[W] FAQ -- Tech
Jan Vandenbrande
Frequently Asked Questions
for
Water Cooled VWs
-- Technical --
==========================================
rec.autos.vw
Date: 1 June 1993
Version:
1 Feb 93 = Removing O2 Snsr; Offrd lights #; tools
1 Mar 93 = Brake rotor edits; VW part numbers; sagging doors;
Compression checks; adjusting valves.
1 Apr 93 = Stuff on interchangebility on parts; Rim offsets
1 May 93 = Eliminating rattles & squeeks, updated timing belt
procedure, water pump failure diagnosis,
added keyword <NOISE> for easy diagnosis, clutch sizes.
1 Jun 93 = CAM Baffles, Index.
1 Jul 93 = Edits.
1 Aug 93 = Chemical Info added.
Moderator: Jan Vandenbrande
j...@ug.eds.com (new address)
j...@camhpp12.mdcbbs.com (old address)
j...@lipari.usc.edu (school address, works)
See also the list of contributors at the end.
Please feel free to submit any additional info.
--------------------------------------------------------------------
Index:
======
General issues (tools, VW part no system)
Chemicals (Useful chemicals to have around)
Engine (Rough idle/stalling, oil filter, more power,
water pump, plugs, O2 sens)
Electrical (Bosch # conventions, charging problems, lights, etc)
Transmission (CVJoints, shifting, gear oils)
Brakes (Types, fluids, rotors)
Tires/Rims/Suspension (shocks, tire widths & rim upgrades, perfomance)
Body/Interior (Eliminating rattles, waxing)
Miscellanea (Corrado spoilers squeeks)
GENERAL
=======
Editor's Foreword:
This FAQ is geared predominantly at the technical aspects of
watercooled VWs based on the Golf Chassis's (A1-A3: Golf I/Rabbit,
Golf II & III, Sciroccos, Corrados, Jettas, Vento, Convertibles)
using the original Audi "1600 type" engine block
(now available up 2 liters) and the new VR6 2.8/2.9l engine
aimed at the US/Canadian market.
Not covered are the engines/fuel systems available outside
North America such as the 1300 cc engines, carburators/mono-throttle
FI systems.
These cars have many similarities with Dashers/Passats/Fox's.
These are mostly mechanical, but not for the styling,
suspension & exhausts.
Q: I have a problem with my car? What do I do? How should I go about
fixing it?
A: Diagnose the problem as well as you can: When does it happen?
Is it speed dependent? Is there a noise associated with it? Where is
it coming from? Is the problem temperature dependent? Happens
at start up/after a while? Are there any physical signs such as
fluids/grease/wear marks? Does everything look in good order/everything
still attached?
While you are going over your car, check whether all the basic
things are in order.
VW engines run hot and vibrate a lot. As a result things rattle
loose and dry out quickly. This in turn causes a host of other
problems.
Electrical connections & wires: Connectors tend to corrode,
wires break internally. Older VWs have alot of problems which
will make you think the car is totally gone while all it
may be is a loose wire, or a bad ground.
Also check out less obvious things: alternator brushes, fuse box,
Hall connections *inside* the distributer?
Vacuum hoses: They crack, they leak. Replace where needed.
Beware of all rubber components. They wear out with all the heat.
If your engine does not run, there are really two main sources:
Mechanical and periphery. Generally, VW engines hold up mechanically
rather well, and even with mechanical problems you can often get the
engine to run.
Usually the problem is located with the periphery. You really
only need two basic things to make an engine run: Fuel and a spark
at +/- the right moment. Suspect a problem with either one first
and trace it from there.
If for example the problems occurs each time it rains, suspect
something wrong with an electrical connection or water
leaking onto the fuze box.
Yours truly once had problems with a carb
and was able to start and run the engine while spraying carb
cleaner directly into the intake manifold (with the carb REMOVED).
Cleaning the car and engine is often helpful in locating the problem,
especially leaks. It also make working on the car so much easier,
for you and the mechanic.
If you haven't found it yet, read through your manuals and try
to identify the offending piece?
Ask around. r.a.vw is an excellent source for help, but please
be as detailed as you can. If you are having trouble diagnosing
the problem, just imagine how hard it is for us not even
having seen the car.
So *please* don't post: "My car makes a funny noise. What could it be?"
Start with make, model, year, and an accurate diagnosis.
After you narrow it down to a couple of potential sources, start with
the easiest and cheapest fix.
My experience is that a majority of
seemingly serious problems can be traced to very simple problems.
Mechanics do NOT have the time to check individual components.
Many work on commission (like department stores) and the more
cars they work on (not fix) the more they earn.
Therefore, they usually take the quickest route for them (replace stuff),
and of course you end up paying for that shiny new part through the
nose eventhough it does not fix the problem.
Besides, would you pay a mechanic $200 to fix
a 50cent connector because it took him/her the whole day to find it?
Q: I want to work on my VW. What tools should I get?
A: I'd recommend Muir's (Complete Idiot) Stage I and Stage II tool list.
Here is roughly the "phylosophy" to follow:
Most people start with a couple of tools and then buy more as time
progresses and they learn how to work on their car.
It makes sense, except that it is usually
cheaper to buy the most complete "set" rather than buying a small
set and then adding on (e.g., socket "set" = 50 UScents a socket in the
largest set, individual = 2-7 US$/piece).
My recommendation therefore is to buy the largest possible set
of whatever you can afford. Trust me, you will always be going back
for more.
Next, what brand name should you get. In North America, I'd recommend
the Craftsman tools. They are good for average amateur use and
have a lifetime warrantee. Other good tools: SnapOn, KD, ???
Avoid cheap tools, they are NOT worth the money, they can do more
harm than good (stripping), and may actually hurt you.
My order of preference is (and I'll be flamed for this, but this
IS based on 15 years of experience): Made in the USA or NW-Europe, &
Japan. I usually stay away from Taiwanese tools except for one shot
"light" duty items.
A basic set should consist of:
Socket set: Most versatile is a 3/8" ratchet drive set. It must contain
10, 13, 17, 19, and sparkplug socket.
Couple extension bars and a 3/8-1/4" adaptor
12 pt sockets are the most common, but you may want to consider
a 6 pt set instead. They are MUCH less likely to strip
and break if you need to exert a good amount of torque.
Deep sockets are also useful in case you need to clear
a bolt.
A torque wrench is also very useful. Unfortunately
there is no one size for all torques on the car.
There are a variety of models: Cheapest are those with a
read out gauge. They work well but usually you end up
in a position that you cannot read the gauge.
I prefer the "click type" torque wrenches where you dial in
the desired torque and it will give you a load click
once you attain that.
Screw drivers: Get a whole bunch of sizes, spade & Philips
Allen Keys: Get a whole bunch of sizes, though you may want to get
Allen key Sockets to use with your 3/8" drive (once
you figure out the sizes you need).
Wrenches: Get the largest set you can afford. Open and closed.
Same sizes as above. Get at least one large adjustable one.
Pliers: Again, get the largest set you can afford, regular
& miniature, straight, needle nosed.
Vise Grips are usefull too.
Hammers: Get a plastic & rubber one. The "normal" hammers are usually
not used on cars except in utter frustration.
Screw Extractor Set: Get a set, just in case.
Jack & Stands: I'd recommend a floor jack over a bottle or scissor jack.
A floor jack will make raising your car *so* much easier.
Stands are also a must. You dont want you car crashing down
on you.
Lights: At the minimum get a knock-about light with a shatter
proof heavy duty lamp in it (don't even *think* of using
a regular light bulb, dangerous, and they only last 10
minutes under those conditions).
Oil Filter wrench: Different types exist and it depends on what works
best for your car. My favorite is the one that looks like
an extension bar with a loop of seat belt material.
Air Pump: Pump up tires...
Tire gauges: Dial types are usually the most accurate.
Odds an ends: Tie wraps, electrical wires & connectors, elec. tape,
vacuum hoses, hose clamps.
>>>> STILL NEEDS WORK <<<<<
Q: My A1 based VW sounds very buzzy and noisy, vibrations in the <NOISE>
engine compartment. What's wrong?
A: Check the front right engine mount. They wear out in ~50k miles.
From [KIRBY ERLANDSEN]: My tricks are cut the old one out with a hacksaw (
this is easy because you can remove the hacksaw blade and cut from
the inside out ) and put the new mount in the freezer while you
heat the bracket in the oven. Then with gloves on, you can hammer
the two together fairly easily.
If that does not work, bring it to a machine shop and have them
press it in for you.
Q: My odometer/trip odometer stopped working. How do I fix it?
A: This is an old known problem. The odometer gear which drives the
1/10 mile splits thus no longer engages the shaft to the 1/10 mile
digit wheel.
You can glue it back with epoxy (after you spend some prime time
behind your dash removing the speedometer and opening it up).
Hints on removing: A2's are alot easier than A1's.
The hardest part is unscrewing the speedo cable.
Try taking the lower dash covers off and put your hand
up from the bottom. Also I just remove the steering wheel
before working on the cluster. It makes it a whole lot
easier, but be sure your sterring wheel and shaft are marked
so you can get them back on the same. Otherwise your wheel
will be crooked when you drive straight.
Reinstalling is harder because you have to be sure the square
drive on the speedo matches up with the cluster. Otherwise the
cable will not seat fully or the speedo nut is hard to start.
Also, be careful to align the wiring connector before trying
to insert - it's polarized.
Other hint: I also twisted some fine wire around the flanges of the
gear (near the shaft) and put glue over the wire and flanges.
Make sure to get the gear back in the proper postion under the worm gear.
Other hint: I usually go down to the
junk yard and look for damaged dashboards and speedo's. Usually one has
the gear I need -- I just pry it off -- this is a no cost item
if you have a friendly junk yard owner.
