Lycoming Engine Specs
Rowland Glanville
I am unable to obtain engine specs from our UK dealer.
I anyone knows the following details please reply to me or give me the
phone/fax number for the Lycoming in the US.
0-320
0-360
IO-360
IO-320
0-235
power and torque @ revs with a weight of engine
Rowland Glanville
RD Rick
In <01bbdb9f$bb9667e0$6bc448c2@rg> "Rowland Glanville"
<ro...@enterprise.net> writes:
>I anyone knows the following details please reply to me or give me the
>phone/fax number for the Lycoming in the US.
>
>0-320
>0-360
>IO-360
>IO-320
>0-235
>power and torque @ revs with a weight of engine
>Rowland Glanville
I know you didn't ask, but here's a couple of Franklin numbers for
comparision:
6 cyl opposed aircooled; SAE prop flange
model HP @ RPM weight (probly not incl. starter & gen)
6A4-150 150 2600 284 lb
6A4-165 165 2800 288 lb
Do you want power curves? I have that for the 150, and could
extrapolate for the 165.
RD
Berkoot
In article <01bbdb9f$bb9667e0$6bc448c2@rg>, "Rowland Glanville"
<ro...@enterprise.net> wrote:
> I am unable to obtain engine specs from our UK dealer.
>
> I anyone knows the following details please reply to me or give me the
> phone/fax number for the Lycoming in the US.
>
> 0-320
> 0-360
> IO-360
> IO-320
> 0-235
> power and torque @ revs with a weight of engine
>
> Rowland Glanville
You can find Lycoming at: http://www.lycoming.textron.com/
Gregory Travis
"Rowland Glanville" <ro...@enterprise.net> writes:
>I am unable to obtain engine specs from our UK dealer.
>I anyone knows the following details please reply to me or give me the
>phone/fax number for the Lycoming in the US.
>0-320
About 260-270 LBS.
Three different power classes available. Models are available which
produce:
140 HP @ 2450 RPM
150 HP @ 2700 RPM
160 HP @ 2700 RPM
>0-360
About 290-300 LBS.
Models are available which produce:
168 HP @ 2700 RPM
180 HP @ 2700 RPM
180 HP @ 2900 RPM
>IO-360
About 290-300 LBS.
Models are available which produce:
177 HP @ 2700 RPM
180 HP @ 2700 RPM
180 HP @ 2900 RPM
190 HP @ 3200 RPM
190 HP @ 3050 RPM
200 HP @ 2700 RPM
205 HP @ 2900 RPM
>IO-320
About 260-270 LBS
Models are available which produce:
150 HP @ 2700 RPM
160 HP @ 2700 RPM
>0-235
About 220 LBS.
Models are available which produce:
115 HP @ 2800 RPM
116 HP @ 2800 RPM
118 HP @ 2800 RPM
125 HP @ 2800 RPM
Models are available which produce:
>power and torque @ revs with a weight of engine
You can compute the torque yourself with the following formula:
Torque = HP x 5252 / RPM
greg
p.s. Most of this info is available at:
http://gtravis.ucs.indiana.edu/Engines/Lycoming/Lyc_Cert_list.html
--
scott rider
Greg,
The Lyc. O-235 A1A (?) is rated at 108 HP. These are stock
in the Little Grummans.
These can be tweaked up to 115 (as you pointed out) by red-line
and prop changes. The Sparrowhawk conversion brings
them up to 125, but I don't know what that conversion entails.
Also, the O-235 has a 2400 TBO ! One of the highest.
Anyone know of a turbo kit for them? Manual waste gate OK, doesn't
have to be a fully automatic "turbo-normalized" add-on.
Scott Rider
Own Opinions.
N-6296L BD-1 w/ 115hp O-235
Patrick Flowers
Greg,
Are these weights with accessories or not? Thanks for the good info.
Patrick
Gregory Travis
pat...@ibm.net (Patrick Flowers) writes:
>Greg,
>Are these weights with accessories or not? Thanks for the good info.
>Patrick
Patrick,
The weights are Lycoming's "dry weights." Lycoming defines the
dry weight as the weight of the engine plus carburetor/fuel injector,
magnetos, spark plugs, ignition harness, intercylinder baffles, starter,
and alternator or generator. All this for normally aspirated engines
only. Turbocharged engines include the above plus the turbo and mounting
hardware, exhaust, turbo controls, and oil lines.
