adjusting valve clearances. some questions...
Jui Tien
Hi all.
I have a few questions regarding valve adjustments on my Honda.
According to the factory manual, to adjust the valve clearances, I just have to rotate
the engine to TDC and adjust. My question is this: do I have to move
it slightly before TDC to take into account of vacuum advance?
Also, how is the feeler gauge suppose to feel when you are at the
correct clearance? Is is suppose to feel a little resistance or no resistance
at all.( I guess I am not explaining it too well!!:-))
The manual just tell me to go to TDC and adjust the affected valves to
be fully open and repeat for the other set of valves. It did not say anything
about moving before TDC.
So far, I have adjusted the valves EXACTLY at TDC to factory clearances, with
a slight resistance at the feeler gauge when I pull it out. The car does seem
to have slight more power than before, but the valve lifter noise is also
slightly louder. I just like to know if I have done anything wrong. the
car seems to run better now. Is there any way to reduce the lifter noise
as much as possible? Are mechanical lifters noiser in general?
Thanks in advance.
jtg...@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu
Robert T. Weverka
It is not critical since the cam has constant radius for some range about
TDC.
The valve spec tolerance is +- .001 inch. Remove the three feeler gauges
from the set which are exact, and the two neighbors. Try them all. The
exact should give you slight friction. The oversize should be pretty stiff.
the under size should be loose. After a little practice, you will use
oversize, and under size less often since you will develop a feel for the
friction for the exact feeler guage.
Mike Palmer
>
>Hi all.
>
>I have a few questions regarding valve adjustments on my Honda.
>
>According to the factory manual, to adjust the valve clearances, I just have to rotate
>the engine to TDC and adjust. My question is this: do I have to move
>it slightly before TDC to take into account of vacuum advance?
Valve adjustments are purely mechanical adjustments and "vacuum advance"
has nothing to do with them. Be aware too that each cylinder on a
4 stroke engine has two occurences of TDC in their cycle that differs
from the occurences for the other cylinders: once on compression and the
second on exhaust. Make sure that the followers are resting on the
base-circles of the cam-lobes when adjusting this (i.e. make sure
the TDC you are using is the one that occurs on the compression stroke
for this cylinder). If you are unsure which TDC you're at, pull the
distributor cap off and see if the rotor points in the general
direction of the post associated with this cylinder.
>
>Also, how is the feeler gauge suppose to feel when you are at the
>correct clearance? Is is suppose to feel a little resistance or no resistance
>at all.( I guess I am not explaining it too well!!:-))
A slight amount of resistance is normal. Some feelers you can get are
almost idiot-proof and are known as GO/NO-GO. Each leaf is really
two feelers in one. The idea is that if the clearance is correct, the
smaller of the two will fit (GO) but the larger won't (NO-GO).
>
>The manual just tell me to go to TDC and adjust the affected valves to
>be fully open and repeat for the other set of valves. It did not say anything
>about moving before TDC.
Huh? Fully open??????? Read above about the two occurences of TDC...
On most four cylinder engines you can bring cylinder #1 to TDC on
the compression stroke and adjust both (or all on multi-valve motors)
valves for this cylinder and then adjust a couple of other valves for
other cylinders. Then you can rotate the motor to TDC on compression
for cylinder #4, adjust its valves and the rest of the ones you couldn't
do when #1 was at TDC. The *exact* procedure depends mostly on the
firing order of the engine; re-read your manual carefully, it may
outline this procedure. This could save you time instead of trying
to get TDC for each cylinder.
>
>So far, I have adjusted the valves EXACTLY at TDC to factory clearances, with
>a slight resistance at the feeler gauge when I pull it out. The car does seem
...sounds about right...
>to have slight more power than before, but the valve lifter noise is also
>slightly louder. I just like to know if I have done anything wrong. the
>car seems to run better now. Is there any way to reduce the lifter noise
>as much as possible? Are mechanical lifters noiser in general?
