We live about 40 miles west of Chicago. Any suggestions for
where we could buy some spare parts, either within driving distances
or a mail order shop that has /quick/ service?
The generator is the only thing that comes to my mind for the
leaking but I though I had recently replaced that. (I haven't gotten
it out yet for the summer, so I haven't had a chance to look at it and
refresh my memory). If it isn't the generator does anybody have any
other suggestions? My recollection is that it mostly leaked just after
being turned off but even sitting in the back of the van it leaks a little,
enough to smell.
The other possibility is to buy a new stove. The problem is that
this is a 1960's model and my wife does not want to deal with the
dinky compact stoves she can find around here (DeKalb). While we
were travelling earlier this summer she saw a dual fuel model which
she thought was bigger. Can anyone confirm that it is a bit bigger?
And again any recommendations for stores in our area that would carry it?
Robert Morphis
mor...@Physics.niu.edu
JNH
--
fts
<mor...@niuhep.physics.niu.edu> wrote in message
news:7mkv8v$8g4$1...@husk.cso.niu.edu...
After 25 years of faithful service my old Coleman 2-burner (probably just
like yours) finally gave up the ghost. I had replaced the generator and
leather washer a couple of times through the years, and was prepared to do
it again; but, the seam around the gas tank rusted and it started leaking
fuel. I was afraid to use it any longer so I purchased a brand new stove to
replace the old one. I was disappointed to find that the newer model wasn't
half the stove the old one was, so I ended up taking the new tank/generator
and using it with the old stove (body.)
After a few years, I got tired of seeing that brand new stove body sitting
on a shelf in the garage, so I purchased an "American Camper" propane
adapter at K-mart ($20-$30) to use with the new stove (body.) I tried it
out one weekend, and, I'm now sold on the convenience of propane. I
packed-up the new stove body along with the new tank/generator and sold them
in a yard sale - - I'm now using my trusty old stove with that newfangled
propane adapter thingy and just couldn't be more pleased with it. I'd
recommend switching to propane unless you have a strong preference for using
gasoline.
If you're looking for repair parts for your old stove, check your sporting
goods stores. Look to the mom & pop stores - - the big chain retailers
would rather sell you a new stove for $90 than a $20 replacement part. You
can make your own leather washer to replace the worn-out one. You can also
buy a new "insert" to replace the whole pump if needed. I once purchased a
valve/generator assembly but I haven't seen one in years. I know you can
find just the generator (without the valve) most anywhere. If your fuel
tank is leaking around the seam like mine was, you need to replace the whole
thing.
Or, you can try emailing Coleman (http://www.coleman.com). . . and tell 'em
Mikey sent ya!
mor...@niuhep.physics.niu.edu wrote:
>Hello,
> My family car camps and uses an old Coleman two burner white gas
>stove for our cooking. It has two problems, one: the leather gasket in
>the pump needs constant reoiling and two: it leaks fuel.
> We live about 40 miles west of Chicago. Any suggestions for
How would I check this?
>2. Pump check valve
If I don't turn the valve it holds rock hard against attempts to pump,
so I don't think this is the problem this time.
>3.Worn filler cap gasket, if the cap has a screw in the center on the
>outside, check the gasket on the seal, could be missing.
What is the gasket made of?
>4. Pin hole in the tank.
hmmmm.
>My guess is # 1. All of the parts are available from Coleman and can be
>ordered over the phone, 1-800-835-3276 gets you the Consumer Service people.
>You might ask about having you stove over hauled, very moderate fee, you pay
>the shipping.
>Your wife is right, The 2 burner stoves both Dual Fuel and Coleman Fuel
>models come in 2 sizes.
Thanks for the input.
Robert
My thanks to all who have made suggestions, the above has been suggested
by a few posters so...
Anybody care to discuss the pros and cons of propane vs. white gas?
and esp. the converter kits for the old coleman stoves?
Well, if you're car camping, propane is preferable to white gas in terms of
absolute convenience. Besides, you can use the same tank to run a lantern as
well as your stove.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
If you need to get in touch, just remove what doesn't belong in my address
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
>>Anybody care to discuss the pros and cons of propane vs. white gas?
>>and esp. the converter kits for the old coleman stoves?
>>
>
>Well, if you're car camping, propane is preferable to white gas in terms of
>absolute convenience.
Why?
(please answer first and then read/ignore the rest of my post :-)
>Besides, you can use the same tank to run a lantern as
>well as your stove.
Fie on you! And all who profane the wilderness (or state parks) with
Propane lanterns!
Uh, sorry about that, reflex action.
