So I got a simple Schumacher Electric 1 amp, 12 V trickle charger -
the kind with thin wires and light-duty clamps coming out of a wall-
wart. It's labeled as a "manual charger" and the box/directions state
that it's suitable for charging motorcycle and other small batteries,
or for keeping auto batteries warm. I wasn't sure if I could justify
getting anything more expensive like a higher output charger or maybe
even a float charger/maintainer with a charge sensing mechanism.
So I'm wondering how safe this is with a group 51 battery, which is on
the small side for auto batteries? I realize that it's not likely to
fully charge up a depleted battery unless it's on for days at a time.
How safe is a 1 amp charge if uncontrolled like a float charger? I've
heard some concerns that it could potentially overcharge - that maybe .
25 amp is about the limit for safe trickle charging. I've heard other
comments that it's effectively a trickle charge that could safely be
left on a fully charged car battery for days if not indefinitely.
A manual charger that size won't do much. However if that battery has
been drawn down that many times it is on borrowed time. I would replace
the battery, then fix the warning chime. Unless that car was made before
about 84-85 it has a lights on warning chime. The other option is to
install a battery buddy. They monitor the draw on the battery and cut
the power before it gets to low to fail starting the vehicle.
--
Steve W.
-jim
When I use a portable jump starter I typically leave it on for a
minute or so before disconnecting it. It should definitely charge up
the jump starter's battery a bit, and I understand that it might also
reduce the initial charging current to the car's battery. I've been
told by some people that a lower initial charging current is critical
to reduce battery capacity loss.
> A manual charger that size won't do much. However if that battery has
> been drawn down that many times it is on borrowed time. I would replace
> the battery, then fix the warning chime. Unless that car was made before
> about 84-85 it has a lights on warning chime.
My 2004 Subaru Impreza WRX doesn't have a headlamp warning chime, but
it does have a headlamp auto-off feature. Same goes for some
relatives' Toyota Camry.
I did some research and I think I know what the problem is.
Apparently the driver's side door open switch can get stuck to the
closed position. I've noticed that the dome light doesn't turn on
when the driver's side door is open and it's switched to the center
(door selected) position. Apparently the headlamp-on warning or key-
in-ignition warning chimes don't activate until the driver's side door
is sensed open.
http://vtec.net/forums/one-message?message_id=833002&page_number=1
As a follow-up, I got home and checked it for this little switch. The
first thing I noticed was that all three other doors worked fine with
the dome light. Next, the little switch felt loose. I first tried
prying it back (bending it) when I then noticed that there was a
little hatch that opened to reveal the screw. The little switch was
actually not connected to the rubber/metal switch cover. I think it
was supposed to be grounded to the body via the screw, but the ground
clips on the switch were always loose (might have even been shaking
around in there never depressed).
So now when the driver's side door is open and the headlights are on,
it gives off a loud whine. Of course it doesn't do anything when the
map lights are on. :-(
Tell your wife or teenager that the next time they leave the car light on
and the battery drains, they will need to pay for a tow truck to come out
for a jump...
End of problem, no trickle charger needed...
I've heard other
> comments that it's effectively a trickle charge that could safely be
> left on a fully charged car battery for days if not indefinitely.
IIRC, batteries were damaged in the old days right in the showroom because
of trickle chargers in the range of 1 -1.5 amps.
They might be left on charge for months ( thus making the dry charge battery
a step forward).
You have at least two or three options:
(1) Make sure all the lights and systems are off ( which sounds like it does
not work for you
and your present situation)
(2) Buy a unit which will sense your battery condition, and disconnect it
from the car's electrical
system if the battery is discharged to a low level. (Google for them. They
exist)
(3) Use the trickle charger as a matter of course. I dont like to leave a
battery a long time with
1 amp or more of charge, so I sometimes put a 12 v lamp in series with the
leads and decrease
the charge rate to a (bias level) 100-250 ma. Dead simple, and works fine.
Wattage of the
lamp determines the resistance, so you can select values to limit your
charge.
Turns out it did, and the advice that it should be fixed was sound.
It's a really loud continuous whine too. There would be no mistaking
that.
Well - the deal is that I'd end up paying for it, and occasionally I'm
the guilty party from turning on the lights during the day (typically
for visibility in forest roads).
The map lights however are usually not my fault and typically they
only require a jump if left on overnight or for days at home.