Other hint: Another approach I used on my '79 Rabbit was to go to a hobby
shop and find a small pinion gear for those electric race cars.
It had the right number of teeth, and same ID, but was slightly wider
and had an Allen set screw.
I filed off the outer edges to clear the other worm gears
and mounted it on the shaft with the set screw. Looked weird, but worked
OK. The gear will cost about $3 and you need the fine Allen key wrench.
You can also send it to have it fixed at:
VDO (the OEM) in VA, (703) 665-0100
Q: What is VWs part numbering scheme?
A: Each part number is composed of nine numbers in three groups, followed
optionally with a letter suffix (taken from WolfSport's catalog):
vvv ggg ppp [s]
vvv: Vehicle type ggg: PRIMARY INDEX
171 = R/G I 100-199 = Engine/Cooling/Clutch
161 = Jetta I 200-299 = Fuel Tank
165 = Jetta II 300-399 = Xmission/Transaxle
261 = 16V GTI 400-499 = Front Axle/Suspension
531 = Scirocco I 500-599 = Rear Axle
535 = Scirocco II 600-699 = Brake
155 = Convertible 700-799 = Cables
800-899 = Body/Interior
900-999 = Electrical
ppp: Individual Part Number s: Suffix, optional
The primary index and the part number are the most important numbers
because many of the cars share the same parts. So do not be surprised
to see a 171-Rabbit type part in a Jetta.
Note: This is scheme has been in use since the Beetle days
(111 - Standard Beetle - LHD) but I leave that for the [A] FAQ.
AUDI uses the same scheme as well (?).
CHEMICALS
=========
NOTE: This section lists some of the more useful chemicals to use on cars.
Be aware that many of these chemicals are harmful if used improperly
and could result in stripped paint, rubber becoming brittle, up to
poisoning, cancer and death.
Dispose of them environmentally!
See also the section of Waxing for body care chemicals.
Q: What are some of the useful chemicals to have around?
A: Cleaners:
Brake Cleaner - (Spray) Make sure it's not too harmfull for rubber
Carb/FI Cleaner - Useful for cleanning FI/Carb related components.
Get the type that does NOT harm catalytic conv.
(Spray).
General - Simple Green (great and safe), engine cleaner
"Chem Clean" - A can or bucket of chemicals that degreases bearings
CVJs REAL fast.
Hand Cleaner - With pummice. Just buy a big vat. They are great,
much better than dishwash-liquid or regular soap.
Lubricants:
Penetrant oil - E.g., "LiquidWrench". Eventually loosens stuck parts.
WD40 - General purpose light "lubricant"/penetrant
Anti-Seize - See below.
Case of engine Oil
Lithium Grease - Spay can for hard to reach places
Molybdenum Grease - For bearings (NOT CVJs!)
Talcum Powder - For rubber components
Silicone Spary - Good for lubricating non-metal components.
Rumored to dry out rubber though.
Paint/Body:
Body Paint - For touch ups/scratches.
Primer - I prefere cold galvanising primer
Naval Jelly - Rust remover (Phosphoric acid, i.e., coka cola).
Others:
Brake quiet - Sticky stuff to put on the pad backing to eliminate
squeels.
Glues - Depending on what you need to glue, use Epoxy,
rubber cement, RTV/Silicone Rubber, etc.
ThreadLocker - See below.
Distilled water - Battery & for coolant mixing
There is more, but buy some only as you need them because they may
dry out.
Q: What should I do with Loctite Threadlocker (tm) and Anti Seize (tm)?
A: Use Anti-seize on anything that you will dissassemble again and
is subject to corrosion (water pump bolts, wheel bolts, exhaust
bolts), but be careful on sparkplugs and oxygen sensors (it contains lead
which kills the cat, make sure it's on the threads only).
Use Loctite Threadlocker (medium strength is ok) on anything you don't
want to rattle loose and you cannot use serrated o-rings: Brake bolts, etc.
I use anti-seize the most, and if you torque things right, I never had
a problem of anything rattling loose.
Note that Loctite also seals out air, and therefore prevents corrosion
which means that dissassembly will also be facilitated, compared
to something rusted shut. A small tube of each goes A LONG way.
ENGINE
======
Q: I have a very rough idle/stalling problem when the car is cold (or warm)
What can I do to fix it?
A: This is an old problem that may have numerous causes.
Mostly A2 Golfs/GTIs/Jettas/GLIs are affected. First make
sure everything "obvious" is ok: vacuum hoses, electrical connections,
tuned up right, spark plugs, distributor, etc.
Depending on the model, do the following:
- Clean idle stabilizer VALVE with brake or carb cleaner (VW&P)
(Note: Earlier cars had a Digital Idle Stabilizer circuitry (DIS)
which is something different, and *rarely* fails).
- Check (idle) throttle switch
- Clean sensor plate & throttle body orifices
- Check *all* vacuum hoses & electrical connections
- Check distributor (carbon build up will cause misfires/bad idle)
- Check warm-up regulator/thermo switch
- Check proper working of the Oxygen Sensor (see Bentley)
Hint: Disconnect the O2 sensor, if the car runs better suspect that
it may be bad.
- Check the working of the injectors (incl 5th one).
- Check the injector O-rings (older cars)
- Change to a different brand/type of gas (4-5 tanks)
VW had a bulletin out on this. They recommend Shell, Chevron & AMOCO(?)
- Use AutoBahn injector cleaner (it's = Chevron's Techroline, but cheaper!)
- Use fuel dryer (using ISOPROPANOL NOT Methanol)
- Change the fuel filter
- Clean the tank screen at the bottom of the tank or on the
transfer fuel pump (& also clean the tank if you find junk)
From WEN...@FIRNVX.FIRN.EDU (Mark):
When I pulled the hose off the intake side of the fuel pump it only
dribbled slowly from the tank! No Gusher!
That was a real clue that the tank was faulty, and not the pump. :)
- Clean the screen *inside* the fuel pump.
- Check whether the filtering banjo bolt (has a screen) near the
fuel distributer has been removed at the first service (mostly A2
cars with FI in the US, don't know about Europe).
It's replaced with a bolt w/o a screen (Part nos: Screw = N 0210715
Washers = N 0138128, for *most* A2 cars).
If it is left, it may clog or restrict flow.
- Check the health of the fuel pump(s) (measure the amount of current
it is drawing). Note, many A2s have two pumps!
- Improperly grounded potentiometer (90 Golf: sco...@pangea.Stanford.EDU)
- Check the CONTROL PRESSURE REGULATOR. Apparently the heating element
wears out, and it won't give correct pressure until it warms up
- Faulty oil pump relief valve. Pumps up the hydraulic lifters too
much limiting compression. Apparently mentioned in EuroCar.
- If nothing helped, you may need a new ECU!
(The 91?,92? Jettas went through 5 different ECUs, according to
my mechanic).
- >>>> MORE????
Q: What oil filter should I use on my VW?
A: VW's, MANN's or Bosch (OEM). FRAM (PH2870) or other brands do NOT have
the same valving (backflow, bypass), valving rates, rigidity of
construction, and quality. The other brands will work ok, but you may be
running a risk. Several known cases of Corrado G60s blowing FRAM
filters open. Some known cases of Porsches ruining engines with
FRAM filters due to inadequate gaskets.
MANN filters are also available from Beck Arnley World Parts,
and are packaged under that brand, so they are much cheaper than the
factory filters.
The function of the bypass valve is to bypass the oil filter if
the filter is clogged or the oil is too viscous during a cold start.
Dirty oil is better than NO oil.
The anti-backflow valve prevents the oil from draining out of the engine
block into the oil pan. This means that oil will be available
almost instantaneously at a start up, which is also when
the majority of wear occurs (SLICK 50 is not lying about that).
The VR6 engines have this valve build into the engine!
[Jan: Compared to the SLC oil filters (~15-20US$), the regular
filters now seem cheap (~4-6US$)]
NOTE: Newer VWs DO NOT use the same filters as before. The G60
filter is recognizable by the "nut" welded on the bottom,
the SLC does NOT use a filter but a replaceable insert (two kinds
available, a short and a long one, measure before you buy).
Q: I want to improve the performance of my car? Where should I start?
A: Yourself. The average person only utilizes a small portion of their
cars capabilities, and often do not know how the car handles under
emergency conditions. Taking a performance "Driving School" from one of
the local clubs (e.g. SCCA, ~1/2 day, inexpensive, fun) or from a
performance driving school (e.g. Bob Bundurant, expensive, fun) is
probably the biggest single improvement you can make.
In every day driving it may make the difference between life and death!
Q: How can I get more power out my VW?
A: Buy an SLC :->. It's an FAQ that's worthy of a book, and that's
probably where you should start. Here are a couple of old known
one liners which are easy & relatively inexpensive (mostly for
North America, Europeans usually have less luxurious but faster
cars):
In general: Reduce the exhaust backpressure (performance exhaust)
Advance the timing (recurved distributors...)
Improve breathability (K&N Filtercharger)
Add a hotter cam
Enlarge the engine (change head, pistons, etc)
Replace the engine with a more powerful one :-)
83-84? GTI: Change throttle body.
84 Scirocco (US): For the JH 1.8 big-valve engine.
Use a dual-outlet exhaust manifold from any early car
up to '81, get the short TT's downpipe (retain cat)
for 10 hp, with a 17% gain at 4200 rpm and more torque
Optionally: replace exhaust system from the cat back
(US$150) & factory VW g-grind camshaft (Autotech, $99)
Fox: Remove exhaust restrictor (see also EuroCar:
April 89, Aug. 89, Dec. 89, Apr. 90, Aug. 90)
90-92 Passat: Remove air-intake restrictor, APS Chip, cam
APS chip for automatics that is supposed to do wonders
for low end and shift points.
Applicable to all cars with 9A engine (inc. 16V GLI).
