Can I change the freeze plugs on a 4.9L without removing the engine?
Nehmo
I don't have a clear understanding of the history of this truck. The
owner is offering it to me to use if I can fix it. I really need a
vehicle now for work, so I'm trying my best to get it going.
After doing a number of repairs to the truck, and getting it going
sort-of, I discovered two leaking freeze plugs, the front and the rear
(on this inline 6). The leaks are too large to ignore, and the rear
one pours directly on the starter. (The truck is missing the radiator
cap; this is probably because the former user misplaced the cap
because of constantly adding water, or he or she didn't want to
pressurize the cooling system.)
The freeze plugs are very hard to access. I'm not even sure it's even
possible to reach them with the engine still in the truck. So I'm
wondering, is it possible to change these freeze plugs without
removing the engine?
I'm not an auto mechanic, and I don't have a lot of tools. But I have
a mechanical aptitude, and if it can be done, I can do it. But I need
to know if it's reasonable to change them without removing the engine.
I need to know how to proceed. Someone with experience with the engine
would know.
I have to decide on a course of action. I would appreciate any
recommendations. Has anybody changed these freeze plugs?
It's a 1990 F150 with a 4.9L fuel injected engine.
~~ Nehmo
Nehmo
> "Nehmo" <nehm...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
>
> news:fc1f1421-da47-4dac...@e20g2000vbn.googlegroups.com...
>
> > 1990 Ford F150 6 cyl 4.9L, or 300 cid, Fuel Injected Engine
>
> Has worked for me on older engines.
I was thinking about that, epoxy of some kind. There's rust around the
leaks; I'll have to clean what I can first. But almost any alternative
to replacing the plugs is welcome. It's only with difficulty I can
even SEE the back leak. Plus, there's another in the front. Plus, the
engine doesn't run right anyway. But I suppose I'm committed.
~~ Nehmo
jim beam
i would back up a bit and ask yourself why the freeze plugs are leaking
in the first place. there's only two reasons - one is neglect, the
other is gross neglect
for #1, if the vehicle's been run without antifreeze, frozen and the
plug has been partially pushed out, you have a problem since freeze
plugs only protect an engine if you're lucky, with block/head cracking
being very common results regardless of whether the plug pushes out.
for #2, if the vehicle has been run without antifreeze [which is also a
corrosion inhibitor] so long that the plug has rusted through, you'd be
lucky if that was the only problem.
either way, i think you should focus on the big picture here - leaking
freeze plugs are symptomatic of much more serious issues than simple
coolant loss. if you don't have tools and don't have experience, save
yourself a LOT of money and put the money you do have into a vehicle
that only needs the simple stuff fixing. if this p.o.s. needs a new
motor, cooling system, heater system and a bunch of peripherals because
they're all cracked or filled up with corrosion and crud, it will end up
being cheaper to buy something that works in the first place.
--
nomina rutrum rutrum
jim beam
> On Sep 13, 12:18�pm, "Tom J"<tomn...@earthlink.net> wrote:
>> "Nehmo"<nehm...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
>>
>> news:fc1f1421-da47-4dac...@e20g2000vbn.googlegroups.com...
>>
>>> 1990 Ford F150 6 cyl 4.9L, or 300 cid, Fuel Injected Engine
>>
>> Has worked for me on older engines.
>
> I was thinking about that, epoxy of some kind. There's rust around the
> leaks; I'll have to clean what I can first. But almost any alternative
> to replacing the plugs is welcome. It's only with difficulty I can
> even SEE the back leak. Plus, there's another in the front. Plus, the
> engine doesn't run right anyway. But I suppose I'm committed.
>
> ~~ Nehmo
need to be committed or committed to running away?
--
nomina rutrum rutrum
m6onz5a
you could always put a rubber expansion plug in.. They have a nut you
tighten instead of hitting them in.
C. E. White
"Nehmo" <neh...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:fc1f1421-da47-4dac...@e20g2000vbn.googlegroups.com...
> 1990 Ford F150 6 cyl 4.9L, or 300 cid, Fuel Injected Engine
>
> I don't have a clear understanding of the history of this truck. The
> owner is offering it to me to use if I can fix it. I really need a
> vehicle now for work, so I'm trying my best to get it going.
>
> After doing a number of repairs to the truck, and getting it going
> sort-of, I discovered two leaking freeze plugs, the front and the rear
> (on this inline 6). The leaks are too large to ignore, and the rear
> one pours directly on the starter. (The truck is missing the radiator
> cap; this is probably because the former user misplaced the cap
> because of constantly adding water, or he or she didn't want to
> pressurize the cooling system.)
>
> The freeze plugs are very hard to access. I'm not even sure it's even
> possible to reach them with the engine still in the truck. So I'm
> wondering, is it possible to change these freeze plugs without
> removing the engine?
How far are you willing to go to repair this "free" truck? It will be a lot
easier to get to the freeze plugs if you are willing to take off the
manifolds, which might be more of a job than you can handle (particularly
the exhaust manifold). If you are trying to get a few more miles out of the
truck, then it is a lot easier to repalce the existing freeze plugs with the
rubber expansion type plugs (particualrly if you are not familar with the
drive in type plugs). See http://www.dormanproducts.com/p-25890-24008.aspx
for a picture of this type of plug. These are fairly cheap and not hard to
install.
