What do I need to change my 2 barrel to a 4 barrel
malbern
holly aluminum intake with a edelbroke 4 barrel carburetor that I plan
on putting on this summer.
Can anyone tell me what is in a kit to convert from a 2 barrel to a 4
barrel? I what to make sure that I have everything I need before I take
it apart.
cybe...@yahoo.com
You pretty much have it. A manifold(or adapter plate) to fit your carb
and a 4bbl carb. A gasket set of course.
Make sure that your linkage will match up appropriately.
Nothing to it.
JW
Knifeblade_03
Yeah, with the appropriate 4-bbl intake manifold, and the right gaskets,
all that's left is the linkage hookup, and that isn't much more than a
bit of fussing. Be alert to the possible need for a new air cleaner
assembly to fit the 4-bbl throat.
--
Knifeblade_03
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malbern
the linkage or springs.The 318 never did come with a 4bbl carb,so the
linkage has me a little worried.
Mike Romain
Some gaskets need RTV in the corners, not sure about those but it is
handy to have.
I think you will need headers and maybe dual exhaust as well. The last
4 bbl swap I helped a friend do turned it into a pig because of stock
exhaust manifolds and single pipe. It only sounded cool. We changed it
back.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
malbern
along with new chrome valve covers.
malbern
malbern
hard to fine. I have been looking but can't seem to get any for my 1970
C-body.
fweddybear
news:1145991699....@g10g2000cwb.googlegroups.com...
> Thanks JW I have the gaskets,I was wondering if I would have to change
> the linkage or springs.The 318 never did come with a 4bbl carb,so the
> linkage has me a little worried.
Probably not.... I did an exchange on a 63 galaxy... from a 2 barrel to
a 4 barrel. I used an Edelbrock high rise manifold with a Holley 4 barrel
(650 cfm) and (I believe) an adapter for the carb. It may have already come
with the kit though... that was many years ago... let me tell you...... it
made an extreme amount of difference in the cars performance. I was
literally shocked at how much power I got just from that small change.
You may want to talk to the place you got the parts from to see if you
are missing something
Good Luck...
Fwed
DaveB
An A/T will require additional linkage for the "Kickdown" and adjustment of
this linkage.
Dave
"malbern" <mal...@rogers.com> wrote in message
news:1145987144.1...@v46g2000cwv.googlegroups.com...
malbern
mopar.I guess I will fine out when I take it apart and reinstall.
DaveB
is setup on the 2bbl and see if you can adapt to the 4bbl.
"malbern" <mal...@rogers.com> wrote in message
news:1146010636....@v46g2000cwv.googlegroups.com...
five...@webtv.net
look here,
http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&ie=ISO-8859-1&q=edelbroke+4+barrel+carb+kit
mho
vƒe
>double dog dare you, sound familiar?
>to reduce your driving by - 10%.
Steve
-You'll need the manifold- you've got that.
-You'll need an air cleaner. One that fits under the hood and clears all
the linkages. Aftermarket open element units are available, but they're
noisy. I prefer to junkyard dive for OEM type air cleaners.
-You'll need a transmission kickdown linkage (I'd get the complete
assembly, including throttle cable and the bracket that mounts to the
manifold. A good donor is a 4-bbl Diplomat or Gran Fury copcar. Failing
that, you can get a Lockar kickdown cable kit.
- You'll need fuel line. Use either a hard line or FUEL INJECTION hose.
Do not make a long run out of regular "fuel line" hose sold at part
stores- if you're going to run that much rubber line use fuel injection
rated hose.
Steve
> The 318 never did come with a 4bbl carb,so the
> linkage has me a little worried.
>
Sure it did. 80s M-body copcars. Or use parts of a 360 4-bbl pickup
truck. The 318 and 360 are dimensionally identical, and anything that
bolts onto a 360 (above the oil pan, anyway) will bolt on a 318.
Steve
Look again:
But you don't NEED headers. A 4-bbl and dual exhaust (don't forget the
crossover!) are a nice mild wake-up for a 318. To take full advantage of
headers, you'd really need a bigger than stock cam and exhaust port
work. Headers won't HURT, but put your money elsewhere first.
Steve Walker
All of the above PLUS:
VERY,VERY IMPORTANT!!!!!!
DO NOT DISREGARD!!!!!!
After the install,if you cannot adjust the kickdown linkage properly
yourself, tow, do not drive, your car to a transmission shop and have
them do it. It MUST be adjusted properly.
See also:
http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive/eps_intro.html
for carb tuning information.
You may need a PCV valve for a 4BBL 318, from an early 80's 318 4BBL cop
car.(maybe a different hose also)
How about the choke? Is it electric? If so, don't tap into the ignition
coil to drive it. (A common mistake.)
Speaking of which, convert to an electronic ignition if you can afford it.
Here's some wiring info:
http://www.225.ca/tech/images/js005.jpg (I2 is start, I1 is run)
Junkyard parts will be cheaper.
