Split CV boots. Any good?
Pavel Plekhanov
original one on my Honda Accord '83. The seam is fastened by pins and
does not get anywhere close to being sealed. This does not look right to
me, but maybe I am overlooking something. Is that actually OK? Can anybody
share their experience with these things? Thanks.
Mark Streed
debris from entering the joint. As you see this is almost impossible to do
with this type of boot.
Pavel Plekhanov <ps...@duke.edu> wrote in message
news:Pine.SOL.3.91.990831...@godzilla6.acpub.duke.edu...
Mark Aarabi
Dave
speedyboot I think was the brand) resulted in the same thing you saw.
When turning sharply, the seam opened up. They also spilled out their
grease contents almost immediately in use.
Once I found out how inexpensive real 1 piece boots cost, I haven't
bothered with the split ones.
Sure the labor to change a boot is hell, but I clean out and repack
the joint with grease which involves removal anyways.
Dave
On Tue, 31 Aug 1999 21:00:20 -0400, Pavel Plekhanov <ps...@duke.edu>
wrote:
Tr6jkjr
KDH
Both the glue-together and screw-together are worthless. By a miracle, I
was able to get one to take once. And, surprisingly, it outlasted the
regular boot placed on the other side a month later. The trouble is,
however, installing it properly.
If you have a boot that's been open long enough to throw most of the
grease, go ahead and swap the whole axle for a rebuilt. Most rebuilders
charge only $100 and your old axle for a nice, clean, easy to install
replacement. There are plenty of specialty operations doing rebuilding
locally. Be wary of discount chains and their axles. You'll never know
how good it is until you take your car for a drive, and it can be
heartbreaking to experience trouble after the hassle of swapping out axles.
john doe
boot on my 89 Caravan. It uses small bolts to hold the boot together. I
didn't feel confident or ambitious enough to try to remove the axle myself
and use a solid boot. I think I must have noticed the tear in my CV boot
soon after it occurred because there was still lots of grease in the joint
and the joint was not making any clicking sounds or showing any obvious
signs of damage.
I installed the split boot about 2 weeks ago and so far it seems to be doing
it's job. I've been taking a look at it every few days to make sure it's OK.
I bought an extra set of clamps so that later I can remove the boot, clean,
and re-grease the joint if I want to do that, and also in case one of the
clamps might happen to come off and need replacing.
Before I decided to try the split boot I left a note in one of the Usenet
groups, I think the Chrysler group, and asked for advice. Most of the
replies I got were positive. One fellow said he had installed a split boot
on his vehicle about 2 years ago and it was still working. Another person
said that some car manufacturer (I forget which one) uses split boots as
original equipment.
The split boot cost me $15 and I installed it myself. Some of the estimates
I got for a mechanic to install the solid boot were around $100 or more. I
figured it was worth taking the chance on trying the split boot. So far, so
good.
J Doe
Pavel Plekhanov <ps...@duke.edu> wrote in message
news:Pine.SOL.3.91.990831...@godzilla6.acpub.duke.edu...
> I've just bought a split CV boot (EZ Boot made by New Alloy) to replace
the
> original one on my Honda Accord '83. The seam is fastened by pins and
> does not get anywhere close to being sealed. This does not look right to
> me, but maybe I am overlooking something. Is that actually OK? Can anybody
Mike Walsh
very well on some cars and not on others. I have had clearance problems
with the ones that use little bolts. The best are the glue together
type, but i have not seen them in more than 5 years.
Pavel Plekhanov wrote:
>
> I've just bought a split CV boot (EZ Boot made by New Alloy) to replace the
> original one on my Honda Accord '83. The seam is fastened by pins and
> does not get anywhere close to being sealed. This does not look right to
> me, but maybe I am overlooking something. Is that actually OK? Can anybody
> share their experience with these things? Thanks.
--
Mike Walsh
Palm Beach Gardens, Florida, U.S.A.
Akhilesh Bajaj
car. I used split boots once. They SUCK. If i were you, i;d replace them
ASAP with regular boots (probably factory) . $100 is too much. $70
is more approporiate for a boot. Make sure you stand there and watch them
do it. Go to a good independent mechanic for your maek of car.
