SVEA 123 Pump Option ?
Redmond Young
I have a SVEA 123, and I'm thinking about buying the converter
kit that makes you have to pressurize the tank by pumping it.
The benefit, according to the saleswoman, is that you no longer
have to prime the stove.
How does it work for you ? No more priming ?
Thanks,
Red
murrtrc
Steve LaSala
In article <howlett-18...@biol-9.biology.utah.edu>,
Bruce <how...@biology.utah.edu> wrote:
>In article <51nulm$o...@engnews2.Eng.Sun.COM>, re...@topspeed.eng.sun.com
>(Redmond Young) wrote:
>
>> > I have a SVEA 123, and I'm thinking about buying the converter
>> kit that makes you have to pressurize the tank by pumping it.
>> How does it work for you ? No more priming ?
No, you still have to get the generator tube hot to vaporize the
fuel. The pump only serves to get fuel from the tank to the priming cup.
This is the same system an MSR stove uses.
>I've used one of these for years, its worth having. Pump up the stove, open
>the valve to let some fuel into the cup on top, and light. The pump greatly
>speeds starting the stove, since you only have to heat up the generator and
>not the fuel reservoir - and it is more efficient, since you need less fuel
>to warm up the stove.
IMHO, the priming method given in the instructions is ridiculous:
"warm the tank in your hands" indeed! But I've never even tried warming
the tank by any other means. I just open the cap, insert an eyedropper,
and squirt a dropperful of fuel in the priming cup. Works fine every
time, even in winter, and forces you to check the fuel level in the tank,
too. Just remember to put the cap back on before lighting. Used to be
outdoor stores had plastic droppers for this purpose. They don't break
like the glass ones.
Supposedly, using alcohol or firepaste instead of gasoline to
prime eliminates the soot. Haven't tried it.
>The other problem is that the gaskets tend to dry
>out quickly, but you can't buy just the gaskets.
Lubricate with mineral oil. MSR also sells designated "pump-cup-oil".
Steve LaSala
Seattle, WA
Frank Reid
Denatured alcohol makes great sootless primer. Rubbing alcohol won't work;
it contains too much water. The alcohol flame has little color, so you may
not be able to see it in bright sunlight. Sterno (tm) solidified alcohol
also works for primer. The extra weight and hassle might not be worthwhile
on a long backpack, except that Sterno is a backup heat source in case of
stove failure. I got my Svea 123 in 1966 (REI $7.95) and it has never
failed or even needed maintenance except tip-cleaning. (It's the old model
without the internal tip-cleaner.)
--
Frank re...@indiana.edu
Scott Henderson
Redmond Young wrote:
>
> I have a SVEA 123, and I'm thinking about buying the converter
> kit that makes you have to pressurize the tank by pumping it.
I used one for several years. Eventually the cap leaked. I went back
to the standard cap and eye dropper method. If I were you, I would pass
on the coverter. By the way, replacement gaskets for the standard cap
are available at REI.
--
Scott Henderson
Los Angeles, California, USA
sco...@ucla.edu
Bruce
> > I have a SVEA 123, and I'm thinking about buying the converter
> kit that makes you have to pressurize the tank by pumping it.
> <cut>
> How does it work for you ? No more priming ?
I've used one of these for years, its worth having. Pump up the stove, open
the valve to let some fuel into the cup on top, and light. The pump greatly
speeds starting the stove, since you only have to heat up the generator and
not the fuel reservoir - and it is more efficient, since you need less fuel
to warm up the stove.
ALWAYS carry the old fuel cap with you, I have had problems with sand
getting into the valve on the fuel cap for the pump, so that the stove
wouldn't stay pressurized. If just the pump quits, you can light the stove
in the traditional way. The other problem is that the gaskets tend to dry
out quickly, but you can't buy just the gaskets.
Bruce.
how...@biology.utah.edu
Jason R
I first had trouble with the new fuel cap. Flames would shoot out of the
little pressuring hole on the cap and I was afraid the tank might blow
up. A friend showed me to unscrew the post on the underside of the cap
and remove the spring. It took some experimenting of stretching and
compressing the spring to get the right tension, but now it works fine.
--
Jason Rumohr
lover of nature, music and life
"Wherever you go, there you are," --- Throreau
Robert M. Branch
On 18 Sep 1996, Redmond Young wrote:
>
> I have a SVEA 123, and I'm thinking about buying the converter
> kit that makes you have to pressurize the tank by pumping it.
> The benefit, according to the saleswoman, is that you no longer
> have to prime the stove.
>
> How does it work for you ? No more priming ?
>
>
> Thanks,
> Red
>
>
>
Red: I have an old ('70's vintage) Svea 123 and have used the mini-pump
ever since they came out. The saleslady is WRONG!!!!!. It simplifies
priming, but does not eliminate it. The stove (and all like it)
vaporizes gasoline by heat in the generator. That's the tube below the
burner. Gasoline is wicked by capilary action and tank pressure into the
tube, heated, boiled into vapor, and then burned in the burner head. The
pump increases the tank pressure just enough to allow you to squirt a
little bit of gas through the jet where it dribbles down the generator
and fills the priming cup. It makes this chore cleaner and neater, but
does not eliminate it. Otherwise you use a priming paste or a dropper to
get a bit of gas from the tank or fuel bottle to do the job.