The 4.9L Six is usually pretty rugged, but I would be worried about the
condition if you have two freeze plugs leaking. The expansion freeze plugs
are cheap ( around $4.00 each), so if you ahve the time, replacing two of
them would not be particualrly expensive. However, I suspect as soon as you
repalce the freeze plugs (and the radiator cap) and let pressure build up in
the cooling system you will find addtional and possibly more significant
problems. It is unusal for freeze plugs to rust through on a properly
maintained engine of that age. Is it reasonable to think that only two have
rusted throguh (there are five of them on the side of the engine under the
manifolds - two different sizes)? I think not.
There are pictures of a carburetted version of the engine at
http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/857250-hipo-300-i6-swap-complete-what-next-picture-warning.html
that show the freeze plugs. I think I could change the front and rear ones
without taking off the manifolds, but I doubt I could get to the middle
ones, especially on a 1990 fuel injected version of the engine unless I took
off the manifolds.
Ed
Vic Smith
wrote:
>
>I have to decide on a course of action. I would appreciate any
>recommendations. Has anybody changed these freeze plugs?
>
Not me. But I recommend popping some GM cooling system pellets in
there and see if it stops the leaking.
Worth a try for a few bucks..
Supposedly same as Bar's Leak Gold, but you best confirm that.
It's crushed walnut shells and/or coconut fibers or something and
supposedly won't hurt your cooling system.
I put the GM tabs right away in a Corsica 2.2 I bought when I noticed
what looked like rust stains where the head meets the block and read
the head gaskets sometimes fail on that motor.
Drove it for 12 years after that without a problem.
Also put some in my 3.1 Lumina when I heard the intake manifolds
gaskets fail.
150k miles on that with no leaks.
Anyway, worth a try.
--Vic
Jeff Strickland
"Nehmo" <neh...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:fc1f1421-da47-4dac...@e20g2000vbn.googlegroups.com...
>
> I don't have a clear understanding of the history of this truck. The
> owner is offering it to me to use if I can fix it. I really need a
> vehicle now for work, so I'm trying my best to get it going.
>
> After doing a number of repairs to the truck, and getting it going
> sort-of, I discovered two leaking freeze plugs, the front and the rear
> (on this inline 6). The leaks are too large to ignore, and the rear
> one pours directly on the starter. (The truck is missing the radiator
> cap; this is probably because the former user misplaced the cap
> because of constantly adding water, or he or she didn't want to
> pressurize the cooling system.)
>
> The freeze plugs are very hard to access. I'm not even sure it's even
> possible to reach them with the engine still in the truck. So I'm
> wondering, is it possible to change these freeze plugs without
> removing the engine?
>
It's possible, but you said you can't get at them, so it would not be
possible in your case.
If you are careful, you can pry the old plugs out with a screw driver, but
you need a clear shot with a hammer to tap the new one(s) into place.
Nehmo
> "Nehmo" <nehm...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
From my point of view, the job doesn't look like a walk in the park.
But sometimes someone will have done the exact job and found it
possible or reasonably possible. I was hoping for someone to say
something like "You just take off the exhaust man, and then the plug
are easy". That would have been encouraging. Well, I'm going to try
it. Why not?
~~ Nehmo
Nehmo
> "Nehmo" <nehm...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
>
> news:fc1f1421-da47-4dac...@e20g2000vbn.googlegroups.com...
>
>
>
>
>
> > 1990 Ford F150 6 cyl 4.9L, or 300 cid, Fuel Injected Engine
>
> > I don't have a clear understanding of the history of this truck. The
> > owner is offering it to me to use if I can fix it. I really need a
> > vehicle now for work, so I'm trying my best to get it going.
>
> > After doing a number of repairs to the truck, and getting it going
> > sort-of, I discovered two leaking freeze plugs, the front and the rear
> > (on this inline 6). The leaks are too large to ignore, and the rear
> > one pours directly on the starter. (The truck is missing the radiator
> > cap; this is probably because the former user misplaced the cap
> > because of constantly adding water, or he or she didn't want to
> > pressurize the cooling system.)
>
> > The freeze plugs are very hard to access. I'm not even sure it's even
> > possible to reach them with the engine still in the truck. So I'm
> > wondering, is it possible to change these freeze plugs without
> > removing the engine?
>
> How far are you willing to go to repair this "free" truck? It will be a lot
> easier to get to the freeze plugs if you are willing to take off the
> manifolds, which might be more of a job than you can handle (particularly
> the exhaust manifold). If you are trying to get a few more miles out of the
> truck, then it is a lot easier to repalce the existing freeze plugs with the
> rubber expansion type plugs (particualrly if you are not familar with the
> for a picture of this type of plug. These are fairly cheap and not hard to
> install.
>
> The 4.9L Six is usually pretty rugged, but I would be worried about the
> condition if you have two freeze plugs leaking. The expansion freeze plugs
> are cheap ( around $4.00 each), so if you ahve the time, replacing two of
> them would not be particualrly expensive. However, I suspect as soon as you
> repalce the freeze plugs (and the radiator cap) and let pressure build up in
> the cooling system you will find addtional and possibly more significant
> problems. It is unusal for freeze plugs to rust through on a properly
> maintained engine of that age. Is it reasonable to think that only two have
> rusted throguh (there are five of them on the side of the engine under the
> manifolds - two different sizes)? I think not.
