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Ford F150 rear right BRAKE light problem

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papadad

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May 7, 2006, 10:43:37 PM5/7/06
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1976 Ford F150 pickup truck is having rear right brake light problem.
The rear right brake light does not come on during braking. it also
does not come on during hazard flasher use.

1. Rear, right and left RUNNING lights work fine.
2. Rear, right and left TURN signals work fine.
3. Rear LEFT brake light works fine
4. Rear RIGHT brake light does NOT work
5. Hazard lights work EXCEPT for RIGHT...which does NOT light up.

I have changed bulbs, flashers, and tested the socket and wiring up to
the connector under the tailgate and the bulbs etc are fine. Since
both directionals are working, and the directionals use the SAME
filament as the brake, I know it is something else.

Any ideas? How to chase down this gremlin. Spent all day
cutting/splicing/trying to islolate the problem to no avail.

Any ford techs on here can help?

Message has been deleted

papadad

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May 8, 2006, 1:35:16 AM5/8/06
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Anyone have a wiring diagram to explain what the 4 wires from the front
of the vehicle to the rear bumper do? I am guessing that one is brake,
one is left turn, one is right turn, and one is reverse. am I on
the right track? And also a wiring diagram from those 4 wires to the
2 brake lights (2 filaments each)? Is the TURN signal (blink
on/off) on the same line as the BRAKE signal? Does my question even
make sense?

Alan

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May 8, 2006, 2:50:31 AM5/8/06
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I've always wondered what the mechanism was on how the turn signal
overrides the brake light signal.

Kevin

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May 8, 2006, 4:01:24 AM5/8/06
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"papadad" <K7...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1147066515....@u72g2000cwu.googlegroups.com...

From memory, The brown wire is running /park lights. The yellow is left
turn/brake light. The green is right turn/brake. Purple is back-up lights.
Same bulb filament is used for brake and turn signal.
Make sure the bulb is an 1157 bulb, and is inserted correctly. Also make
sure any trailer wiring that has been added on is connected correctly.


--
Kevin Mouton
Automotive Technology Instructor
"If women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy"
Red Green


Nate Nagel

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May 8, 2006, 5:35:52 AM5/8/06
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It's built into the turn signal switch. With the lever in the "neutral"
position, both rear lights are connected to the output of the brake
light switch. When you signal a lane change, one of the lights is
disconnected from the brake light switch and connected to the output of
the turn signal flasher.

nate

--
replace "fly" with "com" to reply.
http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel

Dan_Thom...@yahoo.com

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May 8, 2006, 8:57:13 AM5/8/06
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Most common problem with brake or tail lights is a bad
ground. The light assembly is grounded to the body, and road salt or
other junk causes corrosion at the connection and ruins it.

Dan

Mike Romain

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May 8, 2006, 10:11:06 AM5/8/06
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Your common issue seems to be with the emergency flasher. I would be
checking out that switch for a bad connection. The hazards and brake
lights are on the same fuse likely so are on the same wiring circuit.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

papadad

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May 8, 2006, 2:41:41 PM5/8/06
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Thanks to those who replied.

1) there are no trailer wires
2) all grounds are good, re-done, new etc. So not a ground problem
3) flasher itself (both turn and hazard) are working normally so not
the flasher
4) i actually re-wired (temporarily) the RIGHT lights to the LEFT
lights (in parallel) and everything works...further confirming it's not
something ike a light bulb or a bad ground at the bulb socket.

The above post gives me a real (not a guess) lead -- I now suspect the
trouble is in the turn signal switch itself - with the lever in
neutral, both rear lights SHOULD be connected to the output of the
brake light switch. But one is not lighting...maybe the turn signal
switch on the steering column is faulty. It would also explain why,
when using either right or left TURN (when the switch is in turn mode,
not neutral positiong) that the rear lights each blink properly, ie,
the wiring and the bulb and the socket are all functioning
NORMALLY...also, no fuses are blowing so there is not a short anywhere.
Remembering that the Blink and Brake are on the SAME circuit.
So...somehow the TURN position is working but the BRAKE position
(right side) is NOT.

I bet a dozen donuts it's a faulty turn signal switch. This is the
best thing to go on, thus far, i mean, logically this makes perfect
sense and the reason why I found no probems in the rear-end wiring
after hunting for 2 to 3 hours the other day. No problem to be found
back there....