For the 123, Optimus 8R, and 111 it is a neat and (I feel) essential
gadget.
See ya! Robert Branch
Scott Henderson
Redmond Young wrote:
>
> I have a SVEA 123, and I'm thinking about buying the converter
> kit that makes you have to pressurize the tank by pumping it.
I still have the pump, but not the fuel cap. I don't know what they
cost now, but if anyone wants mine I will send it to them for the price
of postage or the trade of a few High Sierra artificial flies (e.g.,
black ant, caddis, mosquito, midge, leech).
--
Scott Henderson
5327 Lemona Ave.
Van Nuys, CA 91411
mailto:Sco...@UCLA.edu
H Arden Tohill
In article <51piqg$7...@nntp5.u.washington.edu>, las...@u.washington.edu says...
>>
>>> > I have a SVEA 123, and I'm thinking about buying the converter
>>> kit that makes you have to pressurize the tank by pumping it.
<<< snippage >>>
> IMHO, the priming method given in the instructions is ridiculous:
>"warm the tank in your hands" indeed! But I've never even tried warming
>the tank by any other means. I just open the cap, insert an eyedropper,
>and squirt a dropperful of fuel in the priming cup. Works fine every
>time, even in winter, and forces you to check the fuel level in the tank,
>too. Just remember to put the cap back on before lighting. Used to be
>outdoor stores had plastic droppers for this purpose. They don't break
>like the glass ones.
>
> Supposedly, using alcohol or firepaste instead of gasoline to
>prime eliminates the soot. Haven't tried it.
I've tried both Mautz 'Fire Ribbon' (I think that's the name) and the thinner
gel from Optimus. Both worked well with little or no soot. Nothing wrong
with the above method either.
Arden
---
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Arden Tohill : "In theory, there is no difference
NASA Lewis Research Center : between theory and practice,
Cleveland, OH : but in practice, there is".
H.Arden...@lerc.nasa.gov :
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Jeff Wilson
I used to use the same pump on an optimus 80. It was more trouble
than it was worth. Still had to preheat (prime) the feed tube. Never
could get it to pump up enouch to vaporize the fuel. My main trouble
was getting the cap valve to work. It would either stick closed or
open. I now use a little bottle of ethanol alcohol to prime the
stove. It burns cooler than Colman fuel but there in _no_ sooty mess!
My 1 oz bottle last for a week.
|Jeff Wilson jrwi...@gv.net
|
|...... Seek harmony and balance in the mountains, find harmony and balance within.....
Frank Wentz
>
> I have a SVEA 123, and I'm thinking about buying the converter
> kit that makes you have to pressurize the tank by pumping it.
i'ver used a little pump to get my svea started for years. it came with a
cap that has a male type connector sticking out of it, the pump pops on
(o-ring on pump seals it) two or three pumps, remove, and you are in
business. don't go out without it. i have been using the same svea since
1969. it failed once, i bought a new one, got home and fixed the old one.
The original model will out perform the newer model. newer model now lives
on basement shelve.
SVEAS FOREVER!!! LOVE THAT SOUND!!!
deacon
Peter Klein
Yes, I've been using the pump option with mine since the late 70's.
To my chagrin, however, I started to get flareups (REAL excitement!)
out of the pump compatible cap this past summer. First I thought the gasket
was too compressed and I wasn't tightening it enough after refueling.
Turned out it was leaking fuel thru the cap.
So after nearly 20 years I just decided to spring for a new pump/cap
kit for an expensive $17.50.
Yes, Svea's are great. Never let me down. Love the old Sigg
pan/windscreen nest kit. Just wish the damn stove simmered!
Pete
Donald R. Newcomb
In article <8106106...@oui.com>, Frank Wentz <Frank...@oui.com> wrote:
>>
>> I have a SVEA 123, and I'm thinking about buying the converter
>> kit that makes you have to pressurize the tank by pumping it.
>
>i'ver used a little pump to get my svea started for years.
OTOH, I've had one for years and only used it once or twice. It seems, IMHO,
to be a waste of space and weight. What does it do? It just provides a little
presusre to push a little fuel out the nozzle to pre-heat the stem. After
that, it still runs on vapor-pressure, just as before. I much prefer a film
can full of priming paste. If you want a clean start, take a small bottle of
fuel alcohol to prime the stove.
--
Donald R. Newcomb * University of Southern Mississippi
dnew...@whale.st.usm.edu * "The God who gave us life gave us liberty
dnew...@falcon.st.usm.edu * at the same time." T. Jefferson (1774)
Kory
In article <52k48f$k...@whale.st.usm.edu>, dnew...@whale.st.usm.eduo says...
