Unable to Tighten GM Side Mount Battery Terminal
KC
negative battery cable terminal will not get very tight when attached
to the battery.
I can snug it up to where it just begins to get tight, but that is as
much as I can get out of it. It feels as though there is not enough
depth to the terminal threads going in to the battery. The other
terminal tightens up normally and has no problems. The threads in the
battery are fine. I have tried other batteries and have the same
problem with the negative battery terminal..
Has anyone else ran across this issue before, and if so how did you
fix the problem?. I am planning on replacing the whole cable, but
would like to know if there is anything else I should try first.
Thanks in advance for your help.
KC
extended lengths (see links below). How do you remove the old terminal
bolt from the cable? What holds it in place?
Standard bolt: http://tinyurl.com/5stfep
Extended bolt: http://tinyurl.com/5rycdq
Supplier's website: http://www.hifisoundconnection.com
idbwill
Just use a bolt and a nut!
box...@sasktel.net
HLS
"KC" <cle...@email.toast.net> wrote in message
news:8e6bae40-617d-4d8f...@x35g2000hsb.googlegroups.com...
> OK - I found that you can purchase terminal bolts in both standard and
> extended lengths (see links below). How do you remove the old terminal
> bolt from the cable? What holds it in place?
I've bought the replacement terminal bolts at auto parts stores, like
Autozone.
The old bolt will pull out of the terminal with a little elbow grease.
Clean the innards of the cable well before putting it back together. GM
side terminals
can be a PITA when they get corroded
KC
be of any use in extracting the terminal bolt from the battery cable?
Mike Romain
No, the bolt just muscles out past the rubber boot that is holding it in
place. Not that hard to do. Maybe a pair of vise grips on the head
might give you more leverage to pop it out or you could put a slit in
the rubber with a razor blade to make it easier.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
'New' frame in the works for '08. Some Canadian Bush Trip and Build
Photos: http://mikeromainjeeptrips.shutterfly.com
Tegger
@nlpi069.nbdc.sbc.com:
> GM side terminals can be a PITA when they get corroded
>
>
What's the point of side-mount terminals?
--
Tegger
KC
I'd like to know the answer to Tegger's question, too. I've heard
opinions about side terminals ranging from it was purely a money grab
by GM to side mount connections seal the battery-to-cable connection
better than top post connections.
Larry W
With over 30 years in the car repair business, I've probably had less than 5
cars that wouldn't start because of a problem with a side terminal.
In contrast, conventional top terminals have made me a good chunk of money over
the years.
Top Side terminals can be a pain to jump but they are much more reliable.
Larry
Tegger
news:4857bf5f$0$31741$4c36...@roadrunner.com:
Now, why would this be so? What would be the specific technical reason side
terminals would be more reliable than top terminals?
I'm not being snarky here, I'm genuinely curious. I cannot think of a
reason one would be a better electrical connection than the other.
--
Tegger
Steve Austin
GM is going away from side terminals. Too many leaky batteries. Mopar
is using more and more side terminals.
jim
He didn't say one made a better electrical connection. He said one is more
reliable. I don't know for sure why but I would agree the observation is
correct. Assuming a battery lives long enough eventually the connection will
fail on any battery due to corrosion. The side mount probably are better at
keeping out the moisture and battery fumes that cause corrosion.
-jim
>
> --
> Tegger
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Nate Nagel
One would think the side mounts would actually be more likely to leak,
being below the level of the acid.
nate
--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel
HLS
"Nate Nagel" <njn...@roosters.net> wrote in message
> One would think the side mounts would actually be more likely to leak,
> being below the level of the acid.
>
> nate
IMO, the side terminals are no more likely to leak than the top terminals.
BUT
GM often combines three cables into that side terminals...And if the
terminal corrodes
(which they do), one or more of these cables may suffer.
Been there, done that. It is not a conjecture...it is a real problem.
jim
Nate Nagel wrote:
> >
> > He didn't say one made a better electrical connection. He said one is more
> > reliable. I don't know for sure why but I would agree the observation is
> > correct. Assuming a battery lives long enough eventually the connection will
> > fail on any battery due to corrosion. The side mount probably are better at
> > keeping out the moisture and battery fumes that cause corrosion.
>
> One would think the side mounts would actually be more likely to leak,
> being below the level of the acid.