The weights do not include the weight of the propeller, propeller spacer,
propeller mounting bolts, or engine cooling baffles.
greg
mast...@aol.com
One must be careful here because there are many different versions of each
engine. I have a O-235-L2C which is the 118hp version. Other versions
have different compression ratios (therefore differing power) running from
115hp (-C1, which can run on 80 octain aviation or auto fuel) to 125hp
(-F, G, H, and K; not commonly found and may have been taken off the
market, also has reduced TBO). The best source is the source:
Textron Lycoming
652 Oliver St
Williamsport, PA 17701 USA
(717)323-6181
Ask for publication SSP-393 (or current edition) titled "Certificated
Aircraft Engines."
Ed Masterson
O-235 VariEze Builder
(Just hoisted the engine for the first time this week, now if I could only
find the 'trick' to getting those Dynafocal bolts in all at once.)
Chris Stokes
Any opinions out there on putting up a perfectly good Lycoming IO-360 for
the winter with desiccant plugs, some fancy kind of pickle juice, and
capped exhaust stacks?
Or should I just go out in the dead of winter and start her up every
couple of weeks?
Any experience with pickling out there?
Tom Betka
On Sun, 01 Dec 1996 00:20:15 -0500, Chris Stokes <cst...@tiac.net>
wrote:
Chris,
You DO NOT want to start it up every couple of weeks...unless you
could run it--at normal operating temps--for a prolonged period, ie;
more than several minutes. It's been a while since A&P school and
inorganic chemistry in college, but here goes...
There are several chemicals, formed as by-products of combustion, that
form acids when exposed to water. If you were to start the engine you
would be generating (inevitably) some of these compounds--notably
sulfates & nitrates (ever hear of acid rain?). Then, the increase in
temp you'd generate by running the engine would result in condensation
inside the engine--warm air holds more moisture than cold. This water
would react and form acids with the by-products of combustion...
Bottom line--your engine would be sitting around with acid in
it--refreshed each time you briefly ran it. These acids are quite
detrimental to the engine. Moral of the story--you need to bring the
engine up to operating temps to negate these effects.
Obviously, these types of compounds are formed every time we run an
engine. However, (theorectically) by running the engine regularly
(ie; frequently) for "prolonged" periods of time--eg; a normal
flight--we minimize the effects of these harmful chemicals. I'm sure
everyone agrees that engines last much longer when they are flown
regularly, vs. say every six months or less frequently.
Again, I do not profess to be an expert in the chemistry of
cumbustion, but I do remember my instructors in A&P school many years
ago. These "old timers" who were trained in the WWII era, always
preached to us about the benefits of protecting on "idle" engine. I
have never had the occasion to "pickle" an engine, however. I HAVE had
the occasion to use dessicant plugs--several times...
I have found that if you only need to store the engine for a short
time (eg; a winter), coating the cylinders with a oil preservative
film & using some dessicant plugs works quite well. The film of oil
serves to inhibit the oxidation which would take place if the surface
were bare. Also, the dessicant plugs absorb any moisture in the
cylinders--however they must be "refreshed" every so often as the
dessicant turns color, an indication of it's increased moisture
content. You can simply replace the dessicant, or spread it on a
cookie sheet and bake it to drive out the moisture. Works either way.
One disclaimer here... Obviously it will be difficult--if not
impossible--to coat with oil the steel components below the pistons.
The one problem I have seen is that camshafts are notorious for
rusting. Oil from running the engine runs off these surfaces
relatively quickly, leaving them unprotected. Aslo, the interlobar
spaces are non-machined, making them very rough and a great site for
rust to start. From here, it seems inevitable that the lobes will be
affected as well. For this reason, I have found it useful (read IMO)
to remove a cylinder or two and "paint" the cam & crankshafts with a
mixture of engine oil (SAE 100 works great) and STP oil treatment.
This seems to make the mixture thicker and "stickier." Then I put the
cylinders back on, and simply monitor the dessicant plug. Also, you
may want to periodically rotate the engine a FEW times--simply to
"refresh" the oil coating in the cylinders. This is a personal
preference thing, which I have had good luck with.
I don't know if anyone else has anything to add, but these are some
things I was taught years ago. They've always worked for me, but I'm
sure others have other tricks they've used. Sorry for the long-winded
answer.... Good luck.
Tom Betka
Jim Root
Chris Stokes wrote:
>
> Any opinions out there on putting up a perfectly good Lycoming IO-360 for
> the winter with desiccant plugs, some fancy kind of pickle juice, and
> capped exhaust stacks?