85 GTI: Change ignition map by cutting wire #11?? on the ECU.
85-87 GTI: KE-Jetronics: Advance ignition 12 degr/until knock
for more low end (5-8 Hp gain).
90-92 16V GTI/GLI: KE-Motronic Power chips from Autothority & APS.
Corrado G60: Stage 1, 2 & 3 chips/packages from APS & Autothority.
Stage 1/P-Chip: Chip swap, improves low end by torque
18%, high end by ~5%. Gas consumption improves
but you do need Super Unleaded.
Stage 2: Pulley change & chip => alot more power. Wear?
Stage 3: Like Stage 2 but with a CAM
Remove cold air snorkel (too restrictive) =>
1-2 Hp gain at the top end (Note WAY too noisy).
Corrado SLC: Power chips available from both APS & AutoThority.
Gain of 7-10 Hp, but improves drivability.
Remove cold air snorkel (too restrictive).
Replace with updated throttle body w/o internal
air ramp. The above combined produced an additional
30 Hps.
All cars: Use a K&N Filtercharger air filter element (some
will argue whether this makes any difference).
High end improves a bit. Corrados: 3 Hp gain at top.
Replacing the airbox with a filter at the end
of the air intake also provides some additional gain
(but you'll also hear more engine noise...).
>>>Probably LOTS MORE...
Caveat: Most of the above are merely small fixes that do not require
replacement of a major engine component such as the cam or the
exhaust system, which is usually the next step towards major engine
improvements. Those enhancements require alot more work and expertiese to
install.
Caveat II: Most of the above improvements are approved by the air
resource boards for street legal use, but some are not (Stage II, Corrado).
Before you install any equipment, make sure that you understand
the full implications.
Tampering with pollution control equipment is a serious crime,
punishable with a 20 000 US$ fine in many states of the USA.
Q: What's a K&N air filter?
A: It's a washable (i.e., reusable) airfiler made out of an oiled
cloth like material over a wire mesh matrix.
It is supposed to let through more air while retaining the same
filtering capabilities. More air => more power, especially at
higher rpms.
In practice however, the reviews have been mixed. Hot VWs (Dec 92)
reported a 3-5 Hp gain on the high end in a Jetta.
Others have reported no difference or even a slight degrade in
performance.
My *speculation* is that some cars require to see some vacuum to
get the right amount of fuel, kind-a like a choke (e.g., carburated cars).
The same is true with some FI cars (measure vacuum) while other FI
cars measure air flow.
By the way, a 3-5 Hp difference is within normal daily variance
of an engine because of external factors such as gas quality,
viscosity of the oil, ambient temp, etc. You can probably gain
as much from pumping up your tires harder to reduce rolling resistance
(but increase wear).
Q: I want to flush my cooling system. Where can I get phosphate free
coolant other than at the overpriced dealer prices?
A: Phosphates corrode aluminum (all VW heads), which is why VW
recommends to use phosphate free coolants. In the US market,
all the popular brands (Prestone, Xerex) contain phosphate in
a buffered solution which they claim will be ok.
I have used Prestone without seemingly ill effects, but if
you want to be 100% sure, not void warrantee, use VW's coolant.
Furthermore, mix with DISTILLED water, NOT tap water.
Redline sells a "wetting" agent as an additive that improves
heat transfer. It comes in two forms solid, which contains phosphates,
and liquid w/o phosphates (OK). People who have used it can't tell
any difference under normal driving conditions.
Under normal street use you will not see any change because the
thermostat is regulating the temp.
It's only when you exceed the capacity of your system and the thermostat
is all the way open that the wetting agent will have an effect.
The wetting agent is supposed to improve heat transfer and can
reduce engine temp by as much as 30F.
The guy said that its good insurance when your car is put under
heavy duty (stuck in traffic on a hot day, making a desert run, auto-x).
Unverified claim: Texaco's coolant is also Phos free. HALF the cost!
An other alternative described in European Car (Oct 91) is to use !pure!
propolyene glycol that has a higher boiling point than ethyleen glycol
though worse heat transfer properties. [boro...@hpspkla.spk.hp.com]
The higher power VW engines have a problem with pinging under heavy load.
This is due to the coolant boiling inside the head.
Coolant vapor is a very poor heat conductor. This loss of cooling
causes hot spots to form on the combustion chamber side of the head,
causing pinging. The propolyene glycol does not boil, and this cools
the hot spots better. Thus, pinging is avoided, and more power is
available if the timing is set to take advantage of the reduced chance
for pinging. The cooling system is NOT presurized, but vented
to boil residual moisture away (which lowers the boiling pt).
A kit to make the switch is available from: MECA Cooling Company
[See the first general FAQ for address]
Another thing to note is that VWs original coolant DOES NOT have
to be renewed every two years like Prestone (this according to VW).
The reason is that coolants like prestone have sacrificing chemicals
that prevent corrosion for a certain period. VWs coolant does not
have any sacrificing chemicals and therefore does not wear out.
Q: What's the easiest way of removing a water pump (A1 & A2 VWs)?
A: The idea is to remove the *entire* pump assembly first, and
separate the pump halves outside of the car.
To remove the entire pump assembly, you have to remove all
"fan" belts, pulleys, the drive belt covers, loosen the alternator
(easy), remove the PS pump (easy once you locate the bolts,
don't need to disconnect the hoses), and the AC (just move it out
of the way), and then removing the pump is trivial. It's just
the rest of the stuff that's a pain, depending on the model.
Another tip: If your pump leaks between the halves, it's safer
to replace the pump as one unit rather than the impeller half.
Chances are that the leaking pump is warped, and no matter how
often you replace one half, it'll *always* give you problems.
Use anti-seize on the bolts during reassembly.
While you are at it, check or replace the thermostat. They do
get lazy after a while. Checking/replacing the hoses may not be
such a bad idea either (note: they last ~ 70k miles or ~10 yrs IMHO).
On A1 Diesels (maybe A2) however it's easier to remove the timing belt,
and then remove the impeller half of the pump.
However [Borowski] the timing belt need not be removed on cars without air
conditioning. Once the alternator bracket is removed, the water pump
comes out easily.
Q: How often should I change my drive belt?
A: 8Valve engines, around 60-75k miles, 16V's BEFORE you reach 50k miles.
8V engines will NOT be damaged if the thing breaks, 16v will be.
The RV6 engines use an actual chain rather then a synthetic belt
and do not have to be changed.
Note that tensioning the belt correctly is tricky, if it's
too tight you may prematurely wear out a bunch of bearings.
If it's on too tight, you'll hear a characteristic
whining/high pitched sound. <NOISE>
From [Lee Hetherington]: THE MORAL OF THE STORY IS TO SET THE TENSION
BY TRIAL AND ERROR BEFORE YOU PUT THE COVER BACK ON.
Q: I hear an intermittent high pitched chirping noise that comes <NOISE>
and goes when I rev the engine?
A: This could be caused by a bunch of things.
First check whether all the belts are on tight enough, but also not
too tight (there is a difference between a belt slipping, e.g., when
you go through a puddle, and a bearing being over stressed).
Remove all belts, and if the noise persists, suspect the drive
belt tensioner. (You can actually feel it vibrate when it chirps,
but don't get your fingers stuck).
They are easy and cheap to replace, see elsewhere for a replacement
tensioning tool.
If that's not it, and the drive belt is not on too tight (see above)
then you may be in trouble.
Q: How do I know whether my water pump is going bad?
A: Obviously if it starts to leak either through the pump half seam
or the bearing (the little hole on the bottom).
However, there are also other failure modes you have to be
aware of:
If the car makes a grinding whish-whish-whish sound when cold <NOISE>
which diminishes as you drive, the pump bearing may be failing
and the impeller is machining the pump housing into slivers.
To check for this condition, remove all belts, and spin the
waterpump pulley. If it turns well damped and smooth, it's fine.
If it feels gritty and crunchy, it's machining itself.
If on the other hand it spins loosely, the impeller may have
detached itself from the shaft.
Note that you should not mistake the grinding whish-whish-whish <NOISE>
sound from a regular whish-whish-whish noise. <NOISE>
In this case the belts may be simply getting hard or the pulleys are
out of line.
To check for this, take a can of Silicon spray and spray it on the
belts while the car is idling.
If the sound disappears immediatly, you found the problem.
Either replace the belts, or use some hard soap on them (but don't
loose your fingers for this either).
If the pulleys do not line up, check whether any of the bushing are
worn (e.g., the rubber alternator bushing as found on older A1 VWs is
notorious for wearing out).
Otherwise use spacers and O-rings to get them to line up.
Q: Why the hole at the bottom of the impeller housing?
A: To keep the bearings dry. Moisture is the death of bearings.
Seals are never quite perfect, thus the hole.
From: boro...@spk.hp.com (Don T. Borowski)
Q: Where are the timing marks on A1 & A2 VWs?
A: At the top of the clutch/bell housing you will find a plastic plug.
Pulling the plug allows you to use a magnetic factory sensor.
If you want to use a strobe, you will have to *unscrew* the whole
plug assembly. Then you'll see a reference mark, and an arrow
somewhere on the flywheel:
Mark in hole: [ ]
^
flywheel: |
Normally the two have to line up under normal idle & a strobe connected
to cylinder #1.
Some cars require certain vacuum hoses or the idle stabilizer
to be disconnected. Check manual.
Note: Some cars (e.g. 87 & 88 GTI 16V) also have marks on the
front pulley, with an arrow on the end of the block.
Note: Excessive advance raises combustion temperatures and pressures,
while excessive retard extends the burning cycle through the exhaust
and raises exhaust temps. (Mark Shaw)
Q: My radiator leaks, what should I do?
A: Replace it. In most VWs this is pretty easy to do (1 hr), and a new
radiator (which is = OEM) can be had for around 100-150US$.
