Instrument panel labeling

[dtarm...@gmail.com]

I'm looking for ideas on how to make professional looking placards/labels for a instrument panel rebuild I'm doing. I need to make tiny labels for fuses, and switches and I hate, hate, hate the look of the continuous strip label maker "sticker" stuck to the panel. It looks tacky, but they never seem to stay stuck. Know what I mean?
I think a stencil might be too small, has any one ever used a pressure transfer and clear top coat? What else have you tried?

Signed,
Working till spring

[resi...@sbcglobal.net]

Not sure what type of "continuous strip label maker sticker" you had so badly - is it the old Dymo style that produces a sort of raised letter on a thick plastic strip? Agree that those look terrible.

I used P-Touch laminated tapes on my panel and they look very professional and haven't had any problems over the last 3 years in the south Texas summer heat. I used their Extra-Strength cartridge (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004ZMVNLO/) and since my panel is black I used clear tape with white lettering. With the P-Touch you can print any sized label, many fonts, etc. I labeled fuses, switches, N-number and all look absolutely professional. Highly recommended.

Robert

[Tom BravoMike]

For a really professionally looking labels I would suggest a 'sign and engraving' business like this found at random on Google:

https://www.myengravedsign.com/Engraved-Signs/Control-Panel-Plates.aspx

[John DeRosa OHM Ω http://aviation.derosaweb.net]

On Thursday, January 9, 2020 at 8:26:27 PM UTC-6, dtarm...@gmail.com wrote:

I have used Aircraft Engravers many times (https://www.engravers.net/). Not too expensive, quick, and well made.

Here are some examples for a Cessna 150 with an nearly unreadable panel I upgraded (PDF of what I sent them, what they sent me as a proof, and what they produced).
http://derosaweb.net/aviation/images/placards

[John DeRosa OHM Ω http://aviation.derosaweb.net]

Also, if you do decide to use the "Thermal transfer printing" label makers commonly found in office supply stores, definitely use the Dymo brand. Dymo has stepped up their game from the olden days of raised lettering, their adhesive is better than P-Touch's, and they even make printable HEAT SHRINK!! Same price point as P-Touch.

https://www.dymo.com/en-US/label-makers-and-label-printers/labelmanager-160-label-maker

Also, a hint on getting these labels to stick better - clip each corner of the label at a 45. Its those 90 degree corners that seem to lift up over time. My $0.02.

[krasw]

I have printed labels with a good laser printer using Avery industrial strength A4 printable label sheets. Normal office labels do not last more than year or two. Label does not stick to Nextel paint very well, they need to be attached with two sided tesa tape used for mylar seals. Done like this, they outlast the glider.

[Tango Whisky]

Le vendredi 10 janvier 2020 09:27:23 UTC+1, krasw a écrit :
> I have printed labels with a good laser printer using Avery industrial strength A4 printable label sheets. Normal office labels do not last more than year or two. Label does not stick to Nextel paint very well, they need to be attached with two sided tesa tape used for mylar seals. Done like this, they outlast the glider.

I print them with a laser printer on standard paper, and the plastify the paper (the thing where you put the paper between to layers of clear plastic through a heating machine). Double sided tape to attach - looks professional and lasts forever.

[Cookie]

On Thursday, January 9, 2020 at 9:26:27 PM UTC-5, dtarm...@gmail.com wrote:



https://decalprofx.com/aircraft-panels.html


Check out the website above. Many photos of instrument panels done with this method. It transfers only the letters....no backing, no clear tape nothing...just letters

I worked on the restoration of a military Cessna 337...and did all the instrument panels, electrical panels, control labels, special labeling etc. Really looks nice....somewhat complicated and labor intensive....but 100% professional results.


Cookie

[Cookie]

https://decalprofx.com/aircraft-panel-by-richard-funk-1.html


example of glider panel with this process

[jfitch]

I used thin black anodized aluminum which is sold for making placards and such (McMaster-Carr has it). I then engraved the lettering and cut out the outline and holes required on the CNC milling machine. These are typically held on by the switch or device they are labeling. I suppose not everyone has a CNC machine at home, but any labeling service (locally usually available at a sports trophy shop) can do this. It does not require a smooth surface, is as durable as the glider, and should needs change is easily changed without having to remove adhesive or paint.

Here are a couple of snaps of what it looks like:

https://i.imgur.com/2v472VV.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/ZlCKdRr.jpg

[John DeRosa OHM Ω http://aviation.derosaweb.net]

One word of warning about fonts to use. Don't make the font too fancy - you need the label to easily READABLE during flight. Arial is great. Brush Script is definitely NOT (especially so in all caps).

Case in point are some of the contest IDs I have seen on the vertical stab that are cool but truly UNREADABLE. What's the point?

My $0.02.

John DeRosa OHM Ω

[Eric Greenwell]

John DeRosa OHM Ω http://aviation.derosaweb.net wrote on 1/10/2020 8:59 AM:
> One word of warning about fonts to use. Don't make the font too fancy - you need the label to easily READABLE during flight. Arial is great. Brush Script is definitely NOT (especially so in all caps).
>
> Case in point are some of the contest IDs I have seen on the vertical stab that are cool but truly UNREADABLE. What's the point?

Just look at your Flarm: it tells you the contest ID way before you can read it
off the glider, and really, that's too late to be useful.

--
Eric Greenwell - Washington State, USA (change ".netto" to ".us" to email me)
- "A Guide to Self-Launching Sailplane Operation"
https://sites.google.com/site/motorgliders/publications/download-the-guide-1

[Bob Kuykendall]

https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/61659249

[Roy B.]

Case in point are some of the contest IDs I have seen on the vertical stab that are cool but truly UNREADABLE. What's the point?