Maybe you should re-check your clearances. Does the manual specify
the adjustment be done when the engine is warm or cold? It does
make a difference.
Mechanical lifters *in theory* can be as quiet as hydraulics on a warm
engine but this is rarely the case. Hydraulics run zero-lash and are
thus very quiet (if they work right :-) ) but mechanical lifters
have to contend with the fact that metal expands when it heats up.
Thus, the contraction when cold means that the clearance that works
nice and quiet when hot is now larger and the lifters will be noisier.
Hydraulics automatically compensate for this.
- MJP
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
"I'd rather have a bottle in front of me than a frontal lobotomy..."
- the immortal Steve Dallas
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
James Bruder
align with marks on the camshaft sprocket to tell me that the valves
were aligned for adjusting. This adjustment is made when the engine is
cold. The feeler guage should have a slight bit of resistance.
Jerry Stubbs
>Jui Tien writes:
>>Hi all.
>>I have a few questions regarding valve adjustments on my Honda.
. . . to adjust the valve clearances, I just have to rotate
the engine to TDC and adjust. My question is this: do I have to move
it slightly before TDC to take into account of vacuum advance?
I hope I'm right about this. . . the way I see it, either the
cam is pushing the valve open witht it's pointy lobe, or it's
loose most of the rest of the way around the cam. Since you
want to adjust the valves when they are"resting", just make
sure you aren't trying to set it for clearance against the
pointed lobe.
SO I really wonder if the cylinder has to be at exact TDC.
I think most people could see this pretty easily when they
have it in front of them.
As far as the tolerance +-, it's better to be a little loose
with the feeler than too tight, but I have a feeling most
manufacturer's spec's allow for this. If the valve is too
loose it will be noisy, and of course if you set the valve
while's it's trying to push on the cam, it won't open at
all and the engine will have to rely on the electric
starter to make the car move :)
Eric Perozziello
>
>
>I think most people could see this pretty easily when they
>have it in front of them.
No. But you damn well better be on the power stroke and
not the end of the exhaust stroke :^)
Seroiusly, if you look at the cam lobes, there are looooong
flat (uh, cylindrical :^) sections for lots of degrees
either side of TDC (on the power stroke!), so EXACT TDC is
irrelevant.
The basic idea is to be on the "flat" part of the cam. If the
rockers ain't moving when you move the crank, then you're
probably in the right spot.
-Eric
--
--
Governments that don't trust honest people with weapons, deserve no trust.
Zippy the Pinhead
>
>> MPA...@ndigital.com (Mike Palmer) writes:
>>Jui Tien writes:
>
>
>>>Hi all.
>>>I have a few questions regarding valve adjustments on my Honda.
>
> . . . to adjust the valve clearances, I just have to rotate
>the engine to TDC and adjust. My question is this: do I have to move
>it slightly before TDC to take into account of vacuum advance?
No; it's all a matter of clearance between the valve and the rocker arm.
>
>I hope I'm right about this. . . the way I see it, either the
>cam is pushing the valve open witht it's pointy lobe, or it's
>loose most of the rest of the way around the cam. Since you
>want to adjust the valves when they are"resting", just make
>sure you aren't trying to set it for clearance against the
>pointed lobe.
>
>SO I really wonder if the cylinder has to be at exact TDC.
>I think most people could see this pretty easily when they
>have it in front of them.
The objective of working at TDC is to ensure that the valves you
want to adjust are completely closed. Valve lash is the amount of
play in the valve; when adjusting lash, your objective is to set it so
that the valve will neither rattle nor bind. You don't have to be
exactly at TDC as long as the valves are completely closed.
>
>As far as the tolerance +-, it's better to be a little loose
>with the feeler than too tight, but I have a feeling most
>manufacturer's spec's allow for this. If the valve is too
>loose it will be noisy, and of course if you set the valve
>while's it's trying to push on the cam, it won't open at
>all and the engine will have to rely on the electric
>starter to make the car move :)
>
It's not difficult to set valve lash exactly. Get the appropriate size
feeler gauge and adjust the rocker arm so that you can just force
the gauge into the gap. Viola!