The hard part, esp. in older cars and in Europe, is finding
the right radiator. Even VW does not keep track of what car left
the factory with what radiator. Furthermore, the serial numbers
are not very useful because they may not be available anymore.
What you need to do is first measure the core length of the
radiator, than determine whether it has an external recovery
tank, and then determine whether it is screw in mount
(mostly pre-82) or the newer pin-points (Wolfsport has some
good explanation of this).
Now you need to decide whether you want the same radiator,
or a larger one. Most VWs come pre-drilled to accept certain
larger radiators.
Larger radiators are used in cars with A/C, or if the car is
destined for a warmer climate (though that may not be where the car
is sold).
You also may want to install the largest possible radiator if
you auto-x, do long desert runs or tow something.
A larger radiator allows a larger cooling capacity,
which means it can dissipate heat quicker. This does NOT mean that
it will run cooler on *average* because that's controlled by
the thermostat (a.k.a. "aquastat" in some places).
Some 3rd party places (e.g., JC Whitney) sell
generic radiators with a conversion kit which are much harder to
install, and not recommended.
Whatever you do, avoid the temptation to use one of those
Stop Leak products at all cost because it'll block more
than just your leak (like the heater core). rgo...@UMASSD.EDU
Q: What causes engine knock/pinging/detonation? <NOISE>
A: Too much advance. Check Timing. Also check VALVE timing.
Too low gas octane/too high engine compression.
Engine overheating.
Carbon build up on valves.
An improperly torqued knock sensor can cause the sensor to not function
correcly resulting in knock and/or loss of power.
Failing knock sensor.
NOTE: Do not mistake engine knock or pinging for other problems.
Knock occurs under load (e.g., accelerating, going up a hill,
fast driving). Knock seldomly occurs under no load conditions
(e.g., idle or revving the engine). If you hear a rattle there <NOISE>
it may be something else: valves, bearing, wristpin slap, etc.
Q: I have an A2 VW and I hear buzzing from the rear of the car? <NOISE>
A: These cars have two fuel pumps: The transfer pump which is mounted
*inside* the gas tank, and the regular pump which pumps the gas
to the fuel distributor.
Just berfore you start the car (key in "on" position) you should
here a slight buzzing that MUST go away after 5 seconds.
Whenever the buzzing noise becomes increasingly more audible while
driving, it may indicate that one of the pumps is about to fail.
Changing the fuel filter may help.
Bentley manual has a procedure to check the health of the pump,
basically by measuring the current being drawn.
Cleaning the fuel filter screen with the xfer pump also seems to help.
The transfer pump makes a 'wugga wugga wugga' noise when the key is
turned on, and then goes away.
Q: I seem to have lost power?
A: Check the following:
- Vacuum hoses
- Fuel Filter
- Ignition timing
- Valve timing (belt may have slipped)
- Spark plugs
- Valve clearances (older cars)
- Other defects...
Q: What are the correct spark plugs for my car?
A: Check the manual, however the manual/Bentley/dealer may sometimes be
wrong. Here is some info collected over time:
Regular Champions do not work well with VWs.
Most 8V engines upto 87 can use Bosch WR7D? where ? = S, P
9A Engines (16v form August 1989 - present): Bosch FR6DS, ZVP121086S
the manual list F6DTC, which is equivalent (see differences in below).
G60's use W6DPO (and cost 16US$ EACH!).
Q: What does the Bosch spark plug number mean?
A: For example: WR7DTC
W = Diameter (?) W= 14 mm (?)
R = Resistor (Radio interference surpression, not vital(?))
7 = Heat Range (lower numbers = colder plugs)
D = Length (?)
T = Tri-cathode. If missing, single cathode
C = Copper Anode.
Other values, Missing = Carbon, S = Silver, P = Platinum
Q: Do Split Fire plugs live up to their advertised claims?
A: Responces from the net & tests by TT indicate: NO, they are actually
worse than the recommended Bosch plugs.
Apparently it's covered with Techtonics "Amazing Dyno Stories:
Parts to get and parts to forget".
Q: Should I use Platinum plugs?
A: Only if it is recommended by either the sparkplug or car manufacturer.
The results have so far been mixed. Some people feel a marked and
sustained improvement over regular copper or silver plugs others
felt a decrease in performance and cold starting.
Q: What net wisdom exists on exhaust systems?
A: Gilette: Good balance for street and autox & last LONG
Some will debate that this is the best (stainless).
OEM supplier to VW.
Leistritz: good balance for street and autox. Galvanized.
Supertrapps: GREAT for road racing and autocrossing but way too
loud for everyday life (rgo...@UMASSD.EDU)
OEM: More recent VW mufflers have improved to the point
that little can be done to improve them in
street legal performance or durability.
Also keep in mind that VW now offers lifetime
warrantee on their replacement mufflers.
Avoid Midas, contrary to their commercials.
Q: How do I remove the oxygen sensor? It seems frozen.
A: [From: rka...@pitt.edu]
First you need the right 22mm wrench. And now the story from Rajiv:
Then he explained to me the secret of how he got it off.
[Applicable to the 1 wire systems attached to the exhaust manifolds ONLY,
the heat would ruin the catalytic converter, for those mounted on the
converter]
The sensor area needs to be heated, either by running and/or torch.
Then, you spray lots of penetrating oil into the slight crack,
where it gets sucked in by the pressure drop and by the cooling.
This gets the lubricant to the threads.
(I remember hearing that drilling holes just
to the threads is a good idea). Keep doing this repeatedly and keep
applying the wrench. Sooner or later (took them 1 hr) it'll come off.
Q: What does an engine compression test tell me about the health of my
engine?
A: There are different ways to check engine compressions, and they
can reveal specific internal defects.
General procedure:
1) Remove all spark plugs.
2) Ground center spark plug wire AWAY from the cylinders
3) Make sure you have a healthy battery & the car is at operating temp.
4) Attach compression gauge on cylinder 1
5) Put car in neutral & have friend push in clutch & accelerator
6) Have friend crank engine, note FIRST reading and reading after
pressure stabilizes (3-5 cranks).
7) Note down readings and repeat for all cylinders
8) A healthy engine should have all readings near mfg-ers spec,
and should be about +/- 10% of each other. If not...you are in trouble.
9) If one or more is low, but not adjacent cylinders (e.g. 1 & 3)
suspect either a burned valve or worn rings. If adjacent
cylinders are low, also suspect a bad head gasgket or a warped head.
10) To determine whether it's rings or valve, do a leak down test =>
Add a couple spoon fulls of regular engine oil to the engine through
the spark plug hole of the offending cylinder
11) Repeat measurement. If it remains low => Valve/Head, else if the
readings jumped up => Rings.
12) To distinguish between head vs valves => see a professional.
They'll lock the drive shaft, put air pressure on the cylinders
and watch for bubbles in the coolant fluid.
13) Also the first reading and the final readings should not be
too far appart.
Q: How often should I adjust my valves (gas engines)?
A: All/most? VWs made after 1985 have hydraulic valves, which adjust
themselves.
Cars before that need periodic adjustments.
Check for the recommended intervals in your
manual, do more frequently on older cars & with periodic compression
checks. Badly adjusted valves reduce power, increase pollution and
may lead to burned valves (valves cool thru contact with the head).
It's a fairly easy job to do, you DO need two special tools:
One to compress the valves and one to remove the adjusting shims.
They can be had at most car specialty stores.
All VW engines based on the old 1500 thru 1800 block use calibrated metal
shims (tappets) the size of AlkaSelzer pills for adjusting the valves.
You first measure your clearance, then determine how much off it is,
take out the old shim, calculate what new size you need, and race
of to your parts supplier (or use a shim from another valve).
Q: What's a CAM "saver" cover, alias CAM splash guard, alias CAM cover
baffle?
A: It's piece of plastic that fits between the actual CAM cover and the
upper CAM bearings (just wedged between the two).
When the car is running, oil is splashed around alot in the CAM chamber
(just try it...you'll have to repaint your garage)
and sometimes saturates the positive crankcase ventilation.
The PCV is connected to the breather tube on top of the CAM cover and
goes to the airfilter box.
When the PCV gets saturated it my drip oil into your airfilter box.
The CAM saver cover prevents oil from splashing directly on to the
inner CAM cover, and also allows oil to drip back directly on the CAM
providing extra lubrication instead of just sliding back along the sides.
Both VW and certain after market places sell these barriers for about
US$ 15.
Many of the newer VWs (87 GTIs) have such a barrier installed as stock, but
you can often retrofit your car with it as well.
Note that these things not always fit quite right...
According to Graig: You need to buy a new cam cover gasket set too as
you'll be junking your old one when you take the cam cover off.
If you have an aftermarket cam cover, trade it in for a factory one,
as the actual oil breather itself has a better baffle (rather than just
a screen or mesh like in some aftermarket ones).
This is a safe preventive too, even if you don't AutoX.
Everyone who even thinks of driving their VW hard should put one of
these baffles in there
ELECTRICAL
==========
Q: On the electrical diagrams, do the circuit numbers have any meaning?
A: Yes. VW uses Bosch numbering scheme, as do BMW & M-B.
The most common ones are:
1 = Ground (0 Volt)
15= Switched Positive (Hot when ignition is on)
30= Always hot "12 Volt" (eventhough it'll closer to 13.4 Volt)
Q: My battery is not charging well, I am only showing 12V when charging
rather than 13.4V. What is wrong?
A: There are numerous causes for this. Most of the time the problem
is fairly trivial. Going from cheapest to most expensive, try
the following:
- Check the ground connections, possibly install a new ground from
alternator to battery rather than using the engine block/transmission
as conductor. Forget trying to find the bad connection with an Ohm
meter: Say your alt. puts out 50 Amps, you'll get a drop of 1 Volt
for each .02 Ohm!!! Most VOMeters are not accurate enough in this
range.
