Help! Brake Fluid Contaminated!
Deepak Sarda
Hello. I own a 1994 Chev Cavaliar.
We had problems with the brakes not releasing, resulting in a burning
smell. We had a mechanic look at it and were very surprised with what
he had to say.
The mechanic said that the Brake Fluid had been contaminated. He said
that the entire braking system needed to be replaced. We were a little
surprised by his analysis so we took the car into two other shops. They
both told us the exact same thing. One actually used a syringe to take
some brake fluid from the reservoir of our car and showed us that it was
clearly contaminated. All of the mechanics are suggesting that we have
the entire system replaced which is going to cost a LOT! All three also
said that they were not interested in just flushing the system because
they felt that the contamination was just too bad. The only way they
can guarantee the job is to change everything.
My questions are as follows:
Has anybody had this problem with the 1994 Cavaliar, or any other GM
car? I am trying to figure out if the contamination occured due to
a defect.
Has anybody had this problem with any car? How much does it take to
contaminate the Brake Fluid to the point where it is impossible to drive
the car? I have been told that it would only take a few drops. Is this
true?
Does the entire system need to be replaced, or will flushing the system
work?
Thanks.
--
Regards.
Deepak Sarda
-------------------------------------------------------------
Deepak Sarda email: sa...@ee.ualberta.ca
CBall
>that the entire braking system needed to be replaced. We were a little
>surprised by his analysis so we took the car into two other shops. They
>both told us the exact same thing. One actually used a syringe to take
>some brake fluid from the reservoir of our car and showed us that it was
>clearly contaminated. All of the mechanics are suggesting that we have
>the entire system replaced which is going to cost a LOT! All three also
>said that they were not interested in just flushing the system because
>they felt that the contamination was just too bad. The only way they
>can guarantee the job is to change everything.
>
>My questions are as follows:
>
>Has anybody had this problem with the 1994 Cavaliar, or any other GM
>car? I am trying to figure out if the contamination occured due to
>a defect.
will have this problem. What the brakes shops do not tell you is you
need to flush out the old brake fluid every year. People like yourself
who do not know this supply them with lots of work when their brake
systems rust out and require total replacement.
>Has anybody had this problem with any car? How much does it take to
>contaminate the Brake Fluid to the point where it is impossible to drive
>the car? I have been told that it would only take a few drops. Is this
>true?
Depends where you live. If it is very wet or humid the brake fluid
could pick up moisture very quikly. Brake Fluid is hydroscopic.
If the brake fluid is a dark brown or black color it is very
contaminated.
The point where it is impossilbe to drive is when the brakes are
seized up and overheating causing the brake seals to start burning.
>Does the entire system need to be replaced, or will flushing the system
>work?
Well if they have to take everything apart to inspect everything you
might as well replace everything. Flushing out the system will
replace the brake fluid but not the damage due to rusting.
>Thanks.
>Regards.
>Deepak Sarda email: sa...@ee.ualberta.ca
Shawn
> Hello. I own a 1994 Chev Cavaliar.
> snip!
> they felt that the contamination was just too bad. The only way they
> can guarantee the job is to change everything.
Remember liability issues sometimes require that brake work be done
completely and correctly.
> My questions are as follows:
>
> Has anybody had this problem with the 1994 Cavaliar, or any other GM
> car? I am trying to figure out if the contamination occured due to
> a defect.
>
> Has anybody had this problem with any car? How much does it take to
> contaminate the Brake Fluid to the point where it is impossible to drive
> the car? I have been told that it would only take a few drops. Is this
> true?
>
> Does the entire system need to be replaced, or will flushing the system
> work?
snip
It can sometimes take very little to affect braking. If you are going to
flush the system I would be curious as to what the contaminant is. If
someone by mistake put in a different fluid - like engine oil, then by all
means flush wont cut it. If its water, then a flush might get you by but
*I* wouldnt do it if it was my shop given the info you provided.
Shawn
GNa...@feist.com
Michael Tjia
'91 Olds Toronado with ABS. I realized it immediately and tried to syphon
off as much as I could, but the damage was done. Two weeks later my brake
pedal sinks to the floor, lukily I still had some braking.
The dealer repaired it by replacing all the rubber brake lines including the
ABS control unit since they can not flush it. The master cylinder was
rebuild and the metal pipes they can flush. Cost me over $1200. My insurance
paid half. Still, expensive lesson.
You see, the ATF (petroleum product) swells all the rubber components in the
brake system and cause its deterioration. You don't want that to happen.
