I broke off my Oxygen sensor
Danny Beardsley
honda civic EX, I broke the old one off. I tried some usual stuff,
knocking it with a hammer, liberal WD-40, running the car for a bit to
heat up the manifold. Anyway, TINK! it broke. Any suggestions?
Two pictures of the sensor and manifold
http://img416.imageshack.us/my.php?image=exhaustmanifold7eh.jpg
http://img416.imageshack.us/my.php?image=o2sensor9it.jpg
Lawrence Glickman
wrote:
Liquid Wrench penetrating oil. Soak repeatedly. Then pull all the
garbage out of the center of the O2 sensor that is still in the
manifold, and use an EZ OUT, or just drill the sucker with a large
drill bit until it spins off on its own.
Lg
WD 40 is $hit in a can.
fweddybear
"Lawrence Glickman" <Lawrence...@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:2audr15j8gcs2lfc5...@4ax.com...
Or you can also use a pipe tool that when you turn it counterclockwise,
will grab the inside of whatever is left in there and will come out. I had
a similar problem with my lawn tractor.... the drain pipe for the oil was
way too short and wanted to lenghten it. Well somehow, it broke off right at
the edge of the engine block and I used one of those pipe tools that goes
inside. I got it at home repo (depot) for not too much.
Good Luck,
Fwed
SoCalMike
yeesh. some options, in no particular order-
junkyard manifold
new manifold
new header
take it to a machine shop- let them get it out and rethread it
you drill it out/rethread it
hammer big flathead screwdriver into it, try to turn
judicious use of an air chisel, big flathead, try to turn
Nate Nagel
First of all, WD-40 is not a penetrating oil, claims to the contrary by
the manufacturer and thousands of users notwithstanding. It's a little
late now, but really, you should have used Kroil, PB Blaster, or one of
the other purpose-made penetrating oils rather than WD-40. Guess you
will remember that next time :/
Now as to your immediate situation - that sucker is broken off in a very
difficult way. I would personally suggest, if you have access, dropping
the downpipe so the bottom of the manifold is open, and then trying to
drill it out with successively larger drill bits. If you are lucky the
drill bit will "catch" and spin the remaining piece out into the
manifold (this is why I suggested dropping the downpipe.) If you are
less than lucky, you'll end up drilling it out to the threads, in which
case a spark plug thread chaser tap should clean them up.
You may find it easier to remove the manifold from the car; I haven't
ever worked on a Honda so I don't know how difficult access is vs.
manifold removal.
Needless to say, put some anti-seize on the threads of the new O2
sensor, and next time you go to replace one, before you get to the point
of breakage, try heating the manifold around the sensor with a torch,
pref. oxyacetylene if you have access to one.
good luck,
nate
--
replace "fly" with "com" to reply.
http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel
Lawrence Glickman
wrote:
Excellent idea. LEVERAGE IS YOUR FRIEND. Long handles are in
fashion.
Lg
Misterbeets
Nate Nagel
Hmm, I've never seen what you're describing, but it sounds like
something to add to the bag o' tricks. Is this a plumbing tool? I will
have to look next time I'm at Home Despot.
nate
PS - I have never had any luck with EZ-outs. They always seem to break
on me.
Lawrence Glickman
wrote:
>Might try a radial cut with a small hacksaw blade.
That's what I had to do with my 40 year old bathtub drain. I had to
make 2 cuts, one on each side, about 120 degrees apart from eachother,
and then the entire affair collapsed in on itself with a little help
from a screwdriver and a hammer.
Lawrence Glickman
wrote:
Because I have to *anneal* mine first, the big ones, by heating with a
propane tourch and then letting them air cool. It takes the
brittleness out of them.
Lg
fweddybear
"Nate Nagel" <njn...@flycast.net> wrote in message
news:dp6uf...@news2.newsguy.com...
Yes, they are sold at home depot....when i had this problem, i didn't
know what to do either until I went there and started asking around..... one
of the people there showed me it....and told me it works wonders...forgot
how much it is, but I don't think it was too much.... it comes in three
sizes....well the one i have did...
good luck,
Fwed
Michael Pardee
> me.
>
just don't bite well enough.
I had a thought, though. The threads are jammed because they have tried to
weld together, with the "pull" direction being the main force. When the
EZ-out is seated, how about a few judicious taps with a hammer (or whatever
will fit in the space available) on the end of the EZ-out to try to weaken
those welds?