>
> that show the freeze plugs. I think I could change the front and rear ones
> without taking off the manifolds, but I doubt I could get to the middle
> ones, especially on a 1990 fuel injected version of the engine unless I took
> off the manifolds.
>
> Ed
>
>
>
> > I'm not an auto mechanic, and I don't have a lot of tools. But I have
> > a mechanical aptitude, and if it can be done, I can do it. But I need
> > to know if it's reasonable to change them without removing the engine.
> > I need to know how to proceed. Someone with experience with the engine
> > would know.
>
> > I have to decide on a course of action. I would appreciate any
> > recommendations. Has anybody changed these freeze plugs?
>
> > It's a 1990 F150 with a 4.9L fuel injected engine.
>
> > ~~Nehmo
For better or worse, I've already invested a bunch of time in this
vehicle. I replaced the fuel pump, a tire, and a break caliper for
three things. I suppose my next step is to try some epoxy and that
anti-leak junk. Then, if necessary, and it well may be, replace the
freeze plugs.
Yes, I realize the maintenance of this truck wasn't the previous
drivers priority. I'm wondering how he drove it with so many things
failing.
It rained today in Kansas City. Tomorrow, I'm going dealing with this
truck again.
~~ Nehmo
Jeff Strickland
~~ Nehmo
<JS>
No reason why not.
Keep in mind that removing the exhaust manifold is generally a difficult
job. Once in a while it's easy, but not very often.
Good luck, and keep the carnage to busted knuckles because busted bolts is
no fun at all.
</JS>
jim beam
iow, "nobody told me what i wanted to hear, so i'm going to do what i
wanted to do before i asked the question".
bottom line - freeze plugs only leak if there's a serious problem. just
because you've spent some money doesn't mean you have to go spend a
bunch more. figure out what you're dealing with before you invest
another cent on this thing. if you don't have the experience to figure
it out, find someone who does.
--
nomina rutrum rutrum
Bob Cooper
m...@privacy.net says...
>
> On 09/15/2010 03:43 PM, Nehmo wrote:
> >> "Nehmo"<nehm...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> >>
> >> news:fc1f1421-da47-4dac...@e20g2000vbn.googlegroups.com...
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>> 1990 Ford F150 6 cyl 4.9L, or 300 cid, Fuel Injected Engine
> >>
> >>> I don't have a clear understanding of the history of this truck. The
> >>> owner is offering it to me to use if I can fix it. I really need a
> >>> vehicle now for work, so I'm trying my best to get it going.
> >>
> >>> After doing a number of repairs to the truck, and getting it going
> >>> sort-of, I discovered two leaking freeze plugs, the front and the rear
> >>> (on this inline 6). The leaks are too large to ignore, and the rear
> >>> one pours directly on the starter. (The truck is missing the radiator
> >>> because of constantly adding water, or he or she didn't want to
> >>> pressurize the cooling system.)
> >>
> >>> The freeze plugs are very hard to access. I'm not even sure it's even
> >>> possible to reach them with the engine still in the truck. So I'm
> >>> wondering, is it possible to change these freeze plugs without
> >>> removing the engine?
> >>
> >> It's possible, but you said you can't get at them, so it would not be
> >> possible in your case.
> >>
> >> If you are careful, you can pry the old plugs out with a screw driver, but
> >> you need a clear shot with a hammer to tap the new one(s) into place.
> >
> > From my point of view, the job doesn't look like a walk in the park.
> > But sometimes someone will have done the exact job and found it
> > possible or reasonably possible. I was hoping for someone to say
> > something like "You just take off the exhaust man, and then the plug
> > are easy". That would have been encouraging. Well, I'm going to try
> > it. Why not?
> >
> > ~~ Nehmo
>
> iow, "nobody told me what i wanted to hear, so i'm going to do what i
> wanted to do before i asked the question".
>
No.
Nobody here knew how best to replace the freeze plugs on that truck.
That includes you.
He's going after it without your advice, which was worthless anyway.
One minute into it he'll know more about how to replace the freeze plugs
in that that truck than you can dream of.
Then maybe he can advise the next guy who asks.
> bottom line - freeze plugs only leak if there's a serious problem. just
> because you've spent some money doesn't mean you have to go spend a
> bunch more. figure out what you're dealing with before you invest
> another cent on this thing. if you don't have the experience to figure
> it out, find someone who does.
The only "serious problem" mentioned here is one or more thin metal
freezes plug have rusted and are leaking.
That's his "serious problem."
It's common enough when the coolant isn't kept up to snuff.
He already said the thing was poorly maintained.
If he replaces the plugs and keeps a 50/50 mix he'll be fine with his
serious problem.
You got the "serious problems" all ass-backward.
Or maybe you want to invent problems that don't exist, and nobody else
mentioned.
jim beam
untrue - don't put false words in my mouth.
> He's going after it without your advice, which was worthless anyway.
> One minute into it he'll know more about how to replace the freeze plugs
> in that that truck than you can dream of.
