Window Tinting -- How to get rid of "bumps" on curve windows?
Artur Leung
Yesterday I tried to tint the rear-windshield window of a 96 Civic
with 35% tint film, brand Axius 5000 from Wal-Mart, but it was so tough
to finish the job. The tint film cannot cover the whole windshield so I
did it in two sections. The lower section (from the bottom to the
middle) was good and I managed to get rid of any bumps. However, on the
very top part (from the last defogger line at the top to the top of the
windshield), I just couldn't get rid of all the bumps. when I managed
to fix one, another one occurred.
I posted this message once a few days ago and someone suggested
using a heat-gun or hair-dryer to shrink the film to get rid of the
bumps. I used a hair dryer last night. The film got very hot but it
simply didn't shrink at all. Eventually the heat dried the water
trapped between the window and the film and it made the adhesive look
very bad...... But still I couldn't get rid of all the "bumps".
So any window-tinting professional out there who could help me a
little bit on tinting the top portion of the rear-windshield of a 96
Civic?
Artur
10.29.98
Gary Derian
film in a 5 inch wide roll. Put the seams on top of the defroster lines.
--
Gary Derian <gde...@cybergate.net>
Artur Leung wrote in message <36388C7D...@ittc.ukans.edu>...
Artur Leung
Thanks for your information. I still have one question for you......
After reading your post, I looked at the rear-windshield of my 96 Civic,
and noticed that the width of the portion from the top of the windshield to
the very first defroster line is kinda wide, and there is nothing in between.
I actually tried to tint this area using one tint film a while ago, but I
still get "bumps" at the corner of the windshield.
For cosmetic purpose, I really want the edges of each section lie on the
defroster lines so it "appears" to be a one-piece job. That's why I don't
feel too good tinting the top portion with two pieces of film, which will
leave the edge very visible. Do you have any other suggestion on how to
overcome this problem? I hope my description gives you some ideas of what the
problem is.
Thanks.
Artur
10.29.98
Bob Johnstone
material on the outside of the window, cut it to fit and then take it
inside and fix it to the window...?
Artur Leung
wrote:
>Did you know that when a professional does your car, they lay the
>material on the outside of the window, cut it to fit and then take it
>inside and fix it to the window...?
Yes I know. And I have done that step to obtain a smooth edge that
will lay on the defroster line. The problem I encounter is that the
rear windshield is compound-curve -- top to bottom, and left to right.
Then when I did the top part, the tint film doesn't fit the contour of
the curve and I couldn't get rid of the "bubbles" or "bumps" at the
edge of the film.
If someone has a solution, please notify me. I desparately need help.
Artur
10.29.98
Zaw Oo
about 3 hr and bubbles.. so i took it to the pros and got it done they did a
real good job.
too stress full.. I got about 90% done and found a bubble opps. the give
up.. :-)
Wolfevette
windo...@my-dejanews.com
> Window tint film can only bend in one plane. For compound curves, get the
> film in a 5 inch wide roll. Put the seams on top of the defroster lines.
> --
Actually film can bend in MULTIPLE planes .. if it couldn't I would never be
able to tint things like Camaros and old Saturns with one peice of film. ~ As
opposed to using 15 narrow strips of film to cover the window and having all
the overlapping seams showing ... or worse yet, having to make a dozen
'double cuts' and risking the defroster lines.
window tint
-----------== Posted via Deja News, The Discussion Network ==----------
http://www.dejanews.com/ Search, Read, Discuss, or Start Your Own
jimmi
blabs......
>
>Hi,
>
> Yesterday I tried to tint the rear-windshield window of a 96 Civic
>with 35% tint film, brand Axius 5000 from Wal-Mart, but it was so tough
>to finish the job. The tint film cannot cover the whole windshield so I
>did it in two sections. The lower section (from the bottom to the
>middle) was good and I managed to get rid of any bumps. However, on the
>very top part (from the last defogger line at the top to the top of the
>windshield), I just couldn't get rid of all the bumps. when I managed
>to fix one, another one occurred.
> I posted this message once a few days ago and someone suggested
>using a heat-gun or hair-dryer to shrink the film to get rid of the
>bumps. I used a hair dryer last night. The film got very hot but it
>simply didn't shrink at all. Eventually the heat dried the water
>trapped between the window and the film and it made the adhesive look
>very bad...... But still I couldn't get rid of all the "bumps".
> So any window-tinting professional out there who could help me a
>little bit on tinting the top portion of the rear-windshield of a 96
>Civic?
>
>Artur
>10.29.98
Haved you tried a large ball peen hammer?? works wonders on Hondas.
Mazdas and Toyotas too ;)
>
j. graham
You must take a piece of film and place it clear side UP on the OUTSIDE
of any window that has compound curves and/or bumps. You heat the film as
it lies outside the window but in contact with the outside surface. After
it is formed, you then separate the clear layer from the film and then apply
it to the INTERIOR of the window. Use soft water and Johnson's Baby Shampoo
in a mixture of 1 part shampoo to about 25 parts soft water. The pre-molded
film should adapt to the compound curved window. Use a sutiable squegee to
express the subfilm water. After the film has adhered to the window keep
using the squegee in problem areas as ANOTHER PERSON applys heat from a
healthy heat gun to the OUTSIDE of the window. External heat and internal
squegeeing will usually stick the film in difficult regions. This method
allows ONE PIECE film applications.
No warranty is implied in these directions.
**********************************************
Artur Leung wrote:
> Hi,
>
> Yesterday I tried to tint the rear-windshield window of a 96 Civic
>
> bumps. I used a hair dryer last night. The film got very hot but it
> simply didn't shrink at all. Eventually the heat dried the water
>
NLW TFW NM
Lifetime warranty.
Mike