I can't afford a new manifold so i was wondering if jbweld would hold
up if i used to to make sure it's nice and flat along the sealing
parts, there is no actual holes through the water jacket ect.
Looking at the specs it states up to 500deg F, i have no idea what
temp it would get up to on an intake manifold, but they do say
"Not recommended for use on manifolds, exhaust systems, and other
engine components which normally operate at temperatures above 500°
F."
Don't know if that is just exhaust maifolds or what, hoping someone
have have some experiance as to wether it would work or not?
Cheers
James
I have used high temperature epoxy materials (the red two-part stuff)
on motorcycle intake manifolds before and it held up fine. Try the
JB Weld and see. Worse comes to worst it comes apart and you wasted an
afternoon's work and maybe need to clean some gunk out of your water pump.
--scott
--
"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."
It may work, but let me ask you this, what is that manifold from?
Is it an old car that needs a numbers matching manifold for any reason?
The reason I ask is this, if it's a small block chevy manifold (can't
really tell from the pic) you could pick a stock one up for next to
nothing. The best performing ones can be found for $25 pretty easily at
a junkyard, and if you know some car guys, chances are good one of them
has one laying around that you could get for nothing.
Nah it's a australian holden v8 motor sorry, aftermarket manifold.
They are still worth a couple hundred second hand which is why i can't
afford to find another one.
I don't know for sure, but isn't Holden just a derivative of Chevrolet?
They may be different entirely, but I'm pretty sure there was some
sort of relationship between those two companies.
You might be able to try a Hollander's exchange manual and see what
might fit from something else. You might be surprised.
JW
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
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Plan on building a little 'form' that will fit inside the passage, get
the sealing surface level by tilting the manifold, plan on doing a
little filing afterwords to get the surface flat and even with the rest
of the manifold.
Dave
I used JB Weld to repair a busted head-bolt boss on an old Ford 200c.i.
head and it worked fine. Considering the fact that this was for a head
bolt that is under a lot of tourque, I'd say resurfacing a manifold to
repair corrosion damage would be a cinch. I've got stuff that I fixed
with JBW that is over 25 years old and still holding. In fact, if you
mix it well & let it cure for a week or more before you finish working
on it, you can drill, mill & lathe JB Weld. It really does get that hard.
As others have said, make sure you get a nice clean area to work on and
be careful in mixing the epoxy. My personal favorite is abrasive media
blasting to really clean metal parts safely, but grinding and chemical
cleaning is almost as good. Take your time grinding. 'Patience is a
virtue' in this case like you wouldn't believe. ;) JB Weld gets really
hard, but it's not the same hardness as metals so go slower than you'd
probably like to.
Avoid acid-dipping to clean anything, it'll etch every part of your
manifold inside & out AND it can make some things brittle. Rough inner
castings in manifolds are not great for airflow. You didn't say if your
manifold is aluminum or cast iron so I'll assume by "Old V8" that it's
cast iron. Blast that with Aluminum Oxide and it'll look like it just
came from the foundry. Cast iron is actually the same color as pewter
when it's freshly blasted - really pretty! If your manifold is aluminum,
go with glass bead. Aluminum oxide will tear into aluminum casting so
fast you might rip a hole in your ($$$) manifold before you realise it.
Then you'll be using a big old snot of JB Weld to fill the hole you made
and you don't want that. ;)
Good luck,
- JJ