My wife and I just got hitched and I've now inherited the
responsibility of maintaining her little 2002 Toyota Rav4... her pride
and joy. I've been taking it in for its regular oil changes for a while
now and decided to check on the transmission fluid the other day...
turns out it's never been changed. Ever.
The car now has over 120K miles and has no super-major transmission
concerns "yet," but the tranny fluid is, of course, about as black as
it gets. I was about to have the fluid and filter changed out but the
mechanic said that once it gets that dark it's better to leave it in
and start saving for a new tranny. He explained that the sediment in
the fluid, if drained, would settle into the transmission's inner parts
and more than likely ruin it right away.
Does anyone have any experience with something like this? Is it
possible to save this tranny? Is this an exaggeration?
Thanks in advance for your help and shared knowledge! :smokin:
--
decoyfred
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"Black" tranny fluid is not a good sign. Lots of people, however,
don't give transmission service a second thought until it is late in
the game.
We've heard the story that, in transmission like this, it may be
inadvisable to service the tranny at this stage. The claim is that
sludge and varnish are the only reasons your tranny continues
to work and if you clean it up, it may fail. (Whether true or not....)
The previous mechanic's story is, however, a little lacking in credibility:
If the fluid is black, you are already circulating crap through the
innards. If you drop the pan and clean it out, you will not stir up
any new 'sludge'.
In my estimation, you are already driving with a ticking time bomb.
It WILL fail, sooner or later. I would prefer that my car fail at home
than on the road, but I never let my cars go so long without service.
If it were mine, I would be sure I had money reserved for a rebuild,
and would change the fluid. It is your choice, and your gamble.
Nobody can tell you, for sure, what is going to happen.
Otherwise I have seen a bunch of really black fluid come out of a lot of
old vehicles without them failing soon after. Lots actually.... I have
even seen what looked like diarrhea come out of a couple Jeep CJ ones
that got filled with muddy water and they still ran after too.
However, I also hear of a lot that go to quick lubs and get told what
you are told and do it with 'them' anyway. Those ones for some strange
reason all seem 'to' fail....
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
If changing the fluid causes the transmission to fail, it was bound to leave
you stranded sometime soon anyhow.
I would have the pan dropped and cleaned out, filter changed, and
transmission fluid flushed.
A transmission shop would be better than a lube place to take care of this,
but I'd call both and compare pricing. I'd let a lube shop do a transmission
flush as long as I could watch the whole proceedure... It's actually pretty
simple to do.
Before doing anything, I'd check the owners manual to see if your vehicle
needs any special type of ATF fluid.
> I have been to one of those quick lube places before.I will never go to
> one of them ever again.One hot afternoon,I didn't feel like changing the
> oil and oil filter and lubebing all of the alemites,(1978 Dodge van)
Nobody has had Alemite fittings since about 1930. You had Zerk fittings, or
blank plugs in place of them.
--
Tegger
Anyone have any particular transmission shop in South Fla. they'd
recommend?
I think there's probably no sense in perpetuating the neglect. A good
transmission shop might have that magic touch our little car needs.
Thanks once more!
A Zerk fitting is not the same as an Alemite fitting.
I can't find my October/03 issue of "Skinned Knuckles" magazine. This issue
had an article on the three common sorts of grease fittings used on cars
through the ages. And that's the ONLY issue I can't find!
The magazine article had sketches of the three types of fittings side by
side.
As I remember, an Alemite fitting was straight, not "belled" the way a Zerk
is, and it had two pins extending radially from its diameter. These pins
engaged the grease gun, much as the pins on an 1157 light bulb engage its
socket.
Zerk and Alemite may be the same company now, but the fittings known by
those names are not the same.
--
Tegger
> Hey all,
>
> My wife and I just got hitched and I've now inherited the
> responsibility of maintaining her little 2002 Toyota Rav4... her pride
> and joy. I've been taking it in for its regular oil changes for a while
> now and decided to check on the transmission fluid the other day...
> turns out it's never been changed. Ever.
>
> The car now has over 120K miles and has no super-major transmission
> concerns "yet," but the tranny fluid is, of course, about as black as
> it gets.
120k miles shouldn't cause auto transmission fluid to be "black" in ANY
vehicle. Back in the days of American 3-speed automatics, you could run
them over 200k on the factory fluid with no damage. Its true that modern
4- 5- and 6-speed transmissions are far more fragile and should have
more frequent fluid changes, but 120k really isn't excessive since most
manufacturers still only recommend 60k intervals even for severe usage.
