I guess I was more fortunate. I only had put a leg-lock on the front
wheel to keep my body from spinning while I loosened the oil plug.
Another car, a dodo used the air ratchet on the wheels. Luckily the
nuts were softer than the wheel bolts, and I could replace them.
Maybe if I weighed 200+ lbs, I would have been able to loosen the
cross-threaded nuts myself.
> ...however faster ways have been developed in regards to tightening lug nuts,
> they
> are called "torque sticks". But like any tool, they are only as good as the guy
> using them, especially if he's using the wrong one.
hmmmm... so that's why those things are color coded! I thought they were just made
that way to make them look PRETTY. Blue is my favorite! :)
-Mark
Yes, you should find and stick with a qualified shop with certified technicians
you can trust to do the job right, or know that if something doesn't meet your
approval it will be corrected as necessary.
And yes, this will cost more. In any professional line of work, professionals
are worth more and get paid more. And yes, you don't always get what you paid
for if you patronize the wrong repair center.
Why don't more "technician" use torque wrenches? Laziness is one answer ...
however faster ways have been developed in regards to tightening lug nuts, they
are called "torque sticks". But like any tool, they are only as good as the guy
using them, especially if he's using the wrong one.
jk ASE Master Technician
Does that mean anything? Hmmmmm.
jk ASE Master Technician
When are they going to make a blonde one?
But let me correct the original question as the poser is confused
between an impact wrench and a torque wrench. I'm of the old school I
rarely use an impact wrench on lug nuts and even more rarely use a
torque wrench on lugnuts. I use a spider wrench, It's fast it 's made
for the job. Torque wrenches are for use where torque rating is
important.
Trapper
I use a spider too, but I always finish up with a torque wrench.
I, for one, can see NO fasteners in an automobile more important , or subject
to more widely varied stresses than the lugnuts.
The only thing that come close from a safety aspect are some suspesion
mountings -and even they become secondary if the wheel decides to part company
with the rest of the car.
Mark Becht MRB...@aol.com
Corben Super Ace builder
Ford Cortinae (that's plural!) Owner
Collector of Lost Causes and Orphans
(Formerly cali...@crl.com - and yes I should know better than AOL)
> Does that mean anything? Hmmmmm.
God, I hope not! That would mean that since BLUE is my favorite, I have some
sort of SMURF FETISH!
-Mark
I.e. I have a 88 Dodge Aries that recommends 95 lb-ft for each lug, so I set my
Sears Craftsman torque wrench to 95 lb-ft and loosen when car is on ground, raise
it up, then do whatever I need to do (brake service, rotation, etc.) and hand
tighten to secure it, then lower car onto ground, retighten bolts until that
clicking sound is made?
Everything seems to be correct, but I would recommend not to use torque wrench to
loosen nuts/bolts/screws.
Gennady
> I would recommend not to use torque wrench to loosen nuts/bolts/screws.
Exactly! This is a big No-No.
-Mark
The nost critical part of the car is the nut behind the steering
wheel.
Trapper
Use a torque wrench on your lugs. Incorrect torque on the wheel lugs
contributes to warping of the brake rotors. All of the Manufactures that
I am aware of have a torque spec for lug nuts.
Mike
Where did you read that workshop myth. Manufacturers have specified
lugnut torque settings but they give a fairly wide range for each
vehicle. I checked a few manuals most give 55 to 70 ft.lbs as a
range.
Brake warp is usually a manufacturing fault due to poor design and
quality control leading to unequal cooling of the disc surfaces. Of
course the manufacturers aren't going to admit that. Like I said if
lug nut toeque was critical they would supply torque wrenches in their
minimal roadside repair tool kit.
Trapper
the manufacturers have a torque spec for every fastener on the car.
--
george jefferson : geo...@sol1.lrsm.upenn.edu
to reply simply press "r"
-- I hate editing addresses more than I hate the spam!
I can see vastly uneven torque contributing to warpage..
It does... I've seen it in 2 (maybe 3) of my cars... Fortunately, if
you catch the problem before too many days (miles) have gone by, the
warpage is not usually permanent. (It's the whole plastic/elastic
deformation and hysterisis (sp?) metulargy problem...) After you have
your wheels off for any reason, *watch them* torque the lugs to spec.
Or take care to notice any pulsation in the brake pedal, especially when
you just start to apply force, so that you can catch any warpage before
it is permanent.
BTY
"Gennady P. Samokhin" wrote:
> Charlie B. Han wrote:
>
> > Wait.. so should I use torque wrenches to tighten/loosen my lug bolts or not?
