so far, the answers are 1) white lithium grease, 2) brake temperature
grease, 3) "assembly lube", and 4) some new synthetic rebuilding oil.
Please post or e-mail any other opinions on this matter, ESPECIALLY
if the opinions are based on experience.
thank you,
steve
kn...@bga.com
no DoD #
When I rebuilt my engine 2 years ago, I used MolyGraph assembly lube, as
per recommendations in either the Bentley or Idiot books -I can't
remember. Being that this is a very slippery lubricant designed
specifically for thie purpose, I felt confident in using it. Also, the
grease goes away after a few miles anyway, replaced by engine oil.
--
------------+--------------+--------------+------------
Miles Lott, A.A.S. E.E.T.
Pro-Video Service, Houston, TX
SBE Member - Broadcast TV Certification
------------+--------------+--------------+------------
I've used and had good luck with a product called LubriPlate. It looks like a
white grease but changes to a liquid. I've also used STP Oil treatment without
any problems. It's easy to find, cheap and sticks to the new bearings well
enough. I haven't seen the Lubriplate any place around my area. We used to use
it in a shop I worked in. I haven't done that kind of stuff in years so it might
be long gone or something better on the market by now.
====================== TEAM OS/2 ======================
John Ritter - Amdahl Corporation
Dayton, Ohio
EMAIL: jd...@juts.ccc.amdahl.com
=========== Be Kind to Animals - Don't Eat Them ============
Steve Knoll (kn...@bga.com) wrote:
: i'm in the midst of rebuilding a motorcycle engine and an
: aircooled VW engine. After asking 4 different professionals
: their opinions, i came up with 4 different answers to the
: question, "What do you recommend for an assembly lubricant
: while putting together an aircooled engine?"
: so far, the answers are 1) white lithium grease, 2) brake temperature
: grease, 3) "assembly lube", and 4) some new synthetic rebuilding oil.
: Please post or e-mail any other opinions on this matter, ESPECIALLY
: if the opinions are based on experience.
Steve,
I build water cooled VW motors and I use Red Line Synthetic Assembly
lube or VHT assembly lube. I prefer the VHT because it's not synthetic
but it's very hard to find. If you have a local speed shop that carries
VHT products, they may have it or be able to get it for you.
Good Luck
Jeremy Wolf
It depends. The bearings and valvetrain are no different than any other
application, so I'd say use assembly lube there, same as any other
engine. I don't know what to tell you on the cylinder bores.
-- Chuck, rebuilt his first V-8 this summer
--
Chuck Fry chu...@rahul.net
Seeking a software tech support, Unix sysadmin, or Lisp programming
job in the San Francisco area -- resume can be FTP'd from
ftp.rahul.net:/pub/chucko/resume.text
I've built probably a dozen VW engines, mostly for racing purposes
(I know I know.. don't laugh). I always used lithium grease on bearings
lifters and such, and used marvel mystery oil on just about everything
else (eg pistons, valves etc..).
BTW, I don't do VW's anymore, I grew up and now have a V8 fetish.
dale
--
_____________________________________________________________________________
Dale Maurice UNIX(tm) Systems Manager, Competitive Media Reporting
Virginia Beach, VA da...@cmr.com, da...@infi.net
"Time is just one damn thing after another.."
_____________________________________________________________________________
Based on experience from a Chevy 350 rebuild, Assembly Lube. I've never
heard of anyone using anything different, and that is from several shadetree
mechanics to a pro-streeter....
ADZ
Yep, Lubriplate #105 is what I always use -- and it's still for sale.
-- mark
Mark Crowder cro...@spdc.ti.com
Dallas, Tx 88 BMW R100RS Texas Instruments, Inc.
I used to use lithium grease, but GM started issuing tech bulletins
saying not to do that, as it would clog the oil filter, which would then
start bypassing through the pop-off, which isn't what you really want
with a new motor.
They recommend GM Assembly Lube (whoopee) or Lubriplate. I began
experimenting, and finally settled on STP for bearings, valve and
pushrod tips, rocker balls, camshaft, etc., plain non-detergent motor
oil for threads (if oil is called for; GM recommends something called
MolyKote or GM Thread Sealer depending, Ford likes oil), and two stroke
oil for the cylinder walls. Putting too much oil in the ring pack can
cause it to coke up as soon as the engine warms up the first time; the
two stroke oil will burn off cleanly.
> >I've used and had good luck with a product called LubriPlate. It looks like a
> >white grease but changes to a liquid. I've also used STP Oil treatment witho
>
> Yep, Lubriplate #105 is what I always use -- and it's still for sale.
>
Yep.... I third the motion..... worked well for me
jd
--
John D Mooney
jdmo...@kocrsv01.delcoelect.com
Opinions expressed are MINE... NOT necessarily my employers.
Hmmmm . . . does that mean my Harvey's gonna, like, blow up or sumthin?
When I tore him down and rebuilt him, all I did was liberally coat
everything with engine oil and then crank him over a whole bunch before
actually starting his engine. I did do the first oil change after
running him about 200 miles -- there was a little bit of fine metal
suspended in the oil -- and then changed the oil again after about
600 miles. That oil, and oil from changes since, looked normal.
He's been OK for the about 5000 miles since the rebuild, but have
I set myself up for more problems by not using an assembly lube?
_ ___ _ __________________________________________________________________
/ / o ) // | Don Fearn | "What do _you_ care what | I share my space with: \
| / __/_// | Rochester | other people think?" | Anitra - '93 900SS |
|(_/oo(o/er | Minnesota | -- Arline Feynman | Gretchen - '86 K75 |
\__DoD #591__|____________|__________________________|___Harvey_-_'72_CB500___/
poo...@msus1.msus.edu ~~ poo...@rchland.vnet.ibm.com
GM warns against this, and Ford reportedly issued a bulletin on it.
The moly grease is a great lube, but it stops up the oil filter in about
an hour and then all your oil starts to bypass. I've switched to STP.
I don't favor oil additives as such, but STP is a killer bearing and cam
lube.
: Hmmmm . . . does that mean my Harvey's gonna, like, blow up or sumthin?
: When I tore him down and rebuilt him, all I did was liberally coat
: everything with engine oil and then crank him over a whole bunch before
: actually starting his engine. I did do the first oil change after
: running him about 200 miles -- there was a little bit of fine metal
: suspended in the oil -- and then changed the oil again after about
: 600 miles. That oil, and oil from changes since, looked normal.
: He's been OK for the about 5000 miles since the rebuild, but have
: I set myself up for more problems by not using an assembly lube?
I don't think so. Before I knew about assembly lube, I did the same thing.
Never had a problem. One engine had ~50K miles on it when I sold the car.
However, on the camshaft I heartily recommend using the lube supplied with
it, or buying assembly lube, if it didn't come with it.
-mike