I'd like to see someone walking their car down the road
by using the starter!!! Talk about a skit for America's Stupidest
Videos!!!
Alan
acss...@acs.eku.edu
>
> . . . to adjust the valve clearances, I just have to rotate
> the engine to TDC and adjust. My question is this: do I have to move
> it slightly before TDC to take into account of vacuum advance?
>
> I hope I'm right about this. . . the way I see it, either the
> cam is pushing the valve open witht it's pointy lobe, or it's
> loose most of the rest of the way around the cam. Since you
> want to adjust the valves when they are"resting", just make
> sure you aren't trying to set it for clearance against the
> pointed lobe.
>
> SO I really wonder if the cylinder has to be at exact TDC.
Yep,
I think you are correct. You want to adjust each valve when it is
totally closed (on the flat spot on the cam) if you are trying to do a
non-running adjustment. This means it should be as close to TDC as you
can get it.
Many engines are easier to adjust when running. You will have to do at
least a half-ass adjustment non-running just to get it to run in order
to do a running adjustment.
dsc
Geoffrey L Yuen
When should one change the timing belt in a Honda Accord (LX,89) ?
My friend has 70K on hers but at the 60K major service
(done at 68K) the dealer/garage said nothing about it...
Is $270 (parts+labor) reasonable for this car ? (I did my VW
Scirocco be/4 myself) ?
Thanks
- Geoff
__________________________________________________________________
Geoffrey L. Yuen, Ph.D. g-y...@nwu.edu
Research Associate
Northwestern University Medical Center
(312) 503-1113 FAX (312) 503-5101
__________________________________________________________________
Frank Deutschmann
>Many engines are easier to adjust when running. You will have to do at
>least a half-ass adjustment non-running just to get it to run in order
>to do a running adjustment.
Adjust the valve clearances on a running engine?? Really? I've never
seen anyone do this. (Is it possible?)
-frank
--
f...@panix.com | In a half bright sky
1 212 559 5534 | An insect wraps and winds
1 917 992 2248 | A chain, a thread, a cable
1 718 746 7061 | Around the sphere of water. -- Racter
Dave Williams
-> When should one change the timing belt in a Honda Accord (LX,89) ? My
-> friend has 70K on hers but at the 60K major service
-> (done at 68K) the dealer/garage said nothing about it...
Well, it's close enough to the end of the month, when I usually post
the Freewheeling FAQ:
Freewheeling Engine FAQ version 94.02.01
maintained by dave.w...@chaos.lrk.ar.us
The original basis of this list was a transcript from Motor magazine,
August 1991, p. 22, posted to rec.autos.tech by Tom Leone,
<t...@slee01.srl.ford.com>. The original list was extensively amended
and expanded by by Tommy Wilson, <tommy....@chaos.lrk.ar.us>. Other
corrections as noted. (Thanks guys!)
Manufacturer Engine Recommended Engine
Applications (1) Change Damage
Interval Likely?
