Can't remove Mazda brake drum
Larry Waterhouse
shoes, but I haven't been able to get the brake drum off. I have removed
the 2 retaining screws and turned the star wheel on the cylinder to the end
of its travel. The drum is stuck tight, no play at all. There is some
rust, but nothing excessive. I haven't touched the wheel on the other side
yet - not much reason to if I can't replace all the shoes at once. Any tips
would be appreciated.
Larry
Bret Taylor
Larry Waterhouse wrote in message
<7ml551$2q3a$1...@newssvr03-int.news.prodigy.com>...
drums all day with a hammer to vibrate them loose. I don't think it is
uncommon.
Jeff Wynn
Water...@prodigy.net...
> I have an 84 Mazda B2000 pickup truck. I need to replace the rear brake
> shoes, but I haven't been able to get the brake drum off. I have removed
> the 2 retaining screws and turned the star wheel on the cylinder to the end
> of its travel. The drum is stuck tight, no play at all. There is some
> rust, but nothing excessive. I haven't touched the wheel on the other side
> yet - not much reason to if I can't replace all the shoes at once. Any tips
> would be appreciated.
>
> Larry
Is the parking brake off?
I've done it before.
"Damn, why the hell can't I budge this drum?"
"Oh...yeah, umm, parking brake."
-- jeff...@swva.net
**** SPAMMER WARNING ****
I don't munge my email address because I like being the jack-
booted anti-spammer. Spam me at the risk of your connectivity.
Larry Waterhouse
a hammer, too, but it refuses to budge. Mazda provided a makeshift "wheel
pusher" facility on the drums - two threaded holes near the center hub
through which you run bolts which are supposed to push the drum off the
axle. This didn't work either. Both bolts broke off flush with the drum.
Jeff Wynn wrote in message ...
>In article <7ml551$2q3a$1...@newssvr03-int.news.prodigy.com>, Thus spracht
>Water...@prodigy.net...
>
Yip Yu
to my mind is to cut the shoe retaining pins on the other side of the
backing plate and everything will fall out. Obviously you need new shoe
retainers after this and be sure you can put all the hardware and shoes
back the way they're supposed to be.
Good luck
Yip
in...@lehigh.edu
>> pusher" facility on the drums - two threaded holes near the center hub
>> through which you run bolts which are supposed to push the drum off the
>> axle. This didn't work either. Both bolts broke off flush with the drum.
Uh oh. Are you sure those weren't just tapped blind holes that were
intended to be used with a puller?
---Roy
:::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::
L E H I G H S A E
Jeff Wynn
Water...@prodigy.net...
> Yep, I can easily rotate the drum. I've tried tapping/jarring/beating with
> pusher" facility on the drums - two threaded holes near the center hub
> through which you run bolts which are supposed to push the drum off the
> axle. This didn't work either. Both bolts broke off flush with the drum.
Damn, that sucks. The only other thing I can think of would be to
alternately torch, WD-40 and beat on the brake drum. Maybe the heat
would loosen things up a bit.
What do you think the hangup is?
C. E. White
mac
removed your 2 retaining screws. Screw your retaining screws in those holes
and and that'll force your hub off. Luck.
jagman
spray it in the middle where the axle ends stick out, and
where the studs stick out too, it just gets real rusty, and
then bang the hell out it
**** Posted from RemarQ - http://www.remarq.com - Discussions Start Here (tm) ****
rm
remove the outer wheel bearing to get the drum off?? (grin)
maybe you can borrow/rent a brake drum puller...give the part in the
middle a good dose of liquid wrench....
NT
Jamesly
did,
"Soak it, Beat it."
.........
If I can relate a similar horror story with my then brand new van... I wont
go into why I was fooling with brand new brakes but,,
I tried EVERYTHING to get a wheel drum off, I even danced a rain dance,
while calling radio car shows, I even bled the some brake fluid off to
relieve some of the pressure!!
Then finally I just started yanking the thing around in abject primal
frustration.. I heard a "Snap!"( some people there claim it was more of a
"CLICK!") and the thing slipped right off. It turned out that the pushrod
that gets pushed out by the piston in the wheel cylinder had gotten cocked
off of the piston and was sitting on the edge of the wheel cylinder holding
the shoe out against the hub. SO no matter how loose I got the star wheel,
that little booger was still pushing the shoe hard against the drum.