Well yes. I suppose if the battery casing starts to leak out its contents
your screwed either way. But the issue of maintaining a good connection
for the life of the battery is usually about keeping stuff from the
environment around the connection from getting in. If a side mount is
properly installed it has an air tight seal which is more effective than
the top post variety.
-jim
Steve Austin
I usually grease my top posts (when the crap box I'm driving has them)
up with trans gel or spray high tack gasket cement on them.
HLS
"Steve Austin" <saus...@twcny.rr.com> wrote in message news:4858fbc0$0$4069
>
> I usually grease my top posts (when the crap box I'm driving has them) up
> with trans gel or spray high tack gasket cement on them.
I use Vaseline on mine, and it works well. Doesnt melt and run away as one
might
expect.
I dont find any particular advantage for one type of terminal over the
other. Neither
lasts forever; either with reasonable maintenance works fine.
jim
HLS wrote:
>
> "Steve Austin" <saus...@twcny.rr.com> wrote in message news:4858fbc0$0$4069
> >
> > I usually grease my top posts (when the crap box I'm driving has them) up
> > with trans gel or spray high tack gasket cement on them.
>
> I use Vaseline on mine, and it works well. Doesnt melt and run away as one
> might
> expect.
>
> I dont find any particular advantage for one type of terminal over the
> other. Neither
> lasts forever;
Lasting forever is not the question. I have taken apart side mounted
terminals that have been installed for 3-5 years and found the sealed
inner metal parts to be still like new. That doesn't happen with top
posts. It doesn't matter if the top posts are sealed with a rubber boot or
with vaseline or lacquer or whatever - Taking them apart after 3-5 years
of service they never look like new. The simple fact that you feel the
need to add sealant of some kind is an indication of the problem with top
posts. Not that there aren't advantages to top post batteries, but they do
on average require more maintenance.
-jim
either with reasonable maintenance works fine.
ray
I've heard that it reduces corrosion, and I believe it.
I also like the fact that you can't short the battery out on the hood if
it's too tall.
That said, jumping cars with sideposts is a PITA on a good day. Some
cars it's like they go out of their way to bury the damn things so you
can't get a jumper cable in there.
Ray
HLS
"jim" <"sjedgingN0sp"@m...@mwt.net> wrote in message
news:1213799049_8995@isp.n...
> Lasting forever is not the question. I have taken apart side mounted
> terminals that have been installed for 3-5 years and found the sealed
> inner metal parts to be still like new. That doesn't happen with top
> posts. It doesn't matter if the top posts are sealed with a rubber boot or
> with vaseline or lacquer or whatever - Taking them apart after 3-5 years
> of service they never look like new. The simple fact that you feel the
> need to add sealant of some kind is an indication of the problem with top
> posts. Not that there aren't advantages to top post batteries, but they do
> on average require more maintenance.
>
> -jim
I more or less agree. Side terminals would not be expected to go corrosed
in 3-5
years, but as the car ages they sometimes DO become internally corroded,.
leading
to difficulties. Whether top or side posts, I maintain mine regularly and
usually apply
Vaseline to help offset corrosion. They require minimal maintainance to
keep them
working well.
sdlomi2
"Tegger" <teg...@tegger.c0m> wrote in message
news:Xns9ABFEF6D...@208.90.168.18...
I'd bet the decision was a joint one between corrosion-proofing AND
shipping. Ever notice at battery stores--not Sears, etc., but battery
distributors--how they stack the side-post batteries several deep? Don't
think they do so with the top posts. s
Steve W.
I asked an Exide rep about it once. he told me it was because of a few
things. One was hood clearance related, another was that it reduces the
stress on the cable and terminal and the last was that it was safety
related (the side terminals are harder to short out with metal items).
--
Steve W.
Steve
My experience is that terminal corrosion is 100% a function of how
tightly the battery case is sealed. Neither top nor side posts will
corrode with a sealed battery like an Optima. Yes, I HAVE removed Optima
top-post clamps after 5-6 years and found shiny metal under the clamp.
Both types will also corrode (and BADLY) with any battery that has a
poor vapor seal around the terminal itself. I've seen plenty of
side-post batteries with the threaded bolt eaten away to nothing.
Tegger
I suspect the primary reason is hood clearance, which would have been
of prime importance in the days before the NHTSA created the
"safety" bulging-hood look.
