be within
your price range.
--Mike-- Chain Reaction Bicycles
www.ChainReactionBicycles.com
"Glenn Civello" <g.ci...@oit.umass.edu> wrote in message
news:40d84522$1...@news-1.oit.umass.edu...
Glenn Civello
ride of a steel frame. You're spot-on that steel has more flex to it than
aluminum. And that's why the aluminum-ride is less "forgiving"... every
road bump and dip gets amplified. I'm using a Brooks B-17 saddle on my
Bridgestone cromo and have no complaints about comfort. A long trip for me
would be 10-12 miles, with some moderate hill climbing.... (actually, there
is one "killer-hill" that I attempt to climb). The aluminum bike has heavy
suspension forks that are necessary to cushion the stiffness of the aluminum
ride. I don't find suspension forks necessary w/ a cromo. Of course, I
would prefer titanium but the price is prohibiting in my case. I do like
suspension in the seatpost, however. Do you (or anyone) know if there is a
significant weight difference between that and a non-suspension post?
Thanks for your recommendation, Mike. Unfortunately the Trek 7300FX has an
aluminum frame.... darn!
Original Message:
Luigi de Guzman
<g.ci...@oit.umass.edu> wrote:
>Hello Mike. Thanks for you input. You indicate surprise that I prefer the
>ride of a steel frame. You're spot-on that steel has more flex to it than
>aluminum.
I think what Mr. J was getting at was the propensity of the frame to
flex under heavy pedaling loads. I'm a heavy guy, and when I used to
ride my old (1980s) Raleigh, I could feel the bike bend a bit as I
stood up to pedal.....
>And that's why the aluminum-ride is less "forgiving"... every
>road bump and dip gets amplified. I'm using a Brooks B-17 saddle on my
>Bridgestone cromo and have no complaints about comfort. A long trip for me
>would be 10-12 miles, with some moderate hill climbing.... (actually, there
>is one "killer-hill" that I attempt to climb). The aluminum bike has heavy
>suspension forks that are necessary to cushion the stiffness of the aluminum
>ride. I don't find suspension forks necessary w/ a cromo. Of course, I
>would prefer titanium but the price is prohibiting in my case. I do like
>suspension in the seatpost, however. Do you (or anyone) know if there is a
>significant weight difference between that and a non-suspension post?
There is. You're adding the complication of all the necessary springs
and damping to what should otherwise be a fairly simple part.
Why not go for something totally different? 700C wheels, drop
handlebars, no suspension. You know, a road bike. Or, to be more
precise, a tourer. If you must have CrMo steel, the Jamis Aurora will
fit the bill nicely. I picked mine up for US$450, on clearance; they
usually go for anywhere between US$500-600. If the price is right, go
with it.
Otherwise, go with a road bike, but insist on real wheels--NOT
stupidlite ones.
Be sure the bicycle fits, don't be bullied into riding with the bars
too low & saddle too high, remember that the drops allow for
*multiple* hand positions with easy access to the brakes--and then go
for a ride.
-Luigi
>
>Thanks for your recommendation, Mike. Unfortunately the Trek 7300FX has an
>aluminum frame.... darn!
Why not ride the bike, and then decide? In the end, it's the bike
that you're riding, not someone else's opinion.
>
>
David Kerber
@cox.net says...
> On Wed, 23 Jun 2004 08:21:03 -0400, "Glenn Civello"
> <g.ci...@oit.umass.edu> wrote:
>
> >Hello Mike. Thanks for you input. You indicate surprise that I prefer the
> >ride of a steel frame. You're spot-on that steel has more flex to it than
> >aluminum.
>
> I think what Mr. J was getting at was the propensity of the frame to
> flex under heavy pedaling loads. I'm a heavy guy, and when I used to
> ride my old (1980s) Raleigh, I could feel the bike bend a bit as I
> stood up to pedal.....
My old Schwinn LeTour from 1979 did the same, but my new (last year)
Fuji Touring doesn't flex at all under hard pedaling.
...
> Why not go for something totally different? 700C wheels, drop
> handlebars, no suspension. You know, a road bike. Or, to be more
> precise, a tourer. If you must have CrMo steel, the Jamis Aurora will
> fit the bill nicely. I picked mine up for US$450, on clearance; they
> usually go for anywhere between US$500-600. If the price is right, go
> with it.
Very good suggestion.
> Otherwise, go with a road bike, but insist on real wheels--NOT
> stupidlite ones.
>
> Be sure the bicycle fits, don't be bullied into riding with the bars
> too low & saddle too high, remember that the drops allow for
It's even ok to put the bars *above* the saddle level if that's what
feels best!
> *multiple* hand positions with easy access to the brakes--and then go
> for a ride.
