Re: what is a semi loaded brake caliper rebuild

["\"Re...@home.com]

On 12/11/21 2:21 PM, Peter wrote:
> I never did brakes but my dual piston front brake caliper boots are torn.
> Calling parts suppliers tells me I have two economical choices.
>
> One is a $50 "semi loaded" rebuilt caliper (with $50 core charge) and the
> other is a $15 O'Reilly or Napa gasket rebuild rebuild kit.
> https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/brakebest-hardware---hydraulics-261/brake-systems-4579/brake-hydraulics-4611/brake-caliper-repair-kit-199/d3a58bb0a88a/brakebest-brake-caliper-repair-kit/41248/227853?pos=2
>
> What does semi loaded mean and how hard is it to rebuild a caliper anyway?

https://homegearly.com/difference-between-loaded-and-unloaded-brake-calipers/

[Paul in Houston TX]

Peter wrote:
> I never did brakes but my dual piston front brake caliper boots are torn.
> Calling parts suppliers tells me I have two economical choices.
>
> One is a $50 "semi loaded" rebuilt caliper (with $50 core charge) and the
> other is a $15 O'Reilly or Napa gasket rebuild rebuild kit.
> https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/brakebest-hardware---hydraulics-261/brake-systems-4579/brake-hydraulics-4611/brake-caliper-repair-kit-199/d3a58bb0a88a/brakebest-brake-caliper-repair-kit/41248/227853?pos=2
>
> What does semi loaded mean and how hard is it to rebuild a caliper anyway?

Semi loaded could mean anything. Call and ask what comes with the calipers.

You can easily rebuild the existing calipers yourself, IF:
1) the insides of the calibers are not too rusty.
2) the pistons are not rusty, not scratched, and still chrome plated.
3) the bleeder is removable and not rusty.

Check the slides. May need new slide hardware.
Don't let any air get into the system.

[rbowman]

On 12/11/2021 08:18 PM, Peter wrote:
> The car is more than twenty years old so it specifies DOT3 but I googled and
> it seems I can put DOT4 in the master cylinder instead which google said has
> higher heat resistance.

DOT 3, 4, and 5.1 are compatible. DOT 5 is silicone based and in not
compatible. Why DOT didn't go to 6 to avoid confusion is beyond me.
the only thing 5 has going for it is it doesn't remove paint if you're
sloppy. Other than that it's a PITA. I've got in it the Harley and it
feels spongy half the time. I'd go to 4 but that requires a complete
system flush.

There are vacuum bleeder kits in the $20 range if your girlfriend
doesn't feel like pumping brakes but I don't know how well they work. A
Mityvac is up in the $60 range to taking her out to dinner as a bribe
might be cheaper.

[Paul in Houston TX]

Peter wrote:

> Paul in Houston TX <Pa...@Houston.Texas> wrote:
>
>> Semi loaded could mean anything. Call and ask what comes with the calipers.
>>
>> You can easily rebuild the existing calipers yourself, IF:
>> 1) the insides of the calibers are not too rusty.
>> 2) the pistons are not rusty, not scratched, and still chrome plated.
>> 3) the bleeder is removable and not rusty.
>>
>> Check the slides. May need new slide hardware.
>> Don't let any air get into the system.
>

> I bought this kind of brake piston spreader which won't fit because the
> calipers are completely enclosed so I can't spread the pistons with it.
> https://www.amazon.com/dp/B085HF434D/
>
> What kind of piston spreader works when there is no side opening?

What ever works. C-clamp(s), small turnbuckles, or you can buy the $20
ratcheting tool that fits in the slot.
But, new calipers should not need retracting and neither will the old ones.

Brake bleeding: get two quarts and use one to flush the lines before
*before* installing the new calipers then bleed after installing the new
calipers. Open a can and quickly turn it upside down in the reservoir.
That way there is less worry about getting air into the system.
You can bleed the brakes yourself with a hose from the bleeder to a bottle.

[Peeler]

On Sat, 11 Dec 2021 21:10:33 -0700, lowbrowwoman, the endlessly driveling,
troll-feeding, senile idiot, blabbered again:

> DOT 3, 4, and 5.1 are compatible. DOT 5 is silicone based and in not
> compatible. Why DOT didn't go to 6 to avoid confusion is beyond me.
> the only thing 5 has going for it is it doesn't remove paint if you're
> sloppy. Other than that it's a PITA.

Well, reading through you wordy (and mostly flowery) shit is a PITA, too,
senile bigmouth!

--
More typical idiotic senile blather by lowbrowwoman:
"It's been years since I've been in a fast food burger joint but I used
to like Wendy's because they had a salad bar and baked potatoes."
MID: <ivdi4g...@mid.individual.net>

[AMuzi]

On 12/11/2021 1:21 PM, Peter wrote:
> I never did brakes but my dual piston front brake caliper boots are torn.
> Calling parts suppliers tells me I have two economical choices.
>
> One is a $50 "semi loaded" rebuilt caliper (with $50 core charge) and the
> other is a $15 O'Reilly or Napa gasket rebuild rebuild kit.
> https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/brakebest-hardware---hydraulics-261/brake-systems-4579/brake-hydraulics-4611/brake-caliper-repair-kit-199/d3a58bb0a88a/brakebest-brake-caliper-repair-kit/41248/227853?pos=2
>
> What does semi loaded mean and how hard is it to rebuild a caliper anyway?
>

Do you need brake pads? Or are you picky (special quality
brake pads) ?

https://homegearly.com/difference-between-loaded-and-unloaded-brake-calipers/

A reman caliper is rebuilt either way so no difference
there. You may find a caliper rebuild kit is not much less
than a reman caliper (and assuming you have tooling and
skills to do a proper rebuild).

