Glue for polyethylene plastic?
Gary S.
hauling.
There are parts of this where having an effective glue for
polyethylene would simplify the project.
Polyethylene is very slick, and many glues specifically mention they
will not work on it, but I know there are quite a few new glues out
there.
It would have to tolerate flexing, and of course, cold temps.
Riveting or other through fasteners would not work well. Plastic
welding is an option, but I assume equipment intensive.
Any ideas?
Happy trails,
Gary (net.yogi.bear)
------------------------------------------------
at the 51st percentile of ursine intelligence
Gary D. Schwartz, Needham, MA, USA
Please reply to: garyDOTschwartzATpoboxDOTcom
Lou W
"Gary S." <Idontwantspam@net> wrote in message
news:psha30hm931909gjp...@4ax.com...
> I want to try a project using some polyethylene sleds, for gear
> hauling.
>
> There are parts of this where having an effective glue for
> polyethylene would simplify the project.
>
> Polyethylene is very slick, and many glues specifically mention they
> will not work on it, but I know there are quite a few new glues out
> there.
>
> It would have to tolerate flexing, and of course, cold temps.
>
> Riveting or other through fasteners would not work well. Plastic
> welding is an option, but I assume equipment intensive.
>
> Any ideas?
>
> Happy trails,
> Gary (net.yogi.bear)
Gary,
Try some 3m 5200 . It is an adhesive caulk and in marine applications
that I have used it on its grip is pretty tenacious. It usually damages the
substrate when it does fail. It is also flexible. I've never used it on
polyethylene applications although I would imagine a good abrading of the
surface will be necessary prior to application. 5200 is available at all
marine supply outfits and also I have seen it in hardware stores and such.
It can be purchased in standard size caulk cartridges and in smaller tubes.
HTH
Lou
net.burro
Simon
You could rough-up the surface with sandpaper or a wire brush. Riveting
might work with larger than usual holes and anchors with washer + rubber
grommet (against the PE) on each side (for flexing to prevent tearing
the PE).
HTH,
Simon
Wandering Hiker
http://www.cityplastics.com.au/gluing.html
"It should be noted that some plastics such as polypropylene and
polyethylene are designed to be resistant to chemicals. These plastics that
are not dissolved by chemicals cannot be glued and to join them they need to
be hot-air welded."
"Gary S." <Idontwantspam@net> wrote in message
news:psha30hm931909gjp...@4ax.com...
Jim S
repairing motocross bike plastics.
Strider
This stuff MIGHT work:
http://www.deeteeenterprises.com/NS.JB.Weld.Adhesives.php
I haven't found much that it won't bond.
Strider
Chips
voraciously to most anything. But don't be surprised if it doesn't stick to
polyethylene.
I'm guessing that you are looking to apply it to the underside of a sled
rail or something. You might try countersunk screws, bolts, or rivets along
with the 5200.
You might also try teflon instead of polyethylene.
GC
"Lou W" <sail...@home.com> wrote in message
news:X2cZb.2776$4K3.1663@fed1read06...
blackcat
Saw this recommended in rec.boats.paddle: 3M DP8005 structural plastic
adhesive. Specifically for plastics such as polyethelene, "no surface
prep required". It's expensive stuff, and is packaged in a duo-pack
cartridge that requires an applicator gun, mixing nozzles, and a 10:1
plunger for the gun. I _was_ going to get some of this to attach
various fittings to a polyethelene kayak, but for a small 35ml tube
and all the xtras (applicator, nozzles, etc) it was going to be over
$70. Ouch.
McMaster Carr (http://www.mcmaster.com/) has it. Search "3M", and then
choose "3M Duo-Pack adhesives" from the returned list of hits.
Bruce W.1
Start testing, use different glues. Do lots of testing.
Pete Hickey
blackcat <blackcatsu...@hotmail.com> wrote:
>Gary S. <Idontwantspam@net> wrote in message news:<psha30hm931909gjp...@4ax.com>...
>> I want to try a project using some polyethylene sleds, for gear
>> hauling.
>and all the xtras (applicator, nozzles, etc) it was going to be over
>$70. Ouch.
My guess is that you're trying to do this inexepnsively, and you
don'T want the glue costing 5 tmies the cost of the rest of the
project, right?
--
"It's a sad day for american capitalism when a man
can't fly a midget on a kite over Central Park."
J. Moran
Gary S.
(Pete Hickey) wrote:
>In article <b2aef23.04022...@posting.google.com>,
>blackcat <blackcatsu...@hotmail.com> wrote:
>>Gary S. <Idontwantspam@net> wrote in message news:<psha30hm931909gjp...@4ax.com>...
>>> I want to try a project using some polyethylene sleds, for gear
>>> hauling.
>
>>and all the xtras (applicator, nozzles, etc) it was going to be over
>>$70. Ouch.
>My guess is that you're trying to do this inexepnsively, and you
>don'T want the glue costing 5 tmies the cost of the rest of the
>project, right?
Yeah, I got the two sleds for $3.50 each.
I ruled out thermal welding for the same reason, although I plan to
try P-Tex candles.