If it's a manual charger then you have to watch it. If it's a sealed
battery then you can't check the specific gravity so it's more difficult to
determine when the battery is fully charged. Personally I like to use a
Smart Charger and periodically use the Desulfate and Equalize features,
especially if one or two cells are a bit lower than the others. If the
Smart Charger shuts off and I don't think it's quite done yet (all cells not
equal) then I'll use a 1/2-1 amp charger for an extended period of time,
checking it regularly. But I don't think, under most circumstances, that
you can properly recharge a car battery with that low of a charge rate if
it's considerably discharged.
> Tell your wife or teenager that the next time they leave the car light on
> and the battery drains, they will need to pay for a tow truck to come out
> for a jump...
> End of problem, no trickle charger needed...
> Well - the deal is that I'd end up paying for it, and occasionally I'm
> the guilty party from turning on the lights during the day (typically for
> visibility in forest roads).
> The map lights however are usually not my fault and typically they only
> require a jump if left on overnight or for days at home.
Don't be such an enabler. Tell the kid to get his ass off his computer and
get a job--- and the old lady too.
And if your cognitive skills are such that you repeatedly leave your lights
on while driving in the woods, how are you going to remember to hook up the
charger every time you bring your car home? Also, a guy like you should
think twice before venturing out in the woods so dark and deep. You'll get
lost for sure and the fire department, cops or forest service will end up
wasting hundreds of thousands of taxpayer dollars mounting a search for
you...
Uh yeah.
Really - I got used to the headlamp switching off with the ignition on
my Subaru. My wife has also forgotten. It's not going to be a
problem now with the door-open switch fixed.
Didn't I mention that I always carry one of those portable battery
jump starters? I remember once driving the Civic to Lassen Volcanic
National Park, accidentally leaving the lights on for about an hour at
the trailhead. When I got back the starter wouldn't turn, I went to
the trunk to get the jump starter, and opened the hood to connect it.
Then a law enforcement park ranger came up, noticed the car with the
hood up, and asked if I needed a jump. I showed him the jump starter,
briefly explained what it did, and he said it sounded like a good
idea. This happened to be with the factory battery, which has since
been replaced.
That jump starter has helped out a bunch of time with weak/dying
batteries (before getting a replacement), lights on, etc. I've
actually used it several times to help friends or complete strangers
start their cars. It's a heck of a lot easier than trying to get
batteries close enough to each other and/or jumper cables that are
long enough. It's also great when I can't flag anyone down for a
jump.
So far nobody's had to fish me out on the trail. In fact once I
helped a lost kid (separated from his high school group) find his way
back to the trailhead. Otherwise they might have sent out search
teams to find him.
> Don't be such an enabler. Tell the kid to get his ass off his computer and
> get a job--- and the old lady too.
We had a nice little old aunt who could not remember to close the doors, or
glove
compartment, or anything else on her new Avalon. She would buy meat and
leave it
in the trunk for several days.
Finally, the family removed the map light, interior lights and trunk light.
That stopped
the dead batteries but not the roadkill smell.
On Jun 24, 11:22 am, "Steve W." <csr684...@yahoo.com> wrote:
I've done this with NIMH batteries and low amperage dumb chargers.
With this method you can't ruin the batteries and you'll always have a
spare set of fully charged batteries.
Again - I fixed the door switch and now the headlights on chime is
very, very noticeable. The key chime also now works too; that was
never there either. They both required the door switch to work and
that wasn't functional until I connected it and reseated it in the
door jamb.
I heard that there might be a small parasitic load from an unpowered
charger. Probably doesn't matter if it's recharged each day.
Hard recharges do damage batteries, and long slow charge works
reasonably well on dead ones.
However, heavy discharges do damage batteries. They may survive
several deep discharges with no apparent harm,
but each time a car battery is forced below 10 volts, plate damage
occurs in the form of sulfur dendrites(?)
Some are knocked off or dissolve during normal cycling, but not all,
and this takes up active area on the plates.
HTH
Ben
92-95 civics don't have a headlight chime. used to be available from
kmart or walmart or such (i got mine from jc whitney) but you can hook
up any kind of 12 volt chime/buzzer between the "hot when lights are
on" and "hot when ignition is on" terminals on the fuse block.
key chime, or headlight chime? key chime, i got (although it's
intermittent, which is worse than none at all). headlight chime, no.
good old volvo 240, same deal.
>
> Didn't I mention that I always carry one of those portable battery
> jump starters? I remember once driving the Civic to Lassen Volcanic
> National Park, accidentally leaving the lights on for about an hour at
> the trailhead. When I got back the starter wouldn't turn, I went to
> the trunk to get the jump starter, and opened the hood to connect it.
with a manual trans, i just try to always park on a hill. saved me a
few times.