Using Vaseline on Battery Terminals
jim evans
Vaseline to prevent corrosion. I've never done it because it seems
like the grease would act like an insulator and impede electrical
conduction between the posts and terminals.
Do others who use it have any problems with conduction? If not, why
do you think that's so?
Scott Dorsey
>For years I've heard the advice to coat battery posts & terminals with
>Vaseline to prevent corrosion. I've never done it because it seems
>like the grease would act like an insulator and impede electrical
>conduction between the posts and terminals.
It's good advice. The thing is, the grease is an insulator, but it's
squeezed out by the contacts being forced together. Because the contacts
are both soft lead, this is fairly easy.
And vaseline is a very good insulator.
>Do others who use it have any problems with conduction? If not, why
>do you think that's so?
No, it's fine. It's not as effective as a grease that has an actively
reducing compound in it to prevent corrosion, but it's cheap and better
than nothing.
--scott
--
"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."
Vic Smith
I've never used it. And I have not had problems with terminal
corrosion.
My practice has been to put connectors on clean and tight, and
to wipe down the battery and connectors with a clean dry rag when
I do an oil change.
--Vic
N8N
Nope, it works great. I've also used silicone grease (AKA dielectric
grease) and that works just as well.
nate
Hachiroku ハチロク
> jim evans <jimsTAKE...@comcast.net> wrote:
>>For years I've heard the advice to coat battery posts & terminals with
>>Vaseline to prevent corrosion. I've never done it because it seems
>>like the grease would act like an insulator and impede electrical
>>conduction between the posts and terminals.
>
> It's good advice. The thing is, the grease is an insulator, but it's
> squeezed out by the contacts being forced together. Because the contacts
> are both soft lead, this is fairly easy.
>
> And vaseline is a very good insulator.
Water is, too...actually, water is an EXCELLENT insulator!
It's the impurities, such as metals and salts that are conductive in
water. If you could get pure, clean water with no minerals, etc you could
cool your computer with it like this:
http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/strip-fans,1203.html
Tegger
ed4582...@s21g2000vbb.googlegroups.com:
Pretty much anything that keeps oxygen away from the terminals keeps
corrosion away.
You could use spray white grease, Crisco, Cosmoline, bear fat,
clarified butter, just about anything greasy.
--
Tegger
Don Stauffer
While the vasoline MAY be squeezed out from within the connection, the
normal way to apply it is AFTER the connection is made. That is, with
the cable connected to the battery post, paint the vasoline around the
connector, on all exposed lead and other metal.
Vasoline basically IS grease. It is just refined and cleaned up so you
are willing to use it on your body.
BTW, if there is corrosion, neutralize the area with baking soda and
clean up as thoroughly as possible before putting the vasoline on.
Ulysses
"Don Stauffer" <stau...@usfamily.net> wrote in message
news:4a0c1eec$0$87079$815e...@news.qwest.net...
> jim evans wrote:
> > For years I've heard the advice to coat battery posts & terminals with
> > Vaseline to prevent corrosion. I've never done it because it seems
> > like the grease would act like an insulator and impede electrical
> > conduction between the posts and terminals.
> >
> > Do others who use it have any problems with conduction? If not, why
> > do you think that's so?
>
>
> While the vasoline MAY be squeezed out from within the connection, the
> normal way to apply it is AFTER the connection is made. That is, with
> the cable connected to the battery post, paint the vasoline around the
> connector, on all exposed lead and other metal.
While I basically agree with this statement I always put it on before
connecting the cable because I have lots of problems with corrosion and it
helps to keep that down. If it is in any way reducing the conductivity I
really can't tell. For me it works out better than to have corrosion build
up between the connector and the terminal.
jim evans
<stau...@usfamily.net> wrote:
> the normal way to apply it is AFTER the connection is made.
You might want to google around. I think you will find that isn't the
typical instructions, that's why I asked.
Tegger
news:guhebu$peu$1...@news.motzarella.org:
>
> "Don Stauffer" <stau...@usfamily.net> wrote in message
> news:4a0c1eec$0$87079$815e...@news.qwest.net...
>> jim evans wrote:
>> > For years I've heard the advice to coat battery posts & terminals
>> > with Vaseline to prevent corrosion. I've never done it because
>> > it seems like the grease would act like an insulator and impede
>> > electrical conduction between the posts and terminals.
>> >
>> > Do others who use it have any problems with conduction? If not,
>> > why do you think that's so?
>>
>>
>> While the vasoline MAY be squeezed out from within the connection,
>> the normal way to apply it is AFTER the connection is made. That is,
>> with the cable connected to the battery post, paint the vasoline
>> around the connector, on all exposed lead and other metal.
>
> While I basically agree with this statement I always put it on before
> connecting the cable
I do this too. But then my cable connectors are aluminum, and have little
barbs that bite into the battery post when they're tightened. Old-style
lead clamps that are smooth on the inside may not provide enough "bite" to
get through the grease film.
However, since the posts are tapered, it's possible the bottom of the lead
clamp is wedged on firmly enough to make proper contact in spite of the
grease.