My guess is that the transmission has been slipping and has burned the
fluid due to a mechanical problem. When you say "no super-major
transmission concerns" it leads me to think there is SOME transmission
behavior that you're noticing is "not right." Sorry to say, its PROBABLY
dead. But not necessarily...
I was about to have the fluid and filter changed out but the
> mechanic said that once it gets that dark it's better to leave it in
> and start saving for a new tranny.
I do NOT agree with that philosophy at all. Yes, there are conditions
where doing a fluid change will cause a transmission that is marginal to
start slipping- but IF a fluid change does that, the transmission was
NOT SAFE to continue driving anyhow. Change the fluid and filter- if the
transmission works it will work a lot longer than it would have with
burned up fluid. If it quits, then it was about to strand you somewhere
anyhow.
Oh, and BE SURE to use only the factory recommended fluid type.
>
> Otherwise I have seen a bunch of really black fluid come out of a lot of
> old vehicles without them failing soon after. Lots actually.... I have
> even seen what looked like diarrhea come out of a couple Jeep CJ ones
> that got filled with muddy water and they still ran after too.
>
Yeah, Mike, but you're talking about Chrysler Torqueflights or GM
Hydramatics in old Jeep CJs. They'll run on horse pee for fluid! A
fragile, lightweight Toyota automatic in a small car like a Rav4 isn't
going to take much abuse.
I still agree 100% that the OP should change the fluid, though. Crossing
your fingers and hoping the sludge keeps the clutches working is a good
way to get stranded in a bad part of town.
Isn't it funny how tough all the old stuff is. The CJ trannys have to
be more than 20 years old and they still work after that kind of abuse.
It's because it was all overbuilt because they didn't know where they
could cut the weight, so they cut none of it.
Then in the 80's they cut the weight, but didn't always cut it in the
right spots, so you ended up with stuff like the first gen of 700R4s,
the Pontiac 301, 5L Mustangs with 4 bolt wheels and such.
Somewhere in the 90's they started to get better at building stuff that
doesn't weigh a ton but isn't fragile either.
The LS1 and T56 in my Trans Am are still holding up after the abuse I
put it through... the stock clutch on the other hand... isn't doing so good.
But, I'm sure you knew all that. :)
Ray
> Mike Romain wrote:
>
>> > Isn't it funny how tough all the old stuff is. The CJ trannys have
>> to be more than 20 years old and they still work after that kind of
>> abuse.
>>
>> Mike
>
>
>
> It's because it was all overbuilt because they didn't know where they
> could cut the weight, so they cut none of it.
Actually if you take a 727 or a TH400 apart, there's not a lot of excess
material in there, and they're not all that heavy so I don't think its a
question of "not knowing where to cut weight" at all. They KNEW-
engineers with slide-rules were often better than their CAD/CAM
dependent successors (and I say that as an engineer who never used a
slide rule...). I can roll under a car with an A-727 on a jack, then
transfer 2/3 of its weight to my chest and then bench-press the
bellhousing end of it up into position, and I'm a little guy who loathes
gyms. They just used to build them to last the life of the car, because
its easy to do that with a simple non-lockup convertor 3-speed. The
price is really that with all that extra clutch material in there, they
have more drag in 1st and 2nd gear when the clutches are disengaged (3rd
gear everything's locked solid). When they started reducing the number
of clutch plates and reducing clutch pack diameter to reduce the
disengaged drag from shearing the fluid is when reliability started
tanking. Somebody, right or wrong, decided that having a certain
percentage of transmissions fail before the rest of the car was "used
up" was an acceptable trade for higher fuel economy.
I think they've finally figured out how to make ultralight automatics
last by using the engine management system to throttle back the engine
during shifts. A 727 or TH400 was built to bring a 440 CID Mopar V8 or a
Buick 455 V8 from redline down to 3000 RPM when it shifted gears,
WITHOUT closing the throttle. That's a lot of energy dumped into the
clutches during each shift. Avoid that requirement by only shifting when
the computer throttles back the engine, and you can drastically reduce
the size of the clutches without reducing the life of the transmission.
But automakers only really started doing that within the last 4-5 years.
In the 90s, they would sometimes cut out alternate cylinders during
wide-open throttle upshifts, but now that most cars have servomotor
controlled throttle plates, they can throttle back on EVERY shift.