(Miles) (1a)
------------ ---------------- ----------- ---------
Acura All 1986-89 None Yes
All 1990 90,000(2) Yes
Alfa-Romeo 1987-89 Milano 50,000(16) Yes
164 50,000 Yes
Audi V8 90,000(3) Yes
Diesel None Yes
All others None No
BMW 2.5, 2.7L 60,000 Yes
Chevrolet Vega 2300 (22)
Cosworth Vega 2000
Chevette
Chrysler Corp. All Chrysler-built None No(4)
All Mitsubishi-built 60,000(5) Yes
Medallion 2.2L None Yes
Daihatsu 1.0L 3-cyl. 60,000 Yes
1.3L 4-cyl. 60,000 Yes
1.6L 4-cyl. 120,000(6) Yes
Fiat '61-77 124 Coupe/Sypder 24,000 Yes(17)
1988- 124 Spyder 24,000 No (17)
2000 Spyder, 131 24,000 No (17)
Ford Escort 1.6L to '83 60,000 Yes
Escort 1.6L '83-1/2 up 60,000 No
Escort 1.9L None No
Mazda-built 2.0L diesel 100,000(7) Yes
Mazda-built 2.2L 60,000 Yes
All 2.3L Pinto/Must/etc 60,000 No
Ranger 2.0L 60,000 No
'70-'74 Pinto 2000 None(20)(21) No
General Motors Chevy Spectrum 60,000 ___
Chevy Cavalier
Olds Quad4
Chevette
Geo Prizm 60,000 ___
Metro
Storm
Honda All Prelude 60,000 Yes
Civic, 1.5, 1.6, & HF 60,000 Yes
1985-89 exc. Civic None Yes
All 1990 90,000(2) Yes
'82-'88 Accord 50,000 Yes
'89-'93 Accord 80,000(13) 50/50 chance
Hyundai All 60,000 Yes
Infiniti All 60,000 Yes
Isuzu All 60,000 Yes
Lexus All 60,000 No
Maserati V6 (Biturbo) 30,000 Yes
Mazda All exc. diesel 60,000 Yes
Diesel (1984-85) 100,000(7) Yes
Mitsubishi All exc. diesel 60,000(5) Yes
Diesel 60,000(7) Yes
Nissan '85 Sentra 1.6L No(15)
most pre-1986 None Yes
all 1.6L 60,000 ___
1986 and later 60,000(8) Yes
Peugeot 1.9L None No
2.2L None Yes
Porsche All 4-cyl. 45,000(9) Yes
V8 60,000(9) Yes
Sterling All None Yes
Subaru All 60,000 No
Suzuki All None No
Toyota All 60,000(10) No
Volkswagen 8 valve 60,000(14) No(11)
16 valve 60,000(14) Yes(14)
Volvo All 4-cyl B2[13]F gas 60,000(18) No
1992? 6-cyl gas 30,000(19)(5) Yes
5 and 6 cyl gas 60,000(5) Yes
All Diesels 75,000(7) Yes
Yugo 1.1L None(12) Yes
1.3L None(12) No
(1) "All" refers to all engines equipped with timing belts for each
maker; does not apply to engines with timing chains or gears.
(1a) The USA doesn't show any signs of going metric in the forseeable
future. 1 mile = 1.853 kilometers. Sorry, y'all.
(2) Or 72 months.
(3) Inspect and adjust at 30,000 and 60,000 miles.
(4) 2.2L Turbo III, yes.
(5) Some engines have two belts.
(6) Or 144 months, whichever comes first.
(7) Has front and rear belts.
(8) Or 48 months; inspect at 15,000 miles or 12 months.
(9) Check tension at 2000 miles, then every 15,000 miles.
(10) Inspect at 30,000 or 45,000 miles per model.
(11) At high engine speed.
(12) Inspect every 15,000 miles. Engine service schedule ends at
50,000 miles.
(13) Depending on cam position when the engine stops, the engine
may escape damage, as opposed to most others, which are always
damaged. A compression check will tell if there was damage. (tw)
(14) info from James Matthew Kokernak <kok...@rpi.edu>
(15) info from Steve Anthony Nilsen <sn...@andrew.cmu.edu>
(16) info from Richard Welty <richar...@balltown.cma.com>
(17) info from Mike Jones <jon...@crd.ge.com>
(18) with the possible exception of the 4-valve version, the B234F.
info from <s...@unirsvl.rsvl.unisys.com>
(19) owners manual says 60,000, but this engine wears out belts
due to vibration damping problems, so the manufacturer now
recommends 30,000 mile replacement. <s...@unirsvl.rsvl.unisys.com>
(20) In his book "Hot to Hotrod Your 2.0 Liter OHC Ford" David Vizard
mentions belt life is often related to temperature. He has seen
belts last over 80,000 in cool climates, less than 20,000 in hot
climates. He mentions race engines with stiff valve springs can
get less than 1000 miles from a belt, and recommends belt change
intervals of 30,000 miles on street motors with stiff springs.