> Or should I just go out in the dead of winter and start her up every
> couple of weeks?
> Any experience with pickling out there?
>
> cst...@tiac.net
If its in an airplane why not just fly it every couple of weeks! I took
many of my student hours in the winter in Montana. Some of the nicest
air you'll find!
:{) Jim
ifly
Chris Stokes <cst...@tiac.net> wrote:
>Any opinions out there on putting up a perfectly good Lycoming IO-360 for
>the winter with desiccant plugs, some fancy kind of pickle juice, and
>capped exhaust stacks?
> Or should I just go out in the dead of winter and start her up every
>couple of weeks?
> Any experience with pickling out there?
>
it`s Esso) this is a milspec oil approved for aviation use. I drain the
engine oil and refill with the prtective stuff, then fly the airplane for
a good half an hour at least. I then mist the cylinders turning the
engine by hand about fifty revs.Then I mist the cylinders again put in
the dissecant plugs and leave the prop with a sign on it "Don`t move
prop, engine preserved". It gets very damp in the winter where I live,
and I do this if I think the engine won`t fly for moe than a couple of
months. You can run the engine on the preservative oil (Providing the
manufacturer and your licensing authority agree!)
I understand that these oils have better adhesion properties and will in
fact climb up components by capillary action. Anyone know if it`s true?
Jeff Morris
mg...@aol.com
In article <32A115...@tiac.net>, Chris Stokes <cst...@tiac.net>
writes:
>Any opinions out there on putting up a perfectly good Lycoming IO-360 for
>the winter with desiccant plugs, some fancy kind of pickle juice, and
>capped exhaust stacks?
> Or should I just go out in the dead of winter and start her up every
>couple of weeks?
> Any experience with pickling out there?
>
>
With mine it goes something like this: Honey I just have to go out and
fly today. I can't let the engine set without putting a couple of hours
on it. and while I am flying I might just as well go down to see my
buddies at their field.
Mark
Clarence Snyder
Chris Stokes <cst...@tiac.net> wrote:
>Any opinions out there on putting up a perfectly good Lycoming IO-360 for
>the winter with desiccant plugs, some fancy kind of pickle juice, and
>capped exhaust stacks?
> Or should I just go out in the dead of winter and start her up every
>couple of weeks?
> Any experience with pickling out there?
>
From my experience with automotive, industrial, and ag engines, adding
something like STP to a heavy grade of engine oil, changed just before
storage, helps a lot. A few drops of oil of wintergreen won't hurt
either.(Marvel Mystery Oil apparently has wintergreen oil in it -
might work) Cranking the engine over enough to build oil pressure with
fuel and ignition shut off every month or so will help redistribute
the oil, but if the desicant is maintained, there will be no rust
problems. Many engines which have sat without preparation, in a
protected site, show no signs of rust after two years of sitting. The
oil "soaks" into the porous surface of non machined parts, and an oil
film is maintained between the moving parts.
DEFINITELY cover the engine intake, exhaust, and crankcase vents to
keep out vermin, dirt, snow, etc.
Clare Snyder, Class "A" Licenced Auto Mechanic
Recycled as a Computer Solution Provider
Waterloo, Ontario, Canada
Larry Weygandt
Chris,
Our powerplant instructor here a Skyline says you would be better off going
out and starting it every couple of weeks vice pickling. Even with the exaust
stacks plugged, you will still have one valve open which would allow moisture
to enter the chamber. Also, your rings may stick. When you start it, make
sure that you get it good and hot in order for all of the moisture to
dissapate.
Good luck !
Larry
tomdal...@vnet.ibm.com
I question the old standard of running the engine long enough to " allow all of the moisture to
dissapate" . I feel like it is much more important to be sure the oil or what ever solution is in
the sump to be clean, and then start the engine and run it for only a few seconds. Fully warming
up the engine insures that the hot oil will quickly end up back in the sump. After a flight, or trip
if I know the engine will sit for some period of time, I always go back to it after it is fully cool,
and then start and shut down quickly. That leaves cold(thick) oil on cold metal surfaces.
Tom Dalrymple
Tom Betka
On 02 Dec 1996 18:36:32 GMT, Larry_W...@acd.org (Larry Weygandt)
wrote:
>Chris,
>Our powerplant instructor here a Skyline says you would be better off going
>out and starting it every couple of weeks vice pickling. Even with the exaust
>stacks plugged, you will still have one valve open which would allow moisture
>to enter the chamber. Also, your rings may stick. When you start it, make
>sure that you get it good and hot in order for all of the moisture to
>dissapate.