> because I have lots of problems with corrosion
Then your post-to-case seal is broken. This is usually due to some sort of
mishandling or overtightening.
Treat your battery with kindness and care, and ye shalt remain corrosion-
free, forevermore.
--
Tegger
cuh...@webtv.net
my house.(too many of those ''spread the wealth'' people around here) I
don't tighten the battery clamps, I twist ''tighten'' them on there.I
have an old battery cable wire tied under the hood.When I remove my
battery, I let that battery cable dangle out from under the hood.That
makes it look like/seem like there is no battery in my van.Sometimes, I
have to use a round wire brush to clean up the battery cables clamps and
the battery terminals.I might try using some Vaseline and see if that
helps.
cuhulin
HLS
"Tegger" <inv...@invalid.inv> wrote in message
news:Xns9C0B3E4D...@208.90.168.18...
>
>
> Pretty much anything that keeps oxygen away from the terminals keeps
> corrosion away.
>
> You could use spray white grease, Crisco, Cosmoline, bear fat,
> clarified butter, just about anything greasy.
> --
> Tegger
>
Give the man a trophy.. This is the best answer.
HLS
> normal way to apply it is AFTER the connection is made.
Actually, it plays little part in the equation. The contact will be made
through the
petroleum jelly by clean metal contact. Corrosive (oxidative) films can be
far
more efficient insulators than this layer of "grease".
That is one reason that capacitors can be made with HUGE capacitance values.
Hachiroku ハチロク
Like beating on it to make the car start?
abdulra...@gmail.com
dsi1
Scott Dorsey
>Grease is good but it has a chances to reduce the charging power.whereas, Vaseline it won't it allows proper power to charge quickly.
dsi1
micky
<dsi...@yahoo.com> wrote:
>On Thursday, May 14, 2009 at 3:21:30 PM UTC-10, Hachiroku ???? wrote:
>> On Thu, 14 May 2009 23:36:07 +0000, Tegger wrote:
>>
>> > "Ulysses" <thereal...@yahoo.com> wrote in
>> > news:guhebu$peu$1...@news.motzarella.org:
>> >
>> >>
>> >> "Don Stauffer" <stau...@usfamily.net> wrote in message
>> >> news:4a0c1eec$0$87079$815e...@news.qwest.net...
>> >>> jim evans wrote:
>> >>> > For years I've heard the advice to coat battery posts & terminals
>> >>> > with Vaseline to prevent corrosion. I've never done it because
>> >>> > it seems like the grease would act like an insulator and impede
>> >>> > electrical conduction between the posts and terminals.
>> >>> >
>> >>> > Do others who use it have any problems with conduction? If not,
>> >>> > why do you think that's so?
word, but they sell little envelopes of it at autoparts store, just for
electrical things.
I've never used anything on my battery posts and in 55 years I've never
had corrosion. But I do use the red and green felt washers sold for
batteries, they are great and afaict last for years.
But once I had a switch or something filled with grease at the factory,
and if I rebuilt it, I replaced the grease with the stuff above.
>> >>>
>> >>> While the vasoline MAY be squeezed out from within the connection,
>> >>> the normal way to apply it is AFTER the connection is made. That is,
>> >>> with the cable connected to the battery post, paint the vasoline
>> >>> around the connector, on all exposed lead and other metal.
>> >> While I basically agree with this statement I always put it on before
>> >> connecting the cable
>> >
>> > I do this too. But then my cable connectors are aluminum, and have little
>> > barbs that bite into the battery post when they're tightened. Old-style
>> > lead clamps that are smooth on the inside may not provide enough "bite" to
>> > get through the grease film.
>> >
>> > However, since the posts are tapered, it's possible the bottom of the lead
>> > clamp is wedged on firmly enough to make proper contact in spite of the
>> > grease.
>>
>> >> because I have lots of problems with corrosion
>> >
>> > Then your post-to-case seal is broken. This is usually due to some sort of
>> > mishandling or overtightening.
>>
>> Like beating on it to make the car start?
>>
>> > Treat your battery with kindness and care, and ye shalt remain corrosion-
>> > free, forevermore.
>
>Beating on a battery terminal can allow a car to start - if the problem is a poor terminal connection. I used to start my Ford Taurus by opening up the hood and whacking on the box that housed the relays. They were all in a single sealed box that didn't allow access to the relays. It one of the greatest idea Ford ever came up with! The fuel pump relay was kind of flakey. Sometimes you just got to kick car ass.
the car wouldn't start until I reached under and pulled the cable at the
starter motor a few degrees around the stud it was attached to. I got a
buzzer that buzzed if the lights were left on and that stopped that
problem.
And I had a convetible top motor for which I had to open the trunk and
whack the motor with a wrench. As time went on it sometimes took 3 or
more whacks, but once it started runnign it always ran fine until the
top was up or down as the case may be. This went on for almost 2 years
until I had to replace the brushes in the motor, but the brushes I
bought, though the right size, had copper braid connectors that were
much smaller than the original (they were meant for a smaller motor) so
I wadded up a little piece of aluminum foil and put it between the brush
housing and the spring behind each brush. That worked fine for years.