(21) Ford wanted $14 for a new belt last time I checked. It hardly
seems worthwhile to go for an off-brand parts-store belt.
(22) water pump slides left to right to adjust belt tension, drooling
antifreeze everywhere.
Comments:
"Although some manufacturers do not specify a belt replacement, it's
a good idea to plan for one at the 50 to 60 thousand mile mark."
- Tommy Wilson
"Typical failure mode is for the belt to shear off several teeth, so
that it no longer moves. Belts rarely break in service."
- Dave Williams
"The belt idler pulley may be a source of noise, sounding much like a
bad alternator. For some older engines such as the Ford 2000, these
idlers are no longer available and there appear to be no aftermarket
sources. In this case you may have to find a junkyard part of adapt
a replacement."
-Dave Williams
"A common question is, 'Why do manufacturers design engines which will
self-destruct if the belt breaks?' There are many reasons - most of
them have to do with combustion chamber shape and valve arrangement,
which are dictated by mileage, power, and smog design goals. Most
old-style chain-drive engines will also bend valves if the chain
breaks or stretches until it jumps a few teeth, and it's not *that*
uncommon for it to happen. Also, if people would change the belt
when the manufacturer said to, they probably wouldn't have any
problems."
-Dave Williams
Eric Perozziello
>
> Are there any good books or guides on how to do a valve
>adjustment and tune-up? I've done many jobs like timing belt/water
>pump replacements myself. However I've left the actual tune-up
>(which should be easier to perform) to a shop.
I don't have a good reference, but I think a tune-up is more
of an (sometimes, lost) art. R & R (remove and replace) is
mostly a monkey job. The diagnostics is also an art.
Flow-charts and troubleshoot tables are sometimes helpful,
but the skills of diagnostics and tune-up are best learned from
experience, IMO.
-Eric
Tom Stockman
: In <1994Jan26....@acs.eku.edu> acss...@acs.eku.edu writes:
: >Many engines are easier to adjust when running. You will have to do at
: >least a half-ass adjustment non-running just to get it to run in order
: >to do a running adjustment.
: Adjust the valve clearances on a running engine?? Really? I've never
: seen anyone do this. (Is it possible?)
Yep. Hydraulic valves, tends to be older technology engines. Steps:
1. Remove valve cover.
2. Gentlemen (gentleladies, too!), start your engines! At operating
temperature.
3. Pick a valve, any valve. Tighten until engine "binds", that is,
slows down. (Doctor, you put the tournequet around the patient's
*neck*? -L. Niven)
4. Back off, typically 1/2 turn. This gives maximum "breath", that
is, meximum opening of the valve, but the "timing" of the opening
might be a bit sloppy. This also gives maximum amount of time
required until the next valve adjustment.
3.alternate Pick a valve, any valve. Loosen until it clicks. If other
valves are loose, this point may be difficult to detect.
4.alternate Tighten 1/4 to 1/3 turn past this point. This provides
minimum "breath", but also the most correct timing. You'll
have to re-adjust more frequently. This also provides the
least friction on the engine (specifically, the cam is under
pressure a lesser amount of time to open those pesky valves),
and is more useful to someone racing a car.
Yes, Frank, not only is this possible, but likely. I've torn up one
engine with hydraulic valves using "mechanical" methods, (gotta admit,
only because the valve train was pretty worn out & crusted) and now only
use the the methods outlined above.
Please refer to the footer!
: -frank
----------------------------------------------------------------
Tom Stockman to...@ihs.com
...truth is sometimes stranger than non-fiction.
- Kent Kirtley
Jonathan R. Lusky
>1. Remove valve cover.
I warm up the engine before I pull the valve covers. More painful
but much less messy.