> Actually if you take a 727 or a TH400 apart, there's not a lot of excess
> material in there, and they're not all that heavy so I don't think its a
> question of "not knowing where to cut weight" at all. They KNEW-
> engineers with slide-rules were often better than their CAD/CAM
> dependent successors (and I say that as an engineer who never used a
> slide rule...)
Back in the slide rule days, there were drafting departments to do the
mundane stuff. I get the feeling that engineers didn't do half the stuff
we do today in the terms of mundane overhead type things. Then throw on
all the BS that has been added since then.
> percentage of transmissions fail before the rest of the car was "used
> up" was an acceptable trade for higher fuel economy.
Considering the penalties of CAFE, that's probably why it was an
acceptable trade.
>
> Yeah, Mike, but you're talking about Chrysler Torqueflights or GM
> Hydramatics in old Jeep CJs. They'll run on horse pee for fluid! A
> fragile, lightweight Toyota automatic in a small car like a Rav4 isn't
> going to take much abuse.
>
> I still agree 100% that the OP should change the fluid, though. Crossing
> your fingers and hoping the sludge keeps the clutches working is a good
> way to get stranded in a bad part of town.
I agree with your last comment. I dont drive sludge buckets.
Not all the older trannies were good. I refer in particular to the 440T4
Metric GM
which was doing good to make 100,000 miles in some of its applications.
Pictures of the pin type fittings about halfway down.
http://www.mcmaster.com/ctlg/DisplCtlgPage.aspx?ReqTyp=CATALOG&CtlgPgNbr=
2105
--
B.B. --I am not a goat! thegoat4 at airmail dot net
>>I still agree 100% that the OP should change the fluid, though. Crossing
>>your fingers and hoping the sludge keeps the clutches working is a good
>>way to get stranded in a bad part of town.
>
>
>
> I agree with your last comment. I dont drive sludge buckets.
>
> Not all the older trannies were good. I refer in particular to the 440T4
> Metric GM
> which was doing good to make 100,000 miles in some of its applications.
>
Yeah, but it isn't "old," is it? If its made after 1975, its "new." To
me anyway... :-)
Actually, I agree. "Back in the day" I thought that, compared to a
Chrysler 904 and 727 or the Ford C4 and C6, the GM TH350 and TH400 were
marginal at best (3 bolts holding the convertor to the flex plate? GIMME
A BREAK!) But by today's standards, they're paragons of reliability :-(
--
jonnyald
------------------------------------------------------------------------
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You'd probably get a better answer from the people in the Toyota
newsgroup.
Ed
Just have the automatic transmission fluid drained and re-filled by someone
other than the one who told you not to change the fluid. Do not get it
flushed, or you can run into problems from sediment getting lodged in small
passages.
--
Ray O
(correct punctuation to reply)
DON'T FLUSH IT!!! Unless, of course, you just want to install a new tranny!
Drain and fill. Good enough.
I went to a transmisison shop and they dropped the pan on the transmission
(150K miles) and found no dirt, no metal particles, it was totally cleaned.
I flushed it 4 times to get it totally clean and now the car has 230K on it
with no problems. I never changed the oil before. The car runs perfectly.
I checked with several junk yards and they told me Toyota transmissions
never fail.
I hope this helps
Mel
"C. E. White" <cewh...@removemindspring.com> wrote in message
news:46377637$1@kcnews01...
> I checked with several junk yards and they told me Toyota
> transmissions never fail.
Well, I have personal knowledge of two that failed - 84 Cressida and
89 Camry (kept working, but leaked so much oil you had to add it
before leaving the house).
Ed
> I burned the transmission fluid in my 91 Camry very badly. Severl
> mechinics told me the same story ... buy a new car ... the trainsmission
> is going to fail soon ... waste of money ... etc.
>
> I went to a transmisison shop and they dropped the pan on the transmission
> (150K miles) and found no dirt, no metal particles, it was totally
> cleaned. I flushed it 4 times to get it totally clean and now the car has
> 230K on it with no problems. I never changed the oil before. The car
> runs perfectly.
>
> I checked with several junk yards and they told me Toyota transmissions
> never fail.
>
> I hope this helps
>
> Mel
I hope you drop $1 and light a candle in the church you attend. Someone is
watching over you!
I'm surprised...that the Cressida wasn't the leaky one.
At least in '88 the Supra and the Cressida were about the same
mechanically, and my tranny leaks like a sieve!