MIke
Michael Pardee
news:1136064598.8...@g14g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
> Might try a radial cut with a small hacksaw blade.
>
Mike
Elle
(vibrations work wonders, like Michael suggests). EZ-Outs
often fail, but they often work, too. They may be had at
Autozone. Otherwise, what others said.
In my experience, PB Blaster is superior to Liquid Wrench,
by a lot. They are about the same price. PB Blaster worked
great on my exhaust system bolts last year, though the
closer I got to the manifold, the tougher freeing bolts
became.
Updates are welcome. Good luck.
"Danny Beardsley" <dbea...@gmail.com> wrote
Steve W.
Heat the remaining part and the manifold till it is red hot and then
spray it with some good lube(Kroil, PB Blaster or the like NOT WD40). It
will smoke like crazy. Let it cool and wipe it off. Now heat it again
and drive a tapered square style EZ OUT in good. let it set a bit and
turn it out. should come out easily this way.
--
Steve Williams
Near Cooperstown, New York
"Danny Beardsley" <dbea...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1136063258.2...@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com...
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« Paul »
If it were my car I would:
Not bother with any sort of solvent - IMO it's a waste of time.
1) Knock the center of it down into the exhaust pipe.
2) Use a hacksaw blade to saw slits into the remaining threads.
3) Knock the slit pieces into the exhaust pipe.
4) Install new O2 sensor.
Eric
>
> HEAT. Grab a torch (MAPP or propane will work just take a bit longer)
> Heat the remaining part and the manifold till it is red hot and then
> spray it with some good lube(Kroil, PB Blaster or the like NOT WD40). It
> will smoke like crazy. Let it cool and wipe it off. Now heat it again
> and drive a tapered square style EZ OUT in good. let it set a bit and
> turn it out. should come out easily this way.
>
Heat was going to be my recommendation as well (though without spraying it
with penetrating oil while it was hot). Once it's hot, try using the EZ
out. Though, I tend to prefer the spiral fluted extractors over the taper
square style. In addition, make sure that you're not putting a side load on
the extractor, just a twisting load. Side loads tend to make them brake.
If you're going to drill it, then be sure to use left handed drill bits
since they will help to loosen the remaining piece from the threads. Still,
it looks like there's enough rust in there to require heating with a torch.
Eric
TE Cheah
Popular Mechanic's article says it's good, so I bought a can :
it cannot loosen rusty bolts.
Nate Nagel
Probably because it's become "common knowledge" that it works; kind of
like "Budweiser is good beer."
nate
Al Bundy
tap it. I think I would be done in an hour including a trip to the
store for the tap if I didn't have one, but I do.
Bernd Felsche
>TE Cheah wrote:
>> | WD 40 is $hit in a can.
>>
>> Popular Mechanic's article says it's good, so I bought a can :
>> it cannot loosen rusty bolts.
>Probably because it's become "common knowledge" that it works; kind of
>like "Budweiser is good beer."
Budweiser is beer?
--
/"\ Bernd Felsche - Innovative Reckoning, Perth, Western Australia
\ / ASCII ribbon campaign | German words of the year 2005:
X against HTML mail | Bundeskanzlerin Tsunami Gammelfleisch
/ \ and postings | Sadly, in that order.
Michael Pardee
>| WD 40 is $hit in a can.
>
> Popular Mechanic's article says it's good, so I bought a can :
> it cannot loosen rusty bolts.
>
>
option available, then it's better than nothing in a pinch). It works well
for cleaning up oily tools, for getting wet ignitions going, and leaves a
nice smell on your hands; manly (sorry, Elle) and pleasant. It will also
restore ribbons if you have a dot matrix printer around. Some people have
used it as diesel starting fluid, but I've never had the occasion.
When I was a cyclist I used the WD-40 chain lube system. Every weekend I'd
spray the "power train" (chain and everything) with Gunk, hose it off, and
spray it with WD-40. It's a lazy way to keep the chain clean and lubricated
enough for light use, but the chain does wear faster than it does with real
chain lube. Oddly, sometimes bicycle brakes work better (don't chatter, more
even grip) if the rim is wiped with a bit of WD-40... testament to the
limitations of WD-40 as a lubricant.