> >
> > I.e. I have a 88 Dodge Aries that recommends 95 lb-ft for each lug, so I set my
> > Sears Craftsman torque wrench to 95 lb-ft and loosen when car is on ground, raise
> > it up, then do whatever I need to do (brake service, rotation, etc.) and hand
> > tighten to secure it, then lower car onto ground, retighten bolts until that
> > clicking sound is made?
>
> Everything seems to be correct, but I would recommend not to use torque wrench to
> loosen nuts/bolts/screws.
>
> Gennady
--
--------------------------------
Charlie B. Han
era...@cybernex.net
http://www2.cybernex.net/~eraser
> what's wrong with removing bolts with a torque wrench?
It can damage your torque wrench and/or throw it out of calibration.
-Mark Aarabi
ASE Master Tech
Every one has brought up a number of very good points on this subject.
I've had a conversation with every new tech that has went through our shop
about this, They never seem to get the point until......about 5 min. before
closing one day they're out in the parking lot with the service manager, a
service writer and a customer everyone looks mad except him. Looks like he's
about to cry or stick his head in the fan belt. I've never said a word
after, but they do seem to listen better. Better to learn from others
mistakes,and boy I've had about as much pratice with that as anyone.
.....CJ
> Charlie B. Han wrote:
>
> > what's wrong with removing bolts with a torque wrench?
>
> It can damage your torque wrench and/or throw it out of calibration.
>
Exactly!
Gennady
> I can see vastly uneven torque contributing to warpage..
It can, depending on what type of rotor you are working with.
The rotors that GM uses on their trucks and some of the
cars are these idiotic composite rotors that have a very
thin flange where the rotor is sandwiched beteen the hub
and the wheel. These particular rotors are extremely
sensitive to improper torqueing. And no matter what
a technician may say, it's impossible for him/her (gotta
be politically correct these days) to be able to be
accurate with an impact gun.
It's interesting, the year's that I've worked at GM
dealerships, we have had nothing but grief with those
composite rotors as far as warpage. And yet the
years that I worked at Chrysler, who didn't appear
to use them, we had very few problems with rotor
warpage issues. The GM composite rotors are
also more difficult to machine properly. You need
a top notch brake machine and the proper adapters
to achieve a good cut.
Personally, I use torque sticks at work, and use
a torque wrench on my wife's car. I don't want to
work on it any more then I have to. (grin)
Ian
Probably for the same reason they issue temporary spares and rinky dink jacks.
And sell cars that are at opposite extremes of spec as AOK
Maybe it is overkill, but I feel the peace of mind is worththe extra 2
minutes it takes.
>The nost critical part of the car is the nut behind the steering
>wheel.
>
Granted - No Contest - No Argument
Really? Then why do most Torque wrenchs say they work on either left
or right handed threads?
All my torque wrenches can be used in either direction. But I don't
use expensive precision instruments to do the job of a tire iron. I
don't have that kind of money to waste.
Trapper
Trapper, You seem to be a good tech and well educated. Why would you not
use a torque wrench in such a critical area? You wouldn't replace a head
and not use a torque wrench. The torque spec is there for a reason. I've
been taught that the high side of the spec should be used on new
fasteners and used fasteners should be set somewhere in the middle. The
key is all the bolts (or lugs in this case) should be torqued to the
same number. (I.E. 60 ft lb.) I would agree that today's vehicles seem
to have a problem with rotor warp. But as I see it this problem
manifested itself when the vehicles started going with multiple piece
rotors/hubs, strut type suspensions, rack and pinion steering, and non
asbestos brake pad material. With the multiple piece hub/rotor,
manufacturers have removed weight, thus heat transfer suffers. Rust and
dirt build up at the mating surfaces of the different pieces contribute
to run out and again heat transfer suffers. Having the torque on each
lug different means a uneven surface to surface contact (clamping force)
thus contributing to the condition. Strut type suspensions, independent
suspensions and rack type steering transmit more of what's going on at
the wheel into the vehicle and steering column. One of the biggest
factors is the difference in brake pad material. The new materials
actually transfer to the rotor surface, once a "high" spot gets created
it gets worse over time because more and more of the brake pad material
is transferred to the rotor.
You are right about the owners manual (at least the ones I looked at)
don't tell the consumer that the lugs need to be torqued. But all the
shop manuals do. Personally I have not had a flat tire in 10 years or
more (I'll probably have one tonight though, now that I said that!) and
the place where I bought my tires have free rotation and THEY use a
torque wrench. I do too when I have to remove a wheel for any reason.
