Ford F150 Tempeartuer Gauge won't work
GWK
My temperature gauge on the dash has been stuck on COLD for about a year.
The heater produces hot air no problem. I changed the thermostat anyway,
but it didn't make any difference. So when my mechanic was doing some other
work on the engine, I asked him to change the temperature sending unit and
check the wires for damage while he had the truck on the lift.. He changed
the temp sending unit and he said the wires looked OK visibly. However the
needle still is stuck on COLD no matter how long I drive it. The engine runs
fine, and there is no evidence of overheating. I would just like to get the
temp gauge to work, so I can monitor things better on this old truck.
I am wondering if there is any electrical connection in the steering column
(clockspring or ignition switch) that could be broken, and cause the temp
gauge needle to malfunction. The reason that I say this, is because there
seems to be a lot of "up and down" play in the steering wheel.
Any insight into what would be a likely cause?
Thanks,
Gary
Comboverfish
The easiest test would be to locate the temp sender wire and ground it
with the key on. Now look at the temp gauge -- if the wire and gauge
are OK, the gauge will be pegged on "hot". If it still doesn't move
off of "cold", then troubleshoot the wire from the sender to the
instrument cluster harness. If that is OK, test the back side of the
temp gauge -- be sure that one of its terminals has B+ with all
connectors attached and key on.
The only things that excess steering column play could affect in this
circuit would be pinching a wire in the column harness or rubbing a
wire bare near the shift lever assembly or exposed section of steering
shaft areas -- which would have to blow a fuse that is common to the
temp gauge power supply. Usually other nearby gauges would suffer if
this happened. The actual temp wire is nowhere near the pivot point
of the steering column.
As an aside, If the pivot pins or housing is cracked in your tilt
steering column mechanism, you should get that fixed post haste. It's
an unsettling feeling to be driving down the road and have your
steering wheel come apart. BTDT once during a test drive on a ratted
out sedan. Not fun...
Toyota MDT in MO
Steve W.
More likely is that the gauge burnt out. Personally I would replace the
temp and the oil pressure gauges with aftermarket anyway. The Temp gauge
is actually a gauge BUT the oil pressure gauge isn't. It is a glorified
idiot light. Ford put a resistor across the gauge so it reads a constant
pressure. It is possible to convert it to a true gauge though, you
replace the sender with a gauge sender and remove the resister.
--
Steve W.
Near Cooperstown, New York
Nate Nagel
is this also true of a '93? Do you have more info. on how to do this?
(i.e. use a Stewart Warner sender, or one from an earlier year Ford, or
other...?)
thanks,
nate
--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel
Steve W.
From what I have seen and read it covers years 1987 through at least
2000 and involves most of the domestic Ford vehicles both cars and
trucks up to the F-350 and includes diesels. The "sending unit" is a
switch that just makes the "gauge" pop up to a reading somewhere in the
normal area on the dial as soon as the oil pump generates at least 3-5
pound of pressure. 97 and up started using a chip with the resistor in
it to operate the gauge. The only way around that one is to replace the
gauge with a true mechanical.
For a new sender these are parts that will work with the current wiring.
Auto Tune: PT3077B
Standard Motor Products: PS-60
Echlin: OP6091
Motorcraft: SW-1547-B, or E4ZZ-9278-A
You still need to find the 20 ohm resistor which can be in the sender,
inline from the sender OR behind the gauge cluster or in the case of
vehicles from late 96 through 2000 it is IN the chip on the cluster. The
only way out on those later vehicles is to replace the gauge itself.
More info http://www.asashop.org/autoinc/march98/techtips.htm
And from the f150 forum
The oil gauge on the Explorer isn't. Simply put, the indicator on the
dash looks like a gauge, but it is really only a binary indication as to
whether the pressure sensor believes that the engine has sufficient oil
pressure or not. If it thinks there is sufficient pressure, then the
gauge reads in the "Normal" zone, usually pointing to a single place
(without varying based on temperature, RPMs, etc.). If there is not
sufficient pressure, then the gauge reads "low." The first item below
describes how to convert the "indicator" back into a gauge. Discussion
on this topic follows:
I went ahead and installed the transducer today. It was a universal 1/4
pipe threaded sender with the "slip over threaded rod" style of
electrical connection to the top. Plenty of room for the tee, original
switch, and the new transducer. I removed the switch from the 45 degree
long- shafted adapter. Used the end of the tee (not the center port) to
the adapter, mounted the transducer upward and the switch outward
(center port of tee). Was able to plug the original connector into the
new transducer.