Mike
aarcuda69062
<1136122410....@g44g2000cwa.googlegroups.com>,
"Al Bundy" <MSfo...@mcpmail.com> wrote:
Did you even bother to look at the pictures?
If he leaves it as is, he's going to have a hell of an exhaust
leak, not to mention that there's not likely to be sufficient
meat in any other area of the manifold to mount an O2 sensor.
Bob Urz
Maybe he can just take the whole manifold off and take it to a welding
shop or such and have them remove it, and then re install it?
Bob
Remco
I agree with Mike.
It cleans up tools really well.
I am restoring an old VW bug and its rust just laughs at WD40.
A much better choice is PB blaster or Kroil for penetrating oil.
Remco
« Paul »
WD-40 = Water Displacement formula #40.
It never was meant for loosening rusty bolts.
SoCalMike
> If it were my car I would:
> Not bother with any sort of solvent - IMO it's a waste of time.
> 1) Knock the center of it down into the exhaust pipe.
> 2) Use a hacksaw blade to saw slits into the remaining threads.
if room permits, a sawzall would make quick work of that
Elle
> "TE Cheah" <n...@spam.biz> wrote
> >| WD 40 is $hit in a can.
> >
> > Popular Mechanic's article says it's good, so I bought a
can :
> > it cannot loosen rusty bolts.
> >
> >
> WD-40 is good, but not as a lubricant or penetrant (unless
you have no real
> option available, then it's better than nothing in a
pinch). It works well
> for cleaning up oily tools, for getting wet ignitions
going, and leaves a
> nice smell on your hands; manly (sorry, Elle) and
pleasant.
Sure, if all a man wants around him is other manly
technicians.
I advise "Goop" or similar, followed by ordinary soap, then,
for men, cologne or aftershave. (Tip: Amazing how huggable
men are when the scent of even a little aftershave is in the
air--I'm not proud of it, but with enough aftershave, I'll
swoon even before men of a different political party
affiliation.)
Anything but that WD-40 (or PB Blaster, etc.) odor...
Brandy? Rav?
I've stopped bringing penetrating oils into the house for
even little cleanup jobs at the kitchen sink, because they
make the whole house reek for a day.
Happiest of New Years to all. Be safe, find peace.
Ulf
> Nate Nagel <njn...@flycast.net> writes:
>
>>TE Cheah wrote:
>>
>>>| WD 40 is $hit in a can.
>>>
>>>Popular Mechanic's article says it's good, so I bought a can :
>>>it cannot loosen rusty bolts.
>
>
>>Probably because it's become "common knowledge" that it works; kind of
>>like "Budweiser is good beer."
>
>
> Budweiser is beer?
LOL. Reminds me of that joke about having sex in a canoe.
Ulf
« Paul »
Yes. That never even dawned on me.
And I'm usually the first one to reach for my air or electric tools.
Daniel J. Stern
> | WD 40 is $hit in a can. Popular Mechanic's article says it's good, so
> I bought a can : it cannot loosen rusty bolts.
From this we learn a few things:
1) Yes, WD40 is mostly good at loosening money that was stuck in your
wallet.
2) Popular Mechanics is full of shite.
There are two and *only* two penetrants I mess with any more: Kroil and
Chrysler P/N 4318039.
fweddybear
"« Paul »" <"=?x-user-defined?Q?=AB?= Paul
=?x-user-defined?Q?=BB?="@houston.rr.com> wrote in message
news:43B80AB8...@houston.rr.com...
This poses another problem..... you will get one hell of a rattle in the
exhaust pipe until its removed...
Fwed
Remco
Elle wrote:
> Sure, if all a man wants around him is other manly
> technicians.
>
> I advise "Goop" or similar, followed by ordinary soap, then,
> for men, cologne or aftershave. (Tip: Amazing how huggable
> men are when the scent of even a little aftershave is in the
> air--I'm not proud of it, but with enough aftershave, I'll
> swoon even before men of a different political party
> affiliation.)
>
> Anything but that WD-40 (or PB Blaster, etc.) odor...
>
> Brandy? Rav?
>
> I've stopped bringing penetrating oils into the house for
> even little cleanup jobs at the kitchen sink, because they
> make the whole house reek for a day.
>
> Happiest of New Years to all. Be safe, find peace.
So using that handy dandy WD40 spray can as room refresher is out,
then? :)
May all your Hondas keep running.