(control box, wiring harness, coil and distributor )
use a new ballast resistor
Does the old carb have an idle solenoid for A/C? You may need to do a
little rigging for that.
Make sure all the old vacuum lines are connected to the proper vacuum
types, i.e. ported or direct.
A can of carb cleaner to check for vacuum leaks.
New thermostat, housing, gasket and coolant?
If possible, use washers under the manifold to head bolts if the bolts
don't have a flange. Aluminum tears easily.
HTH
--
Steve Walker
res6...@verizonwallet.net (remove wallet to reply)
Nate Nagel
For the last, I've found that having an assortment of AN washers around
is handy, sometimes manifolds have machined "pockets" for the bolts in
which SAE washers won't fit. I like stainless, but always use
anti-seize with stainless hardware.
nate
--
replace "fly" with "com" to reply.
http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel
H...@nospam.nix
"Steve" <n...@spam.thanks> wrote in message
> But you don't NEED headers. A 4-bbl and dual exhaust (don't forget the
> crossover!) are a nice mild wake-up for a 318. To take full advantage of
> headers, you'd really need a bigger than stock cam and exhaust port
> work. Headers won't HURT, but put your money elsewhere first.
Steve,
Wasn't there a 340 cid engine available about that time which was
essentially
the 318 punched out? Seems that I helped a friend swap a 340 in place of
his
318 in a Duster, but may be confused. I know for sure he installed a 4
barrel on it.
With all the modifications he eventually performed, this project evolved to
a
monster. He could lift the front wheels off the ground - seriously- in low
gear.
H...@nospam.nix
<H...@nospam.nix> wrote in message
news:VNm4g.77200$dW3....@newssvr21.news.prodigy.com...
> Wasn't there a 340 cid engine available about that time which was
> essentially
> the 318 punched out? Seems that I helped a friend swap a 340 in place of
> his
> 318 in a Duster, but may be confused. I know for sure he installed a 4
> barrel on it.
>
> With all the modifications he eventually performed, this project evolved
to
> a
> monster. He could lift the front wheels off the ground - seriously- in
low
> gear.
Im going to answer my own post. Researched it and found the 340 Dodge was
available around the OPs model date. It was rated at 275 BHP and with a
little
tweaking could put out a lot more than that. I believe that manifolds, and
many
other parts interchange with the 318.
aarcuda69062
<H...@nospam.nix> wrote:
> Im going to answer my own post. Researched it and found the 340 Dodge was
> available around the OPs model date. It was rated at 275 BHP and with a
And 290 BHP.
> little
> tweaking could put out a lot more than that. I believe that manifolds, and
> many
> other parts interchange with the 318.
Original intake and exhaust manifolds are rarer than hens teeth,
(read, pricey).
Yes, parts will interchange, the intake manifold will fit but
there will be a severe port mis-match, exhaust manifolds off of a
71-72 C-body 360 will fit the 318 and flow a lot better than the
318 manifolds. 360 "J" heads flow as well as the 340 heads and
are still found in salvage yards, one needs to be careful with
them on a 318 WRT valve size, too big of valve and you have
shrouding problems with the cylinder wall.
And no, the 340 wasn't a punched out 318 any more than a Chebby
350 is/was a punched out 265.
H...@nospam.nix
"aarcuda69062" <none...@sbcglobal.net> wrote in message
news:nonelson-6372EC...@newsclstr02.news.prodigy.com...
> And no, the 340 wasn't a punched out 318 any more than a Chebby
> 350 is/was a punched out 265.
Would look like basically a bore job. Stroke was 3.31, bore was 3.91 on
the 318 and 4.04 on the 340.
318 (5.2) 1967-2002 3.31 3.91
340 1968-73 3.31 4.04
What are the other differences, Aarcuda?
aarcuda69062
<H...@nospam.nix> wrote:
> "aarcuda69062" <none...@sbcglobal.net> wrote in message
> news:nonelson-6372EC...@newsclstr02.news.prodigy.com...
>
> > And no, the 340 wasn't a punched out 318 any more than a Chebby
> > 350 is/was a punched out 265.
>
> Would look like basically a bore job. Stroke was 3.31, bore was 3.91 on
> the 318 and 4.04 on the 340.
.130 inches different. Boring out would require a .065 inch cut,
that equals roughly 1/3 the thickness of the cylinder wall.
It'll run, but it'll probably sag in short order.
> 318 (5.2) 1967-2002 3.31 3.91
> 340 1968-73 3.31 4.04
>
>
>
>
>
> What are the other differences, Aarcuda?
The blocks were different although the early 360s shared the same
block casting number as the 340. Cylinder centers are the same,
deck heights are the same, rods are different weight and casting
number from what I've observed, cylinder heads are different in
both valve size and combustion chamber volume, camshafts were
different, timing chain and sprockets were different, main and
rod bearings were different, different water pump, larger
diameter by-pass hose, different ring groove depth in the
pistons, different valve springs, different oil filter mount...