I figured out that when I FIRST tried to pull the drum off, I stupidly had
the Parking Brake on. As the other poster suggested,,,CHECK THAT NOW!. And
when I first yanked on the drum, the pushrod and piston were extended
somewhat due to the parking brake pushing the shoe out. The pushrod was
being pushed out and got kinda angled as I pulled on the drum and slipped up
onto the edge of the cylinder SOMEHOW and stayed there. Of course I couldn't
see all of this but judging from where the sound came from and everything I
did and what I felt happen when it finally came off, I am pretty sure that
this was the case.
God what a bad weekend that was. I hope what has happened to you is
something simple like this. If not;
"Soak, it, Beat it!"
Good Luck,
James
Mike Hall
emergency brake is off.
Mike H.
Jeff Wynn
> uhmmm are you a pyro??
Nah, just owned a *lot* of old vehicles, like jeeps, that had parts
were that were rusted together. Torching (with propane) is always my
method of last resort. Half the time the part ends up being destroyed,
the other half fixed.
[SNIP]
Larry Waterhouse
drilled out the broken bolts in the holes, but don't have enough clearance
on the back side of the drum to run a tap in enough to completely restore
the threads. If I can rethread the holes, I will try to get some hardened
bolts to use as a drum pusher.
Larry
in...@Lehigh.EDU wrote in message <7mlec4$g...@ns5-1.CC.Lehigh.EDU>...
Larry Waterhouse
rotate the drum by hand, and when an assistant applies the emergency brake
or pushes the brake pedal, the drum immediately locks. As soon as the brake
is released, the drum can be rotated.
Mike Hall wrote in message <378EBDB5...@io.com>...
Bruce Bostwick
Larry Waterhouse wrote:
> I have an 84 Mazda B2000 pickup truck. I need to replace the rear brake
> shoes, but I haven't been able to get the brake drum off. I have removed
> the 2 retaining screws and turned the star wheel on the cylinder to the end
> of its travel. The drum is stuck tight, no play at all. There is some
> rust, but nothing excessive. I haven't touched the wheel on the other side
> yet - not much reason to if I can't replace all the shoes at once. Any tips
> would be appreciated.
I have an 80 GLC, been there, done that .. previous poster recommended checking
to make sure the parking brake is released .. you're lucky you HAVE a starwheel,
mine are fully manual adjust on both shoes ..
If the handbrake isn't what's holding it in, maybe the drums are worn to the
point where they have a ridge on the inboard side. It doesn't take much -- a
millimeter or so -- before you end up having the damndest time getting the drums
off. (If you find this is the case when you DO get them off, replace them --
even if you get them turned, they'll be over maximum spec ID!) One way to
determine this is if you can turn the wheel by hand .. which will also tell you
if your handbrake is still set tight .. ;-)
My experience with Mazda drum brakes is that once the retaining screws are
removed the drum is completely free of anything but the shoes -- the hub hole is
a fairly loose fit on the projection on the end of the halfshaft. If it won't
come free of the shaft, that's something of a major problem ..
Larry Waterhouse
retaining screws from the drum, and broke them both flush with the drum.
Made for some really interesting howling until I drilled them out.
mac wrote in message <378e5...@news.tislink.com>...
jagman
to come off, i know i had to pull the axle out of one(grin)
Larry Waterhouse
without it. I've replaced a lot of brakes before, and never saw a drum that
refused some coaxing from the wooden handled adjusting tool, and the one I'm
using weighs 2 pounds.
For everyone's information, during this fiasco I have learned that Autozone
maintains an assortment of specialty tools for loan to customers at no
charge. When you borrow the tool, you make a deposit equivalent to the
purchase price of the tool. When you return the tool, you get a 100%
refund. Might be a good thing to keep in mind. Details of their loaner
program and a listing of their loaner tools is at
http://www.autozone.com/best_parts/ForCustomers/tools/tools.html .
Unfortunately, a brake drum puller is not part of the program. Bummer.
Larry
C. E. White wrote in message <378E4B3C...@interpath.com>...
Larry Waterhouse
and the brake drum during design or manufacturing. Even with the amount of
rust you would expect to see on a 15 year old vehicle, and mine is
surpisingly clean, one wouldn't expect to encounter a brake drum jammed on
an axle as though it was a bearing on a shaft.