Amen John! As in, "Blue Smear - on your right side"
ROY

[George Haeh]

I've used a local sign shop for vinyl transfer lettering for contest ID and registrations. Very simple to apply – lots of options.

Instrument panel labels are of course a much smaller font. Check with the sign shop.

[Dave Nadler]

On Thursday, January 9, 2020 at 9:26:27 PM UTC-5, dtarm...@gmail.com wrote:

> I'm looking for ideas on how to make professional looking placards/labels...

I've used https://www.frontpanelexpress.com - they do a great job.
They can do enclosures, for example lettering and cut-outs (DSUB, LED) on
the CAN-repeater I designed for Antares:

http://www.nadler.com/Antares/WCAN3_installed_closeup.JPG

Great for larger parts like a fuse sub-panel as well as smaller stuff.
Hope that helps,
Best Regards, Dave

[dtarm...@gmail.com]

These are some great ideas. I like the durability of the anodized/engraved plates but was hoping to find something like the transfer that Cookie suggested from Decalprofx. If you read this, how durable have the decals been? Did you apply a clear coat over them? I think I could be happy with either of these results.

Doug

[Dan Marotta]

That's great, but I never got good grades in penmanship...

On 1/10/2020 10:45 AM, Bob Kuykendall wrote:
> https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/61659249

--
Dan, 5J

[John DeRosa OHM Ω http://aviation.derosaweb.net]

On Friday, January 10, 2020 at 12:00:14 PM UTC-6, George Haeh wrote:
> I've used a local sign shop for vinyl transfer lettering for contest ID and registrations. Very simple to apply – lots of options.
>
> Instrument panel labels are of course a much smaller font. Check with the sign shop.

Vinyl lettering is great for large lettering (1/2" minimum and above, *MAYBE* 1/4"). But the very small lettering you might use on a panel is almost impossible getting the letters to release from the transfer tape and onto the panel without loosing a few in the process. Been there, done that.

[Cookie]

Yes, I sprayed a super light coat of clear "fixative". Plane has yet to fly, so not sure of how it holds up.....but many aircraft use this system.


Cookie

[krasw]

There is a great study by Nasa of label and checklist font readability. It recommends a good font which I used. Google finds it easily.

Problem with engraved or "plasticied" labels is that there are a lot of fuses and switches in panel that requires very small labels. These can be done only with printable sheets. This way you get exactly same look and feel of factory new glider.

[Dan Daly]

On Saturday, January 11, 2020 at 12:55:03 AM UTC-5, krasw wrote:
> There is a great study by Nasa of label and checklist font readability. It recommends a good font which I used. Google finds it easily.
>
> Problem with engraved or "plasticied" labels is that there are a lot of fuses and switches in panel that requires very small labels. These can be done only with printable sheets. This way you get exactly same look and feel of factory new glider.

I believe it is https://ti.arc.nasa.gov/m/profile/adegani/Flight-Deck_Documentation.pdf - "ON THE TYPOGRAPHY OF
FLIGHT-DECK DOCUMENTATION"

Interesting read, thanks for pointing it out.

[Matt Herron Jr.]

These are all great ideas, but if you want the most professional, readable, permanent, and flexible solution, use laser engraving of special plastic laminate sold by Johnson Plastics and others. The laser can cut a profile for the label(s), cut holes for connectors to mount through, and label the connectors. The material has a self adhesive backing so you can peal and stick to the panel.

I use LaserMax Rowmark White/Black 2 ply 1/16" thick with excellent results. You can see a picture of my panel here: https://www.dropbox.com/s/q6355wzj96dms04/panel-label.jpg?dl=0 A single placard takes care of all the items on the right side of the panel. I plan to do the required placards as well using this method.

Ideally a single label will handle multiple fuses/breakers, USB connectors, audio jacks, etc., and the profile will match your panel. You need to generate the artwork in something like Adobe Illustrator, or the like, and there are many services that will cut/engrave for you. For example, Rex at WSC did it for me. As suggested, choose a readable font like Helvetica bold for clarity. You can print to paper to check alignment, etc.

Have fun, and be prepared to be impressed.

Matt Herron

[doug...@gmail.com]

I second Aircraft Engravers. Did a great job on the labels for my Libelle. Been on my panel almost 5 years and not one problem with any of them coming off. Email me off list if you want to see my order page.

Doug

[Cookie]

Eh....to each his own...not my cup of tea...I think directly lettered looks way more professional. In production of panels (for all kinds of stuff, like test equipment etc)...they use silk screen...printed directly onto the surface

http://www.aircraftspecialty.com/instpanels.html

Here are a couple examples of silk screened lettering...most professional IMHO. These guys also do laser etch, right into the panel..I don't care fo rhte etch look...but he silk screen is 100% top notch!


Cookie

[Gary Wayland]

On Thursday, January 9, 2020 at 9:26:27 PM UTC-5, dtarm...@gmail.com wrote:

I'm lucky enough to have my own engraver.

It was green, now grey, this year!

https://imgur.com/9nkz9yH

[dtarm...@gmail.com]

Nice work! I've never seen bank angle reference marks like that on the panel before.

DT

[Gary Wayland]

On Friday, January 17, 2020 at 11:41:58 PM UTC-5, dtarm...@gmail.com wrote:
> Nice work! I've never seen bank angle reference marks like that on the panel before.
>
> DT

Thanks for the nice comment...

I tend to overbank. A 60-degree bank angle feels like 45 degrees to me, so this keeps me in check...

Notice no screws on the instruments. More engraving (cutting) behind the scenes.

Gary

[Dan Marotta]

Spiffy!

--
Dan, 5J

[jfitch]

On a smooth surface silkscreening can look OK. On a textured surface typical of many gliders, it does not look good, if it is readable at all. So, "it depends"....