So, those tiny little resistances that have build up over the
years REALLY add up.
Use a THICK (10 or less Gauge or "AWG"), multistrand wire.
- Check the alternator wiring harness. Same reason as above.
- Clean all related connectors (sand paper, file).
- Check for an unusual drain (unlikely but possible)
- Check/clean/replace the alternator brushes (easy, see wear limits in
Bentley).
- Check the battery water level (use distilled water)
- Have the battery checked (it may be shorting out)
- Have the alternator checked (diodes and regulator may be bad)
Alt. replacement is by the way trivial.
If the alt is bad, upgrade to a higher Amp one, especially
in older cars and if you have a powerful stereo system or aux lights
90 amp replacements are the current "hot" ticket.
Euro car had a detailed proceduer on this about 1 or 2 years ago.
Tip: When installing new (Halogen) lightbulbs in your car, make sure you
DO NOT touch the glass part of the lightbulb with your fingers.
Reason is because the oil from your fingers gets so hot that it makes
the bulb really hot and it explodes.
[If you do, clean it off with a high concentrate
alcohol: methanol,ethanol,iso-propanol].
Q: How can I improve night visibility/increase light output?
A: >>>>Need contributions here!!!!!
It all depends what you are starting from, and in what country
you live.
USA: Sealed beam units till 84 required, "aerodynamic" allowed thereafter
but must still conform to a rather pointed spread. 3 DOT nipples
for alignment required.
Canada: Same as USA. Northern Canada has slightly different regulations.
Europe: Non-sealed beams forbidden. Light is more evenly
distributed. Some countrys require yellow lights, and
different settings for city, highway and hi-beam lights.
Beware that whatever you do, you must NOT blind on coming traffic.
Some of the suggestions below are actually illegal for street use
in the US. However, judging from the large number of misaligned
lights in the US, your "illegal" mods will be less blinding than
a normal but badly aligned set of lights.
However, oncoming traffic may automatically assume that you are
blinding when they see more than 2 lights on at once (+ it may be
illegal in some states/driving conditions).
EuroCar had several articles on lighting in 91/92.
To improve visibility, try the following:
- Align your headlights. See Bentley or your local code for specs.
I usually go a tad higher than the specs w/o blinding.
- Change to halogen lights (yes, some of the sealed beam units are
not even halogen).
- Clean the unside of your non-sealed beam units with some alcohol
on some cotton/rag at the end of a wire/stick. (Pretty tricky.)
- Add fog lights (very wide, low, but not far reaching).
Set up correctly, fog lights DO NOT blind, per definition.
Don't buy generic brands, but minimally go for Bosch, Hella,
Cibie (sp?) and others.
- Add driving lights (narrow and far reaching).
Set up according to specs these DO blind, however, they can
often be set up lower so that blinding can be almost entirely eliminated.
- Change to one of the non-sealed aftermarket units, which are usually the
European style lamps.
- Change to the equivalent European "aero-style" units (e.g., A2 Jetta)
- Change to poly-elipsoidal, high-energy, "DE" lights. This is the newest
technology in lighting technology, more commonly found on newer
BMWs (though BMW uses an arc lamp rather than halogen).
EuroCar had several articles about these in 91/92.
- Change the wattage of your bulbs. This is actually not a good
solution because your lenses may crack because of heat build-up,
moisture accumulates faster, wiring may not be able to carry the load,
may blind, may not fit in all non-sealed units [According to
Andy, you cannot not put higher wattage lightbulbs into the
stock Noth American light lenses. Unverified...jan]
The 70/90 Watt versions of the H4 (9004) can be bought at off-road
places such as Competition Limited, (313) 464-1458 according to
Dilmore.
Q: What's that extra bright red light on some European cars?
A: That's a "Hinternebelshutslicht" (sp?), or rear-fog anti-crash light.
Many of the newer cars shipped to the US have these incorporated
(but not connected) into the rear lenses [Corrados, Passats, Audis].
Very effective in fog, snow and heavy rain.
Q: Why does my fog light switch have two positions that do not have any
effect?
A: It's to switch on the rear fog light(s), which is often not connected
in cars shipped to the US & Canada.
TRANSMISSION
============
Q: What shift mechanisms do VWs use over the years?
A: A1 & A2: Mechanical linkages
Corrado & Passat: Cable linkages
(The SLC/VR6 uses a SIMILAR mechanism as the G60,
contrary to some "knowledgeable" car mags. The
main difference is a counter weight on the SLC,
and a different mounting bracket)
A3: ?Cable linkages?
Q: What size clutches did VW use over the years?
A: According to Peter Tong:
There are 4 sizes. 190mm early gas rabbit (A1s), 200mm diesel rabbits,
210 mm 83-84 GTI, 85-92 G/J/ (A2s).
I think Sachs also sells a 215mm clutch kit as well - aftermarket.
Many clutches in these sizes come for road and racing applications.
You can also combine clutch discs with different
strength pressure plates as well. 16v clutch is similar but has provision
for the AGB trannys larger input shaft.
Note from Jan: In most cases a racing clutch ("4 puck") is really
not needed for street or Auto-X uses. VW clutches can easily handle
well above stock power.
Furthermore, racing clutches are very harsh (like all or nothing)
and much stiffer to depress.
Q: How can I improve shift effort/meshing of my gears?
First gear feels like there is something blocking it?
A: First check out the linkage adjustments, regrease where needed,
and older cars, possibly replace the old linkages/bushings.
A special spacer tool is needed for one of the adjustments (A1 & A2) which
happens to be exactly the same size as the skinny side of an audio
cassete. Other special tools may be needed.
Also check out whether the motor/xmission mounts are ok, misalignment
will cause shifting problems as will a dragging clutch.
If your shifting effort is hard/stiff on cold days & grinds in 1st & 2nd,
but easier once warmed up you may want to change to a synthetic
transmission fluid (see below).
Q: First gear grinds? <NOISE>
A: Shift into third thirst then shift into first.
Q: What transmission fluid should I use (manual cars)?
A: As far as I know, most/all water cooled VW Xmissions require gear fluid
with an API rating of GL-4 (MIL-2105).
The recommended GEAR viscosity hovers around 80W, 75W-80 or 75W-90
Note that 75W-80 GEAR oil is equivalent to 10W30 MOTOR
oil, but it is NOT recommended to use motor oil in gear boxes,
eventhough some japanese cars do so any way (has to do with shear strength).
GL-5 oil is made to lubricate gears (like in a differential) and
may cause premature wear on VW synchros. NOTE that GL-5 is recommended
for the *differential* on some AUTOMATIC VWs!
Quality of the gear oil makes a HUGE difference in shifting.
I have personally tried Castrol (HORRIBLE), SWEPCO (Better), VW
gear oil (good, I suspect that they use a synthetic in some cars), and
Redline MTL (best so far). Others seem happy with Mobil-1, Synthoil, etc.
How these oil affect xmission life is unknow to me.
Note that MTL is rated 75W80, while their newer product MT90
has a rating of 75W90 which may be closer to the required
viscosity of your transmission.
VW also sells synthetic transmission oil (at US$20/liter) which is
rumored to be very good as well.
Most VW Xmission use somewhere around 2-2.5 liters of oil.
Before you drain, make sure you have something to catch the oil
(an old jumbo coffee can is perfect).
Open the side fill hole first, because you'll have to fill it up
to either the fill hole or BEYOND.
You'll therefore either have a little bit leak out or 1/2 liter gush out.
To drain (the rest), unscrew 17 mm allen plug at the bottom of Xmission.
To fill, either unsrew speedometer cable or use the fill hole on the side.
Some VWs require the level of the oil to be just so that some drips
out of the fill hole, others (some A2 Golfs/Jettas) require an
additional 1/2 liter on top of that.
That's why it's a good idea to catch the old stuff and check the
fill hole first.
[NOTE: Some VW User's Manuals apparently do recommend GL-5 in some
xmissions, so check first! b...@cellar.org seems to be doing ok with
Redline GL-5 after 100kmiles in his car.]
Q: What's a CV Joint?
A: Constant Velocity Joints (Join Homokinetique (Fr)) connect
the two ends of your two drives shafts to your differential and
the wheels. They allow the drive axle to move and allows you to
transmit power when you turn. The closest equivalent is a
Universal Joint.
Q: How do CV Joints go bad and how can I prevent it from happening?
A: CV Joints wear out over time, like any other moving part.
However they wear out prematurely when the boot that surrounds
them cracks and lets in dirt, or when the CV grease deteriorates.
The boots crack because of age or because of street debris,
and therefore the outer CVJs (esp. with the more exposed CVJs in
A1 cars) are most subject to tearing.
To detect a tear in outer CVJ boot is easy: it'll throw black grease
all around your inner rim, around your brake.
Whenever you check your tire pressure, check for those signs.
To detect a rip in an inner CVJ boot, and small cracks in the outer,
you need to manually inspect them.
If you detect a ripped boot early, you can get away by merely
repacking the CVJ boot with CVJ grease and a new boot.
VW & Lobro sells kits that contains all you need.
If on the other hand, you did not detect the rip early, or
you hear a knocking sound when you turn, you may have to <NOISE>
replace the entire CVJ, a messy procedure requiring special tools.
Other symptoms of a bad CVJ includes increased & uneven steering
effort while driving.
CVJs also fail because the CVJ grease deteriorates over time
because of heat exposure.
Here too the outer ones get the most beating because of the heat
generated by the brake disks.
Generally, you should repack the outer (& change the boots) every
60k miles. The inner ones usually last closer to 100k miles.
If however you see pitting and scoring of any of the inner surfaces
you may as well replace them.
NOTE: VW and Loebro sell boot kits, that includes everything you need
for the job (about US$15).
Tip: [First heard from WolfSport, reported by [Borowski]) There are many
times when both wheel drive shafts need to be removed (two torn boots,
etc.) This is a perfect opportunity,to switch the CV joints to the
opposite sides. They will then wearmon different internal surfaces,
extending their life.