--
Remove the ns_ from if replying by e-mail (but keep posts in the
newsgroups if possible).
Reid Priedhorsky
>
> Or, to be more precise, a tourer. If you must have CrMo steel, the Jamis
> Aurora will fit the bill nicely. I picked mine up for US$450, on
> clearance; they usually go for anywhere between US$500-600. If the
> price is right, go with it.
Mine was $730 a few weeks ago. Still a good price and a fabulous bike,
though, IMO.
Reid
Glenn Civello
significant weight to a bike. Shortly after I bought my Specialized
Expedition the seatpost wiggled from side to side. Because it was still
under warrantee, my LBS installed a non-suspension post in its place. This
made my ride even more stiff... so I wanted it replaced with a suspension
post. They ordered it, so by next week I should be riding w/ seat-post
suspension. Again, my Bridgestone doesn't have suspension in either the
forks or the seatpost; I suppose that's why its lighter in spite of having a
steel frame.
Gosh, that Jamis Aurora sure looks sweet... but with the price and the low
handle bars I wouldn't be able to manage. I slipped a disc in '86 and since
then reaching and leaning over is uncomfortable. Before that I had no
problem riding a roadbike...
=======
Original message:
<snip> >> Do you (or anyone) know if there is a significant weight
Glenn Civello
reasons I explained, in my last post, to Luigi. However, you guys got me to
thinking about Jamis' other bikes... I see that there Coda Sport and Elite
use cromo frames and when the '05's come out I may be able to get it at a
good price. Anybody have any experience with either of these bikes?
I'd have to swap-out the handle bars w/ something that has a comfortable
rise to them.
"Reid Priedhorsky" <re...@reidster.net> wrote in message
news:pan.2004.06.23...@reidster.net...
Luigi de Guzman
<g.ci...@oit.umass.edu> wrote:
>Thank you Luigi. It's good to find out that suspension seatposts add
>significant weight to a bike. Shortly after I bought my Specialized
>Expedition the seatpost wiggled from side to side. Because it was still
>under warrantee, my LBS installed a non-suspension post in its place. This
>made my ride even more stiff... so I wanted it replaced with a suspension
>post. They ordered it, so by next week I should be riding w/ seat-post
>suspension. Again, my Bridgestone doesn't have suspension in either the
>forks or the seatpost; I suppose that's why its lighter in spite of having a
>steel frame.
>
>Gosh, that Jamis Aurora sure looks sweet... but with the price and the low
>handle bars I wouldn't be able to manage. I slipped a disc in '86 and since
>then reaching and leaning over is uncomfortable. Before that I had no
>problem riding a roadbike...
My handlebars are at about the same level as my saddle. I don't lean
over much, if at all, unless I'm riding deep in the drops.
The marketing types insist that anything with dropped bars must be
shown set up for Miguel Indurain, with super-low handlebars. This is
crap; handlebar height is something that you determine for yourself.
After all, it isn't Big Mig riding your bike, but you.
A decent shop should be able to accomodate your desire to have the
handlebars at around the same level as your saddle.
As far as price: I admit that I was stupendously lucky on mine, but
bargains can be had on similar bikes: REI Novara Randonee, Fuji
Touring, for instance.
=-Luigi
Glenn Civello
>> >Gosh, that Jamis Aurora sure looks sweet... but with the price and the
low handle bars I wouldn't be able to manage. I slipped a disc in '86 and
since
then reaching and leaning over is uncomfortable. Before that I had no
problem riding a roadbike... >>>
>> My handlebars are at about the same level as my saddle. I don't lean
over much, if at all, unless I'm riding deep in the drops. >>
> The marketing types insist that anything with dropped bars must be
shown set up for Miguel Indurain, with super-low handlebars. This is
crap; handlebar height is something that you determine for yourself.
After all, it isn't Big Mig riding your bike, but you.>
I hear you Luigi but w/o trying out the bike I wouldn't take the chance.
The one bike shop that has the Jamis line won't order it unless I buy it.
He's got a Coda Elite in stock that looks good to me, but its the frame is
too small. He's also carry's the Giant line but all are aluminum frames.
Other bike shops in the area carry Trek, Kona, and Fuji, and Bianche (sp?)
I'm pretty sure a Coda Elite or Coda Sport would work out well, if I were
able to change the flat handlebars over to high-rise adjustable stem. I
don't know if that's possible though (I forgot to ask the bike salesman)
Also there a used bicycle shop in the area that has a pretty good
selection... unfortunately, most of the frames are 19 inches or less. I
need a 21"... 22" would be better. I visit that shop regularly, figuring
that if I can something with a good frame I could upgrade the rest of the
parts. No luck so far.... I've been looking since April. Thanks for all
your help!