>3. Pick a valve, any valve. Tighten until engine "binds", that is,
> slows down. (Doctor, you put the tournequet around the patient's
> *neck*? -L. Niven)
>
>4. Back off, typically 1/2 turn. This gives maximum "breath", that
> is, meximum opening of the valve, but the "timing" of the opening
> might be a bit sloppy. This also gives maximum amount of time
> required until the next valve adjustment.
Yikes! I've never heard this method before... I've backed off rocker
nuts several turns before to get to the double-click point (someone else
had tightened them up to much on a cold engine). At idle I couldn't
tell any noticable difference in how the engine ran like that, except
for cylinder number one whose intake was three turns too tight and
intermittantly backfiring into the intake. Anyway, at least with my
valvetrain (crower hydraulic roller cam, stainless roller rockers,
manley stainless valves, comp cams girdles), that method would result
in my valves be about two turns too tight.
>3.alternate Pick a valve, any valve. Loosen until it clicks. If other
> valves are loose, this point may be difficult to detect.
>
>4.alternate Tighten 1/4 to 1/3 turn past this point. This provides
> minimum "breath", but also the most correct timing. You'll
> have to re-adjust more frequently. This also provides the
> least friction on the engine (specifically, the cam is under
> pressure a lesser amount of time to open those pesky valves),
> and is more useful to someone racing a car.
This is the way I've always heard to do it, from everywhere except
the Chevy shop manuals :). Chevy only says to set them statically by
feeling drag on the pushrods with the engine cold... that doesn't even
get 'em close in my experience.
--
Jonathan R. Lusky -- lu...@knuth.mtsu.edu
"Turbos are nice but I'd rather be blown!"
89 Jeep Wrangler - 258 / pile of junk!
80 Toyota Celica - 20R / 5spd
Dave Williams
-> >I warm up the engine before I pull the valve covers. More painful
-> >but much less messy.
> Good point. Also -- cut a couple pieces of cardboard to the length
> of your heads; place them vertically just inside the outer edge of
> the heads; this minimizes oil splashing out of the head and onto the
> exhaust. Much neater, also less foul burning oil smell to explain to
> the wife :-)
Here's an even neater trick:
Wrap a small piece of aluminum foil over the pushrod end of each rocker
arm before starting the engine to adjust the valves. The foil will keep
the oil from spraying the fender, the walls, and you.
Bob Rusk
>Frank Deutschmann (f...@panix.com) wrote:
>: In <1994Jan26....@acs.eku.edu> acss...@acs.eku.edu writes:
>
>: >Many engines are easier to adjust when running. You will have to do at
>: >least a half-ass adjustment non-running just to get it to run in order
>: >to do a running adjustment.
>
>: Adjust the valve clearances on a running engine?? Really? I've never
>: seen anyone do this. (Is it possible?)
>
>Yep. Hydraulic valves, tends to be older technology engines. Steps:
Also many older US-made engines with mechanical lifters. The pre-1980
Chrysler Slant 6 is probably the most recent. Adjusting them running isn't
all that bad, but it does tend to sling oil everywhere.
--
Bob Rusk
rr...@ssd.csd.harris.com
My thoughts, probably not Harris'.
David Wright
>>least a half-ass adjustment non-running just to get it to run in order
>>to do a running adjustment.
>Adjust the valve clearances on a running engine?? Really? I've never
>seen anyone do this. (Is it possible?)
Well, I don't know about engines which are spec'ed for valve adjustment with
the engine cold and stopped, but the Chrysler slant 6 and early solid lifter
V8's (if you consider 1965 early) were spec'ed to be adjusted with the engine
warm and running. You get to breathe a lot of oil. You need to let your wrist
follow the movement of the rocker while turning the wrench. The feeler guage
moves in sort of a jerking fashion, but it's easy to tell if the adjusment is
too tight and you're forcing the blade in. (Unfortunately, when I rebuilt my
65 273, the machine shop provided me with a hydraulic cam in the kit, and
insisted it was in the catalog as the stock cam, so I don't get to do this
any more.)