I disagree. I've had one I've used with an Optimus Hunter for years. The
weight is made-up by the fact that you don't need to carry that "starting
gel" stuff; or... that fact that when starting, fuel isn't wasted by trying
to "pour" it into the fuel cup.
alan
> In article <52k48f$k...@whale.st.usm.edu>, dnew...@whale.st.usm.eduo says...
> >
> >In article <8106106...@oui.com>, Frank Wentz <Frank...@oui.com>
> wrote:
> >>>
> >>> I have a SVEA 123, and I'm thinking about buying the converter
> >>> kit that makes you have to pressurize the tank by pumping it.
> >>
> >>i'ver used a little pump to get my svea started for years.
> >
> >OTOH, I've had one for years and only used it once or twice. It seems, IMHO,
The problem with the Svea is you have to take off the wind screen to use
the pump and I usually knock off the burner plate in the process. I just
use a cigarette lighter on the bottom of the stove to give it enough heat
to push out some fuel into the bowl then light that.
Alan
Allen Freeman
dnew...@whale.st.usm.edu (Donald R. Newcomb) wrote:
>
>In article <8106106...@oui.com>, Frank Wentz <Frank...@oui.com>
wrote:
>>>
>>> I have a SVEA 123, and I'm thinking about buying the converter
>>> kit that makes you have to pressurize the tank by pumping it.
>>
>>i'ver used a little pump to get my svea started for years.
>
>OTOH, I've had one for years and only used it once or twice. It seems,
IMHO,
little
>presusre to push a little fuel out the nozzle to pre-heat the stem.
After
>that, it still runs on vapor-pressure, just as before. I much prefer a
film
>can full of priming paste. If you want a clean start, take a small
bottle of
>fuel alcohol to prime the stove.
I use the pump for my Svea all the time. I've been using the same stove
since 1977. I find the pump the easiest way to get that little bit of
gas needed to prime the stove. If you've developed your technique using
priming paste or something else, great. However, I also use my stove for
winter camping. In this case, I believe the bit of added pressure in the
tank helps greatly in maintaining a decent flame. Sometimes it's so cold
out that the stove doesn't seem to be able to maintain pressure solely
from the heat.
Maybe it's just my imagination, but maybe it isn't.
FWIW
-
ALLEN FREEMAN UEB...@prodigy.com
david mann
Allen Freeman (UEB...@prodigy.com) wrote:
: dnew...@whale.st.usm.edu (Donald R. Newcomb) wrote:
: >
: I use the pump for my Svea all the time. I've been using the same stove
: gas needed to prime the stove. If you've developed your technique using
: priming paste or something else, great. However, I also use my stove for
: winter camping. In this case, I believe the bit of added pressure in the
: tank helps greatly in maintaining a decent flame. Sometimes it's so cold
: out that the stove doesn't seem to be able to maintain pressure solely
: from the heat.
An insulated pad under the stove solves a lot of it.
A reflective foil windscreen makes a big difference.
Steal one from an unwitting MSR owner when they aren't
looking. Priming pastes works fine and easier to control
in a vestibule, IMO.
Dave Mann | "It is impossible, or not easy, to do
| noble acts without the proper equipment."
dam...@lynx.neu.edu | Aristotle, <<Politics>>, 1323a-b, trans Jowett
Redmond Young
OK, I was the one who originally posted this question:
>>> I have a SVEA 123, and I'm thinking about buying the converter
>>> kit that makes you have to pressurize the tank by pumping it.
I've been using priming paste, and it's been working fine.
But the lady at Western Mountaineering told me that with the
Pump, I would NO longer have to PRIME the stove .. like a
Coleman Peak. Just pump it up, and light the stove! Great! I
thought. I didn't buy it right then and there because they
ran out of the nipple/caps for the pump to mount to.
Is she hallucinating ? One person sent me email saying he
doesn't have to prime the stove since buying the pump. But
many others told me that you STILL have to prime it.
Sooo, my only reason to spend $17 for the pump/cap was to save
the hassle of priming. And, I don't want to pressurize the
tank and use its white gas for priming fluid ... that tank is
small enough already!
Red
david mann
Redmond Young (re...@topspeed.eng.sun.com) wrote:
: doesn't have to prime the stove since buying the pump. But
: many others told me that you STILL have to prime it.
I think she was mistaken. But I'm not dead sure.
I've used Optimus box stoves in winter conditions and
on the box stoves, you can actually pump the pump while
the stove is burning; something you cannot do with the
123 (provided you are using the standard windscreen/pot
holder). And, the pump helps a bit in the real cold, but
not that much, IMO. In all these years, I've never seen
the box stove lit without preheating. I really doubt
you could light a 123 without preheatin by just relying
on the pump. Weeeellll, maybe it would light, but not
with a controled, blue flame.
IMO, priming with gas is a drag; especially while wearing
liner gloves. Neat effects when the gas soaked gloves light
in the dark (yes, I've seen it happen) but... it's also
a good way to burn a hole thru the vestibule. The flame
with paste is so much easier to deal with.
I've not been in real, killer cold, only down to -10f or
so, but the 123 has worked fine with an insulating pad
under it and with a foil windscreen around it. I thi k
the pump makes sense at altitude...