Remco
notbob
> From this we learn a few things:
> 2) Popular Mechanics is full of shite.
Mainly, that you don't know how to spell shit!
nb
Hugo Schmeisser
It's a legitimate spelling.
http://dictionary.reference.com/search?q=shite
Stephen H
My first choice; ox-ace heat, followed by the wrench
Another option that was said to me was try to tighten first, then back out.
This tip was from a old master tech that teaches tech courses. Now I tried
it once and it didn't work for me, but we still try (I think I used heat on
that one.)
He also said ATf is a good penetrate. get the part hot and pun some on it
and let it set overnight, the dissipating heat will wick it into the
threads.
I also have in my box a tap that is the 02 sensor size, wasn't easy to find,
but I ordered it before I needed it.
There also is an heli-coil set for thread repairs, sometimes they screw
themselves up on the way out
If you remove the manifold you could carry it to a vise or a machine shop.
Heat is always the best choice.
--
Stephen W. Hansen
ASE Certified Master Automobile Technician
ASE Automobile Advanced Engine Performance
ASE Undercar Specialist
http://autorepair.about.com/cs/troubleshooting/l/bl_obd_main.htm
http://www.troublecodes.net/technical/
"Danny Beardsley" <dbea...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1136063258.2...@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com...
Jim Carriere
> restore ribbons if you have a dot matrix printer around. Some people have
> used it as diesel starting fluid, but I've never had the occasion.
I've used it as a gas starting fluid (old worn out carburetted cars,
sub-zero temps). It's good because it's not nearly as explosive as
ether, but it will still ignite easily enough to turn your engine over
and get it going.
Lawrence Glickman
wrote:
He could trying using a magnetic retrieval tool to pick up any pieces
left in the pipe.
It looks like the sawblade suggestion is worth a try, but personally I
would consider it as the last resort. Twisting it out with some kind
of long-handled tool would be my first attempt. We can see what
happened with his first attempt. It broke the sensor off. Now you
just have to twist it out with that pipe gizmo you said you can buy at
Home Depot or somesuch.
In fact, I am going there tomorrow just to look for such a thing.
What is it called? Maybe I will see it in the plumbing department.
Lg
Michael Pardee
news:YLTtf.1066$%W1....@newsread2.news.atl.earthlink.net...
> "Michael Pardee" <michae...@cybertrails.com> wrote
>> WD-40 is good, but not as a lubricant or penetrant (unless
> you have no real
>> option available, then it's better than nothing in a
> pinch). It works well
>> for cleaning up oily tools, for getting wet ignitions
> going, and leaves a
>> nice smell on your hands; manly (sorry, Elle) and
> pleasant.
>
> Sure, if all a man wants around him is other manly
> technicians.
>
Mike
fweddybear
"Lawrence Glickman" <Lawrence...@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:a8agr1tdq97eeh2b9...@4ax.com...
Earlier on, I had recommended a tool that is used for metal piping. Its
a plumbers tool and when turned counterclockwise, it grabs the inside of
whats left and turns it out. It works so simply, its like you were just
taking the thing out without any effort. I think since he hasn't posted
back, he is probably out looking for the item....the set i have comes in 3
different sizes.
Fwed
Grumpy AuContraire
"Schitt" is much more diplomatic...
<G>
JT
Al Bundy
On the other hand I DID look at the pictures and the piece he has left
in the manifold should not leak. It's broke off almost flush with the
edge. The O2 sensor does not have a hold in the center like a
lifesaver. The boss for the sensor is thicker, but I believe the
casting has enough for holding a sensor. It's a crap shoot maybe. A
person could drill a 3/16 test hole to see how thick it is there and
make the decision to go forward or not and plug the hole. Believe it or
not, O2 sensors are moved around on the manifold like this at times.
aarcuda69062
<1136157026.6...@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com>,
"Al Bundy" <MSfo...@mcpmail.com> wrote:
> > Did you even bother to look at the pictures?
> On the other hand I DID look at the pictures and the piece he has left
> in the manifold should not leak. It's broke off almost flush with the
> edge. The O2 sensor does not have a hold in the center like a
> lifesaver.
Look again. I can clearly see the zirconia 'thimble' that is
exposed inside the louvered sensor tip.
> The boss for the sensor is thicker, but I believe the
> casting has enough for holding a sensor. It's a crap shoot maybe. A
> person could drill a 3/16 test hole to see how thick it is there and
> make the decision to go forward or not and plug the hole.