David Wright - 65 Plymouth Belvedere II 4-door 273
74 Dodge Challenger Rallye 360
85 Toyota Camry Deluxe 5-spd
90 Toyota Corolla Deluxe 5-spd
Tom Stockman
: In <2ikhcq$t...@perot.mtsu.edu>, lu...@perot.mtsu.edu (Jonathan R. Lusky) writes:
: >In article <CKH8M...@ihs.com>, Tom Stockman <to...@ihs.com> wrote:
: >>1. Remove valve cover.
: >
: >I warm up the engine before I pull the valve covers. More painful
: >but much less messy.
: Good point. Also -- cut a couple pieces of cardboard to the length
: of your heads; place them vertically just inside the outer edge of the heads;
: this minimizes oil splashing out of the head and onto the exhaust. Much
: neater, also less foul burning oil smell to explain to the wife :-)
(from the original poster of details of this technique)
Indeed, warming the engine before pulling the covers is a good idea...
As for the cardboard, well, I'm adjusting valves on a '61 Corvair these
days, it's got the horizontally opposed engine? I just let the oil splash
on the ground, it doesn't hit anything on the engine on the way down...just
the mechanic...
One trick for this engine, could work for a 6 or V8, is to take old used
valve covers & saw them up. so they keep the oil from sloshing out but
give you access to the nuts you're tightening & loosening!
Actually, I really like these old hydraulic valves, instead of trying
mechanically to get 'em right, you're able to tell what the engine likes!
----------------------------------------------------------------
Tom Stockman to...@ihs.com
...have you ever noticed how the people who say,
"There's a time for work, and a time for play,"
never seem to find the time to play?
- Unknown
Andy Dingley
dave.w...@chaos.lrk.ar.us "Dave Williams" writes:
> Wrap a small piece of aluminum foil over the pushrod end of each rocker
> arm before starting the engine to adjust the valves. The foil will keep
> the oil from spraying the fender, the walls, and you.
Or for the affluent, buy a set of clip-on oil deflector widgets
(part GA264A) from Snap-On.
--
Andy Dingley Codesmiths of Newcastle din...@codesmth.demon.co.uk
kenneth c king
greetings:
i recently set the lash on my selectric^H^H^H^H^H^H^H^H^Hslant-6, but i
had no problems w/ slinging of oil. i also set the rpm down to about 450.
perhaps that helped... (or is my oil system getting weak?) the oil welled
up in the rocker gaps, and flowed gently onto & down the pushrods (which
were rotating, kinda fun to wathc...). is that how it should be (given my
lowered rpm's, and 126k mi & never rebuilt :) ?
later,
kc
Dave Williams
-> > Wrap a small piece of aluminum foil over the pushrod end of each
-> rocker > arm before starting the engine to adjust the valves. The
-> foil will keep > the oil from spraying the fender, the walls, and
-> you.
> Or for the affluent, buy a set of clip-on oil deflector widgets (part
> GA264A) from Snap-On.
Those generally don't work well except with stamped-metal rockers.
They aren't shaped well to get hold of the cast rockers.
For the very affluent, you just pay someone else to do it. <grin>
Eric Perozziello
>
>-> > Wrap a small piece of aluminum foil over the pushrod end of each
>-> rocker > arm before starting the engine to adjust the valves. The
>-> foil will keep > the oil from spraying the fender, the walls, and
>-> you.
>
>> Or for the affluent, buy a set of clip-on oil deflector widgets (part
>> GA264A) from Snap-On.
>
> Those generally don't work well except with stamped-metal rockers.
>They aren't shaped well to get hold of the cast rockers.
I've used a set of the spring-style wooden clothespins for the
cast ones. Sometimes you need to use a piece of foil along with
the clothespin (the pin holds the foil in place). I own a set
of the deflector widgets, and have had the same experience. But they
gave me the idea for the clothespin!
-Eric
--
Did you know that the Clinton health plan will make it illegal for YOU
to pay a doctor for care that YOU feel you should receive?
In other words, under certain circumstances, the government can force you
to die, even if you want to pay for treatment out of your own pocket.