Any other thoughts?

papadad

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May 8, 2006, 2:50:48 PM5/8/06
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Yep - I bet the turn signal switch "Neutral" position is bad. Try
dis-assembling, cleaning, or at least wiggle it around a bit.

Mike Romain

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May 8, 2006, 4:35:24 PM5/8/06
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Your hazards and brakes should be on the same 'fuse' circuit I think.
The turn signals have their own fuse. Same bulbs and wires going on
back so that part is fine, but their power supplies are different... My
bet is on the hazard switch...

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

William J. Ford

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May 10, 2006, 1:10:46 AM5/10/06
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Replace the signal switch. And if you are connecting a trailer, make sure
the trailer is not overloading the circuit.


"papadad" <K7...@yahoo.com> wrote in message

news:1147056217....@i40g2000cwc.googlegroups.com...

papadad

unread,
May 11, 2006, 8:23:13 PM5/11/06
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So, how do I get into the steering column to get to the turn signal
switch. Tried to remove the steering wheel but can't get it unstuck.

Kevin

unread,
May 11, 2006, 8:55:20 PM5/11/06
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"papadad" <K7...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1147393393.9...@y43g2000cwc.googlegroups.com...

> So, how do I get into the steering column to get to the turn signal
> switch. Tried to remove the steering wheel but can't get it unstuck.
>

Get a very strong friend to pull hard..... <grin>

Actually:

Steering wheel puller, sold at most parts supply stores. Cheap ones are
under 10 dollars, but may not work well on a really tight steering wheel.
Good ones are about 40 dollars.

Rodan

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May 11, 2006, 11:05:24 PM5/11/06
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"papadad" wrote:

How do I get into the steering column to get to the turn signal


switch. Tried to remove the steering wheel but can't get it unstuck.

________________________________________________________

It usually takes a wheel puller tool to get a steering wheel off.

Sometimes the contacts in a turn signal switch are intermittent
due to corrosion, dirt, or grease. Before removing the wheel,
try spraying electronic parts cleaner (some people use WD-40)
into the turn signal switch through the side of the steering
column while repeatedly (20-40 times) exercising the turn signal
lever through its range of motion.

Good luck.

Rodan.


rbenav...@gmail.com

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Jan 8, 2017, 3:16:03 PM1/8/17
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i just fixed my problem. thwires at the connector were broken. the insulation was still ok, but the wire was not making contact. bypass the connector and test the filaments with a testlight.

Scott Dorsey

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Jan 8, 2017, 4:31:51 PM1/8/17
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<rbenav...@gmail.com> wrote:
>On Thursday, May 11, 2006 at 10:05:24 PM UTC-5, Rodan wrote:
>> "papadad" wrote:
>>
>> How do I get into the steering column to get to the turn signal
>> switch. Tried to remove the steering wheel but can't get it unstuck.
>> ________________________________________________________
>>
>> It usually takes a wheel puller tool to get a steering wheel off.
>>
>> Sometimes the contacts in a turn signal switch are intermittent
>> due to corrosion, dirt, or grease. Before removing the wheel,
>> try spraying electronic parts cleaner (some people use WD-40)
>> into the turn signal switch through the side of the steering
>> column while repeatedly (20-40 times) exercising the turn signal
>> lever through its range of motion.
>>
>
>i just fixed my problem. thwires at the connector were broken. the insulation was still ok, but the wire was not making contact. bypass the connector and test the filaments with a testlight.

Did it really take you ten years to fix it?
--scott
--
"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."

Paul in Houston TX

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Jan 8, 2017, 6:18:23 PM1/8/17
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I was wondering the same thing.

johnny smithers

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Jan 8, 2017, 6:48:38 PM1/8/17
to
Paul in Houston TX wrote:

>>> i just fixed my problem. thwires at the connector were
>>> broken. the insulation was still ok, but the wire was not
>>> making contact. bypass the connector and test the
>>> filaments with a testlight.
>>
>> Did it really take you ten years to fix it?
>> --scott
>
> I was wondering the same thing.

I've had some problems that took over a year to figure out,
but never as long as this poor guy. Hope it stays fixed!


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