> Then maybe he can advise the next guy who asks.
apparently you missed the bit about me not saying how to do replacement
for a reason.
>
>> bottom line - freeze plugs only leak if there's a serious problem. just
>> because you've spent some money doesn't mean you have to go spend a
>> bunch more. figure out what you're dealing with before you invest
>> another cent on this thing. if you don't have the experience to figure
>> it out, find someone who does.
>
> The only "serious problem" mentioned here is one or more thin metal
> freezes plug have rusted and are leaking.
> That's his "serious problem."
> It's common enough when the coolant isn't kept up to snuff.
> He already said the thing was poorly maintained.
> If he replaces the plugs and keeps a 50/50 mix he'll be fine with his
> serious problem.
> You got the "serious problems" all ass-backward.
> Or maybe you want to invent problems that don't exist, and nobody else
> mentioned.
ok, then when he reports back that the block is cracked and/or that a
piston is seized because of local heating caused by a blocked water
channel after years of the coolant not being "kept up to snuff", what
are you going to say? "oh, sorry, i wish i'd had more experience and
had bothered to assess the problem properly first", "uh, whoda thunkit"
or "just keep blindly spending money on it bud"?
fact: freeze plugs don't just leak unless there is a serious problem.
fact: every cent spent on not addressing that serious problem first is,
to use your own words, "ass-backward".
and i suspect you already knew that but just wanted to bitch.
--
nomina rutrum rutrum
cl...@snyder.on.ca
In25 years as a working mechanic, and another20 sinse, I've replaced a
LOT of seeping front plugs (technically they are "core plugs" on lots
of engines - Most of which had been neglected - but some that actually
rusted from the OUTSIDE in, with no coolant quality issues.
A VERY small percentage had other problems related to the plug
failures that showed up later, making the replacement of the plugs a
waste of money and effort. (like head gaskets).
Unless they had been seriously overheated, cracked heads and blocks
were almost never an issue.
If he's talking about the plugs on the side of the block, removing the
manifold on a 300 inline six makes replacement pretty straight forward
- and don't waste your money on the rubber plugs.
When the old plugs are popped out is a good time to flush the crap out
of the bottom of the cooling jackets - and then clean up the bores of
the core-plug holes, coat the plugs with Permatex Gasket Sealer, and
pop the new plugs in.
When you have the manifold off, replace all the plugs you can reach.
For the $4 or whatever they are worth, don't leave the middle one and
chance having to pull it again. Before replacing the manifold, fill
with water and pressure test.
Jeff Strickland
"Bob Cooper" <b...@nowhere.com> wrote in message
news:MPG.26fb54389...@news.eternal-september.org...
>
>> bottom line - freeze plugs only leak if there's a serious problem. just
>> because you've spent some money doesn't mean you have to go spend a
>> bunch more. figure out what you're dealing with before you invest
>> another cent on this thing. if you don't have the experience to figure
>> it out, find someone who does.
>
> The only "serious problem" mentioned here is one or more thin metal
> freezes plug have rusted and are leaking.
> That's his "serious problem."
... and as problemg go, this one isn't really very serious. Freeze plugs
fail for two reasons, they are pushed out because the block froze, or they
rotted. If they are pushed out because the block froze, they are doing their
job, and by definition this isn't a "problem." It's more of a pain in the
ass than a serious problem.
Frankly, fixing the freeze plugs from the bottom of the motor is the easiest
way. Put the truck on a lift and work on it from underneath. There should be
no need to remove the exhaust manifold from the head, but it might be
necessary to take the exhaust pipe off of the manifold -- remove the muffler
bearing -- and move it out of the way.
I don't think that there is enough JB Weld in the universe to fix a freeze
plug leak.
Cooper is on the right track here, Beam has jumped the rails.
Jeff Strickland
"jim beam" <m...@privacy.net> wrote in message
news:aoidnXGnfOT1PAzR...@speakeasy.net...
>
> fact: freeze plugs don't just leak unless there is a serious problem.
>
Now, the rest of the story ...
The FUNCTION of a freeze plug is to be the weak link in the event that the
coolant freezes. The plugs are supposed to be pushed out by the expansion of
frozen coolant. Freeze plugs can rot away or be pushed out, if they rot,
then the coolant really isn't coolant, it's water, and if they are pushed
out, again by freezing coolant that isn't really coolant, then they are
doing what they are designed to do. (Having just pointed my crroked little
finger at water, it's entirely possible that coolant/anti-freeze can
actually freeze, so perhaps the mixture of coolant and water is proper and
the freeze plugs leak anyway.)
Doing what the design intent is normally is not considered to be a problem.
You want frozen coolant to push the freeze plugs out because this is what
prevents the block from cracking, that's why there are freeze plugs in the
first place. I'm just saying ...
C. E. White
"Jeff Strickland" <crwl...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:i6tfct$qbb$1...@news.eternal-september.org...