Having a 19 year old transmission leak is no big surprise (especially
if it sits a lot). But the Camry was only about 8 years old, but it
was high mileage. The d$%& Cressida transmission didn't leak, it just
shifted weird and started slipping. It was neither old nor high
mileage when it went bad.
Ed
By the way which is better? a flush or a dropping the pan?
Do not flush the transmission!!!
It is not necessary to drop the pan. Just drain and re-fill.
> By the way which is better? a flush or a dropping the pan?
I wouldnt flush. If the tranny has a filter, I would (and do)
drop the pan, clean out any 'dregs', change the filter, and
top up with new fluid.
I wouldn't flush it. For every success story, there's five horror stories!
Drop the pan, change the filter, and refill. If it gets real black again
real fast, do it again! (don't change the filter the second time unless
it's filled with gunk...)
> I wouldn't flush it. For every success story, there's five horror
> stories!
The only horror stories are here....deep inside "old wives tales"
country!
Ian
The mechanics I know also told me about how new oil would clean the seals
and cause leaks, the transmission would start slipping, etc.
I was so concerned that the Toyota would die at any moment that I bought a
new car ... which we hardly use. I just ordred a tow hitch and
transmission cooler.
Maybe I have just been lucky? Or maybe driving it 80 mph (100 miles R/T) to
work every day helped? I bought this car new so I know its history.
The neat thing about newsgroups is you get input from a lot of people.
So far so good.
Mel
"C. E. White" <cewh...@removemindspring.com> wrote in message
news:463888a7$1@kcnews01...
Now, we sent two Escorts (Mazda trannies) to the flush shop. The first one
went 120 miles, the second 12.
Granted, these were Mazda trannies, but we never flushed another one again.
The problem is, what's turning the tranny fluid black is the friction
material from the clutches. If it's really black, chances are they've
burned right off. Basically, what's moving the car is the friction
material suspended in the tranny fluid. Flush that away and there may not
be enough material left in the tranny to move the car.
I'm sweating bullets on my Supra. I have two choices: drop the pan, change
the shift solenoids, replace the screen, refill it and *HOPE*, or swap to
a 5-speed (what I would rather do, but far more labor and parts intensive!)
>
>I have heard the candle suggestion before, including from the guys at the
>transmission shop that dropped the pan. The mechanic and I checked things
>out and it was perfectly clean. Even the screen was totally clean. Maybe
>the three (exchange) flushes (oil was still black) I did earlier cleaned it
>out. The transmission has never leaked.
>
>The mechanics I know also told me about how new oil would clean the seals
>and cause leaks, the transmission would start slipping, etc.
>
> I was so concerned that the Toyota would die at any moment that I bought a
>new car ... which we hardly use. I just ordred a tow hitch and
>transmission cooler.
>
>Maybe I have just been lucky? Or maybe driving it 80 mph (100 miles R/T) to
>work every day helped? I bought this car new so I know its history.
if it was mostly 80mph there was no slipping in the trans an dit
should be just fine.
I did the drain and fill a few times and the first time I dropped the
pan and replaced the filter. After that just drain and fill. Fluid now
looks like new and the car still shifts like a new car.
I tend to agree with Ian. This is another case where there are a lot of
stories, but I have never seen documented proof.
I dont like, or use, the flush because I feel it is a bit of overkill, that
it
is not normally what a manufacturer recommends as regular maintenance,
and because it costs a lot more. I have suspected that it was developed
to help garages up their revenues on the basis it was a high technology
'must do' procedure.
I have been wrong a lot before, and this may be another case of it.
>> The only horror stories are here....deep inside "old wives tales"
>> country!
>>
>> Ian
>
> I tend to agree with Ian. This is another case where there are a lot of
> stories, but I have never seen documented proof.
Seen it with me own eyes...
Had to go rescue the victims of two Flush 'n Fills myself...
> Seen it with me own eyes...
>
> Had to go rescue the victims of two Flush 'n Fills myself...
Of course you have! Have you ever performed a transmission
"flush"?
Ian
... and you would have had to do the same a couple months down the road
anyhow.
Maybe. After that we just did drain 'n fills, and never had a complaint...
Nope. Don't have the equipment.
And I hope you're not talking about that stuff you put in the tranny, run
it for 15 mins and then drain and fill. I'm talking a complete flush where
you pump 20 or more quarts into the tranny, and then 20 more quarts to
replace that. You remove everything from the tranny and replace with clean
fluid.
Some cars can't take it. I'm not going to find out, personally. But, I
don't drive Automatics unless they're given to me.