Indeed. What reliable method would he use to plug a hole in cast
iron?
> Believe it or
> not, O2 sensors are moved around on the manifold like this at times.
Haven't seen it in over 36 years. In a pipe, yes, but not in a
manifold.
Daniel J. Stern
...or that you're a cloistered, ignorant, triggermouthed American.
Nate Nagel
Completely apropos of nothing, but I actually love the smell of gear
oil. I can't quite warm up to the limited slip additive, however...
nate
--
replace "fly" with "com" to reply.
http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel
Nate Nagel
that I have used with some success in the past is a cheap candle. Heat
up whatever you want to remove, while it is red hot, stick a candle
close by so the wax will melt and run into the threads. It will run in
almost like solder. It really works, believe it or not...
nate
Stephen H wrote:
> Wow, that can be a tuff one.
>
> My first choice; ox-ace heat, followed by the wrench
> Another option that was said to me was try to tighten first, then back out.
> This tip was from a old master tech that teaches tech courses. Now I tried
> it once and it didn't work for me, but we still try (I think I used heat on
> that one.)
> He also said ATf is a good penetrate. get the part hot and pun some on it
> and let it set overnight, the dissipating heat will wick it into the
> threads.
> I also have in my box a tap that is the 02 sensor size, wasn't easy to find,
> but I ordered it before I needed it.
> There also is an heli-coil set for thread repairs, sometimes they screw
> themselves up on the way out
> If you remove the manifold you could carry it to a vise or a machine shop.
> Heat is always the best choice.
>
>
--
Remco
Maybe you, Mike, Elle and me stumbled onto a hole in the perfume
market....
Just watch: a month from now, one of the fancy perfume companies will
come out with "Essence de Voiture".. Ahh, the smell of it :)
Elle
That's right, I neglected the flip side of the coin, which
is of course "What essence should a woman splash on to best
'catch' a man?"
Last time a guy complimented the fragrance coming from my
direction, I had to tell him it was only hair spray. :-)
Anyway... I was thinking that the seemingly wide gender
divide on the, um, appeal of machine oils may help explain
certain other gender trends. Like why there are so few
female auto techs?
I dunno. There does seem to be a noticeable difference in
preferences.
Getting back to cars and this poor fellow with the busted
off O2 sensor...
« Paul »
>
> It looks like the sawblade suggestion is worth a try, but personally I
> would consider it as the last resort. Twisting it out with some kind
> of long-handled tool would be my first attempt. We can see what
> happened with his first attempt. It broke the sensor off. Now you
> just have to twist it out with that pipe gizmo you said you can buy at
> Home Depot or somesuch.
>
> In fact, I am going there tomorrow just to look for such a thing.
> What is it called? Maybe I will see it in the plumbing department.
>
> Lg
Easy-Out.
There are all kinds of them.
I have most of them. Great time saver, but not for this application.
The metal is too thin to grab.
http://www.toolprice.com/category/screwextractors
« Paul »
Easy-Outs don't work well on rusted or overly tight things
without heating the object red-hot with oxy-actyl torch first.
Lawrence Glickman
Yes, that's what I have, although I don't recall where and when I
bought them. Easy-Out. Probably came mixed in with some pipe stuff I
bought at Sears ( Crapsman ) at one time.
A lot of good ideas here. Many good ideas. Take your pick. Of
course, a lot depends on where the sensor is located...how easy it is
to get at, how much room there is to work on it.
Still, I don't see this as an End of the World scenario. I'm thinking
time and patience will get it out, without doing any damage to the
surrounding equipment.
I have a can of *Blaster* penetrating oil out in the garage. Man does
that stuff STINK! But whatever. It might be a good idea to repeately
apply that while tapping on what is left of the O2 sensor to help the
*stuff* work its way down into the threads, presuming there are any
threads left, and they haven't all turned to rust by now.
I have some fasteners that are so far rusted, so far gone ( exhaust
hangers and such ) that the only way I can imagine getting them off is
to cut them off with a disc grinder. They sell em at Harbor Freight
for not much money.
In this case, it might make sense to remove the piece of manifold and
take it down to the basement workshop where the OP can take his time
and beat this piece of metal into submission.