Mostly, as long as there are some woods or a couple of campsites I don't
really care, but last summer I was trying to walk my little boy to sleep
and doing that was problematic with all the lanterns set at max output
(Can they be set at lower settings?).
Aesthetically I don't understand leaving them on while you are sitting
around the campfire, but such is life.
Peace,
Robert
--Rod
dan stephens, outdoorsman
eagle scout class of 79
On 15 Jul 1999 15:38:07 GMT, mor...@niuhep.physics.niu.edu wrote:
>Hello,
> My family car camps and uses an old Coleman two burner white gas
>stove for our cooking. It has two problems, one: the leather gasket in
>the pump needs constant reoiling and two: it leaks fuel.
>
Step 1:turn valve to "on."
Step 2:light & use until done.
Pretty simple. No pumping, spilling, need to depressurize, etc. . . .
>(please answer first and then read/ignore the rest of my post :-)
>
I can't ignore it--because I totally agree with you! I only referred to the
use of lanterns from the theoretical standpoint (I use neither lanterns nor
developed campground). It was just another benefit, however dubious, of using
propane while car camping. :-)
Cheers.
mor...@niuhep.physics.niu.edu wrote in article
<7mo68l$g5b$3...@husk.cso.niu.edu>...
> Mostly, as long as there are some woods or a couple of campsites I don't
> really care, but last summer I was trying to walk my little boy to sleep
> and doing that was problematic with all the lanterns set at max output
> (Can they be set at lower settings?).
What does that have to do with propane, tho. The gas lanterns are at least
as bright, I think brighter, until the pressure goes down (then someone has
to get up, stagger over to the lantern, pump it up, rehang it [assuming
they didn't break it], and stagger back to their drinking).
Neither kind is particularly adjustable.
We are Americans, tho, and convenience is a right!
FYI, I use propane when car camping because the small additional cost can
usually be made up for with shopping sales. White gas never goes on sale,
but propane cylinders are often used as loss leaders at places I already
shop around here! The actual cost is high, but I do more backpacking than
car camping!
Yes, I know I'm just rationalizing...
> Peace,
> Robert
>
Gasoline is lighter (per hour of operation) than propane with the
container considered. I think it was about half the weight. It was
also cheaper. If I recall, about 1/4 the cost.
If the appliances operate properly, which is usually the case,
gasoline is no problem.
Although I paid more for dual fuel, I use white gas, rather than
unleaded because it is less toxic and has little odor. I wanted dual
fuel to be able to use unleaded if white gas was not obtainable.
Might never happen, but for $8 an appliance, I thought it was worth
it.
Ken
(to reply via email
remove "zz" from address)
>> Mostly, as long as there are some woods or a couple of campsites I don't
>> really care, but last summer I was trying to walk my little boy to sleep
>> and doing that was problematic with all the lanterns set at max output
>What does that have to do with propane, tho.
Exclusively? Nothing, just venting.
>We are Americans, tho, and convenience is a right!
<heh> Ain't that the truth.
Robert
Thanks,
Amy
In article <#poCHx#z#GA.281@cpmsnbbsa03>,
Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/
Share what you know. Learn what you don't.
Also, when you backpack, what do you think is a safe way to carry the
fuel?
Amy
> Gasoline is lighter (per hour of operation) than propane with the
> container considered. I think it was about half the weight. It was
> also cheaper. If I recall, about 1/4 the cost.
>
> If the appliances operate properly, which is usually the case,
> gasoline is no problem.
>
> Although I paid more for dual fuel, I use white gas, rather than
> unleaded because it is less toxic and has little odor. I wanted dual
> fuel to be able to use unleaded if white gas was not obtainable.
> Might never happen, but for $8 an appliance, I thought it was worth
> it.
>
> Ken
> (to reply via email
> remove "zz" from address)
>
>This is great info, Dan! And I'm glad I'm not the only one who has some
>concern for saving the environment from unnecessary landfill. I
>recently bought a white gas stove because I thought propane was was too
>expensive and wasteful, but now that you mention the refillable propane
>tanks, I am reconsidering. WHere do you get those? And where do you
>refill them?
>
>Thanks,
>
>Amy
>
>
The refillable propane tanks come in 5 lb, 11 lb, and 20 lb (the size
in a backyard gas grill). Camping and RV stores sell them, but you
will also find them at many hardware stores. Maybe not in a city
proper, but in most suburbs and rural areas, there are places that
will fill them for you. Look in the Yellow pages for propane or gas
grill supplies. Some convenience stores have a set up where you swap
your empty tank for their full tank, which is faster.