H...@nospam.nix
> > What are the other differences, Aarcuda?
>
> The blocks were different although the early 360s shared the same
> block casting number as the 340. Cylinder centers are the same,
> deck heights are the same, rods are different weight and casting
> number from what I've observed, cylinder heads are different in
> both valve size and combustion chamber volume, camshafts were
> different, timing chain and sprockets were different, main and
> rod bearings were different, different water pump, larger
> diameter by-pass hose, different ring groove depth in the
> pistons, different valve springs, different oil filter mount...
Considerable differences, for something that 'looks like a duck'.
Thanks
Steve
> "Steve" <n...@spam.thanks> wrote in message
>
>
>>But you don't NEED headers. A 4-bbl and dual exhaust (don't forget the
>>crossover!) are a nice mild wake-up for a 318. To take full advantage of
>>headers, you'd really need a bigger than stock cam and exhaust port
>>work. Headers won't HURT, but put your money elsewhere first.
>
>
> Steve,
> Wasn't there a 340 cid engine available about that time which was
> essentially
> the 318 punched out? Seems that I helped a friend swap a 340 in place of
> his
> 318 in a Duster, but may be confused. I know for sure he installed a 4
> barrel on it.
A 340 is indeed the basic 273/318 block with bore size increased, a
forged crank, always with a 4-bbl, and DIFFERENT HEADS :-) The problem
with doing a factory parts mix-and-match on a 318 is that putting either
340 or 360 heads on it (to get the bigger ports that flow better) also
comes at the expense of getting a larger combustion chamber that would
lower the compression ratio to about 7:1 without other added changes :-/
Best "bolt-on and go" heads for a 318 are the 80s "swirl-port" XXX302
casting with minor work to clean up the ports. Now if you start to
change the bottom end and can pick pistons with a higher than factory
deck height, then sure, use 360 heads and have the best of both worlds!
>
> With all the modifications he eventually performed, this project evolved to
> a
> monster. He could lift the front wheels off the ground - seriously- in low
> gear.
The 340 gets my vote as the best high-performance smallblock v8 ever.
Screw the chevy 350, its good but it doesn't come CLOSE to a 340. A 340
will humiliate most big-blocks, and still leave the front end light
enough to set up for handling as well. Sadly, they only built about 1
340 for maybe every 50 small Chevies ever made. And probably 1 340 for
every 20 318s, for that matter.
Steve
>
> And no, the 340 wasn't a punched out 318 any more than a Chebby
> 350 is/was a punched out 265.
In other words, it is a punched out 318 (273, actually) in CONCEPT, but
not in practice. Same block archetecture- deck height, crank geometry,
bore spacing, bolt patterns, etc. But in practice the cylinder castincg
cores were changed so the block casting is internally different. If you
could REALLY "punch out" (ie bore) a 318 to 340 size, the 318 would have
inch-thick (a slight exaggeration) cylinder walls. The 360 goes a little
further in that the main bearing webs are different to accept larger
diameter main bearings.
Steve
> The blocks were different although the early 360s shared the same
> block casting number as the 340. Cylinder centers are the same,
> deck heights are the same, rods are different weight and casting
> number from what I've observed, cylinder heads are different in
> both valve size and combustion chamber volume, camshafts were
> different,
Yep, yep, yep....
timing chain and sprockets were different, main and
> rod bearings were different, different water pump, larger
> diameter by-pass hose, different ring groove depth in the
> pistons, different valve springs, different oil filter mount...
Now all THAT stuff is year-dependent as well. By the time the 340 was
being replaced by the 360, for example, all 3 engines were using the
same timing case/water pump castings and the bypass hoses were the same,
but in earlier years they differed. Sorta the same for rods- the 318
started out using the lighter 273 rods and floating pins, but in late
73/early 74 or about, it went to the 360 rod with a pressed pin. It gets
real interesting when a single engine architecture stays in production
for >40 years. :-)
rick...@gmail.com
rick...@gmail.com
Paul in Houston TX
Does it currently require high octane gas?
A good 4 bbl engine should draw additional air, otherwise it
will be about the same as a 2 bbl engine.
AMuzi
http://www.2040-parts.com/_content/items/images/97/6797/001.jpg
--
Andrew Muzi
<www.yellowjersey.org/>
Open every day since 1 April, 1971
Xeno
I suggest you get hold of these books;
Practical Engine Airflow - John Baechtel
Performance Automotive Math - John Baechtel
Then, when you understand how the engine breathes and, more importantly,
makes torque, you will be in a better position to use this website;
https://www.holley.com/retailer/carbselector/
Of course, you need to consider the type of use. A boat is a little
different from a car since you use the prop loading to control engine
RPM, gearbox not required - except for reversing and idling.
--
Xeno
Nothing astonishes Noddy so much as common sense and plain dealing.
(with apologies to Ralph Waldo Emerson)