Larry
Jeff Wynn wrote in message ...
>Damn, that sucks. The only other thing I can think of would be to
>alternately torch, WD-40 and beat on the brake drum. Maybe the heat
>would loosen things up a bit.
>
>What do you think the hangup is?
>
.
danah...@yahoo.com
"Larry Waterhouse" <Water...@prodigy.net> wrote:
> Yep, I can easily rotate the drum. I've tried
tapping/jarring/beating with
> a hammer, too, but it refuses to budge. Mazda provided a makeshift
"wheel
> pusher" facility on the drums - two threaded holes near the center hub
> through which you run bolts which are supposed to push the drum off
the
> axle. This didn't work either. Both bolts broke off flush with the
drum.
Dumb question perhaps, but are you using grade 8 or better
bolts to push off the hub? If they're the cheapie hardware
store variety, then I could see them breaking off real easy.
Also, are you turning the bolts together a little at a time?
Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/
Share what you know. Learn what you don't.
Charles K. Scott
"Larry Waterhouse" <LWATE...@prodigy.net> writes:
> I might end up renting a drum puller, but I was hoping to get this thing off
> without it. I've replaced a lot of brakes before, and never saw a drum that
> refused some coaxing from the wooden handled adjusting tool, and the one I'm
> using weighs 2 pounds.
I have on occasion had to use the Oxy/Acet torch to cut off a drum that
could not be removed any other way. Usually what I found underneath
was nearly a solid block of rust.
Corky Scott
Larry Waterhouse
couple of bolts from a metric hardware assortment without considering their
hardness. I plan to pick up some higher quality bolts and try pushing the
drum off with them, but first I'll have to get a thread chaser to clean up
the mess from the broken bolts. There's not enough clearance behind the
drum for my regular tap to work.
danah...@yahoo.com wrote in message <7mnufc$nfr$1...@nnrp1.deja.com>...
>In article <7mlccv$3l1m$1...@newssvr03-int.news.prodigy.com>,
gera...@my-deja.com
mh...@io.com wrote:
> I really mean no offense but if there is no
movement.... make sure the
> emergency brake is off.
>
> Mike H.
>
> >
> > I have an 84 Mazda B2000 pickup truck. I need
to replace the rear brake
> > shoes, but I haven't been able to get the
brake drum off. I have removed
> > the 2 retaining screws and turned the star
wheel on the cylinder to the end
> > of its travel. The drum is stuck tight, no
play at all. There is some
> > rust, but nothing excessive. I haven't
touched the wheel on the other side
> > yet - not much reason to if I can't replace
all the shoes at once. Any tips
> > would be appreciated.
> >
> Treat the rear brake drum like the old front
brake drums. Take the dust cover off the end of
the spindel.(In center of drum)Then remove cotter
pin, or whatever locks the nut,then remove the
nut, and carefully remove drum and outer wheel
bearing.
in...@lehigh.edu
???????????? What????????????
>> Treat the rear brake drum like the old front
>brake drums. Take the dust cover off the end of
>the spindel.(In center of drum)Then remove cotter
>pin, or whatever locks the nut,then remove the
>nut, and carefully remove drum and outer wheel
>bearing.
:::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::
Ron Seiden
Bruce Bostwick <li...@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu> wrote in message
news:378F687D...@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu...
> If the handbrake isn't what's holding it in, maybe the drums are worn to
the
> point where they have a ridge on the inboard side. It doesn't take
much -- a
> millimeter or so -- before you end up having the damndest time getting the
drums
> off. (If you find this is the case when you DO get them off, replace
them --
> even if you get them turned, they'll be over maximum spec ID!) One way to
> determine this is if you can turn the wheel by hand .. which will also
tell you
> if your handbrake is still set tight .. ;-)
Yeah -- Had a Corolla whose rear brakes were so far gone when I got it that
the drums had to be torched off, just because the wear grooves prevented
them from being pulled, levered or hammered off.
g.tony
I had this very same problem with the drums on my '78 Courier (Mazda B2000
with a 2.3L Ford engine) every time I changed the brakes. Got out my mic's
and bore gage, seems that some smart engineer designed it with a "slip fit".