Lg
Stephen H
--
Stephen W. Hansen
ASE Certified Master Automobile Technician
ASE Automobile Advanced Engine Performance
ASE Undercar Specialist
http://autorepair.about.com/cs/troubleshooting/l/bl_obd_main.htm
http://www.troublecodes.net/technical/
"Nate Nagel" <njn...@flycast.net> wrote in message
news:dp9qo...@news1.newsguy.com...
Alex Rodriguez
>PS - I have never had any luck with EZ-outs. They always seem to break
>on me.
Me too. I wonder if I am doing something wrong? I usually end up breaking
the EZ-out in the screw I need to remove. That then makes the job twice
as hard since the EZ-outs are so hard.
--------------
Alex
Alex Rodriguez
das...@127.0.0.1 says...
>
>
>On Sun, 1 Jan 2006, TE Cheah wrote:
>
>> | WD 40 is $hit in a can. Popular Mechanic's article says it's good, so
>> I bought a can : it cannot loosen rusty bolts.
>
>From this we learn a few things:
>
>1) Yes, WD40 is mostly good at loosening money that was stuck in your
>wallet.
To be fair, WD works well at what it is designed to do, displace water. I use
to carry a can in my car that had bad ignition wires. Whenever it was very
humid out and my car would not start, a quick squirt on the wires got the car
running.
-------------
Alex
Mike Romain
Displacement formula, their 40th try....
It cleans up and dries out the insides of distributor caps, it works
great cleaning up the insides of starters and loosening seized up
electrical brushes. It also rust protects tools and cleans then nice.
It is total crap for a penetrating fluid though....
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Aug./05 http://www.imagestation.com/album/index.html?id=2120343242
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
L Alpert
> WD40 is excellent for what it was designed for. It is a Water
> Displacement formula, their 40th try....
>
> It cleans up and dries out the insides of distributor caps, it works
> great cleaning up the insides of starters and loosening seized up
> electrical brushes. It also rust protects tools and cleans then nice.
>
> It is total crap for a penetrating fluid though....
Used to buy it by the case when living in FL near the beach. Great for door
hinges, BBQ grills, etc.
Mike Romain
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
> > WD40 is excellent for what it was designed for. It is a Water
> > Displacement formula, their 40th try....
> >
> > It cleans up and dries out the insides of distributor caps, it works
> > great cleaning up the insides of starters and loosening seized up
> > electrical brushes. It also rust protects tools and cleans then nice.
> >
> > It is total crap for a penetrating fluid though....
>
> Used to buy it by the case when living in FL near the beach. Great for door
> hinges, BBQ grills, etc.
I live in the Canadian rust belt, tell me about it...
notbob
> Used to buy it by the case....
I'd take that as a clue.
nb
L Alpert
> L Alpert wrote:
>>
>> Mike Romain wrote:
>>> WD40 is excellent for what it was designed for. It is a Water
>>> Displacement formula, their 40th try....
>>>
>>> It cleans up and dries out the insides of distributor caps, it works
>>> great cleaning up the insides of starters and loosening seized up
>>> electrical brushes. It also rust protects tools and cleans then
>>> nice.
>>>
>>> It is total crap for a penetrating fluid though....
>>
>> Used to buy it by the case when living in FL near the beach. Great
>> for door hinges, BBQ grills, etc.
>
> I live in the Canadian rust belt, tell me about it...
Then you do know......
L Alpert
That I am an alcoholic?
Michael Pardee
news:jJOdncL95YW...@comcast.com...
Mike
SoCalMike
> Mike Romain wrote:
>> WD40 is excellent for what it was designed for. It is a Water
>> Displacement formula, their 40th try....
>>
>> It cleans up and dries out the insides of distributor caps, it works
>> great cleaning up the insides of starters and loosening seized up
>> electrical brushes. It also rust protects tools and cleans then nice.
>>
>> It is total crap for a penetrating fluid though....
>
> Used to buy it by the case when living in FL near the beach. Great for door
> hinges, BBQ grills, etc.
i use it to clean and LIGHTLY lube motorcycle and bicycle chains and
cables.
L Alpert
It is in remission since I moved to the rather dry climate of CA. Besides,
I never like the taste.
Remco
I use it to clean off my tools. It gets gunk and dirt off really well.
I then rub a drop of oil with STP (that oil additive they tell you to
use on old engines) on it to keep the rust at bay.