Not really. People call them "freeze plugs" but they are are in the block
becasue they are needed to provide a means of locating the interior portions
of the sand casting molds (i.e., the core) and to allow the sand to be
cleaned out of the interior passages after the casting cools and the core
has been reduced to sand by vibrationg the casting. I suppose at some point
in history in some engine the plugs used to seal these opening must have
been pushed out when water in the block froze, but for modern engines they
are not designed-in to prevent the block from being damaged by frozen
coolant. I think you'd have to be very lucky to have an engine "saved" from
freeze damage by the core plugs. I think in most cases, if forzen coolant
pushed out the core plugs, you'd likely have more significant damage. I've
only ever seen one block damaged by frozen water and the core plugs weren't
pushed out at all - the whole side of the block had been pushed out and
cracked.
Ed
do...@36.usenet.us.com
> > > 1990 Ford F150 6 cyl 4.9L, or 300 cid, Fuel Injected Engine
> From my point of view, the job doesn't look like a walk in the park.
> But sometimes someone will have done the exact job and found it
> possible or reasonably possible. I was hoping for someone to say
> something like "You just take off the exhaust man, and then the plug
> are easy". That would have been encouraging. Well, I'm going to try
> it. Why not?
I replaced a leaking plug in the side of a 1967 Mustang 300 CID.
I don't remember how I got the old one out, but I was going to try prying
the new one into place with a "blue bar" without taking off the exhaust
manifold. That didn't work. After taking the manifold off, it was pretty
easy to put the new plug in. I would think an F150 would have more side
room than the Mustang, and wither one of them... you are working with a
straight six in an engine bay where a V8 fits, so I wouldn't expect any
maneuvering room problems.
There were another three or four years and quite a few miles put on that
car before it was sold. No hidden problems partially exposed by a leaking
piece of tin in a 30 year old car.
--
Clarence A Dold - Hidden Valley Lake, CA, USA GPS: 38.8,-122.5
cl...@snyder.on.ca
They are NOT frost plugs. They are CORE plugs. By the time they pop in
a freeze-up the head and/or block is often done. They are there to
facilitate removal of the sand casting cores. There location is
optimized for core removal, not for freeze damage protection.
cl...@snyder.on.ca
Your '67 mustang wasn't a 300. The 300 was NEVER installed in the
Mustang, or any other Ford passenger car in North America. The 'Stang
would have been either a 200 or a 240.
The installation problem remains - without removong the manifold
getting the new plug in is virtually impossible - and replace ALL FIVE
when you are at it.
E. Meyer
"cl...@snyder.on.ca" <cl...@snyder.on.ca> wrote:
From Mustangspecs.com for the '67 Mustang:
Available Engines:
200cid 6cyl 1V 120hp
289cid 2V V-8 200hp
289cid 4V V-8 225hp
289cid 4V V-8 271hp
390cid 4V V-8 320hp
cuh...@webtv.net
call freeze plugs, welch plugs.
cuhulin
hls
<cuh...@webtv.net> wrote in message
news:1033-4C92...@storefull-3172.bay.webtv.net...
>I have heard of some people using a coin for a freeze plug.Some people
> call freeze plugs, welch plugs.
> cuhulin
Ive never heard of that and wouldnt try it. Welch plugs are designed to fit
certain sized holes,
they have a lip to give sealing area friction, and are concave (from the
front) which gives it a
spring like function.
Welch plugs are cheap. There is no need to try to force a coin to do
something that it wasnt
made to do (unless you are in the jungle are are truly without
alternatives).
Kevin Bottorff
news:88c596l56fltofgh6...@4ax.com:
yep, no such thing as a freeze plug. that is a slang used by those that
don`t know any better. they are simply core plugs, nothing more. KB
cuh...@webtv.net
Brent
> In alt.autos.ford Nehmo <neh...@hotmail.com> wrote:
>> > > 1990 Ford F150 6 cyl 4.9L, or 300 cid, Fuel Injected Engine
>
>> From my point of view, the job doesn't look like a walk in the park.
>> But sometimes someone will have done the exact job and found it
>> possible or reasonably possible. I was hoping for someone to say
>> something like "You just take off the exhaust man, and then the plug
>> are easy". That would have been encouraging. Well, I'm going to try
>> it. Why not?
>
> I replaced a leaking plug in the side of a 1967 Mustang 300 CID.
typo or did someone actually put a truck six into a mustang?
Airport Shuttle
If there is room to swing a hammer its all good.
--
Airport Shuttle
'' (http://www.yourcityride.com)
Message origin: TRAVEL.com
hls
<cl...@snyder.on.ca> wrote in message
news:5fc596h3o2rfdcr90...@4ax.com...
> Your '67 mustang wasn't a 300. The 300 was NEVER installed in the
> Mustang, or any other Ford passenger car in North America. The 'Stang
> would have been either a 200 or a 240.
I dont believe the 240 I6 was offered.
The 200 straight six was available, the 289, the 289 HP, and the 390 v8, I
believe.
But the point is to strip the engine down to the point you can get at the
welch plugs,
and twist them out of there. I usually do it with a beat up screwdriver or
long punch.
Then use a suitable driver (or socket that you dont give a damn about) and
carefully
tap the new ones in.
As others have mentioned these are NOT freeze plugs. They are there to wash
out
the foundry sand after the block is cast, and for nothing else.
I dont really know when the 427 crossbolt was offered, if indeed it ever
was. I have heard
it was, but have never seen one. In 1968 I got one of the Hubert Platt 428
Cobrajets.