The gauge read just left of the N in Normal prior to disabling the 20
ohm resistor on the dash cluster. After shorting out the resistor, the
gauge needle points to the A in Normal at 2000 rpm and around the O in
Normal at a warm idle in gear. The needle is heavily dampened (so to
react to changes) but is still a worthwhile modification.
I would say that the dash cluster removal is rather involved and not for
the faint of heart. In fact, living without the resistor modification is
really acceptable when you consider the gauge is dampened. If my wife
would allow it, in retrospect, I'd have just done the tee and added the
chime to the factory gauge but installed a real 270 degree mechanical
gauge. And not touch the dash.
And now! What the manual says about the OIL PRESSURE GAUGE!
"When the engine oil pressure is normal, the oil pressure switch is
closed (short circuit), allowing current flow through the 20-ohm
resistor on the cluster flexible circuit into the gauge which drives the
pointer to a position slightly above midscale. The switch opens (open
circuit) when oil pressure drops to a critically low level (4.5 - 7.5
psi) causing movement of the pointer to or below the "L" band."
"NOTE: The pointer of the magnetic gauge will remain in it's last
position when the ignition is turned off. It will move to the correct
(or actual) indication whenever the ignition is turned back on."
Nate Nagel
Cool, thanks. I'll probably be acquiring one as soon as I have time to
take a day off and go to the DMV, and this is one of the first mods I'd
want to do (I like gauges)
GWK
"Comboverfish" <combov...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1181839756.7...@j4g2000prf.googlegroups.com...
Thanks for advice. Is there an easy way to access the back side of the
temp qauge on a 1995 F150 4.9L?
Gary
Comboverfish
> "Comboverfish" <comboverf...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
Typically you remove the finish panel around the intrument cluster,
then remove the screws holding the cluster in place. Now look at the
back side of the cluster for screws or studs coming out directly
behind the area of the temp gauge. *If* the gauge is mounted this
way, then it is highly likely that those screws or studs serve double
duty as electrical connections. If you don't see this arrangement,
start carefully dismantling the cluster until you can locate the
attaching screws for the gauge. Take pictures along the way, be neat
and careful.
Toyota MDT in MO
GWK
"Comboverfish" <combov...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1181839756.7...@j4g2000prf.googlegroups.com...
I haven't been able to locate the temp sender wire or temp sender, although
my mechanic
did replace the temp sender. I was able to pull the instrument panel and
find some temp gauge
contacts directly behind where the temperature gauge is. They are labelled
IGN, SIG, and GND.
With the key turned to RUN, I get these voltage readings:
IGN to GND - 11.4 Volts
SIG to GND - 5.0 Volts
Gary
GWK
"GWK" <gkau...@spamptd.net> wrote in message
news:JdWdnRicFoRmNOvb...@ptd.net...
COLD to HOT. So, I guess the temp gauge isn't broken. Maybe the wire from
the temp sending unit to the temp gauge is bad.
Gary
Comboverfish
> "GWK" <gkauc...@spamptd.net> wrote in message
>
> news:JdWdnRicFoRmNOvb...@ptd.net...
>
>
>
>
>
> > "Comboverfish" <comboverf...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
circuit sheet has etched into it near one of the temp gauge
terminals? --Or -- is it the harness connector right at the temp
sender? If "SIG" is on the circuit sheet, then the gauge seems to
react properly. You would need to test the wire after that result.
If "SIG" means the latter, then the wire appears to work as well as
the gauge does. Of course, this full grounding test just roughly
passes both the gauge and wire; it is not a 100% guarantee that the
wire and gauge are in total working order. It doesn't, for example,
tell you that the gauge is capable of reporting various resistance
loads correctly, nor does it tell you if the wiring is hanging on by
just one strand.
Toyota MDT in MO
GWK
"SIG" is what is etched into the circuit sheet next to one of the
temp gauge terminals. There are no visible wires on any of the 3
terminals, so I assume the circuit sheet connects to them internally.
Temp Gauge stays pegged on COLD under all running conditions,
regardless of coolant temp. I try to find temp sender wire and check
that first.
Thanks,
Gary
N8N
> Steve W. wrote:
> > Nate Nagel wrote:
>
> >> Steve W. wrote:
>
> >>> GWK wrote:
>
> >>>> 1995 FordF1506 cylinder 4.9L
>
> >>>> year.