Bottom line is -- I think you should use the torque wrench. The lug
torque's are called out in the manuals so they must be there for a
reason. I for one do not want to contribute to a problem we all know
exists.
Mike
Ford tech 25+ years
My opinions in no way reflect upon the folks I work for or with, and
these are MY opinions.
No, they wouldn't. Not until they were suitably and successfully sued over
it.
>Charlie B. Han wrote:
>
>> what's wrong with removing bolts with a torque wrench?
>
>It can damage your torque wrench and/or throw it out of calibration.
I see no problem with using a torque wrench as an extended reach
ratchet to loosen something requiring minimal torque. After all, most
torque wrenches have a reverse ratchet setting. I doubt that it cares
what direction you're twisting the wrench. An example is removing a
hard to reach oil filter. I set the torque to about 60 ft. lbs. (for
overkill) and there's barely any stress on it when removing the
filter.
Ed
>:
>:Brake warp is usually a manufacturing fault due to poor design and
>:quality control leading to unequal cooling of the disc surfaces. Of
>:course the manufacturers aren't going to admit that. Like I said if
>
>I can see vastly uneven torque contributing to warpage..
On many vehicles the lug nuts clamp both the wheel and rotor in place,
so uniform torque is important for alignment.
Ed
>Where did you read that workshop myth. Manufacturers have specified
>lugnut torque settings but they give a fairly wide range for each
>vehicle. I checked a few manuals most give 55 to 70 ft.lbs as a
>range.
Those 55 to 70 numbers sound low to me. With softer aluminum wheels
it's especially important to be accurate. My truck wheels call for 80
ft. lbs., for instance. Without a torque wrench it's easy to
overtighten a wheel by jumping on the bar.
Then there are small bolts (water pumps, 4wd hubs) that require only
~10 ft. lbs., but people crank them down to 20 or 30 and wonder why
they break.
Ed
-Mark
So now we are going to bend and buckle the wheel hub with differential
torque? Get real, where are you getting the fulcrum points to let
alone the force needed to create the bending moments.
Trapper
Trapper
>>On many vehicles the lug nuts clamp both the wheel and rotor in place,
>>so uniform torque is important for alignment.
>>
>>Ed
>
>So now we are going to bend and buckle the wheel hub with differential
>torque? Get real, where are you getting the fulcrum points to let
>alone the force needed to create the bending moments.
It's a subtle thing. Discs with a runout of only 0.1mm (0.004") can
cause brake chatter. The metal can expand unevenly with different
torques on the nuts.
Ed
Ed Dreyer wrote:
--
>On Mon, 17 May 1999 21:13:19 GMT, Tra...@3web.net (Trapper) wrote:
>
>>>On many vehicles the lug nuts clamp both the wheel and rotor in place,
>>>so uniform torque is important for alignment.
>>>
>>>Ed
>>
>>So now we are going to bend and buckle the wheel hub with differential
>>torque? Get real, where are you getting the fulcrum points to let
>>alone the force needed to create the bending moments.
>
>It's a subtle thing. Discs with a runout of only 0.1mm (0.004") can
>cause brake chatter. The metal can expand unevenly with different
>torques on the nuts.
>
>Ed
Does not compute, youcannot translate the bolt tensile forcein the
direction you are imagining. Brake chatter is more likely to be result
of loss of parallelness of the braking surfaces rather than run out
of one surface. Not to say that run out is not important but the
calipers are designed to move with fair degree of lateral movement.
Trapper
Trapper
On Wed, 19 May 1999 20:23:33 GMT, "Charlie B. Han"
<era...@cybernex.net> wrote:
>exactly. is NASA going to say "oh, its only a .10mm gap in the Fuel O-Ring
>for the solid rocket boosters, its not noticeable" until the entire thing
>blows up
>
>Ed Dreyer wrote:
>
>> On Mon, 17 May 1999 21:13:19 GMT, Tra...@3web.net (Trapper) wrote:
>>
>> >>On many vehicles the lug nuts clamp both the wheel and rotor in place,
>> >>so uniform torque is important for alignment.
>> >>
>> >>Ed
>> >
>> >So now we are going to bend and buckle the wheel hub with differential
>> >torque? Get real, where are you getting the fulcrum points to let
>> >alone the force needed to create the bending moments.
>>
>> It's a subtle thing. Discs with a runout of only 0.1mm (0.004") can
>> cause brake chatter. The metal can expand unevenly with different
>> torques on the nuts.
>>
>> Ed
>
Dave
David Tomayko wrote:
--
Dave
what was the application that was spec'd (or guessed) at 5-7 lb that
didn't just shear off at 150?