At the time, they said I could order a 427 but ONLY with 4 speed tranny, and
no warranty
worth discussing. Dealers here lie a lot.
cl...@snyder.on.ca
>
><cl...@snyder.on.ca> wrote in message
>news:5fc596h3o2rfdcr90...@4ax.com...
>
>> Your '67 mustang wasn't a 300. The 300 was NEVER installed in the
>> Mustang, or any other Ford passenger car in North America. The 'Stang
>> would have been either a 200 or a 240.
>
>I dont believe the 240 I6 was offered.
The 240 was available in everything except the Falcon and the Mustang
based on it. In 1969 the 250 cube 6 was available in the 'stang - but
you are right - never a 240, much less the 300. The ONLY six in '67
was the 200, as the 170 was history by then.(at least in the Mustang).
It was still available in the falcon until 1972.
>
>The 200 straight six was available, the 289, the 289 HP, and the 390 v8, I
>believe.
>
>But the point is to strip the engine down to the point you can get at the
>welch plugs,
>and twist them out of there. I usually do it with a beat up screwdriver or
>long punch.
>
>Then use a suitable driver (or socket that you dont give a damn about) and
>carefully
>tap the new ones in.
>
>As others have mentioned these are NOT freeze plugs. They are there to wash
>out
>the foundry sand after the block is cast, and for nothing else.
>
>I dont really know when the 427 crossbolt was offered, if indeed it ever
>was. I have heard
>it was, but have never seen one. In 1968 I got one of the Hubert Platt 428
>Cobrajets.
The 427 was (at least officially and theoretically) available in the
Mustang in 1968 - one year only and EXTREMELY rare. It was
(under-)rated at 390HP. I believe it was a "W" code and 2 or 3 may
have actually been produced before it was removed from the option list
in December of 1987. It was NOT available with a 4 speed - only
automatics were spec'ed. It was a $622 option
hls
<cl...@snyder.on.ca> wrote in message
news:k6c896pgm3fohl8kb...@4ax.com...
>
> The 427 was (at least officially and theoretically) available in the
> Mustang in 1968 - one year only and EXTREMELY rare. It was
> (under-)rated at 390HP. I believe it was a "W" code and 2 or 3 may
> have actually been produced before it was removed from the option list
> in December of 1987. It was NOT available with a 4 speed - only
> automatics were spec'ed. It was a $622 option
>>At the time, they said I could order a 427 but ONLY with 4 speed tranny,
>>and
>>no warranty
>>worth discussing. Dealers here lie a lot.
That is right.. The 427 was shown only with the automatic, and I believe
that was
a special automatic.
My 428 had a C6. but it was a special run of C6. Ford claimed that engine
actually
put out something over 400 hp, but I think it was specked at 390. Buying
that
car was one of the mistakes of my life.
Jim Warman
cold differ.
I have never seen a "freeze" plug push out to save the block... This isn't
the "job" of the plug anyway... see the post about "core plugs".
Put the truck on a lift... of course everyone has at least one of these
available... What part of the original post did we forget? This poor shmuck
is working in the dirt like an Arab...
"Jeff Strickland" <crwl...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:i6tes3$o7d$1...@news.eternal-september.org...
DogDiesel
"C. E. White" <cewh...@mindspring.com> wrote in message
news:i6lqs3$ngi$1...@news.eternal-september.org...
>
> "Nehmo" <neh...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> news:fc1f1421-da47-4dac...@e20g2000vbn.googlegroups.com...
>> 1990 Ford F150 6 cyl 4.9L, or 300 cid, Fuel Injected Engine
>>
>> owner is offering it to me to use if I can fix it. I really need a
>> vehicle now for work, so I'm trying my best to get it going.
>>
>> After doing a number of repairs to the truck, and getting it going
>> sort-of, I discovered two leaking freeze plugs, the front and the rear
>> (on this inline 6). The leaks are too large to ignore, and the rear
>> one pours directly on the starter. (The truck is missing the radiator
>> because of constantly adding water, or he or she didn't want to
>> pressurize the cooling system.)
>>
>> The freeze plugs are very hard to access. I'm not even sure it's even
>> possible to reach them with the engine still in the truck. So I'm
>> wondering, is it possible to change these freeze plugs without
>> removing the engine?
>
>
> lot easier to get to the freeze plugs if you are willing to take off the
> manifolds, which might be more of a job than you can handle (particularly
> the exhaust manifold). If you are trying to get a few more miles out of
> the truck, then it is a lot easier to repalce the existing freeze plugs
> with the rubber expansion type plugs (particualrly if you are not familar
> with the drive in type plugs). See
> http://www.dormanproducts.com/p-25890-24008.aspx for a picture of this
> type of plug. These are fairly cheap and not hard to install.
>
> The 4.9L Six is usually pretty rugged, but I would be worried about the
> condition if you have two freeze plugs leaking. The expansion freeze plugs
> are cheap ( around $4.00 each), so if you ahve the time, replacing two of
> them would not be particualrly expensive. However, I suspect as soon as
> you repalce the freeze plugs (and the radiator cap) and let pressure build
> up in the cooling system you will find addtional and possibly more
> significant problems. It is unusal for freeze plugs to rust through on a
> properly maintained engine of that age. Is it reasonable to think that
>
> There are pictures of a carburetted version of the engine at
> without taking off the manifolds, but I doubt I could get to the middle
> ones, especially on a 1990 fuel injected version of the engine unless I
> took off the manifolds.
