What would you guess is the best oil to put back into this compressor?
30 weight non detergent? Or does it really matter very much?
They usually take compressor oil. That's what mine calls for. The dino
oil version isn't much good below freezing, likely that 30 weight so if
you want winter use a synthetic works best.
I would see if the company that made the compressor is still around and
check there.
I checked the imperial oil site, and they sell a bunch of compressor
oils dependent on the type of compressor.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
'New' frame in the works for '08. Some Canadian Bush Trip and Build
Photos: http://mikeromainjeeptrips.shutterfly.com
I have a 220v , 2 stage compressor.
I use:
Dayton Air Compressor OIl
Model A-???88A
SAE 30
*Rust and corrosion protection
*Excellent oxidation and thermal stability
*Anti-foam protection
*Non-detergent
*Resists carbon formation
*Harmful or fatal if swallowed
*Avoid contact with skin or eyes!!!
You bought a new oiless compressor???? Sorry, buddy, but
you bought a P.O.S. If it lasts a year you'll be lucky....
If you can put up with the noise you're probably half deaf
already...
These compressors use a teflon coated piston that will
fail quickly especially if put under any stress....
One Horse, Texas is where they MAKE the oil.
Try Royal Purple. They have some excellent compressor oils, and they
are somewhere in Texas too.
--scott
--
"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."
good luck,
harryface
Home Depot (and all sorts of other places) sell "compressor oil." My
guess is that its 30-weight non-detergent with minimal additives. It
smells/looks/feels a whole lot like the clear type of power steering
fluid. Its also probably more readily available than straight 30-weight
non-detergent oil these days.
The most critical single thing is to use a non-detergent oil so that it
doesn't entrain water that blows by the compressor rings in the form of
vapor, and then re-condenses in the oil. You want that to settle to the
bottom of the sump and stay there. All other characteristics of the oil
are really secondary.
My cheap old Campbell-Hausfeld -HP oilless compressor is probably about
15 years old by now. Nary a problem. It doesn't get daily hard use, but
its seen a LOT of hours over that 15 year period. Oilless compressors
are a lot better than they were 30 years ago. I also have an even older
5-horse 2-cylinder compressor (oil type) that does the heavy work like
running the blast cabinet, grinders, cut-off wheels, and most painting,
but the oilless one is a lot easier to haul around.
Those old Jiggs and Maggie cartoons of many years ago in the comic books
and newspaper comic strips,,, (I remember them well) back in the 1950s
Ford used to have some great big Jiggs posters on the walls or hanging
around in the Ford factories of Jiggs saying, SURE, AND QUALITY COUNTS!
I am sold on oiless air compressors.Have you ever tried to spray paint
something and oil is in the air line? I can tell you it doesn't work!
I think 30 weight motor oil for the kinds of air compressors that are
lubricated with oil is as good as anything else.That is probally what
the gas stations/service stations/auto repair shops many years ago used
anyway.The oil cap on the Briggs & Stratton engine on little walk behind
lawn mower says to use 30 weight oil.
cuhulin
BobJ wrote:
> cuh...@webtv.net wrote:
> > About a year ago, I gave my old twin cylinder Sears Craftsman air
> > compressor to an old buddy.That air compressor was leaking oil into the
> > air line.I bought a new oiless air compressor.
>
> You bought a new oiless compressor???? Sorry, buddy, but
> you bought a P.O.S. If it lasts a year you'll be lucky....
> If you can put up with the noise you're probably half deaf
> already...
> These compressors use a teflon coated piston that will
> fail quickly especially if put under any stress....
I have a 12-year-old 6.1 CFM @ 90 PSI Campbell-Hausfeld oilless. It
is very noisy but otherwise works fine. Could it be that some
people's oilless compressors fail quickly because they don't break
them in? The instructions for mine called for running the thing for
30 minutes at zero PSI before putting it to regular use.
That little shack out near the underpass? ;>)
Ol' Marvin sure got stuffy about having a chicken ranch operating in Texas.
Use 30 or 40, if it's really old and worn, non-detergent. You may have
trouble getting 40 so you'll be stuck with the 30 wt. You can also add
that Lucas oil additive product, oil stabilizer, I think. It is heavy
in molibdenum. If you get oil in the lines build a trap, drain and add
a good filter.
disston
Lucas oil additives = no way in hell in anything I own: