Wheel Rims - Center Hole Important?
Findeis Peter M
I have 4 rims, 5 1/2 X 14 JJ , from two different cars.
All 4 rims have the same 5 hole bolt pattern, and same
offsets BUT 2 rims have a center hole approx. 3.25" diameter
and 2 rims have a center hole approx. 3.85" diameter.
(The center hole is the round hole right smack in the center of
the mounting holes and slips over the wheel bearing cap.)
The present car I want to put the wheel rims on, normally has wheels
with a 3.25 " diameter center hole.
The question is: can I safely mount the rims with the larger
center hole (3.85" diameter) on my present car or should I
go to the trouble of making a center adapter?
Does the edge of that center hole take some of the load
off of the 5 wheel mounting bolts when the wheel is
under high stress conditions?
-Pete
Wes Fujii
: Does the edge of that center hole take some of the load
: off of the 5 wheel mounting bolts when the wheel is
: under high stress conditions?
Yes. That hole is there to take the load of the vehicle weight
on the wheel. The weight of the wheel is not supposed to be
supported in shear by the studs. Because of the threads on the
studs, there are lots of places where failure can propagate, plus
the stud is already in tension. You might also expect that the
nuts or bolts might work loose if the wheel is not supported
correctly by its center.
I wouldn't do it. It's not worth the risk.
Wes Fujii
________________________________________________________________
___ ___ ___
/ / / // /
/ /__/ // / A real motor is an Oldsmobile Rocket 455
/ HURST // / "This is NOT the new generation of Olds"
/ / / // /_______
/__/ /__// // ___ \
/ // / \ \ Wes "BANZAI" Fujii
/ // /OLDS/ / Boise, Idaho
/ / \ \___/ / we...@hpdmd48.boi.hp.com
/__/ \_______/
Athos
>Findeis Peter M (fin...@coral.bucknell.edu) wrote:
>
>: Does the edge of that center hole take some of the load
>: off of the 5 wheel mounting bolts when the wheel is
>: under high stress conditions?
>
>Yes. That hole is there to take the load of the vehicle weight
>on the wheel. The weight of the wheel is not supposed to be
>supported in shear by the studs. Because of the threads on the
>studs, there are lots of places where failure can propagate, plus
>the stud is already in tension. You might also expect that the
>nuts or bolts might work loose if the wheel is not supported
>correctly by its center.
>
>I wouldn't do it. It's not worth the risk.
>
>Wes Fujii
The center hole is not the same size as the bearing cap. It's larger.
The weight of the car is borne by the spindle. It goes through the
wheels to the ground via the bearings in your rotor. The lugs also hold
the wheel to the rotor by friction, as well as shear.
Joe
Eric Zeto
(Findeis Peter M) wrote:
When I had new rims installed (4-bolt) all four rims had
larger 'center holes' than the spindle on my car. The installer
said that you can go with kust installing them on the lugs,
but he felt that for the most stability and least wear and tear
a set of adapters or reinforcer rings should be used. A local
wheel shop should have them for about $2-$3 each.
> -Pete
--
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| _) / \
(c ,____\ / ...What's more, you'll |
| (__( < be a man my son... |
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/__ __\ \______________________/
Wes Fujii
: The center hole is not the same size as the bearing cap. It's larger.
: The weight of the car is borne by the spindle. It goes through the
: wheels to the ground via the bearings in your rotor. The lugs also hold
: the wheel to the rotor by friction, as well as shear.
Maybe I'm misunderstanding what "hole" the original poster is talking
about. I assumed that it was the hole in the wheel that is a slip
fit over the spindle or wheel flange (I think we're talking about the
same thing, here). Every stock application that I've seen has this fit
very close between the wheel and the spindle or flange. I agree that
the hole in the wheel is much larger than the bearing dust cap (but I
don't think that's what he was trying to get at). I still say that the
lugs "job" is not to support the weight of the vehicle, but to hold the
wheel on and help transfer the torque from power or braking. If I'm
still incorrect, please correct me.
Mike Graham
WF>still incorrect, please correct me.
I'm not *saying* you're incorrect, but I'm suggesting the possibility;
since the lug nuts have that lovely countersunk design, the weight
would be taken evenly by all lugs, and I suspect that they are 'first
catch' for weight bearing. The center post certainly helps, but I'd
guess that you can run with an oversize with no problems.
Just a guess.
Mike Graham
* SLMR 2.1 #T348 * In a jam? Try peanut butter.
Wes Fujii
: the center hole simply provides clearance for the hub
: -center. I base this assertion on the fact that heavy truck (most 3/4-ton
: pickups up to 18-wheelers) have goodly-amounts of clearnace between the hub and
: the center-hole of the road-wheel... of course, they also have more than 5
: studs...
Walt, good to hear from you again...
I think I'll retract my previous statement about the "necessity" of the
center-hole fitting the flange. After working through the math, I have
decided that there is more than ample hold-down friction in the assembly
without the necessity of a load-bearing feature. After some casual
thought, I've decided that the hole-to-flange feature must be some
sort of liability thing. That is, the manufacturers are putting the
features in just in case the wheels are not installed quite correctly,
as in 1) not torqued down properly, 2) damaged or missing nuts
3) damaged or missing studs (or bolts in some cases), 4) damaged or
otherwise imperfect wheel-to-flange interface, 5) debris or oil between
the wheel and flange and 6) other. I can picture a large class action
suit being awarded against a manufacturer if they delete the features,
knowing full well that they could have avoided accidents by negligent
vehicle owners or service persons. The likelyhood of these things
happening is much lower on commercial and heavy rigs, because those
owners pay more attention to vehicle technicalities than the average
automotive owner does.
How does that answer sound? Too much legal (yuck) logic?
Speed Freak
>In article <CzBFB...@boi.hp.com> we...@boi.hp.com (Wes Fujii) writes:
>>Findeis Peter M (fin...@coral.bucknell.edu) wrote:
>>: Does the edge of that center hole take some of the load
>>: off of the 5 wheel mounting bolts when the wheel is
>>: under high stress conditions?
>>Yes. That hole is there to take the load of the vehicle weight
>>on the wheel. The weight of the wheel is not supposed to be
>>supported in shear by the studs. Because of the threads on the
>>studs, there are lots of places where failure can propagate, plus
>>the stud is already in tension.
>I disagree... strongly... the center hole simply provides clearance for the hub
>-center. I base this assertion on the fact that heavy truck (most 3/4-ton
>pickups up to 18-wheelers) have goodly-amounts of clearnace between the hub and
>the center-hole of the road-wheel... of course, they also have more than 5
>studs...
This thread is of interest to me as I also want to swap some wheels
between cars. I had a look at several cars and the centre hole does not
always fit snugly over the hub centre. In fact on 2 cars I own that have
aftermarket wheels supposedly correct for the car there is about 1/4"
clearance between hub centre and wheel centre hole. If it was important
then surely the wheel vendor would not do this ?
Ian
--
"We have no power to prevent ourselves being born; but we can rectify this
error - for it is sometimes an error." -- Friedrich Nietzsche
Ian Crocker i...@btcase.bt.co.uk
JOHN HORNER
quality aftermarket rims from others is that the best rims either are
machined for the specific vehicle or have inserts for the specific
vehicle you buy it for.
If you have the insert type rims, it may be possible to change the insert
out for a proper fit on your car.
-
JOHN HORNER GNK...@prodigy.com
Bill Bard
In article <Czq6x...@boi.hp.com> we...@boi.hp.com (Wes Fujii) writes:
>Walter A. Koziarz (koz...@halibut.nosc.mil) wrote:
>: the center hole simply provides clearance for the hub
>Walt, good to hear from you again...
>
> That is, the manufacturers are putting the...
>features in just in case the wheels are not installed quite correctly,
>as in 1) not torqued down properly, 2) damaged or missing nuts
>3) damaged or missing studs (or bolts in some cases), 4) damaged or
>otherwise imperfect wheel-to-flange interface, 5) debris or oil between
>the wheel and flange and 6) other. I can picture a large class action
>suit being awarded against a manufacturer if they delete the features,
>knowing full well that they could have avoided accidents by negligent
>vehicle owners or service persons. The likelyhood of these things
>happening is much lower on commercial and heavy rigs, because those
>owners pay more attention to vehicle technicalities than the average
>automotive owner does.
>
>How does that answer sound? Too much legal (yuck) logic?
>
>Wes Fujii
>
I agree with you Wes. I had a '74 Mercury Bobcat and the right
rear wheel (the first time) had to be hammered off. It had stuck to the
axle flange. Obviously Ford made the axle flange/wheel opening fit tight
for exactly the reasons you've sited.
See you,
Bill
--
Bill Bard, Workstation Engineering
AT&T Global Information Solutions bill...@waterloo.ncr.com
580 Weber St. N. Voice: (519) 884-1710 ext.717
Waterloo, ON., N2J 4G5 FAX: (519) 884-0610
NTWK...@bcsc02.gov.bc.ca
w...@53iss6.Waterloo.NCR.COM (Bill Bard) writes:
>
>SNIP
>
>In article <Czq6x...@boi.hp.com> we...@boi.hp.com (Wes Fujii) writes:
>>Walter A. Koziarz (koz...@halibut.nosc.mil) wrote:
>
>>: the center hole simply provides clearance for the hub
>>Walt, good to hear from you again...
>>
>> That is, the manufacturers are putting the...
>>features in just in case the wheels are not installed quite correctly,
>>as in 1) not torqued down properly, 2) damaged or missing nuts
>>3) damaged or missing studs (or bolts in some cases), 4) damaged or
>>otherwise imperfect wheel-to-flange interface, 5) debris or oil between
>>the wheel and flange and 6) other. I can picture a large class action
>>Wes Fujii
>>
> I agree with you Wes. I had a '74 Mercury Bobcat and the right
>rear wheel (the first time) had to be hammered off. It had stuck to the
>axle flange. Obviously Ford made the axle flange/wheel opening fit tight
>for exactly the reasons you've sited.
> See you,
> Bill
>
only ones to have oversize center holes.
My '82 Corolla SR5 had a steel 4 spoke mag. The centre
hole was about 4 or 5 cm from the drum/spindle flange at
the end of a coneshaped extension. Made machine balancing
interesting 'cause the rims wouldn't fit alot of machines.
Another example is the old VW Beetles (I think) whichhad
a center hole that wasn't even round. It looked wavy cross
and had a wide bolt pattern. Hard to describe but if you've
seen one you'll know what I mean. Can A VW guru give some more
information? I'm not sure these rims were off a Beetle.
Standard disclaimers apply. Possibly some non-standard ones as well.
Melvin Willis ntwk...@bcsc02.gov.bc.ca
Network Information Systems
BC Systems Corporation Victoria, British Columbia, Canada
Funj
: koz...@halibut.nosc.mil (Walter A. Koziarz) writes:
: >In article <CzBFB...@boi.hp.com> we...@boi.hp.com (Wes Fujii) writes:
: >>Findeis Peter M (fin...@coral.bucknell.edu) wrote:
: >>: Does the edge of that center hole take some of the load
: >>: off of the 5 wheel mounting bolts when the wheel is
: >>: under high stress conditions?
: >>Yes. That hole is there to take the load of the vehicle weight
: >>on the wheel. The weight of the wheel is not supposed to be
: >>supported in shear by the studs. Because of the threads on the
: >>studs, there are lots of places where failure can propagate, plus
: >>the stud is already in tension.
: >I disagree... strongly... the center hole simply provides clearance for the hub
: >-center. I base this assertion on the fact that heavy truck (most 3/4-ton
: >pickups up to 18-wheelers) have goodly-amounts of clearnace between the hub and
: >the center-hole of the road-wheel... of course, they also have more than 5
: >studs...
: This thread is of interest to me as I also want to swap some wheels
: between cars. I had a look at several cars and the centre hole does not
: always fit snugly over the hub centre. In fact on 2 cars I own that have
: aftermarket wheels supposedly correct for the car there is about 1/4"
: clearance between hub centre and wheel centre hole. If it was important
: then surely the wheel vendor would not do this ?
I recently switched out the wheels off my 91 Accord to a set
of 15" MSW 5 spoke wheels. Well, when the wheels came (through
the mail), it had rings already installed on the center hole/hub
of the wheels and not knowing that they were not the right ones for
my car, I just took off my old set of wheels and put the new
ones on. The result was, the new set of wheels were not sitting
flush with wheel mounting on the brakes/center hub of the car. It
was about umm.. 1/4 - 1/2" apart. What happened?... I got a set of
4 very wobbly wheels and rattling sounds comming for the wheels
although I tightened the lug nuts very well. I took it to the
tire dealer and he said that I needed to get the right rings
for my wheels to solve the problem.. so I called up the place
where I got my wheels from and they sent me the right set of
rings this time. Well, I got the center rings changed out
and the wobbling and the rattling is gone... so I guess
that it is very important to have the right "fit" for
the hub center and wheel center hole ..... I learned it the
hard way.
Funj
--
==========================================================
| FUN JIN LIM |
| . Information Systems and Operations Management - IT |
| . Management - management |
==========================================================
Frank Klein
: My '82 Corolla SR5 had a steel 4 spoke mag. The centre
: hole was about 4 or 5 cm from the drum/spindle flange at
: the end of a coneshaped extension. Made machine balancing
: interesting 'cause the rims wouldn't fit alot of machines.
:
: Another example is the old VW Beetles (I think) whichhad
: a center hole that wasn't even round. It looked wavy cross
: and had a wide bolt pattern. Hard to describe but if you've
: seen one you'll know what I mean. Can A VW guru give some more
: information? I'm not sure these rims were off a Beetle.
:
Yes, they were. The lug bolts were on the outer portion of the front drum.
The hole in the center was 7" or so wide, and the lug holes in the wheel
were slightly closer to the center of the wheel than that... in other words,
the center hole was not round, but sort-of resembled a reverse asterisk.
My Bug is the later 4-lug design, and these came both with and without the
hubcentric things. The most notable thing about these IMHO was that they
helped you line up the hole in the drum and in the wheel to get the lug in
(Bugs, like many German cars, use lug bolts.) Without these, you have to lift
the tire and support it while you hand thread the lug nut.
When I replaced the front drums, I opted for the ringless ones, because they
make the bearing dust covers easier to pry off. I was told that these were
an aid to making sure the wheel was centered. Apparently, people are not so
good about tightening the lug nuts sequentially, or using a torque wrench,f or
that matter. In fact, most shops (gack!) use air impact wrenches (gack!) to
tighten these. This can allow the wheel not to center properly.
I always torque the lugs to 20, 40, 60, 80, then 90 ft-lbs, in the crisscross
pattern (all to 20, then all to 30... etc)... I'm a perfectionist, and this
way works well.
Frank
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Frank Klein a.k.a. fkl...@orion.csci.csusb.edu Cal State Univ San Bernardino
et...@cleveland.freenet.edu +------------------
"Best car ever made: VW Beetle" -- Automobile Magazine | '72 Super Beetle
Any opinions expressed are the correct ones. | '90 cat
-------------------------------------------------------------+------------------
Steven Eugene Pairo
: >: Does the edge of that center hole take some of the load
: >: off of the 5 wheel mounting bolts when the wheel is
: >: under high stress conditions?
: >Yes. That hole is there to take the load of the vehicle weight
: >on the wheel. The weight of the wheel is not supposed to be
: >supported in shear by the studs. Because of the threads on the
: >studs, there are lots of places where failure can propagate, plus
: >the stud is already in tension. You might also expect that the
: >nuts or bolts might work loose if the wheel is not supported
: >correctly by its center.
: >I wouldn't do it. It's not worth the risk.
: I disagree... strongly... the center hole simply provides clearance for the hub
: -center. I base this assertion on the fact that heavy truck (most 3/4-ton
: pickups up to 18-wheelers) have goodly-amounts of clearnace between the hub and
: the center-hole of the road-wheel... of course, they also have more than 5
: studs...
: Walt K.
The center of the wheel is a load-bearing area, BUT most
wheels do not rest on the threads of the studs but rather on a shoulder,
thus weight is carried in both areas. This holds true for both cars and
trucks. As for heavy duty vehicles, I work as a bus mechanic, and wheels
should not have any appreciable gap between the center hole and the hub.
If this is the case, then one must question the upkeep of the vehicle.
Steve
Rick Colombo
>>In article <CzBFB...@boi.hp.com> we...@boi.hp.com (Wes Fujii) writes:
>>>Findeis Peter M (fin...@coral.bucknell.edu) wrote:
>
>>>: Does the edge of that center hole take some of the load
>>>: off of the 5 wheel mounting bolts when the wheel is
>>>: under high stress conditions?
>
>>>Yes. That hole is there to take the load of the vehicle weight
>>>on the wheel. The weight of the wheel is not supposed to be
>>>supported in shear by the studs. Because of the threads on the
>>>studs, there are lots of places where failure can propagate, plus
>>>the stud is already in tension.
>
>>I disagree... strongly... the center hole simply provides clearance for the hub
>>-center. I base this assertion on the fact that heavy truck (most 3/4-ton
>>pickups up to 18-wheelers) have goodly-amounts of clearnace between the hub and
>>the center-hole of the road-wheel... of course, they also have more than 5
>>studs...
>
Correct. I have a 4wd truck and the front rotor does NOT have a centering
edge for the wheel to sit on. I set the tire/wheel on the locking hub, but
then I have to lift it up to get it on the lug bolts. Also, when I tighten
the nuts, the wheel moves/centers itself and is no longer resting on the
studs directly, but this may not matter all that much. The rear wheels have
the centering hub as described above, but I'm not sure if the clearance is
such that the wheel rests on it. Maybe 1/2 ton trucks use stronger studs ;-).
RC
Nathan J. Nagel
Hol.. by Walter A. Koziarz@halibu
> >Findeis Peter M (fin...@coral.bucknell.edu) wrote:
>
> >: Does the edge of that center hole take some of the load
> >: off of the 5 wheel mounting bolts when the wheel is
> >: under high stress conditions?
>
> >Yes. That hole is there to take the load of the vehicle weight
> >on the wheel. The weight of the wheel is not supposed to be
> >supported in shear by the studs. Because of the threads on the
> >studs, there are lots of places where failure can propagate, plus
> >nuts or bolts might work loose if the wheel is not supported
> >correctly by its center.
>
> >I wouldn't do it. It's not worth the risk.
>
for the hu
> b
> -center. I base this assertion on the fact that heavy truck (most 3/4-ton
> pickups up to 18-wheelers) have goodly-amounts of clearnace between
the hub an
> d
> the center-hole of the road-wheel... of course, they also have more than 5
> studs...
>
I just have to put my two cents in here - on my '71 Porsche 914, the
back wheels definitely are supported by the studs only, as the mounting
flange is completely flat. Then again, the car weighs less than the
engine in my dad's truck. (well, almost.) I have heard recommendations
that on cars whose wheels DO fit tightly around the rotor/axle/whatever,
you should use tight-fitting wheels to ensure perfect "hubcentricity,"
i.e. zero runout. YMMV.
Nate
ObMyCarDoesn'tWorkRight - I just brought aforementioned Porsche home
this weekend and was changing the tires around (to fix a couple leaky
valvestems) and found that some of the threaded holes in the hubs (for
the lug bolts ?!?!?! wassupwitdat?) were buggered - not visible to the
naked eye, but took a lot of torque to tighten the bolts down - probably
because a couple of the ones that were in there were too short for the
alloy wheels that were installed. Anyone know a cheap source for a
metric tap 'n' die set? And I'm kinda annoyed... Got the car home and
the throttle cable stuck... nice happy car sitting in my driveway and it
just sits there clattering away at 1500 RPM no matter what. I want to
drive it! grr.... and I won't be home until xmas.. i.e. snow.... grr
grr...
Nathan J. Nagel
have any kind of fixture other than the lug bolts to hold the wheel in
place... does this mean that I shouldn't use anti-sieze on the back of
my (factory) alloy rims? Anybody know if these wheels are any more/less
prone to stick than any others? I'd think that due to the small contact
area and the ease of shearing it off (no studs, just lower the car and
it should shear right off...) I should be OK without it, but I'd hate to
f**k up the mounting part of my wheels... I just got the car, don't
worry, I haven't screwed up anything (yet) but I'd really like to know,
as it'd suck if my wheel started doing crazy things in the middle of a
70MPH sweeper... TIA,
Nate
acss...@eku.acs.eku.edu
> In article <CzBFB...@boi.hp.com> we...@boi.hp.com (Wes Fujii) writes:
>
>>: Does the edge of that center hole take some of the load
>>: off of the 5 wheel mounting bolts when the wheel is
>>: under high stress conditions?
>
>>Yes. That hole is there to take the load of the vehicle weight
>>on the wheel. The weight of the wheel is not supposed to be
>>supported in shear by the studs. Because of the threads on the
>>studs, there are lots of places where failure can propagate, plus
>>the stud is already in tension. You might also expect that the
>>nuts or bolts might work loose if the wheel is not supported
>>correctly by its center.
>
>>I wouldn't do it. It's not worth the risk.
>
> -center. I base this assertion on the fact that heavy truck (most 3/4-ton
> pickups up to 18-wheelers) have goodly-amounts of clearnace between the hub and
> the center-hole of the road-wheel... of course, they also have more than 5
> studs...
>
> Walt K.
I have to side with Walt on this one. I have seen several vehicles that
don't use the center hole. One in particular is the rear axle on Toyota
4x4s. Also the hubs on my boat trailer don't have even a hint of flange
for the wheel center to rest on. This trailer is rated at 6500-7000
pounds on four wheels - 5 lugs each. Far more than the average car or
mini truck will usually weigh. Plus the twisting action of turning a
multiple axle trailer puts a tremendous strain on the suspension, tires,
wheels, lugs, etc. The lug studs are sufficient to center and hold
almost all vehicle wheels. Spend some time loafing at a tire shop... you
will find varying degrees of clearance from one vehicle to another.
However, almost all farm tractors fit the center snugly... very snugly.
I'm not sure of the reason for this, but I think it is due to the fact
that they usually use wheel bolts rather studs and lug nuts. It would be
very difficult to install tires weighing 500 pounds or more without lugs
or center hole indexing.
dsc
Dudley Cornman - Systems Programmer
Academic Computing Services
Eastern Ky. University
Richmond, KY 40475-3111
(606) 622-1986
Henry H Hansteen
: In article <1994Nov17.1...@nosc.mil>, koz...@halibut.nosc.mil (Walter A. Koziarz) writes:
: > In article <CzBFB...@boi.hp.com> we...@boi.hp.com (Wes Fujii) writes:
: >>Findeis Peter M (fin...@coral.bucknell.edu) wrote:
: >
: >>: Does the edge of that center hole take some of the load
: >>: off of the 5 wheel mounting bolts when the wheel is
: >>: under high stress conditions?
: >
: >>Yes. That hole is there to take the load of the vehicle weight
: >>on the wheel. The weight of the wheel is not supposed to be
: >>supported in shear by the studs. Because of the threads on the
: >>studs, there are lots of places where failure can propagate, plus
: >>the stud is already in tension. You might also expect that the
: >>nuts or bolts might work loose if the wheel is not supported
: >>correctly by its center.
: >
: >
: > -center. I base this assertion on the fact that heavy truck (most 3/4-ton
: > pickups up to 18-wheelers) have goodly-amounts of clearnace between the hub and
: > the center-hole of the road-wheel... of course, they also have more than 5
: > studs...
: >
: > Walt K.
: I have to side with Walt on this one. I have seen several vehicles that
: don't use the center hole. One in particular is the rear axle on Toyota
: 4x4s. Also the hubs on my boat trailer don't have even a hint of flange
: for the wheel center to rest on. This trailer is rated at 6500-7000
I don't think the center hole needs to fit snugly either. The bevel on
the lug nuts and on the wheel do the centering. As far as the studs
supporting the weight of the vehicle in shear is concerned, IMHO that
would only be the case if the nuts were loose. Once they are torqued to
spec, friction between the wheel and the flange does the job. Imagine
clamping something very tightly in a vice with *five* different handles.
It wouldn't move.
Later,
Henry
acss...@eku.acs.eku.edu
> NTWK...@bcsc02.gov.bc.ca wrote:
> an aid to making sure the wheel was centered. Apparently, people are not so
> good about tightening the lug nuts sequentially, or using a torque wrench,f or
> that matter. In fact, most shops (gack!) use air impact wrenches (gack!) to
> tighten these. This can allow the wheel not to center properly.