--
george jefferson : geo...@sol1.lrsm.upenn.edu
to reply simply press "r"
-- I hate editing addresses more than I hate the spam!
I can't buy that. The tools supplied for vehicles are designed for
emergency use and are therefore minimal in weight and design. They know
that if you are going to do the work yourself, you've got your own
tools anyway. Most importantly, however, is the cost factor. They
probably pay less than $1.00 for each of those cute stamped-iron lug
bars they throw in the trunk. They would probably have to pay $2-$5
apeice for cheap torque wrenches. Multiply the difference by the number
of vehicles they sell each year, and how many millions of dollars do
the beancounters save? Come on! They are cheap, emergency use ONLY
tools! (Except for all those yahoos that like to drive around on their
spare tire for a month, of course) If you use that nut bar too much, it
will strip or break, then you'll have to leave your torque wrench in
the trunk.
Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/
Share what you know. Learn what you don't.
Know why the put $.50 cent jacks in cars??
Cause they ran out of the $.25 ones...
--
Tekkie
Remove asterisk to reply; it is an anti-spam measure.
dpot...@my-deja.com wrote:
>
> > A coligue was using a click off torque wrench. He set it to the
> lowest
> > setting, and then proceeded to torque it until his shoulder started
> > hurting. I think this is why auto companies won't ever put torque
> > wrenches into cars.
>
> I can't buy that. The tools supplied for vehicles are designed for
> emergency use and are therefore minimal in weight and design. They know
> that if you are going to do the work yourself, you've got your own
> tools anyway. Most importantly, however, is the cost factor. They
> probably pay less than $1.00 for each of those cute stamped-iron lug
> bars they throw in the trunk. They would probably have to pay $2-$5
Dan
c...@mvp.net wrote:
>
> A $2-$5 torque wrench is exactly as useful as a nut wrench. Good tools
> cost a lot of money, people. And a good, accurate torque wrench is
> expensive - and it has to be maintained and re-calibrated periodically.
--
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Daniel Wolstenholme email: dwol...@ctr.vt.edu
Research Associate, Electrical Engineering
Virginia Tech Center for Transportation Research Blacksburg, VA
----------------------------------------------------------------------
i'm suprised the tools and spare have not become optional..
Good thing I don't work construction (nails, etc) any more, and modern
radials seldom fail. I haven't had to change a tire on the side of the
road in 10+ years.
(of course, having said that, it'll happen tomorrow...)
aem sends....
Very, very rarely. As long as the wrench is within 10%, I wouldn't
worry about it. For wheel lugs, the most important part is getting
them evenly torqued.
1. Unload all the tension in the wrench (return to "stop" setting)
after each use (not after each bolt, just before putting it back in the tool
box or drawer)
2. Store it in a padded case and make sure it never gets banged
hard or dropped when it is out.
If you are a strong guy, you will buy one after you break enough bolts .
. .
Daniel Wolstenholme wrote:
> So how often do torque wrenches need to be recalibrated, anyway?
> Especially one used at home on one car (i.e., rarely)?
>
> Dan
>
> c...@mvp.net wrote:
> >
> > A $2-$5 torque wrench is exactly as useful as a nut wrench. Good tools
> > cost a lot of money, people. And a good, accurate torque wrench is
> > expensive - and it has to be maintained and re-calibrated periodically.
>
> --
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> Daniel Wolstenholme email: dwol...@ctr.vt.edu
> Research Associate, Electrical Engineering
> Virginia Tech Center for Transportation Research Blacksburg, VA
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
--
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
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S.G. Ouderkirk
Ouderkirk Audio
giv...@flash.net
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To protect from threats both foreign and domestic. Should a
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The government should provide nothing but the protection from the
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------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
<SNIP>
I'd like to add:
I follow the above procedure, and since I only work on my own (4) cars I
feel comfortable having my torque wrenches cal'd every few years or
before I build an engine, whichever comes first.
I never use a torque wrench as a breaker-bar either (they're cheaper
than torque wrenches anyway)...
BTW I'm fairly strong for my size (5'8" 125#). I've had great fun over
the years walking up to one of my pals that outweighs me by 100# and is
struggling with a bolt. I say: "Can I give it a try?" and get this "you
gotta be SH#$$#NG me!" look...
A little leverage in the right place and "pop"... Won a few bets over
the years that way too<BG>!
Phil G.
Been there done that myself being faily tall at 6 foot but 140 pounds
and small framed. Just apply the math to the angles your working with
and its no trouble at all