Wandering Hiker
"Gary S." <Idontwantspam@net> wrote in message
Why don't you explain to the group what you're trying to do? It makes a big
difference. BTW, P-tex material will not handle much stress.
Gary S.
<wandere...@removespammer.net> wrote:
>Why don't you explain to the group what you're trying to do? It makes a big
>difference. BTW, P-tex material will not handle much stress.
>
Basically, I want to attach two round plastic kiddie sleds and make a
sled the size of my backpack. I will have sort of frame attaching the
upper edge, but also want to bond the lower part which touches the
snow. Since it slides on the surface, I cannot use through fasteners.
Hopefully the frame will hold the majority of the stress, and this
glue would just keep the gap where they overlap from opening.
Do you mean all P-tex, or specifically the repair candles?
danc
> On Mon, 23 Feb 2004 05:39:45 -0500, "Wandering Hiker"
> <wandere...@removespammer.net> wrote:
> Basically, I want to attach two round plastic kiddie sleds and make a
> sled the size of my backpack. I will have sort of frame attaching the
> upper edge, but also want to bond the lower part which touches the
> snow. Since it slides on the surface, I cannot use through fasteners.
>
> Hopefully the frame will hold the majority of the stress, and this
> glue would just keep the gap where they overlap from opening.
>
> Gary (net.yogi.bear)
> ------------------------------------------------
do the job. Use at least three layers of cloth, with each layer
covering about two inches less than the previous layer. This gives the
joint some flexibility and helps keep the patch from just popping off.
So 7", 5", and 3" glass cloth widths would be centered over the join.
You can patch both inside and out. Before patching, clean with alcohol
or acetone and roughen a bit with sandpaper. Wet with resin, apply the
first cloth layer; repeat. Then cover the patch with Saran wrap to get
a good cure. When cured, it can be sanded and waxed as needed.
I've used more expensive epoxies and some inexpensive polyester resin
types (Wal Mart) on an old plastic canoe. Both have held up well over
the years.
If you really want to keep the two pieces together, you could drill or
melt small holes and stich with nylon tread or small cord before
covering with the patch. Pop-rivits might do the job.
Mississippi Dan
puppe...@hotmail.com
[snip]
> Polyethylene is very slick, and many glues specifically mention they
> will not work on it, but I know there are quite a few new glues out
> there.
Some place on the net there is a web site with a title along
the lines "how to stick anything to anything." It's kind of a
catalog of glue manufacturers. Everything form paper, to plastic,
to wood, to steel, to fabric. Sorry, I don't recall the details
any better than that. But with a little work you should be able
to google it up fairly quickly. Something like "the glue page"
or something.
I recall that they had several hundred products listed, with
proper prep technique, what materials they were best suited for,
what conditions they were ok for, and even how to unstick many
of them. There was even a search engine for asking "I want to
stick X to Y, what do I use?"
IIRC, I was first pointed at this when I asked a question on
a news group dedicated to crafts involving metalwork when I
wanted to know how to get superglue stuck objects apart.
Socks
Mike Romain
Interesting link, thanks!
My $500.00 gas tank is plastic and I have one broken one already sitting
in need of repair.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Ed Huesers
> > Saw this recommended in rec.boats.paddle: 3M DP8005 structural plastic
> > adhesive. Specifically for plastics such as polyethelene, "no surface
> > prep required". It's expensive stuff, and is packaged in a duo-pack
> > cartridge that requires an applicator gun, mixing nozzles, and a 10:1
> > plunger for the gun. I _was_ going to get some of this to attach
> > various fittings to a polyethelene kayak, but for a small 35ml tube
> > and all the xtras (applicator, nozzles, etc) it was going to be over
> > $70. Ouch.
> >
> > McMaster Carr (http://www.mcmaster.com/) has it. Search "3M", and then
> > choose "3M Duo-Pack adhesives" from the returned list of hits.
Mike Romain wrote:
> Interesting link, thanks!
> My $500.00 gas tank is plastic and I have one broken one already sitting
> in need of repair.
I'd think the $500 would warrant trying it. Let us know how it works
if you do try it as I've never seen anything that works on polypropylene
and have needed it at times.
BTW, finally sold the 76 CJ5 to a friend at $2000.
Ed Huesers
http://www.grandshelters.com
pas
> blackcat wrote:
>>
>> Gary S. <Idontwantspam@net> wrote in message
>> news:<psha30hm931909gjp...@4ax.com>...
>>> I want to try a project using some polyethylene sleds, for gear
>>> hauling.
>>>
>>> There are parts of this where having an effective glue for
>>> polyethylene would simplify the project.
>>>
Mike Romain
Cool, he got a nice Jeep if I remember right.
I will post back on the repair in the future, even used, my tank is a
fast $200.00 like I paid for the one I have now.
There are just 2 tubes that need to be mixed 10:1. I wouldn't waste
money on the applicator for the one job, my eye should be just fine for
that mix.
We are still going to get one of your igloo makers for our winter off
road runs. I was damaged as a passenger in a car accident last year, so
our trips were on hold for a while. Still going to be slow for a
while. :-(
Heading off to a deep Canadian Bush run Sat. for 10 days with a bunch of
other Jeepers, I'm still not anywhere near 100%, but I am going to have
a good time anyway!