>Good luck !
>Larry
Larry,
I see a problem here... If you don't FLY the airplane, you'll never
get it up to operating temps SAFELY. Sure you'll get it up to temp,
but it'll take awhile, and all that time without adequate cooling
airflow over the cylinders. When I went to A&P school they spent an
aweful lot of time talking about inadequate cooling, cylinder "hot
spots," detonation & pre-ignition. It's the same reason we don't run
an engine for prolonged periods of time (eg; at inspection) without
the cowling on the airframe. Detonation really damages engines...be
careful.
I still think Jim Root had the best idea--if it's on the aircraft,
just go fly it!!! But, I assume from your original post that it's on a
stand, not an aircraft...
Tom Betka
Larry Weygandt
Tom,
I agree with you. From what I understood from his question, I assumed it was
on a flyable airframe.
TNX, Larry
Tom Betka
>On 2 Dec 1996 21:46:18 GMT, tomdal...@vnet.ibm.com wrote:
>I question the old standard of running the engine long enough to " allow all of the moisture to
>dissapate" . I feel like it is much more important to be sure the oil or what ever solution is in
>the sump to be clean, and then start the engine and run it for only a few seconds. Fully warming
>up the engine insures that the hot oil will quickly end up back in the sump. After a flight, or trip
>if I know the engine will sit for some period of time, I always go back to it after it is fully cool,
>and then start and shut down quickly. That leaves cold(thick) oil on cold metal surfaces.
>
>Tom Dalrymple
>
Tom,
Good point about warm oil vs. cold oil... But don't forget that metal
is porous--and expands when hot. Some oil gets absorbed into the pores
of the metal when the engine is warm/hot, and (hopefully) stays there
until the next time the engine runs. This helps to prevent surface
oxidation. You are quite correct stating that a surface film is
important to the longevity of the engine... and that a cold film will
"last" longer than a warm film of oil. But probably only for another
couple of hours or so...what happens then?
Interesting aside here... Have you ever taken apart a metal wing which
has (years ago) been treated with Paralketone (sp?)? That stuff was
sprayed on the inside of the wing skins of a Maule aircraft I once
worked on. I had to replace the entire top skin, so I removed it and
it looked like a GIANT fly-strip on the bottom skin. Over the years
the stuff had all dripped down to the bottom skin, which now had stuck
to every piece of grass, mud, dirt & bug that came along. Took two
gallons of lacquer thinner to clean out...! My point is that if that
sticky (understatement!) stuff drips off a surface due to gravity--so
does any oil you'd ever want to run in an engine.
As for your technique of cold-starting an engine briefly, I have never
had a similar experience, so I don't feel qualified to comment. I
would add however, that after your engine has run for awhile it has
evaporated any moisture in it. And I don't think that by starting it
briefly you would warm it up enough to generate any significant amount
of additional moisture--ergo, maybe the "cold vs. warm film" thing is
a mute point...
Tom Betka.
tomdal...@vnet.ibm.com
In <582off$14...@news.doit.wisc.edu>, mab...@globaldialog.com (Tom Betka) writes:
>>On 2 Dec 1996 21:46:18 GMT, tomdal...@vnet.ibm.com wrote:
>
m,
>
>Good point about warm oil vs. cold oil... But don't forget that metal
>is porous--and expands when hot. Some oil gets absorbed into the pores
>of the metal when the engine is warm/hot, and (hopefully) stays there
>until the next time the engine runs. This helps to prevent surface
>oxidation. You are quite correct stating that a surface film is
>important to the longevity of the engine... and that a cold film will
>"last" longer than a warm film of oil. But probably only for another
>couple of hours or so...what happens then?
for the past several years at the request of my engine builder. Your post has given me some
concerns as to the relationship of old wives tales to facts. I called my brother who is a
chemical engineer and posed the question to him. His response was similiar to yours, except
he felt that one week after the restart the cold started engine would probably still have
better protection but after two or so weeks the the surface film would be no different
between the engine that was restarted when cold and the one that was left hot.
So.....If it looks like rain for the first week.....................