> >>>> The heater produces hot air no problem. I changed the thermostat
> >>>> anyway,
> >>>> but it didn't make any difference. So when my mechanic was doing
> >>>> some other
> >>>> work on the engine, I asked him to change the temperature sending
> >>>> unit and
> >>>> check the wires for damage while he had the truck on the lift.. He
> >>>> changed
> >>>> the temp sending unit and he said the wires looked OK visibly.
> >>>> However the
> >>>> needle still is stuck on COLD no matter how long I drive it. The
> >>>> engine runs
> >>>> fine, and there is no evidence of overheating. I would just like to
> >>>> get the
>
> >>>> I am wondering if there is any electrical connection in the steering
> >>>> column
> >>>> (clockspring or ignition switch) that could be broken, and cause the
> >>>> temp
> >>>> there
> >>>> seems to be a lot of "up and down" play in the steering wheel.
>
> >>>> Any insight into what would be a likely cause?
>
> >>>> Thanks,
>
> >>>> Gary
>
> >>> the temp and theoilpressuregauges with aftermarket anyway. The
> >>> is a glorified idiot light. Ford put a resistor across thegaugeso
> >>>gaugethough, you replace the sender with agaugesender and remove
> >>> the resister.
>
> >> is this also true of a '93? Do you have more info. on how to do this?
> >> (i.e. use a Stewart Warner sender, or one from an earlier year Ford,
> >> or other...?)
>
> >> thanks,
>
> >> nate
>
> > From what I have seen and read it covers years 1987 through at least
> > 2000 and involves most of the domestic Ford vehicles both cars and
> > trucks up to the F-350 and includes diesels. The "sending unit" is a
> > switch that just makes the "gauge" pop up to a reading somewhere in the
> > pound ofpressure. 97 and up started using a chip with the resistor in
> > it to operate thegauge. The only way around that one is to replace the
> >gaugewith a true mechanical.
>
> > For a new sender these are parts that will work with the current wiring.
> > Auto Tune: PT3077B
> > Standard Motor Products: PS-60
> > Echlin: OP6091
> > Motorcraft: SW-1547-B, or E4ZZ-9278-A
>
> > You still need to find the 20 ohm resistor which can be in the sender,
> > vehicles from late 96 through 2000 it is IN the chip on the cluster. The
> > only way out on those later vehicles is to replace thegaugeitself.
>
> > More info http://www.asashop.org/autoinc/march98/techtips.htm
>
> > And from thef150forum
>
> > dash looks like agauge, but it is really only a binary indication as to
> > whether thepressuresensor believes that the engine has sufficientoil
> >pressureor not. If it thinks there is sufficientpressure, then the
> >gaugereads in the "Normal" zone, usually pointing to a single place
> > (without varying based on temperature, RPMs, etc.). If there is not
> > describes how to convert the "indicator" back into agauge. Discussion
> > on this topic follows:
>
> > I went ahead and installed the transducer today. It was a universal 1/4
> > pipe threaded sender with the "slip over threaded rod" style of
> > electrical connection to the top. Plenty of room for the tee, original
> > switch, and the new transducer. I removed the switch from the 45 degree
> > long- shafted adapter. Used the end of the tee (not the center port) to
> > the adapter, mounted the transducer upward and the switch outward
> > (center port of tee). Was able to plug the original connector into the
> > new transducer.
>
> > ohm resistor on the dash cluster. After shorting out the resistor, the
> > Normal at a warm idle in gear. The needle is heavily dampened (so to
> > react to changes) but is still a worthwhile modification.
>
> > I would say that the dash cluster removal is rather involved and not for
> > the faint of heart. In fact, living without the resistor modification is
> > would allow it, in retrospect, I'd have just done the tee and added the
> >gauge. And not touch the dash.
>
> > And now! What the manual says about theOILPRESSUREGAUGE!
>
> > closed (short circuit), allowing current flow through the 20-ohm
> > pointer to a position slightly above midscale. The switch opens (open
> > psi) causing movement of the pointer to or below the "L" band."
>
> > position when the ignition is turned off. It will move to the correct
> > (or actual) indication whenever the ignition is turned back on."
>
> Cool, thanks. I'll probably be acquiring one as soon as I have time to
> take a day off and go to the DMV, and this is one of the first mods I'd
> want to do (I like gauges)
>
> nate
>
> --
>
> - Show quoted text -
Just wanted to say thank you again; I bought the truck last night and
am going to try to do this mod at the first opportunity.
nate
GWK
My mechanic checked it out. The wire from the temp sender unit had
deteriorated. He replaced it, and now the gauge works.
Thanks,
Gary