Q: What tool should I use to remove my inner CV Joint
(driveshaft-to-drive axle flange) bolts?
A: Most VWs use an 8mm 12 point internal spline, aka cv-joint tool
aka triple square.
Snap On triple-square CV socket, Part number (3/8" drive) = FTSM8C.
Also available from other brands/dealer.
According to Greg Moore: It's also the same fitting as is on
the teardrop-style alloy wheel covers.
Q: How do I know my front wheel bearings are shot?
A: They'll make a roaring "wowowowow" sound, and the noise <NOISE>
may change depending whether you are heading straight or turning.
Special tools are needed to remove the bearing (cost ~150US$)
though the bearings themselves are around 30US$/each.
Certain performance places listed above will sell bearings packed
with synthetic grease (last much longer, racing applications).
BRAKES
======
Q: What brakes do VWs come with?
(Note the dates are +/- 1 yr).
A: Pre-80: Fronts= Teves or Girling discs (early Euro had drums as well)
Rears= drums, non-self adjusting
Post-80: Fronts= Kesley Hayes ("Banana pads"), Girling(?) on Passats
non-vented & vented on high end cars
Rotor diameter increassed over the years.
Rears= self adjusting drums or Teves disc (high end)
General: Later cars have brake propotioning valves, several types used,
some are with the master cylinder (84S) others are
in front of the rear axle beam on the left.
Q: I need to change my brake pads, which should I get?
A: This is a tricky question, and depends on what car you drive
and whether you were happy with what you had.
Normal driving, no problem with fade: Stock VW, or Repco Semi-Metallic.
Others like or prefere Wagner Pads.
Auto-X: Repco Metallic. Be aware that these pads require significant
more pedal pressure, and suck when cold.
Adventages: Fade resistant, less brake dust, no squeel.
Q: Is it easy to change pads/shoes?
A: On most newer VWs, changing front pads is next to trivial.
Rear pads require more work because the piston needs to be screwed in
which is either done with a allen-hex wrench or a special tool.
Rear shoes (drums) are probably the hardest, but still easy enough.
Follow Bentley and/or Muir.
Q: Do I need to turn my rotors each time I change pads?
A: Another religeous issue...
In general: NO, unless your rotors are badly scored. If they are
warped, replace (it's cheap and easy to do). Call places like APS
& WolfSport.
Note: If you take the rotors off your self, turning them at
a machine shop costs very little.
Q: How often should I bleed my brakes and change the fluid?
A: Brake fluid should be changed AT LEAST every two years.
Bleeding should be done yearly and after an Auto-X.
Brake fluid absorbs water which corrodes the lines.
Bleeding regularly will significantly increase safety and life
of your brake components.
DOT 4 fluids have a higher boiling point than DOT 3 fluid but
are also more hydrophilic and therefore must be replaced more
frequently than DOT 3 fluid.
Q: What brake fluid should I use?
A: Check the manual. Most older VWs use DOT-3. The newer ones use
DOT-4 or Super DOT-4 (higher boiling point).
Castrol makes one which is both DOT-3 and 4 compatible with a very
high boiling point.
One of the dealerships here also recommends Wagner as an aftermarket
Dot 4 oil.
The higher the boiling the better: Brake -> heat -> fluid boils
-> bubbles -> loss in brake pressure -> crash.
Q: How do I remove the screw that holds the front rotor in place?
A: If a screwdriver & liquid wrench does not work, try an impact
screwdriver. It's a screwdriver that makes a 1/4 turn when hit by
a hammer.
Tip: When changing the rotors, make sure you put a bundle of anti-seize on
the inside of the new rotors so they do not get stuck to the hub.
Also remove as much rust and gunk so that the rotors seat well.
I had to take mine off the hard way: Heat untill red, cool with cold
water, hammer and use a pry bar.
Also make sure you antiseize the screw that holds the rotor in place.
If the head is messed up you can try reslotting, but chances are
it won't help either.
If the screw head is messed up be extremely careful with those easy-offs/
screw or tap extractors.
When they break, you cannot get them out.
Andy's recommendation is to drill out the screw with the right
diameter drill instead, rethread, and put in a new screw of a larger
diameter.
You don't want to make the hole too big either, though
you could use a thread-locker to come back to the original size.
Note that that screw is not vital! It only holds the rotor temporarily
in place until the wheel bolts torque the rim/rotor/hub sandwich
together.
Q: What and why vented rotors?
A: Braking converts motion into heat. Heat needs to be dissipated.
The faster you can dissipate heat the better you can stop, and
less fade.
Vented rotors essentially have two parallel "discs" with an
airspace in between to increase cooling.
Many of the Kesley-Hayes non-vented front rotors can be replaced
with vented ones and thinner pads without replacing calipers for
a slight gain in braking power.
Q: Why cross drilled rotors?
A: Braking produces gasses, and cross drilling give the gasses a
way to escape, thereby increasing contact pressure.
Personally [Jan] I do not advice cross drilled rotors because
of the increased likelyhood of cracking.
DO NOT CROSS DRILL ROTORS YOURSELF. It's usually done on an
NC machine at calculated positions and possibly followed by
stress relieving.
Q: I hear a "clonk" each time I brake/start? <NOISE>
A: Check whether all the anti-rattle springs are still there (two
per caliper).
Q: How do I prevent my brakes from squeeling? <NOISE>
A: Chances are that you have the original semi-metallic VW brakes pads,
which are notorious for this.
First line of defence is to get that "anti-brake-squeel goo"
(comes in a tube or a spray can) and apply it to the BACKS of
all your pads.
That stuff is essentailly liquid high temp rubber that will
dampen vibrations.
The second line of defence is to change to a different brake pad
brand.
See the Repco_MetalMasters file on this subject.
(In short, do not get Repco MM's unless you want to race,
their Semi-Metallics are closer to stock in brake feel, while someone else
recommends Wagner pads.)
Q: When standing on the brake pedal, my foot slowly sinks to the
floor? What's wrong?
A: You either have a leak or your master cylinder is shot.
Don't bother trying to rebuild the master cylinder, unless
you have access to high presision tools.
Mexican made replacements tend not to last long. Get the german
OEM ones or the VW one (same thing, more $$$$).
Q: Problems with rear drum brake lock up?
A: This can have many causes:
- Out of round drums. Have them turned or replaced (easy, cheap)
- Change shoes
- Out of adjustment or self adjusting mechanism not functioning right
- Handbrake cable out of adjustment
- Proportioning valve out of adjustment or faulty
- Incorrect cylinders installed (17mm vs 14 mm, they look very similar
but make a 40% in brake pressure!)
- Faulty master cylinder.
Q: Is it worth while changing my rear drums to disc brakes?
A: For normal purposes: NO. For racing and other purposes, maybe.
Considering the high cost of this swap and considering that
only 30% of all braking power comes from the rear, it is usually
not worth the effort. Concentrate on the fronts instead.
Q: What grease should I use on the rear axles of my VW.
A: A high quality Lithium based grease with Molibdenum-di-sulfide (MoS2)
(all VW shops have switched to this).
In general you can use "Moly-Slip" grease where you used to use
the old "White Lithium" grease.
MoS2 works a bit like graphite in that it doubles the lubrication
properties of the base grease.
Note: Generally do not mix greases of different base, e.g., an
Aluminum based grease with Lithium base. They may react and loose
lubrication properties.
Note2: CVJoints use a special grease, less viscous grease.
>>>>VOLUNTEERS>>>>?????
Needed: diagnosing problems
steel braided lines
TIRES/RIMS/SUSPENSION
=====================
Q: What are "standard" (factory) tire sizes for my VW?
A: The following tires sizes (see the r.a FAQ for how to read these)
result in equivalent circumferences and standard on most passenger
VWs over the years. The implication of this list is that in principle
(if you have clearance!) you could upgrade your tire/rims by traversing
this list!
The whole aim with changing to different tire sizes is to stay within
a reasonable margin of the original tire diameter.
155/80-13 => Rabbit (1975-1978), Golf Diesel, maybe other A2's
165/70-13 => Rabbit (1979-1984)
175/70-13 => Scirocco, Jetta, Rabbit GTI, optional for Rabbit
Most non-performance A2s, A3 Golf
185/55-15 => GTX (16v Jettas in Canada), 16V GLI
185/60-14 => Golf GTI, Jetta GLI (85-87) Carrat (86-89),
Jetta (90-93), Scirocco 16V, A3 Golf
195/60-14 => Quantum, Passat, A3 Golf
205/55-14 => Golf GTI 16V (1987-1989)
195/50-15 => Golf GTI 16V (1990-), Jetta GLI/GTX 16V, Passat GL (1991-)
195/50-15 => Corrado G60 (1991-1992)
205/50-15 => Passat Syncros G60 (1991 +), Canadian 1991 Passat GL
205/50-15 => All VR6 models; 5-bolt rim
Some non-factory combinations are:
205/60-13
215/45-15
Here's M. Sirota's extensive list of NOMINAL sizes. Actual sizes vary:
Specification Sidewall Radius Diameter Circumference Revs/Mile Difference
155/80-13 124mm 289mm 578mm 1816mm 886 0.0%
165/80-13 132mm 297mm 594mm 1867mm 862 2.8%
175/70-13 122mm 288mm 575mm 1807mm 891 -0.5%
185/60-14 111mm 289mm 578mm 1815mm 887 -0.1%
195/60-14 117mm 295mm 590mm 1852mm 869 2.0%
205/55-14 113mm 291mm 581mm 1826mm 882 0.5%
195/50-15 98mm 288mm 576mm 1810mm 889 -0.4%
205/50-15 102mm 293mm 586mm 1841mm 874 1.3%
185/55-15 102mm 292mm 584mm 1836mm 876 1.1%
Q: Are VW rims interchangable?