>has (years ago) been treated with Paralketone (sp?)? That stuff was
>sprayed on the inside of the wing skins of a Maule aircraft I once
>worked on. I had to replace the entire top skin, so I removed it and
>it looked like a GIANT fly-strip on the bottom skin. Over the years
>the stuff had all dripped down to the bottom skin, which now had stuck
>to every piece of grass, mud, dirt & bug that came along. Took two
>gallons of lacquer thinner to clean out...! My point is that if that
>sticky (understatement!) stuff drips off a surface due to gravity--so
>does any oil you'd ever want to run in an engine.
I haven't seen what you are describing with the preventative oil coating, but
I suspect I have seen the effects of two gallons of Lacquer thinner on hands.
With Lacquer paint being outlawed due to the high solvent evaporation, I wonder
if lacquer thinner will be next.
Thanks for the post....That is the great value of these discussions. I learned something.
tomdal...@vnet.ibm.com
>
>Good point about warm oil vs. cold oil... But don't forget that metal
>is porous--and expands when hot. Some oil gets absorbed into the pores
>of the metal when the engine is warm/hot, and (hopefully) stays there
>until the next time the engine runs. This helps to prevent surface
>oxidation. You are quite correct stating that a surface film is
>important to the longevity of the engine... and that a cold film will
>"last" longer than a warm film of oil. But probably only for another
>couple of hours or so...what happens then?
the past several years since it was suggested to me by a very respected engine builder.
Now you have me thinking possible old wives tales vs facts. I have several knowledgeable
engineer buddies that I will present this to and try to get some facts. At the time it seemed
like a common sense solution, but you have made me start to think...I guess that is one of the
values of this type of discussion.
I haven't had your experience with Paralketone, but I suspect the lacquer thinner had fun
with your hands.
tomdal...@vnet.ibm.com
In <582off$14...@news.doit.wisc.edu>, mab...@globaldialog.com (Tom Betka) writes:
>>On 2 Dec 1996 21:46:18 GMT, tomdal...@vnet.ibm.com wrote:
>
>>dissapate" . I feel like it is much more important to be sure the oil or what ever solution is in
>>the sump to be clean, and then start the engine and run it for only a few seconds. Fully warming
>>up the engine insures that the hot oil will quickly end up back in the sump. After a flight, or trip
>>if I know the engine will sit for some period of time, I always go back to it after it is fully cool,
>>and then start and shut down quickly. That leaves cold(thick) oil on cold metal surfaces.
>>
>>Tom Dalrymple
>>
>Tom,
>
>is porous--and expands when hot. Some oil gets absorbed into the pores
>of the metal when the engine is warm/hot, and (hopefully) stays there
>until the next time the engine runs. This helps to prevent surface
>oxidation. You are quite correct stating that a surface film is
>important to the longevity of the engine... and that a cold film will
>"last" longer than a warm film of oil. But probably only for another
>couple of hours or so...what happens then?
>
>sprayed on the inside of the wing skins of a Maule aircraft I once
>worked on. I had to replace the entire top skin, so I removed it and
>it looked like a GIANT fly-strip on the bottom skin. Over the years
>the stuff had all dripped down to the bottom skin, which now had stuck
>to every piece of grass, mud, dirt & bug that came along. Took two
>gallons of lacquer thinner to clean out...! My point is that if that
>sticky (understatement!) stuff drips off a surface due to gravity--so
>does any oil you'd ever want to run in an engine.
>
>had a similar experience, so I don't feel qualified to comment. I
>would add however, that after your engine has run for awhile it has
tomdal...@vnet.ibm.com
In <5849pf$2j...@ausnews.austin.ibm.com>, tomdal...@vnet.ibm.com writes:
>In <582off$14...@news.doit.wisc.edu>, mab...@globaldialog.com (Tom Betka) writes:
>>>On 2 Dec 1996 21:46:18 GMT, tomdal...@vnet.ibm.com wrote:
>>
David Munday
In article <32a25082....@news2.ibm.net>, csn...@sciborg.uwaterloo.ca (Clarence Snyder) writes:
> Chris Stokes <cst...@tiac.net> wrote:
>
>>Any opinions out there on putting up a perfectly good Lycoming IO-360 for
>>the winter with desiccant plugs, some fancy kind of pickle juice, and
>>capped exhaust stacks?
>> Or should I just go out in the dead of winter and start her up every
>>couple of weeks?
>> Any experience with pickling out there?
>>
>>cst...@tiac.net
The Lycoming manual should have pickling proceedures in it. My favorite is the
one where you replace the engine oil with preservative oil, run the engine, and
then pour more preservative oil in the intake untill you choke the thing to
death. It then says something like "The Cylenders should smoke profusely".