>
> Ed
>
>
>
>
>
>> I'm not an auto mechanic, and I don't have a lot of tools. But I have
>> a mechanical aptitude, and if it can be done, I can do it. But I need
>> to know if it's reasonable to change them without removing the engine.
>> I need to know how to proceed. Someone with experience with the engine
>> would know.
>>
>> I have to decide on a course of action. I would appreciate any
>> recommendations. Has anybody changed these freeze plugs?
>>
>> It's a 1990 F150 with a 4.9L fuel injected engine.
>>
>> ~~ Nehmo
>
>
I either knock them sideways and pull them out and put new ones in. Or I
knock them sideways , pull them out and put the expansion type in.
A straight 6 is damn easier to get to then a V8.
DogDiesel
"Kevin Bottorff" <kevyN...@netins.net> wrote in message
news:i6uk6v$2eh$1...@news.albasani.net...
Exactly they dont stop blocks from cracking if froze. Its too remove the
sand .
Jeff Strickland
"Jim Warman" <mech...@telusplanet.net> wrote in message
news:lBjlo.950$89.280@edtnps83...
>I don't know where you live but imagine your idea of cold and my idea of
>cold differ.
>
> I have never seen a "freeze" plug push out to save the block... This isn't
> the "job" of the plug anyway... see the post about "core plugs".
>
> Put the truck on a lift... of course everyone has at least one of these
> available... What part of the original post did we forget? This poor
> shmuck is working in the dirt like an Arab...
>
>
I have seen exactly 3 freeze pugs fail in my 40+ years of automobile
ownership. None of the due to freezing, all of them from rotting from the
inside out.
dr_jeff
> I don't know where you live but imagine your idea of cold and my idea of
> cold differ.
>
> I have never seen a "freeze" plug push out to save the block... This isn't
> the "job" of the plug anyway... see the post about "core plugs".
>
> Put the truck on a lift... of course everyone has at least one of these
> available... What part of the original post did we forget? This poor shmuck
> is working in the dirt like an Arab...
This is an inappropriate ethnic slur.
If the OP doesn't have access to a safe lift, I hope the OP uses ramps
and is very careful to make sure that the vehicle can't come crashing
down on top of him. I knew of one mechanic where this happened. The
costumer came back to find the mechanic under the collapsed car. Instead
of calling for help (the nearest fire station is only blocks away), the
mechanic told the lady who owned the car how to lift the car back up
with the equipment. It worked - sort of - the car slipped off the jack
and killed him dead.
The morals of the story:
1) Always use proper equipment to lift a car.
2) Always make sure that the car is extremely stable before you get
under it. Always make sure that you're getting under the car unless
there are backup devices (I always made sure that there jackstands in
place in case the jack itself failed).
3) If there is an accident, always call in the professionals who know
how to remove people from accidents safely, especially when they are
just a few minutes away. Better have the professionals do it than have
someone die.
Jeff
cuh...@webtv.net
never be too safe.Always make sure you have something good and solid
under the wheel(s) And be sure the vehicle can NOT slip off.Don't use
any hollow cinder/concrete blocks.
cuhulin
hls
"Nehmo" <neh...@hotmail.com> wrote in message news:16f45989-f44d-44d2-a9b6-
I suppose my next step is to try some epoxy and that
anti-leak junk. Then, if necessary, and it well may be, replace the
freeze plugs.
****
That really is a lousy assed approach to a repair.
hls
"dr_jeff" <u...@msu.edu> wrote in message
news:jPKdnbeaZ_MWxQvR...@giganews.com...
>> Put the truck on a lift... of course everyone has at least one of these
>> available... What part of the original post did we forget? This poor
>> shmuck
>> is working in the dirt like an Arab...
>
> This is an inappropriate ethnic slur.
It isnt an ethnic slur at all. What would you prefer he say? Working on
the ground
like a sand flea?
Maybe you need to stay in an academic environment.. I am not sure that you
could
change a Welch plug in the real world. :>)
dr_jeff
>
> "dr_jeff" <u...@msu.edu> wrote in message
> news:jPKdnbeaZ_MWxQvR...@giganews.com...
>
>>> Put the truck on a lift... of course everyone has at least one of these
>>> available... What part of the original post did we forget? This poor
>>> shmuck
>>> is working in the dirt like an Arab...
>>
>> This is an inappropriate ethnic slur.
>
> It isnt an ethnic slur at all. What would you prefer he say? Working on
> the ground
> like a sand flea?
That would be better. Or how about lay on the ground?
If you don't think that's an ethnic slur, you're wrong.
Mike Y
Yeah, it may be the 'expert' is right.
But I've had motors over the years that the freeze plugs went with time,
with nothing else
wrong. I've had two vehicles with 200CID 6's that in both cases the read
freeze plug went. In both cases a big screwdriver got the plug out easily,
and in went an 'expandable' plug. Problem solved.
"jim beam" <m...@privacy.net> wrote in message
news:x8-dnShU5uNnEwzR...@speakeasy.net...