A: Most VW rims are interchangable, with the exception of the Corrado
G60 and SLC are minimum 15"; Jetta GLI/GTX 16V (and I think Passat) is
minimum 14", others will take 13". There are five distinct bolt patterns:
5/180mm (?) Early air-cooled
4/130mm Late air-cooled
5/130mm (?) Transporter/Vanagon
4/100mm Water-cooled
4/100mm Water-cooled
5/100mm VR6 models
They will also work on any car with a 4-bolt 100mm hub. These
include Honda (some models), BMW (3-series, 2002....), Omni GLH
Mazda (Miata and possibly others), and any Audi 4-bolts before
they switched to 108mm.
NOTE: Check OFFSET and center opening before attempting swaps!
VW hubs *MUST*BE*HUB-CENTRIC*. This means that the hub opening of
the wheel must fit the wheel hub snugly enough to center the wheel.
THIS IS IMPORTANT!
Note: The center hole of a Honda rim is too small to fit on a VW,
the offset is wrong.
Q: Will wider tires help my performance?
A: There is no straight answer! There are really three
main factors that determine handling (disregarding suspension
changes for now):
1) Frictional coefficient between the tire and the road,
2) Contact patch size and geometry,
3) Tire sidewall stiffness.
If you keep the frictional coefficient constant as well, you have
two parameters to play with: Width and Sidewall stiffness.
Wider tires will change the contact patch from an oval to a more
elongated oval, which generally improves handling, but increases
steering effort, and makes the car more prone to aquaplaning
(hydroplaning) in wet weather and in snow it never gets to throuch the
snow. In snow conditions the best way to go is small rims (13" for A1 &A2)
with a 165-175/70/13 tire on it.>>>ADD MORE PROPERTIES???
However, another, perhaps more important factor is sidewall stiffness.
The stiffer the sidewall, the less the tire will flex sideways which
improves turning, transients, steering accuracy >>>OTHERS?
Therefore going from a 175/70-13 tire to a "plus 1" 185/60-14 or a
"plus 2" 195/50-15 tire will elongate the contact patch, reduce
the sidewall height ==> increase side wall stiffness and therefore
improve handling. However changing from 185/60 to a 195/60
may or may not do much good: The contact patch is more favorable
but the sidewall is also increased in height ==> more flex.
Test by VW and EuroCar have shown that a GTI with 185/60 tires
handles about the same as one with 205/55.
But there is more to it as well!
Tires, even within one type & size, may have different sidewall
stiffness (e.g. HR vs VR), and compound! A softer compound will grip
better, but wear faster..
Wider rims make a big difference due to a better lateral support,
effectively increasing sidewall stiffness.
NEVER use 5.5" on a 185/60 or wider tire; the wider the better,
at least within reason. A 7" rim would probably be ideal for a
195/50R15 tire for the street.
Q: What are the "standard" VW wheel offsets (the amount the rim
is offset from the hub)?
A: Rim Offset [From TomH, unverified but probably correct]
13x5 45 mm
13x5.5 38 mm
14x6 38 mm
15x6 35 mm (BBS 1-piece, # 165 601 026 091)
15x6.5 33 mm (BBS 2-piece)
Q: What is the largest rim/tire sizes that will fit on my VW?
A: It depends from model to model. Also, make sure you get the right
rim offset or your handling will degrade enormously.
Scirocco I: Front: 185 or 195 mm wide depending on model
Rear: 205 mm (?)
Max Rim: 15"x6"
Scirocco II: 205?
Rabbit I: 205/60R13 will fit fine.
Rabbits/Jetta: Usually > Scirocco!
Golf/Jetta II: 215/45R15 fits, at least on a GTI with flared fenders.
15 x 6 & 195/50/15 fit also, =? GTI/GLI
GTI/GLI: 215?
Corrado: Lower rim limit are 15" rims due to brake calipers
Tire limit =? 225
EuroTire sells 15" steel rims for mounting snow tires.
Passat: ?
Remember, offset is very important in determining tire fit!
>>>ADD MORE ENTRIES>>>This needs to be improved [jan]
Q: How do I know whether my shocks are worn out?
A: Shocks either loose their damping capability or freeze up.
The result is that your car may not handle well (or safely).
When you bounce the front of the car, a good set of shocks
will stop the motion in less than one cycle:
Bounce the car couple times, let go, and it should go up
and a small amount down and then STOP.
Just look at your old mechanics/physics books for damped and undamped
impulse responce of a spring and damper combination.
Test for seizing: you press down, and it stays down.
Note that Sport Shocks may be so stiff that it will barely move
when you press down.
Note that this failure mode occurs mostly on A1 cars which
put too much side loads on shocks.
I [Jan] went thru several virtually indestructable Bilstein
sport shocks due to this failure. Hold on that receipt for
life time warrantee!!!!
Also suspect your shock if you hear an excessive amount of
swishing. <NOISE>
That's cavitation (local boiling of oil) which usually accelerates wear.
"Gas" shocks contain a chamber of pressurized gas that keeps the oil
under pressure and prevents cavitation, increasing damping capabilities
and reducing wear.
For the front "shocks" you have two choices for replacement: You
can either buy an entirely new strut (which is the whole assembly, usually
sold in combination with springs) or replace the shock insert
in your existing strut (cheaper, more work). Most of the time
you replace the insert.
The rear shocks are replaced as a whole, and fairly easy to do yourself.
Note that the fronts tend to wear out long before the rears.
Note, if you replace the front shocks you may want to consider
replacing the upper strut bearings.
Q: I want to improve the handling of my VW? Where should I start?
A: Start reading back issues of EuroCar & VW Performance books.
It all depends what you want and for what purpose (street,
auto-x, etc).
Tires & Rims: First, go to a sticky tire in the stock size.
Then, a wider rim. Then, a +1 or +2 (+3?) setup.
Probably the biggest single
improvement you can make. HOWEVER, going from
165/80-13 to 205/50-15 will make an enormous
difference, going from 195/50-15 to 205/50-15
make actually degrade handling (see other FAQ).
Shocks: VW shocks don't last very long. The OEM shocks are from
Sachs or Boge. Stiffer shocks reduce roll, improve handling
but also make the ride harsher. Most competition & longer
lasting shocks are called "gas shocks". A compromise
is to use adjustable shocks. Most popular competition
oriented shock brands are: Koni & Bilstein (debatable
which is better), then Tokico.
From M.Sirota: For non-competition, I'd rank them Bilstein,
Sachs, Boge, Koni, KYB (initial quality problems), Tokico
(harsh).
Sway bars: Reduce side to side roll. Essentially they increase the
spring rate when you roll, but leave the bilateral
compression rates unchanged. Most newer VW have
sway bars already, but aftermarket ones are stiffer
(thicker) and are attached better. I personally prefere
sway bars that mount in almost stock positions
(Neuspeed).
Stress bars: Reduce body flex. A1 VWs are in most need of a lower
front stress, while all A1 & A2 VWs could benefit
from an upper strut tower stress bar.
The rear upper shock tower stress bar is mostly
for *extreme* race purposes.
Springs: Springs don't normally wear out. However, there are
competition oriented springs that usually also lower the car.
**WARNING**: Suspension changes will affect the way your car handles,
especially under emergency manoevres.
Therefore it is highly advised that you familiarize yourself
with your car before you use it in normal traffic conditions.
Taking a performance oriented driving class sponsored
by one of the car clubs is therefore highly advised.
>>>THIS NEEDS TO BE IMPROVED/REWRITTEN A BIT. SUGGESTIONS?
KEEP it to 1 liners.
Q: What is rim offset?
A: The amount the rim sticks out from its mounting surface.
The standard rim offsets are:
14" rims are all 38mm.
>>>ANY REMEMBER THE OTHERS? HOW ABOUT A PICTURE?
Q: How do I know upper strut bearings are worn?
A: Those are the black rubber and brass metal that stick out
of your shock towers.
They fail in two ways:
- Rubber gets stessed out: They'll stick more than ~1.5 cm above the
shock towers
- Metal bushing worn: Steering will feel loose, you may hear
a clonking noise at times. <NOISE>
They are not that expensive (ca 25US$), and easy to do once
you get the strut out of the car.
(Mark Shaw) says something similar:
If I can get the tips of my fingers between the top plate and the
housing with the vehicle standing on a level surface, then the strut
bearing has seen enough abuse.
This was passed on to me by a friend who works at the VW Proving
Grounds south of Phoenix. He also recommends that you use the ones
with the "A" suffix on the part number ([jan] note many aftermarket
places sell heavy duty versions of these, probably those with an "A")
I do not change them unless the strut cartridges are also weak.
Experience has shown me that in all cases strut bearings should be
replaced when the struts cartridges are replaced.
Note also that (Norm Heckman): A drop of 3/4" was given as a
limit for auto safety inspection rejection in N.Y. state. (drop =
after you jack up the car).
BODY/INTERIOR
=============
Q: My door sags, how can I straighten it?
A: [From an old WolfSport catalog:] Place a 15 mm socket between the arm
and foot of the lower hinge (to the outside of the hinge anchor bolt).
You'll have to almost close the door to get & keep it in place.
Now gently! exert some force on the door & the check alignment.
[From Jim Macklow] I've had success with my wife's Rabbit by doing
the following: Open door, then jack up door with floor jack,
making sure the door is closed as far as possible.
Q: How do I eliminate all the rattles, squeeks and buzzes in my car? <NOISE>
A: VWs are unfortunately well known for this. Part of the cause is
the rather stiff suspension and hard motor mounts that just
rattles the car appart.
Often the fix is easy once you find the cause.
The following are a few tricks that I have used over the year
that will help eliminate a good deal of them.