If it's done right with an impact wrench, it will work just fine on most
vehicles and not cause any damage at all. There are a few cases where
overtightening can warp rotors etc., but probably doesn't happen too
often. Like you said yourself "most shops" do use impact wrenches and
like I say... "most people" don't ever have any problems.
>
> I always torque the lugs to 20, 40, 60, 80, then 90 ft-lbs, in the crisscross
> pattern (all to 20, then all to 30... etc)... I'm a perfectionist, and this
> way works well.
I'm sure it does work well, but it's not realy necessary on most vehicles.
Hell, most manuals only recommend that you torque critical engine parts
in two steps. Torquing lug nuts or bolts in 5 or more steps isn't
perfectionism. It's a bit ridiculous. But to each his own.
Wes Fujii
: Also the hubs on my boat trailer don't have even a hint of flange
: for the wheel center to rest on. This trailer is rated at 6500-7000
: pounds on four wheels - 5 lugs each.
Interesting. I thought that most boat and RV trailers had the
spindle that stuck way out to put the outer bearing further out toward
the outside of the wheel. On my trailer, the axle was replaced a couple
of years ago, it's a different brand and I didn't call out what I needed
except for number of lugs and bolt circle. The new axle has a fairly
close fit over the spindle with the wheels (which are nearly 25 years
old). The close fit looked intentional.
Steve Adderson
Frank Klein <fkl...@silicon.csci.csusb.edu> wrote:
>I always torque the lugs to 20, 40, 60, 80, then 90 ft-lbs, in the crisscross
>pattern (all to 20, then all to 30... etc)... I'm a perfectionist, and this
>way works well.
90 ft-lbs sounds a bit high. Is this what is recommended? I'm sure my manual
specifies more like half that.
Steve
Walter A. Koziarz
>: Walt K.
>Steve
unless the center-hole of the road-wheel is a press-fit on the hub the
center-hole is not bearing any load, unless the lugnuts are insufficiently
tight... in light-duty applications, the wheel is held in place, and the load
borne by the shoulder of the conical surface on the lugnut.
Walt K.
--
test-sig
acss...@eku.acs.eku.edu
> acss...@eku.acs.eku.edu wrote:
>
> : Also the hubs on my boat trailer don't have even a hint of flange
> : for the wheel center to rest on. This trailer is rated at 6500-7000
> : pounds on four wheels - 5 lugs each.
>
> Interesting. I thought that most boat and RV trailers had the
> spindle that stuck way out to put the outer bearing further out toward
Yes they do stick out. I have the optional aluminium wheels from the
trailer factory. I suspedt they are Am,erican Racing wheels if the truth
were known. And while there is a flange... there's not a hint of flange
for the wheel center to center on. I have to center them (carefully)
with the lug nuts.
Gordon Tedford
: In article <3bcjha$r...@nic-nac.csu.net>,
: Frank Klein <fkl...@silicon.csci.csusb.edu> wrote:
: Steve
Not all cars are the same. Check your owners manual.
Just my $0.02 worth.
--
Gordon O. Tedford
Email: gted...@spd.dsccc.com | (Standard disclaimer)
daveja...@gmail.com
Of course the spindle sees the weight of the car through the bearings, but that load is designed to be transferred to the wheel rim through the pilot on the hub, rather than through the wheel studs. Think of the times that you've had to kick a tire a few times to get it to pop off the hub pilot...That's exactly what it is supposed to do. The wheel nuts/studs are only there to hold the wheel on the hub pilot - in tension only.
Paul in Houston TX
Hubs might have been important 20 years ago when steel wheels were all the rage.
pedr...@lycos.com
the later models are heavier, so new wheels are stronger. Holden made
the centre bore smaller to stop people fitting older wheels, that
might not be rated for the load.
Steve W.
support. They use only the lug nuts and studs to support the vehicle.
Even big trucks do the same thing.
--
Steve W.
Kevin Bottorff
@fx09.iad:
it is a snug fit it is still a stud centered wheel. KB
handj...@yahoo.com
If you see a gray trailer and a white Dodge pickup stalled along the load somewhere in Kansas, then it didn't work. LOL