Better have the entire brake rubber hose system replaced rather than be
sorry.
Michael.
RDrew8690
>From: sa...@ee.ualberta.ca (Deepak Sarda)
>Date: 11/22/98 3:42 PM Pacific Standard Time
>Message-id: <73a7hd$fke$1...@pulp.ucs.ualberta.ca>
>
>
>Hello. I own a 1994 Chev Cavaliar.
>
>smell. We had a mechanic look at it and were very surprised with what
>he had to say.
>
>that the entire braking system needed to be replaced. We were a little
>surprised by his analysis so we took the car into two other shops. They
>both told us the exact same thing. One actually used a syringe to take
>some brake fluid from the reservoir of our car and showed us that it was
>clearly contaminated. All of the mechanics are suggesting that we have
>the entire system replaced which is going to cost a LOT! All three also
>said that they were not interested in just flushing the system because
>can guarantee the job is to change everything.
>
>
>Has anybody had this problem with the 1994 Cavaliar, or any other GM
>car? I am trying to figure out if the contamination occured due to
>a defect.
>
>Has anybody had this problem with any car? How much does it take to
>contaminate the Brake Fluid to the point where it is impossible to drive
>the car? I have been told that it would only take a few drops. Is this
>true?
>
>Does the entire system need to be replaced, or will flushing the system
>work?
>
>--
>Regards.
>
>Deepak Sarda
>-------------------------------------------------------------
>Deepak Sarda email: sa...@ee.ualberta.ca
>
>
>
>
>
>
The only way for brake fluid to become contaminated is for someone to put
something besides brake fluid into the fluid resivior, usually power steering
fluid, transmision fluid or oil. The contaminate swells all rubber parts of
the brake system, caliper seals, wheel cylinder cups, master cylinder seals,
brake hoses, anything rubber. Most of the system will have to be replaced.
LucentWolf
>From: Michael Tjia <mt...@micom.com>
>Date: 11/23/98 3:19 PM Eastern Standard Time
>Message-id: <3659C36D...@micom.com>
Walt Dexter
something other than brake fluid in the master cylinder.
The correct thing to do is to replace all brake system components that have any
rubber seals or other parts, as petroleum products will cause them to distort
and swell.
You may want to think about who has worked on your car lately - especially
quick oil change places - and give them a call. They will most likely deny it
could have been them, but they _may_ say, "Oh, damn, not another one" and pay
to have it taken care of for you.
There was one here in town where the owner's son was apparently working for a
while and he was pouring all kinds of stuff in there..... we fixed 2 or 3 cars
that got his treatment, and fixed them at his father's expense.
My recommendation would be to replace all rubber hoses, calipers, wheel
cylinders, and master cylinder. The steel lines can stay, but they should be
flushed well before installing new slave cylinders or hoses.
This problem happened because of a defect all right, but it was a defect called
"stupidity" or "inattentiveness" in you or someone working on your car, not a
defect in the car itself.
You might have "gotten by" with flushing if it had been done immediately after
contamination, but since you've presumably driven the car to all those
different mechanics, it's pretty much too late for that.
But, even then, 'immediately after' is really only a safe bet if it's literally
immediately after the contamination occurred - before the brakes are even used.
Walt
In article <73a7hd$fke$1...@pulp.ucs.ualberta.ca>, sa...@ee.ualberta.ca says...
Kaki
cylinder top seal in a varsol
parts cleaner.
The rubber seal increased in size ....
which was noticeable without measuring it.
Oil, varsol, trans fluid, etc can ruin the rubber
parts of a brake system.
There is a lot of rubber in a brake system.
Also if H20 gets in the system it can rust,
leak and lockup the metal parts.
Brake fluid is hungry for water and will
even absorb it out of the air.
C Kaptur1
Kaki
but I got'a dew it:
I use a valid Hotmail address to "absorb the spam".
Get a ton of spam there, none at my ISP mail server.
I just click the hotmail spams and dump them in the trash.
I also have a trash can near my snailmail box ... for junkmail.
On 29 Nov 1998 09:09:20 GMT, fra...@ghplus.infi.net (Frank B.) wrote:
______the following was snipped above this line____________
>While you capitalists are purging my email and spamming me, don't
>forget to include these people:
>Fraud Watch: frau...@psinet.com Federal Trade Commission:
>consum...@ftc.gov ACCC: swee...@accc.gov.au
>
>Oh, and while you're at it, here's a taste of your own medicine!