There are less dramatic proceedures as well.
I read in an old Sport Aviation article that outboard motor oil is a reasonable
substitute for preservative oil.
Buy the Lycoming book, and read it.
--
Dave Munday - mund...@miavx1.acs.muohio.edu
Web Page: http://ourworld.compuserve.com:80/homepages/munday
PP-ASEL - Tandem Flybaby Builder - EAA-284 (Waynesville, OH)
Say whatever it is you have to say; Say it clearly; Say it ONCE.
ifly
You can get the preservative oil very easily from your oil dealer.
Rustban is one tradename, but the milspec is available on the Lycoming or
Continetal service bulletins. I definitely recomend using this stuff as
opposed to 2 stroke oil. It allegedly has the ability to climb up inside
your engine and coat bits by capillary action. If you mist your cylinders
with it, they should stay rust free indefinately.
I had an A-65 pickled in the stuff and left in a damp Garage for six
years. I gave it a quick dose every year, including the exterior, and the
engine was perfect at installation time. Not a scrap of rust.
It`s not expensive (about $30 for 25 liters) and I use it in lawnmowers,
etc when putting them up for the winter.
J. Morris
Charles K. Scott
In article <279300915...@acd.org>
Larry_W...@acd.org (Larry Weygandt) writes:
> Our powerplant instructor here a Skyline says you would be better off going
> out and starting it every couple of weeks vice pickling. Even with the exaust
> stacks plugged, you will still have one valve open which would allow moisture
> to enter the chamber.
Hmmm, wonder how the moisture is getting in if the exhaust is plugged
and the carburator is covered up? Doesn't that seal off the combustion
chamber completely?
Corky Scott
dhs...@ingr.com
Condensation???
scott rider
Corky,
I don't know about the combustion chamber, but the crankcase vent
is open and allows air to enter every night, and leave in the
morning due to heating and cooling.
That air contacts the cam and crank, not to mention the lower
part of the cyls.
I like the idea of running the engine till it is real hot, and
change the oil every "3000 miles" or 3 months.
Scott Rider
Own Opinions
Dan Marotta
Why would anyone "run it till it is real hot" without just flying it???
It would certainly be more fun to fly than sitting with the brakes
applied...
Dan Marotta
scott rider
Dan Marotta <sd...@fssc.com> wrote:
>scott rider wrote:
>>
>> I like the idea of running the engine till it is real hot, and
>> change the oil every "3000 miles" or 3 months.
>>
>> Scott Rider
>> Own Opinions
>
>Why would anyone "run it till it is real hot" without just flying it???
>It would certainly be more fun to fly than sitting with the brakes
>applied...
>
>Dan Marotta
Just got back from lunch and saw your post.
(I was out running my engine til it got real hot)
Shot a VOR-DME and an ILS, then did a few short field T&Gs.
I don't know how to answer your question, that's not the way I get
my engine hot.
Scott Rider
(Own Thoughts Leaking Out to the Net)
John R. Johnson
On Thu, 12 Dec 1996, Dan Marotta wrote:
<snip>
>
> Why would anyone "run it till it is real hot" without just flying it???
> It would certainly be more fun to fly than sitting with the brakes
> applied...
>
you should go ahead and take off as soon at they are warmed up enough to
stop rattling! Excessive ground running is likely to cause overheating
because of the reduced airflow through the cylinder fins. On the other
hand, engines like the old radial on my airplane will not come close to
full power until the oil is thoroughly warmed up! The POH for the engine
recommends running at 7-800 RPM with the prop in max high pitch on the
ground until the oil temperature is over 100 degrees. Then, and only
then, should you allow RPM's over 1000.
John
ifly
Still hard to beat using a preservative oil in place of ordinary engine
oil. It doesn`t drain off of parts, and it`s said (by the manufacturers)
that it actually climbs up the insides of your engine. I`ve been using it
for years now, including inside of an A-65 that was left in a damp garage
for years, with absolutely no corrosion whatever.
Jeff Morris
Tom Betka
Jeff,
Cool... What name brand oil do you recommend?
Tom Betka
ifly
I use an Esso product called Rustban 335 because it`s available where I
live. There`s quite a few of them, though. Use a Mil-spec oil as
recomended by your engine manufacturer.
Here`s a website with info on pickling your engine.
<ahref="http://gtravis.ucs.indiana.edu/aviation/manuf.html">
http://gtravis.ucs.indiana.edu/aviation/manuf.html</a>
OK?