Hope this helps....
-akhilesh
redneck
else did either. just had a customer's car in with two like you're talking
about...both looked very recently installed...and both were leaking their
grease...i'd stay away from them..if you can't install proper ones yourself,
have someone else do it for you or just replace the entire half-shaft...
rebal250
was driving a nissan on the lift out side the shop, the
owner was watching, she freaked out cause she thought that
was just so full of danger, then when i got under the car,
with my head by the tire, the tire was hanging off about1
inch of tread, well she freaked again, saying the tire was
surely gonna pop and smash my head, its a bad idea for the
car owner to watch you work, cause they dont know how to
work on cars, so your way of working on a car might be
normal way of doing it, but the owner might think its
crazy, and anyway there not supposed to be in the shop
anyway!
* Sent from RemarQ http://www.remarq.com The Internet's Discussion Network *
The fastest and easiest way to search and participate in Usenet - Free!
john doe
my CV joint boot and the time I finally got around to installing the split
boot kit. I'm wondering now if maybe I should have used something like
plastic wrap or Saran wrap (the thin plastic wrap used for sandwiches and
such) and wrapped many layers around the torn CV joint boot and maybe used
plastic wire ties on the ends to hold it temporarily? I know this is flimsy
and wouldn't last long but maybe it would help protect the CV joint for a
few days until the owner decided how to fix it properly.
J Doe
===========================
Mike Walsh <mike...@gate.net> wrote in message
news:37CD2BF2...@gate.net...
> Split boots are not designed specifically for one model. They will fit
> very well on some cars and not on others. I have had clearance problems
> with the ones that use little bolts. The best are the glue together
> type, but i have not seen them in more than 5 years.
>
> Pavel Plekhanov wrote:
> >
> > I've just bought a split CV boot (EZ Boot made by New Alloy) to replace
the
> > original one on my Honda Accord '83. The seam is fastened by pins and
> > does not get anywhere close to being sealed. This does not look right to
> > me, but maybe I am overlooking something. Is that actually OK? Can
anybody
> > share their experience with these things? Thanks.
>
Akhilesh Bajaj
saying makes no sense whatsoever.
-akhilesh
........CHECK IT OUT..........
john doe
Mike Walsh <mike...@gate.net> wrote in message
news:37CD2BF2...@gate.net...
> Split boots are not designed specifically for one model. They will fit
> very well on some cars and not on others. I have had clearance problems
> with the ones that use little bolts. The best are the glue together
> type, but i have not seen them in more than 5 years.
Some split boots are designed for a particular model. Or, maybe it is more
correct to say they are designed for a group of models which use the same
style CV joint. In my case, the Haynes manual said the Caravan could have
any of 3 or 4 different brands of CV joint. The various brands of CV joints
are different shapes and diameters. The Haynes manual showed diagrams
concerning how to identify the particular brand of CV joint you have. One
way was to count the number of folds in the CV joint boot and to note the
style of the ends of the boot.
There may very well be univeral boots that will fit any CV joint. But there
also are some brands that have specific part numbers for various models or
types of CV joints.
J Doe
john doe
rebal250 <rebal250...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:112cf6a7...@usw-ex0108-057.remarq.com...
> why would you want the owner to stand there and watch?
I can think of several reasons.
To make sure the job is actually done.
To make sure the job is done right.
To see how it's done so the owner could possibly learn how to do it himself.
Most mechanic shops won't let customers in the repair area for insurance
reasons, I think.
Akhilesh Bajaj
-akhilesh
Ray J
I'm a computer tech and there isn't much worse than the
customer hanging off my shoulder trying to see what's
going on and being helpful. It really makes me nervous
to not have an "oops" etc.
I would imagine most mechanics don't want to reef on stuck
bolts etc. while the owner is there having a heart attack.
Plus when they are calling your car all sorts of names you
probably don't want to hear it anyway.
My 2 cents - find a good shop you can trust or DIY.
Ray
Akhilesh Bajaj
watched? :-) I have watched for many years now, and never had a [roblem.
But then i tend to steer clear of airheads, scam artisits and general
losers.
:-)
akhilesh