The cost is a small fraction of what the same propane costs in
disposable cylinders, so you can be environmental and frugal at the
same time. The cost per BTU is lower than every processed fuel except
natural gas piped to your home.
Happy trails,
Gary
------------------------------------------------
Beware of enterprises which require new clothes. HDT
Gary D. Schwartz, Needham, MA, USA
Please reply to: garyDOTschwartzATpoboxDOTcom
>in a yard sale - - I'm now using my trusty old stove with that newfangled
>propane adapter thingy and just couldn't be more pleased with it. I'd
>recommend switching to propane unless you have a strong preference for using
>gasoline.
The problem with propane is the 1# cylinders don't work in the cold. The
Boy scout troop I help lead camps out regularly when temps fall below 32F.
The propane would barely come out of the cylinders. We switched to white
gas and haven't looked back. White gas works at any temperature.
Brian
On Wed, 21 Jul 1999 12:05:09 GMT, abc__...@hotmail.com (adam bailey)
wrote:
>On Wed, 21 Jul 1999 02:26:23 GMT in <news:rec.backcountry>
>bel...@foshay.citilink.com () wrote:
>
>=>"Mike Whittington" <mwhitt...@home.com> writes:
>=>
>=>>in a yard sale - - I'm now using my trusty old stove with that newfangled
>=>>propane adapter thingy and just couldn't be more pleased with it. I'd
>=>>recommend switching to propane unless you have a strong preference for using
>=>>gasoline.
>=>
>=>The problem with propane is the 1# cylinders don't work in the cold. The
>=>Boy scout troop I help lead camps out regularly when temps fall below 32F.
>=>
>=>The propane would barely come out of the cylinders. We switched to white
>=>gas and haven't looked back. White gas works at any temperature.
>
>_Propane_ works well even when it's freezing, _butane_ does not. I have
>used butane/propane mix (available from Coleman, Primus and others) with
>backpacking stoves (mostly made by Primus) in temperatures well below 32
>degrees F for years with out any problems.
I'd rather be camping in my
1980 Jayco Cardinal 8
On a windless day with full sun to help warm the tank I can understand
propane working down to some degree below 32F. Other than that, white gas is
my choice of fuels.
jr
You ever tried to get a good efficient flame from a 3/4 empty propane
cylinder in really ( I mean really ) cold weather?
I get it, the ScoutMaster was hallucinating, right? (NOT)
And I must have been too, right? (NOT)
And yes, I have tried propane at "well below"-15F. Thats why I switched to
Naptha and a little preheating paste. Cause it worked for me.
I would offer to suggest you define *your* "well below" before you judge
another.
Peace Y
jr
Which is +5 to +12 Fahrenheit. -15F is -26C. That's a big difference.
I've found butane/propane mixes work okay down to -5C/+22 in basic
stoves. Using Coleman's Xtreme stoves I'm happy using butane/propane
down to -15C/+5F. However when I've used butane/propane at -20 to -25C
(-5 to -14F) I've had to warm the cartridges with my hands to get more
than a feeble flame. And maintaining a flame adequate to boil water was
very difficult. I wouldn't do it again by choice. I've also used white
gas and kerosene at such low temperatures and it works well.
This was all at low altitudes (below 7,000 feet). At high altitudes,
especially above 20,000 feet, butane/propane is meant to work much
better in cold temperatures due to the lower air pressure. I have no
experience of this myself but Himalayan mountaineers have used butane
and butane/propane stoves for years with success.
I now usually use butane/propane when I don't expect temperatures below
-10C/+12F, white gas/kerosene when it could be colder.
- -
Chris Townsend.
Mountain & Wilderness Writing & Photography.
http://www.auchnarrow.demon.co.uk
http://www.redstart.net/Chris_Townsend/index.html
Your post appears to result in a positive outcome.
Thank-you
dan stephens, outdoorsman
eagle class of 79
sorry
jr
>Propane=HISSSSSSSSSSSSSS
>I hate that hissing sound. Give me the white gas. Just bought a new
>white gas latern. We camp app 10 nights a month in the summer and only
>used a gallon of the stuff last summer and we have a white gas stove.
You won't have much of a hiss when you use a regulated stove. They
sound just like your home stove and are just as convenient.
The following hydorcarbons commonly used as stove fuels have the following
boiling points. Theoretically, the stove would cease to function at this
temp, but in real life the stove's usefulness is reduced before the
temperature is reached (partially because as the gas leaves the canister, it
is forced through a small opening which lowers the temp even more):
Propane - (-42.1C) / (-43.8F)
Isobutane - (-11.7C ) / 10.94F
Butane - (-0.5C) / 31.1F
Stove performance can be increased by warming the canister in cold temps.
