How to remove old oil pan gasket?
tyl...@gmail.com
of the old (paper) gasket stuck to the bottom of the engine. How do I
remove it? It's practically superglued on. I've tried gasket remover, a
scraper, a razor blade, a wire wheel on a Dremel... the stuff clings to
my engine block with tenacity!
Any tips on getting it off before I take a grinder with a wire wheel to
it?
gobroncos
of SOS pads. They are about 1.75 inches in diameter and attach to a
high speed angle grinder. I got mine at the auto parts store, and now
that I think about it, I dont recall seeing them anywhere else. Jim
aarcuda69062
<1137071866.1...@g14g2000cwa.googlegroups.com>,
"gobroncos" <jimw...@aol.com> wrote:
They're called "Roloc" pads, 3M makes them and it would be wise
to point out that they have been documented as causing major
catastrophic engine failure because of the level of contamination
they cause inside the engine. Most OEMs have banned their use.
sdlomi2
<tyl...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1137043538.5...@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com...
patience. Some things just cannot be hurried. (*G*lue the new one onto the
pan!)HTH, s
N8N
Don't glue the new gasket to the pan, just get one of the new
steel-core neoprene gaskets. They are reusable and hold their shape so
no glue is required. I used one on a Corrado when I replaced the rod
bearings maybe 4 years ago and it still doesn't leak. This way you
will never have to scrape off an old, hard cork gasket again :)
A real, honest-to-God gasket scraper is a lifesaver here. It's like
the bastard child of a putty knife and a cold chisel. It is the right
tool for the job. Your FLAPS should have one. A little spray carb
cleaner can help loosen the old gasket as well, just don't let it drip
in your eyes. Once you get a clean spot, you ought to be able to catch
the edge of the old gasket material and work your way around the whole
flange pretty easily. The oil pan flange can be cleaned up with a wire
wheel in a bench grinder or hand drill, will work much faster than a
Dremel.
My advice is not good for all engines, but I know for a fact that the
nice gasket is available for a VW 4-banger, because I've used the exact
part you need. I think I got it from parts4vws.com. I believe that
they are also available for Ch*vy valve covers, if anyone cares (will
try a set on my Studebaker next time I need to replace valve cover
gaskets, as I'm using aluminum valve covers with no flanges and
apparently Ch*vy and Stude valve covers are close enough to the same
size/shape that they will work.)
nate
H...@nospam.nix
I seldom use anything but a good sharp stainless steel scraper. (I make
them myself from stainless steel putty knives. Sharpen them on a grinder
and then with a stone.)
I have used white spirit, alcohol, etc to mop the gasket area to help it
turn loose. Sometimes it helps a lot, sometimes not.
But with perseverence, you can get it off.
Alex Rodriguez
tyl...@gmail.com says...
My tip is not to use a grinder wheel. :) A razor blade in a holder has always
worked for me. It is tedious work and will take a while.
-----------
Alex
ed
get a good seal again even with a gasket. .
"Alex Rodriguez" <ad...@columbia.edu> wrote in message
news:dq6lj5$fej$5...@newsmaster.cc.columbia.edu...
tyl...@gmail.com
> them myself from stainless steel putty knives. Sharpen them on a grinder
> and then with a stone.)
This is the approach I took and it worked great. The razor blade was
too flimsy and the scraper too dull until I combined the best of both
worlds. ;)
Thanks, everyone, for the replies! Including N8N for the neoprene
gasket tip.
Barry S.
I tend to use razor blades and a die grinder with the least abrasive
surface prep pad. The sharpened scraper approach is a good one.
I would add one caution: Make sure you do not gouge or dent the pan
mating surface.
__________________
Note: To reply, replace the word 'spam' embedded in return address with 'mail'.
larry moe 'n curly
ed wrote:
> last thing you wanna do is nick what your gasketing together or you'll never
> get a good seal again even with a gasket. .
Will a sharp wood chisel work?
Lawrence Glickman
<larrymo...@my-deja.com> wrote:
a harder material will always cut the softer material.
My solution would be to use the edge of a piece of hardwood, and tap
it along the gasket flange pushing the old junk ahead of it. Oak
would be a good choice, and tap it along with a deadfall hammer or
such.
Lg
Nate Nagel
That's actually a good idea, or a hard plastic scraper, but sometimes
you can't help but have to use a steel scraper, as anything softer will
dull rather than scrape off the old gasket. Yes, steel is harder than
cast iron - the trick is just to never use the *corner* of the scraper
and always keep the sharp edge flat on the sealing surface, that way you
won't remove any significant amount of iron but will be able to get all
the gasket off.
nate
--
replace "fly" with "com" to reply.
http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel
H...@nospam.nix
"Nate Nagel" <njn...@flycast.net> wrote in message
Yes, steel is harder than
> cast iron - the trick is just to never use the *corner* of the scraper
> and always keep the sharp edge flat on the sealing surface, that way you
> won't remove any significant amount of iron but will be able to get all
> the gasket off.
Some of the steels, including some of the stainlesses, are softer than
cast iron, but your basic comment is right on.
I round off the corners on my scrapers, slightly, to avoid the gouging and
scratching you are fererring to.
none2u
screwdrivers, razors all work just fine.It'll seal if you nick it just
dremel them off, and use gasket sealer.
<H...@nospam.nix> wrote in message
news:I1Byf.1405$H71...@newssvr13.news.prodigy.com...