This means that the clearance is practically zero between the axle flange
and the drum. ANY rust or heat will seize it right up. Generous WD or
Marvel oil, a LOCKING hub puller, and a BIG deadblow hammer. Once you get
the hubs off, take a die grinder, with a drum sanding attachment and lightly
open up the center hole on the drum. Do this evenly all the way around.
This should prevent it from doing this again. I did that at 150,000 miles,
it now has over 400,000 miles on it, and no problems yet. (Yea, I know,
P.O.S., looks like it too, but it is very mechanically sound, and I would
not worry if I had to drive it across the country, rebuilt the engine at
310,000.)
--
Tony
Try to learn at least one thing every day.
Jeff Wynn <jeff...@swva.net> wrote in message
news:MPG.11f80c399...@news.vt.edu...
> In article <7mlccv$3l1m$1...@newssvr03-int.news.prodigy.com>, Thus spracht
> Water...@prodigy.net...
> > Yep, I can easily rotate the drum. I've tried tapping/jarring/beating
with
> > a hammer, too, but it refuses to budge. Mazda provided a makeshift
"wheel
> > pusher" facility on the drums - two threaded holes near the center hub
> > through which you run bolts which are supposed to push the drum off the
> > axle. This didn't work either. Both bolts broke off flush with the
drum.
>
> Damn, that sucks. The only other thing I can think of would be to
> alternately torch, WD-40 and beat on the brake drum. Maybe the heat
> would loosen things up a bit.
>
> What do you think the hangup is?
>
Paul
I had adjusted the shoes a little close. When you try to pull the
drum, the shoes tilt and bind against the drum making it even harder
to remove. I eventually was able to remove it using the puller holes
but otherwise I would suggest squirting water into the brake to
provide some lubrication. It will dry eventually w/o permanent
damage.
good luck,
paul a
Thu, 15 Jul 1999 16:57:33 -0400, "C. E. White"
<cewh...@interpath.com> wrote:
>They do make drum pullers.
>
Conase
drum with a rubber hammer as you try to take the drum off. If that does not
work, then there has to be an inspection hole onthe back of the drum. You will
have to pop the rubber plug and figure out how to back off the shoes while
holdiing up the self adjuster to allow the starwheel to turn. You are loosening
the shoes so that they are not as tight against the drum. Then the drum will
slip off. Cosult a manual to see what you are up against.
adi...@gmail.com
I haven't time to follow weeks of the thread of conversations
The B2000 etc. rear brake drums have a "self adjust" mechanism the prevents the star wheel from turning back wards.
When you turn the star wheel, "click click click" , you were tightening the brake shoes up!
The star wheel has a straight spring that pushes against it, from the back, and it only allows the "tightening" rotation.
This spring is what makes the "click click click" noise.
You need 2 tools at once to be able to wind the star wheel backward.
One to push and hold the "spring" back from the star wheel.
The other is the "screwdriver" or blade to turn the , now free , star wheel backward.
You can make the tool yourself, from a wire coat hanger or other stiff wire.
I.e. " do a "Heath Robinson" job. ( you would need to be my age to understand the meaning of that too)
When you have finished releasing the pressure of the shoes on the drum, undo the 2 Phillips head, countersunk, drum retaining screws from the drum face.
Clean out and lube the other 2 holes in the drum face. Screw the 2 countersunk screws into these threaded holes.
WARNING; Don't screw in all the way, and too tight, or they will bind in the hole.
This will draw the drum enough to be able to get a flat blade behind the drum, at the centre of the 6 stud hub.
DON'T lever it too hard, but use leverage and mallet banging on the outer edge of the drum to work the drum off.
DON'T breath in the dust! Clean it all out, lube everything that's metal to metal, check that rubber boots aren't perished or leaking (badly).
If you aren't good at remembering where everything was and how it goes together, take PHOTOS before you pull it apart.
Lubing makes dismantling/ reassembly/ rust resistance all the more effective.
I hope this helps you and others
Cheers; Mazda da Truck
Tegger
news:e34f2270-5b91-4856...@googlegroups.com:
> Hi Larry, have you got the drum off yet?
which would be pretty sad.
Google Groupers ought to check the message date at the far right of the
screen before replying to it. That way they can avoid replying to decades-
dead threads.
--
Tegger
thekma...@gmail.com
Or three spray cans of WD-40! lol Brake drums are designed to get stuck!