Tip: Start with cleaning the inside and outside of the car, and remove
all the coins and pens stuck in the seat rails. Then take a screw/nut
driver and fasten all accessible interior screws and bolts.
If a particular screw/bolt loosens frequently, use LocTite (tm).
The bolt that holds the seat back adjustment knob is notorious
for loosening and rattling.
Have someone drive around while you go around and isolate where all
the noise comes from.
Another weird one that helps with some rattles and groans is to
install a lower stress bar on A-1 cars that do not have one, and
apparently an upper shock tower stress bar on all others
(haven't tried this yet, but Aaron @ APS claims that it helps
surprisingly well).
Q: Something in my dash rattles? <NOISE>
A: That's probably the most common and most annoying place for it to
happen. VWs have actually improved over the years and so we can learn
from their attempts to reduce rattles. Most of the rattles are caused
by loose wires and components touching the vent tubes or other solid
material. VW often uses electric tape to hold things together, but
over time the tape loosens and falls off. What you need to do is
get a bunch of tie wraps, bundle everything back, get some "nerf foam"
or sheets of black felt and position it between the wires, vents and other
stuff. Using felt or foam between interior vinyl covered body panels
also helps eliminate alot of squeeks there.
(Note that Corrados now have strips of black felt glued to the back of
virtually all plastic panels).
Another type of dash squeek is caused by plastic components rubbing
against each other. Usually a dose of ClearGuard will help eliminate that
but if you have the space try glueing some felt between the two.
A tip from (Tim Hogard): Tighten the the two nuts that hold the dash in
that are on the engine side of the firewall.
Q: My doors/hatch/vinyl squeek over bumpy roads, especially when cold? <NOISE>
A: "Lubricate" the door seals with Talcum powder or ClearGuard.
"Lubricate" the rest with ClearGuard or Silicone spray.
You may also want to adjust the doors so they close better
by first loosening the strike pin and moving it either in or out.
The rear hatch lock can also be moved a bit, but it's easier to
adjust those black knobs on either side of the hatch. They screw in
and out.
Q: My suspension groans when I go over a speed bump/other bumps? <NOISE>
A: Check for squeeky muffler hangers, and sway bar bushing!
If the sway bar bushing noise is not eliminated with some Si Spray
(especially the poly-urethane variety) then take them appart and
relube with a good grease (MoS2. Haven't tried "marine grease" as yet
but thinking about it). The same is true for other rubber based
suspension components (e.g., A-arm bushings).
Q: Something in my door rattles? <NOISE>
A: First make sure it's not a screw which is loose (lots hidden away).
If that's not the case then take the door panel off and check all the
screws inside. Tighten, use LocTite, possibly use foam and felt
to prevent components from banging against each other.
Some recommend installing a sound deadening material such as
Dynamat (tm).
Before putting the door panel back, you may want to use some
foam strips (like the window air seals) to provide some spacing for
the snaps.
While you are at it, clean the drain holes and lube the lock & window
mechanism.
Q: How should I take care of my car's exterior? What products to use?
A: Wash on a regular basis. Fisrt, hose down car, don't aim to locks,
gas cap, etc. Also hose down the radiator & underside of the car.
Use one of the available car wash products in a bucket & sponge down
car. (All this to be done in the shade).
Rinse sponge often to avoid scratching the paint. Generally work
from cleanest areas (roof) to dirtiest (front sides) of car.
Keep car wet (on a dry day in CA, the car dries almost instantly
leaving water marks).
Hose down soap, and with a fresh bucket of water and a shamois
or a synthetic shamois, dry car.
Again, rince the rag as often as you can.
Wax at least twice a year, with a good brand of wax. Wax only
after the car has been thouroughly washed.
Follow the directions of the product and either use clean rags
or cotton wool to apply wax.
Why wax? It puts a protective layer over your paint, and replenishes
lost oils.
Hard waxes (e.g., Carnuba based waxes) tend to last longer but
require alot of work.
See what the local body shop uses (the one I visit use Meguire's
profesional line of products, but it's by no means the only wax.
The ultimate is Zymol, 800-999-5563, but it costs alot!)
Wax horizontal surfaces more frequently (hood, roof).
If rain does not bead up and slide off the car, it's time to rewax.
Polish your car sparingly, e.g., if you want to get rid of swirls,
scratches or an oxydized layer of paint.
Polishes contain fine grit and therefore ares rather abrasive.
You can get polishes with different grades of grit, e.g.,
see Meguire's line of polishers: swirl remover, deep cut cleaner, etc.
The coarsest version of a polish is a rubbing compound.
It will not leave a shine, and works just like a piece of sand paper.
It is mainly used to even out portions that were repainted.
Note that many "waxes" contain both detergents and polishing compounds.
Some work quite well (e.g., DuPont's Rain Dance) but some find it
too abrasive for frequent use. That's why it's better to use non-
abrasive waxes, and only polish when you need it.
Glazing compounds are a bit like wax: they replenish lost chemicals
in the paint, but the protective layer they provide does not last
very long (e.g., Meguire Show Car Glaze).
For a deep shine I often first use a glaze then a carnuba wax.
I have tried some of the supposed once a year hi-tech "coverings"
but was rather underwhelmed by the result.
To get the wax off the black trim, use some detergent or Simple Green
& a toothbrush.
Then apply something like Armor All or Clear Guard. I believe
the latter is the current favorite.
Don't hesitate to use this stuff on all rubber components.
It'll slow the ageing process a bit.
To get the rims clean is a different matter, especially the alloy rims.
VW's product is supposedly quite good, I would avoid most others
as they contain extremely caustic (i.e., HF) acids.
I haven't found the "best" formula as yet...I use Simple Green,
dishwashing detergent and some polishing compond.
To make your life easier, wax your rims. It'll also reduce pitting
(which is caused by a galvanic action between the hot brake metal
particles and your alloy). BTW, BBS rims are nice but a shore to clean.
On the tires use Armor All or Clear Guard. You can also buy
stuff in cans (Tire Shine), but I find it hard not to overspray all
over the place (& that stuff leaves marks on the floor).
To get windows real clean, wash with a strong detergent, perhaps
followed by some alcohol. Then use Windex or similar product and
dry most with rag/shamy and follow with a piece of newspaper paper.
Works amazingly well.
A product like Rain-X also cleans the windows real well as a side
effect. Some have complained that Rain-X leaves a hazy film
(can be buffed out with a *very* clean rag).
Rain-X ("invisible windshieldwipers") work quite well on some windshields
but only last a couple 1000 kms.
MISCELLANEA
===========
Q: When my Corrado spoiler retracts, it squeeks. What do I do? <NOISE>
A: "Lubricate" it with Talcum powder.
Note that baby powder used to be talcum, but because of the
naturally occuring asbestos with talcum (I know, we are all doomed),
baby powder sometimes contains corn starch instead.
Note: Silicon lubricant dries out rubber and is not recommended.
A second way is to use "Clear Guard" (it's like Armour All but
is oilier). Lasts longer than Talcum. On second hand, don't use this!
Q: Are those ventilation filters sold by APS any good?
A: They are pure CRAP!!! They are too restrictive according to Roc Goolen.
[If you really want to filter your air, go
to a hardware store, buy a furnace filter for a couple $$ and rig it
up somehow. Jan]
>>>> SUGGESTIONS/COMMENTS/CORRECTIONS? send e-mail to above address
Contributors (not exhaustive):
------------------------------
Note: Quoted contributions implie possible conflicting pieces of advise
with other contributors.
jmm...@zeus.tamu.edu (Jeffrey M. Mayzurk)
ma...@wdcwdc.sps.mot.com (Mark Shaw)
dil...@techops.cray.com (Robert J. Dilmore)
tgpt...@uhura.cc.rochester.edu (Tom Guptill)
rgo...@UMASSD.EDU (Ric Golen)
c...@sei.cmu.edu (Craig Gary)
boro...@hpspkla.spk.hp.com (Don T. Borowski)
to...@wes.on.ca (\tom haapanen)
te...@kingcong.uwaterloo.ca (Prateek Dwivedi)
gaje...@ug.cs.dal.ca (ANdy)
er...@quantum.qnx.com (Eric Johnson)
da...@danix.uucp (Dan Simoes)
dil...@techops.cray.com (Robert J. Dilmore)
ted...@garnet.berkeley.edu (Ted Crum)
craw...@fido.econ.arizona.edu (David Crawford)
msi...@ee.rochester.edu (Mark Sirota)
b...@cellar.org (Dan Reed)
sco...@pangea.Stanford.EDU (Scott Zeller)
chri...@wucs1.wustl.edu (Christos Papadopoulos)
ne...@anchor.cs.colorado.edu (NEVES RICHARD K)
rka...@unixd.cis.pitt.edu (Rajiv K. Agrawala)
wolf...@cse.fau.edu (Dan)
boro...@hpspkla.spk.hp.com (Don T. Borowski)
jjma...@infonode.ingr.com (Jim Macklow)
i...@lcs.mit.edu (Lee Hetherington)
ke...@ns1.cc.lehigh.edu (KIRBY ERLANDSEN)
mhem...@tsegw.tse.com (Mattias Hembruch)
pto...@ursa.calvin.edu (Peter Tong)
mor...@quack.kfu.com (Brent Morton)
ch...@seattleu.edu (Anthony)
g...@macsch.com (Greg Moore)
tho...@wrdis01.robins.af.mil (Cont Tim Hogard)
mshe...@math.ucla.edu (Michael Shearer)
squ...@vccnw04.its.rpi.edu (Craig L. Squier)
--------------------------------------------------------------------
Disclaimer: My employer has nothing to do with this.
Use any info in this posting at your OWN risk.
This is public information and should not be dissiminated
for profit.
--
Jan Vandenbrande
j...@ug.eds.com (New address)
j...@lipari.usc.edu (school address, forwards)
UUCP: {uunet, uupsi}!ug!jan