> iow, "nobody told me what i wanted to hear, so i'm going to do what i
> wanted to do before i asked the question".
>
> bottom line - freeze plugs only leak if there's a serious problem. just
> because you've spent some money doesn't mean you have to go spend a bunch
> more. figure out what you're dealing with before you invest another cent
> on this thing. if you don't have the experience to figure it out, find
> someone who does.
>
>
> --
> nomina rutrum rutrum
cl...@snyder.on.ca
Forget the epoxy - and the stopleak will not do the job for long - and
when KT lets go you will likely have a gusher. Either fix it or park
it.
Stanley Unwin
<cl...@snyder.on.ca> wrote in message
news:15ke96pcutkk8lftd...@4ax.com...
Stop leak additives are for emergencies. Anything actually effective
is absolutely guaranteed to clog the heater core, at minumum.
Brent
> On Fri, 17 Sep 2010 18:41:20 -0500, "hls" <h...@nospam.nix> wrote:
>
>>
>><cl...@snyder.on.ca> wrote in message
>>news:5fc596h3o2rfdcr90...@4ax.com...
>>
>>> Your '67 mustang wasn't a 300. The 300 was NEVER installed in the
>>> Mustang, or any other Ford passenger car in North America. The 'Stang
>>> would have been either a 200 or a 240.
>>
>>I dont believe the 240 I6 was offered.
>
> The 240 was available in everything except the Falcon and the Mustang
> based on it. In 1969 the 250 cube 6 was available in the 'stang - but
> you are right - never a 240, much less the 300. The ONLY six in '67
> was the 200, as the 170 was history by then.(at least in the Mustang).
> It was still available in the falcon until 1972.
240,300 are for trucks.
Cars got the 144,170,200,250 depending on year and model.
Kevin Bottorff
news:X_qdnWPCau85YQ7R...@giganews.com:
I know you could get the 427 in a 67 stang as one of my shop mates had
one back in 76. KB (you might call it just a tad tight fit though)
C. E. White
"Brent" <tetraethylle...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:i78bqj$unn$1...@news.eternal-september.org...
If you go back far enough, "full size" cars also got the 240. I think the
last "consumer" car usage of the 240 was the 1972 Full Size Ford (Custom;
Custom 500; Galaxie 500). I am pretty sure cars never got the 300 six.
The 144, 170, 200, 221 (overseas only), 250 Small six family originated as
an engine for the Falcon line of compact cars and Econoline vans. I think
it was never used in "full sized Fords" but was common in intermediate and
compact models.
Ed
cl...@snyder.on.ca
You are correct Ed
DogDiesel
>> I don't know where you live but imagine your idea of cold and my idea of
>> cold differ.
>>
>> I have never seen a "freeze" plug push out to save the block... This
>> isn't
>> the "job" of the plug anyway... see the post about "core plugs".
>>
>> Put the truck on a lift... of course everyone has at least one of these
>> available... What part of the original post did we forget? This poor
>> shmuck
>> is working in the dirt like an Arab...
>
> This is an inappropriate ethnic slur.
There are no inappropriate ethnic slurs.
hls
> On 9/19/10 9:09 PM, hls wrote:
>>
>> "dr_jeff" <u...@msu.edu> wrote in message
>> news:jPKdnbeaZ_MWxQvR...@giganews.com...
>>
>>>> Put the truck on a lift... of course everyone has at least one of these
>>>> available... What part of the original post did we forget? This poor
>>>> shmuck
>>>> is working in the dirt like an Arab...
>>>
>>> This is an inappropriate ethnic slur.
>>
>> It isnt an ethnic slur at all. What would you prefer he say? Working on
>> the ground
>> like a sand flea?
>
> That would be better. Or how about lay on the ground?
And I guess if you had to LIE on the ground (not "lay") in the snow,
and someone said you were working like an Eskimo mechanic, you
would think that is an ethnic slur???
We wont even get into the term "shade tree mechanic".
You take yourself all too seriously.
samye...@gmail.com
> 1990 Ford F150 6 cyl 4.9L, or 300 cid, Fuel Injected Engine
>
> I don't have a clear understanding of the history of this truck. The
> owner is offering it to me to use if I can fix it. I really need a
> vehicle now for work, so I'm trying my best to get it going.
>
> After doing a number of repairs to the truck, and getting it going
> sort-of, I discovered two leaking freeze plugs, the front and the rear
> (on this inline 6). The leaks are too large to ignore, and the rear
> one pours directly on the starter. (The truck is missing the radiator
> cap; this is probably because the former user misplaced the cap
> because of constantly adding water, or he or she didn't want to
> pressurize the cooling system.)
>
> The freeze plugs are very hard to access. I'm not even sure it's even
> possible to reach them with the engine still in the truck. So I'm
> wondering, is it possible to change these freeze plugs without
> removing the engine?
>
> a mechanical aptitude, and if it can be done, I can do it. But I need
> to know if it's reasonable to change them without removing the engine.
> I need to know how to proceed. Someone with experience with the engine
> would know.
>
> I have to decide on a course of action. I would appreciate any
> recommendations. Has anybody changed these freeze plugs?
>
> It's a 1990 F150 with a 4.9L fuel injected engine.
>
> ~~ Nehmo