1990 Thunderbird SC won't start
Jay
I have a 90 Thunderbird SC. This morning on my way to work I stopped
at a light and when the light turned green my car accelerated for
about 3 seconds then slowly lost power, and the engine stopped.
I pulled into a parking lot and made sure I all other power to my car,
which I did. (A short history lesson). In the last two months I've
noticed my car taking longer to start, it cranks fine, but takes
longer to catch and start. About 2 weeks ago my car would start but
would idle very low and cut off. I started the car then held the gas
down for a bit (approx. 2000 rpm and released and it still wouldn't
stay started.) I let it sit for about 10 minutes without trying to
start it and like magic the car started and ran fine.
Back to this morning. After the car stalled. I tried to start it
again and it cranks fine, it just won't turn over. I let the car sit
for about 15 minutes and tried to start it and it cranked and turned
over for about 3 seconds, (idled low) and died again.
Any suggestions on what the problem could be?
Thanks
Eric F
"Jay" <darrick....@infrasourceinc.com> wrote in message
news:515d8224.02022...@posting.google.com...
bobby
able to check pressure on the fuel rail somewhere. Fuel filter would cause
some of the symptoms but I'd doubt that could be the problem and it ran ok for
a while 2 weeks ago. A bad connection to the fuel pump could cause that or
maybe just a failing fuel pump.
Second would be plugged exhaust but it shouldn't have run fine 2 weeks ago,
even for a little while. If it starts again, make sure there is exhaust
flowing out the pipe. It would have to be very plugged up to give the symptoms
you describe but it is easy to give a quick check .
3rd guess is ignition module. I know during the late 80's and I think into the
early 90's, the Ford ignitions modules failed quite often. The two I
personally saw fail didn't get weak though. The either worked or didn't.
good luck.. Those were nice cars.
Jay
module AND the cam sensor had to be replaced because I wasn't getting
any spark. But to top it off he says even when he replaces that it's
no garuantee that it would turn over. Gotta love the 3.8 SC huh!!
bobby <bbuss...@i.hate.spam.hotmail.com> wrote in message news:<3C7698D6...@i.hate.spam.hotmail.com>...
Kruse
darrick....@infrasourceinc.com says...
>
>Here's what I was told by the mechanic. He told me the distributor
>module AND the cam sensor had to be replaced because I wasn't getting
>any spark. But to top it off he says even when he replaces that it's
>no garuantee that it would turn over. Gotta love the 3.8 SC huh!!
>
>
working on the car. But I've got an '88 Cougar that I bought new and was
always careful never to have the tank drop below the quarter mark. Also,
my nephew has an '89 Cougar. I've had to put fuel pumps in both of these
cars. Now maybe the '90 SC uses a completely different setup, but after
my experiences, I'd be very leery of the fuel pump even after the ignition
is fixed.
Remove (*) to email.
spam...@spamstop.net
(Jay) wrote:
>Here's what I was told by the mechanic. He told me the distributor
>module AND the cam sensor had to be replaced because I wasn't getting
>any spark. But to top it off he says even when he replaces that it's
>no garuantee that it would turn over. Gotta love the 3.8 SC huh!!
Don't blame the SC.
SC's DON'T HAVE a distributor module! They have DISTRIBUTORLESS
IGNITION!
ALSO the cam sensor is only used to sequence the spark and fuel. If
it fails you still have spark
Find an new mechanic.
Jeff McDonald
if it ran fine with your foot on the gas, except for not finding an idle.
Jeff
Jay wrote in message <515d8224.02022...@posting.google.com>...
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Jay
still wont turn over. He then told me to call Ford because my crank
pulley wasn't seating in the cam sensor correctly. I'm saying to
myself WTF!!! I don't know much about cars at all, so bare with me.
I asked if you know what you think is wrong how come you're not trying
to fix it. He had no answer.
I then towed it to another shop and the mechanic told me that he test
the compression in the one cylinder that he could get to and it test
at 120 when it should be up around 200, he then proceeded to tell me
that he thought my super charger was blown, but he couldn't tell me
what was the exact problem because he doesn't work on SC's. I again
was like WTF??? But doesn't incorrect timing affect compression?
Is there anyone who knows anything? I figure, how could my engine be
shot if it cranks? And also the first mechanic said he had it started
for about 30 secs then it cut back off.
HELP.. I LOVE MY CAR and REALLY DON'T WANT TO JUNK IT? anyone have
any idea how much a rebuild or new engine might cost?
Thanks a bunch guys!!
"Jeff McDonald" <elje...@pivotnospam.net> wrote in message news:<3c7a8...@corp.newsgroups.com>...
spam...@spamstop.net
(Jay) wrote:
>I did take it from that mechanic and he now says I have a spark but it
>still wont turn over. He then told me to call Ford because my crank
>pulley wasn't seating in the cam sensor correctly. I'm saying to
>myself WTF!!! I don't know much about cars at all, so bare with me.
>I asked if you know what you think is wrong how come you're not trying
>to fix it. He had no answer.
Say what???
The crank pulley isn't seating in the cam sensor?
The crank pulley is on the bottom front of the engine. The cam sensor
is on the TOP of the engine. They aren't even close to each other.
>
>I then towed it to another shop and the mechanic told me that he test
>the compression in the one cylinder that he could get to and it test
>at 120 when it should be up around 200, he then proceeded to tell me
The most important thing about compression is how even it is cylinder
to cylinder. If all cylinders were at 120, the engine would run
smooth (just with less power).
>that he thought my super charger was blown, but he couldn't tell me
How did he come to that conclusion? The compression test? The
compression test DOES NOT test the supercharger - only the base
engine.
>what was the exact problem because he doesn't work on SC's. I again
>was like WTF??? But doesn't incorrect timing affect compression?
>
>Is there anyone who knows anything? I figure, how could my engine be
>shot if it cranks? And also the first mechanic said he had it started
>for about 30 secs then it cut back off.
>
>HELP.. I LOVE MY CAR and REALLY DON'T WANT TO JUNK IT? anyone have
>any idea how much a rebuild or new engine might cost?
>
>Thanks a bunch guys!!
SC's are nice cars. I have one. Most common work can be done on them
by anyone. But engine work on an SC is best left to the dealer (as
you can see).
Steve B.
(Jay) wrote:
>I then towed it to another shop and the mechanic told me that he test
>the compression in the one cylinder that he could get to and it test
>at 120 when it should be up around 200, he then proceeded to tell me
>that he thought my super charger was blown, but he couldn't tell me
>what was the exact problem because he doesn't work on SC's. I again
>was like WTF??? But doesn't incorrect timing affect compression?
I hate to say it, but you had it towed to another moron. A
compression test is only useful if you have the info on all the
cylinders. There is no way you could tell anything about the
condition of the super charger from a compression test at cranking
speed.
At this point I would bite the bullet and drag the car to the dealer.
Have it fixed and start looking for a decent independent mechanic for
next time.
Steve B.
keller...@gmail.com
Paul in Houston TX
> On Friday, February 22, 2002 at 10:36:42 AM UTC-6, Jay wrote:
>> Hi,
>>
>> I have a 90 Thunderbird SC. This morning on my way to work I stopped at a light and
>> when the light turned green my car accelerated for about 3 seconds then slowly lost
>> power, and the engine stopped.
>>
>>
>> Thanks
>
> It could be the fuel pump, no fuel pressure, fuel filter clogged, or you may need to
> replace the fuel injectors.