--
Andrew Muzi
<www.yellowjersey.org/>
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

[AMuzi]

On 12/11/2021 9:18 PM, Peter wrote:

> ""Retired" <@home.com> wrote:
>
>>> What does semi loaded mean and how hard is it to rebuild a caliper anyway?
>>
>> https://homegearly.com/difference-between-loaded-and-unloaded-brake-calipers/
>

> After reading that reference, is this correct on the package differences?
>
> Loaded = Caliper & pistons & caliper mounting gear & pads & pad mounting H/W
> Semiloaded = Caliper & pistons & caliper mounting gear but not pads or H/W
> Unloaded = Caliper & pistons only (even some caliper components are missing)
> The missing caliper mounting gear might be brackets, bolts, bleeders & pins.
>
> I tried rockauto but that system of ever expanding plus signs was too
> difficult for me as a novice. I'm sure it's fine for you experts though.
>
> I ordered over the phone from Carid the pads, the rotors, and the
> semi-loaded calipers but not the high temperature grease as it was a $16
> shipping for a $0.55 cent 0.14 ounce tube. The brake fluid was only by the
> case so I still have to get the brake fluid (is one quart enough?).

>
> The car is more than twenty years old so it specifies DOT3 but I googled and
> it seems I can put DOT4 in the master cylinder instead which google said has
> higher heat resistance.
>

> What someone said about rebuilding being a pain influenced that decision.
> So did what someone else said about pistons can be pitted or rusted.
>
> To clarify what someone else asked, I meant the boots on the dual pistons.
> And for lube a friend lent me a tub of quality Mobil1 wheel bearing grease.
>
> The range of rotors was so confusingly huge that I opted for the cheapest.
>
> The decision on pads was only $3 between semi-metallic and ceramic and the
> Carid salesman said the ceramic was better for less dusting (not that I care
> all that much about brake dust on twenty year old blackened steel wheels).
>
> As someone mentioned I will ask my girlfriend to help me bleed. The caliper
> has a metal line going into it so I may have to plug it up with something.
>

Go find some hi-temp brake grease locally. Don't use the
Mobil bearing grease.

[micky]

In alt.home.repair, on Sun, 12 Dec 2021 03:18:17 +0000, Peter
<occassional...@nospam.co.uk> wrote:

>""Retired" <@home.com> wrote:
>
>>> What does semi loaded mean and how hard is it to rebuild a caliper anyway?
>>
>> https://homegearly.com/difference-between-loaded-and-unloaded-brake-calipers/
>

>After reading that reference, is this correct on the package differences?
>
>Loaded = Caliper & pistons & caliper mounting gear & pads & pad mounting H/W
>Semiloaded = Caliper & pistons & caliper mounting gear but not pads or H/W
>Unloaded = Caliper & pistons only (even some caliper components are missing)
>The missing caliper mounting gear might be brackets, bolts, bleeders & pins.

I don't know but it sounds reasonable.

>I tried rockauto but that system of ever expanding plus signs was too
>difficult for me as a novice. I'm sure it's fine for you experts though.

LOL. I'm proposing a system with not just + and -, but I want to add *
and ^ too. Each will have a meaning but we won't say what it is.

>
>I ordered over the phone from Carid the pads, the rotors, and the
>semi-loaded calipers but not the high temperature grease as it was a $16
>shipping for a $0.55 cent 0.14 ounce tube.

Yes, we stilll have stores. An envelope of that costs a dollar last I
looked.

> The brake fluid was only by the
>case so I still have to get the brake fluid (is one quart enough?).
>
>The car is more than twenty years old so it specifies DOT3 but I googled and
>it seems I can put DOT4 in the master cylinder instead which google said has
>higher heat resistance.
>
>What someone said about rebuilding being a pain influenced that decision.
>So did what someone else said about pistons can be pitted or rusted.
>
>To clarify what someone else asked, I meant the boots on the dual pistons.
>And for lube a friend lent me a tub of quality Mobil1 wheel bearing grease.

IIRC bearing grease has some sort of strings in it. right? Not sure if
they're visible or not. Not the same as brake grease.

>The range of rotors was so confusingly huge that I opted for the cheapest.
>
>The decision on pads was only $3 between semi-metallic and ceramic and the
>Carid salesman said the ceramic was better for less dusting (not that I care
>all that much about brake dust on twenty year old blackened steel wheels).
>
>As someone mentioned I will ask my girlfriend to help me bleed. The caliper

Girlfriends are good at bleeding guys.

[bud--]

On 12/12/2021 12:22 AM, Paul in Houston TX wrote:
> > You can bleed the brakes yourself with a hose from the bleeder to a
bottle.

Does that work with antilock brakes?

[Bob F]

It does for me. Google it for your vehicle.

[Bob F]

There will likely be special procedures to actually flush the antilock
system, which may require special commands to the brake system. The
flush for the lines to the wheels is pretty similar to any old brakes
you've done before.

[Paul in Houston TX]

Yes.