You can put the cansister in water, which will increase the temp to 32F, or
use special chemical heat packs used to warm canisters.
Hope this helped a little. Have a good day.
Chris
Jerry Richards <fir...@nospamroadrunner.nf.net> wrote in message
news:7n516b$at7$1...@nova.thezone.net...
On Sun, 25 Jul 1999 19:44:47 GMT, expl...@voyager.org (John Jenkins)
wrote:
>On 15 Jul 1999 15:38:07 GMT, mor...@niuhep.physics.niu.edu wrote:
>
>>Hello,
>> My family car camps and uses an old Coleman two burner white gas
>>stove for our cooking. It has two problems, one: the leather gasket in
>>the pump needs constant reoiling and two: it leaks fuel.
>
>How about a Coleman two or three burner propane stove?
patrickatcyberhighwaydotnet
admin@loopback $LOGIN@localhost $LOGNAME@localhost $USER@localhost
$USER@$HOST -h1024@localhost ro...@mailloop.com
Happy camping,
Rocky Clark
--
"I shall allow no man to belittle my soul by making me hate him."
- Booker T. Washington -
Come check out my web site at
http://unnet.com/homepages/rclark/index.htm
Lots of great links and tips on camping, hunting and fishing in the
state of Michigan. Let me know what you think about it, all comments are
welcome!
ICQ# 388305 - handle, Fastpitch
Jeff Cohen
Mike
> OK, even to me this seems like a silly question but...
> Is there some sort of secret to pouring white gas/coleman fuel out of
> the gallon size rectangular cans without splashing and splurting all
> over the place?
> --
>
> Jeff Cohen
Use a funnel and pour toward the side of the can opposite the spout.
Coleman used to sell a nice metal funnel with a felt filter; sure wish I
could find mine.
Costco has a 6 pack of 16 oz propane $10.
http://members.aol.com/vlabella/bob.html
http://members.aol.com/vlabella/72hour_list.htm
>OK, even to me this seems like a silly question but...
>Is there some sort of secret to pouring white gas/coleman fuel out of
>the gallon size rectangular cans without splashing and splurting all
>over the place?
>--
>
> Jeff Cohen
Yes there is, Buy a funnel, not being smart that is just what I
learned
Bill
I'd rather be camping in my
1980 Jayco Cardinal 8
http://communities.msn.com/chat/chatroom.asp?rm=%23Camping1&rhx=&cat=SP
Please join me in #camping1 chat. I am the camping_fool
Glenn Stauffer wrote:
> Jeff Cohen wrote:
>
> > OK, even to me this seems like a silly question but...
> > Is there some sort of secret to pouring white gas/coleman fuel out of
> > the gallon size rectangular cans without splashing and splurting all
> > over the place?
> > --
> >
> > Jeff Cohen
>
> Use a funnel and pour toward the side of the can opposite the spout.
> Coleman used to sell a nice metal funnel with a felt filter; sure wish I
> could find mine.
Those metal funnels can still be found if you really want one. Of course
eBay.com
:::::::::户�*碻长炒`*:户�::::::::
Rocky Mountain Rawhide
:::::::::户�*碻长炒`*:户�::::::::
"Never drive faster than your guardian angel can fly!"
Happy camping,
Rocky
One poster mentioned the idea of pouring when the spout is at the upper
end of the top of the can and it works fair; it lets air into the can
and so smooths the flow. But it's still kinda awkward. Yet another
obvious idea is to transfer the gas to some other container like a Sig
bottle, then to make it even easier yet Sig makes a special screw top
that you just loosen and it has a little spout on it that works nice.
Actually, perhaps the best solution, though one feels a bit taken by
using it because I think Coleman designs these cans so as to sell it, is
a nifty screw spout Coleman sells itself that screws onto those gallon
cans. It's a spring-loaded thing that doesn't spill, and when you insert
the spout into your stove tank or whatever you push down and it lets the
gas flow out. Works pretty well, though I prefer the Sigg solution.
At any rate, there's some ideas.
tgb
On 4 Aug 1999 13:50:20 GMT, Jeff Cohen <JCo...@CCS.carleton.ca> wrote:
>OK, even to me this seems like a silly question but...
>Is there some sort of secret to pouring white gas/coleman fuel out of
>the gallon size rectangular cans without splashing and splurting all
>over the place?
>--
>
> Jeff Cohen
Please respond.
jr