>admin@loopback $LOGIN@localhost $LOGNAME@localhost $USER@localhost
>$USER@$HOST -h1024@localhost ro...@mailloop.com
Walt Dexter
DOT-5 will not damage rubber components.
The reason it shouldn't be mixed with the recommended DOT-3 on newer cars is
that it doesn't work well with ABS. It tends to foam, as I recall.
If you don't have ABS, you can quite safely change over to DOT-5.
If the car same OE with DOT-5, of course, you want to stick to DOT-5.
Walt
In article <73r300$1o4$1...@nw003t.infi.net>, fra...@ghplus.infi.net says...
>
>In article <19981123225245...@ng25.aol.com>,
> rdre...@aol.com (RDrew8690) wrote:
>
>
>>The only way for brake fluid to become contaminated is for someone to put
>>something besides brake fluid into the fluid resivior, usually power steering
>>fluid, transmision fluid or oil.
>
>NOT TRUE!!!
>Mixing silicon (DOT-5 I believe) brake fluid with the 'older' types will
>create a chemical mix that will destroy all the rubber components in the
>system. Also, even water absorbed from the air will contaminate the fluid.
>Once the rubber components start to deteriorate they will further contaminate
>the system. What probably caused the brakes to stick is the rubber lines
>collapsing and preventing the fluid from returning to the master
>cylinder.
>
>Frank
>
>
>The contaminate swells all rubber parts of
>>the brake system, caliper seals, wheel cylinder cups, master cylinder seals,
>>brake hoses, anything rubber. Most of the system will have to be replaced.
>
c...@mvp.net
>
> In article <19981123225245...@ng25.aol.com>,
> rdre...@aol.com (RDrew8690) wrote:
>
> >The only way for brake fluid to become contaminated is for someone to put
> >something besides brake fluid into the fluid resivior, usually power steering
> >fluid, transmision fluid or oil.
>
> NOT TRUE!!!
> Mixing silicon (DOT-5 I believe) brake fluid with the 'older' types will
> create a chemical mix that will destroy all the rubber components in the
> system. Also, even water absorbed from the air will contaminate the fluid.
> Once the rubber components start to deteriorate they will further contaminate
> the system. What probably caused the brakes to stick is the rubber lines
> collapsing and preventing the fluid from returning to the master
> cylinder.
>
> Frank
True, but DOT-5 is not recommended for the average vehicle - it is meant
for high-performance or intense use conditions.
>
> The contaminate swells all rubber parts of
> >the brake system, caliper seals, wheel cylinder cups, master cylinder seals,
> >brake hoses, anything rubber. Most of the system will have to be replaced.
>
> While you capitalists are purging my email and spamming me, don't
> forget to include these people:
> Fraud Watch: frau...@psinet.com Federal Trade Commission:
> consum...@ftc.gov ACCC: swee...@accc.gov.au
>
> Oh, and while you're at it, here's a taste of your own medicine!
> admin@loopback $LOGIN@localhost $LOGNAME@localhost $USER@localhost
> $USER@$HOST -h1024@localhost ro...@mailloop.com
True, but DOT-5 is not recommended for the average vehicle - it is meant
for high-performance or intense use conditions.
sams
DOT 5.
sams
Kaki
on usenet, usenet only.
And usenet is a spam magnet.
I just click the boxes of spam and toss them in the
trash.
Read the rest at my liesure.
Easy to do. And if I get overspammed I just end the
current hotmail accout and open another ...
Bookmark it, click it, read it, log out.
My ISP mail account is pretty much spamfree and that
is where I recieve my personal email.
And if I do get spammed I will report it .... to do that on all the
hotmail spam would take too long. So I just click, click, click and
dump them.
I could use a modified or fake address, hard to reply for
some.
On Mon, 30 Nov 1998 02:40:55 GMT, gri...@primenet.com (Mr. Fun)
wrote:
>So how does that help?? You still have the same amount of crap to
>delete but now you have to go to two different places just to get all
>your mail.
>
>On Sun, 29 Nov 1998 11:08:30 GMT, Ida...@hotmail.com (Kaki) wrote:
>
>>I know my reply to your sig is off topic,
>>but I got'a dew it:
>>
>>I use a valid Hotmail address to "absorb the spam".
>>Get a ton of spam there, none at my ISP mail server.
>>I just click the hotmail spams and dump them in the trash.
>>I also have a trash can near my snailmail box ... for junkmail.
>>
>>On 29 Nov 1998 09:09:20 GMT, fra...@ghplus.infi.net (Frank B.) wrote:
>>______the following was snipped above this line____________