That and shipping costs.
--
Tegger
HLS
"Steve" <n...@spam.thanks> wrote in message news:L_2dnTtSz4U9-
>
> My experience is that terminal corrosion is 100% a function of how tightly
> the battery case is sealed. Neither top nor side posts will corrode with a
> sealed battery like an Optima. Yes, I HAVE removed Optima top-post clamps
> after 5-6 years and found shiny metal under the clamp. Both types will
> also corrode (and BADLY) with any battery that has a poor vapor seal
> around the terminal itself. I've seen plenty of side-post batteries with
> the threaded bolt eaten away to nothing.
True enough, but few of us opt for Optima.
Side post and top post can both corrode severely. It is really not much of
a
task to take the darn things off, check their condition, and clean and
grease them
if need be..
Steve
>
> "Steve" <n...@spam.thanks> wrote in message news:L_2dnTtSz4U9-
>>
>> My experience is that terminal corrosion is 100% a function of how
>> tightly the battery case is sealed. Neither top nor side posts will
>> corrode with a sealed battery like an Optima. Yes, I HAVE removed
>> Optima top-post clamps after 5-6 years and found shiny metal under the
>> clamp. Both types will also corrode (and BADLY) with any battery that
>> has a poor vapor seal around the terminal itself. I've seen plenty of
>> side-post batteries with the threaded bolt eaten away to nothing.
>
>
> True enough, but few of us opt for Optima.
My experience is that its a break-even on cost. They last longer, but
that initial buy is some serious sticker shock.
>
> Side post and top post can both corrode severely. It is really not
> much of a
> task to take the darn things off, check their condition, and clean and
> grease them
> if need be..
Nope, but most people never open their cars' hoods anymore.
I've mentioned that I just bought a Jeep from a co-worker, and in going
through it I find it appalling how many little things are so nasty and
gnarly that would *never* get that way in one of my cars. He took care
of it- I doubt it ever missed am oil change- but he did NOTHING himself
so none of it was done with any care at all. Just the necessary service,
nevermind wiping up a drop of spilled fluid here, cleaning a battery
terminal there, wiping off some oxidation there, picking some leaves
out of a cranny over there. It all adds up over time.
The other lesson I learned was just how many danged fluids there are to
change in a 4x4. OK, so its just a transfer case and front axle more
than any other vehicle, but it seems like a lot more when you do ALL the
fluids within a week!
HLS
"Steve" <n...@spam.thanks> wrote in message news:Tv-
> Nope, but most people never open their cars' hoods anymore.
>
> I've mentioned that I just bought a Jeep from a co-worker, and in going
> through it I find it appalling how many little things are so nasty and
> gnarly that would *never* get that way in one of my cars. He took care of
> it- I doubt it ever missed am oil change- but he did NOTHING himself so
> none of it was done with any care at all. Just the necessary service,
> nevermind wiping up a drop of spilled fluid here, cleaning a battery
> terminal there, wiping off some oxidation there, picking some leaves out
> of a cranny over there. It all adds up over time.
>
> The other lesson I learned was just how many danged fluids there are to
> change in a 4x4. OK, so its just a transfer case and front axle more than
> any other vehicle, but it seems like a lot more when you do ALL the fluids
> within a week!
That is for sure... Buying a used car nowadays, from an individual, is an
exercise
in risk taking. I dont know about the dealership or factory certified used
cars.
I had gotten off my soapbox about dealership mechanics, but recently had
another runin with them. Case in point, my FIL's Sonoma which ate an
alternator at 30,000 miles. Took it to his friend, who is service manager
at a local dealership. Replaced the alternator, but when they brought it
home
the Service Engine Soon light came on.
I pulled the codes, which indicated oxygen sensor, but took it back to the
friendly local dealership. They installed a new ECM, reprogrammed it...
SES came back on, and the truck ran and shifted like the devil.
Took it back.. They replaced the O2 sensors. SES light came back on.
Took it back.. This time they found what was wrong, about a thousand bucks
later..
That service manager IS a good person. But somewhere, something went wrong.
Were they guessing, or diagnosing??
It was not my car, my money, nor my choice where to take it, but this
scenario just
doesnt smell right.
Mike Romain
I live in the rust belt and the Optima battery posts will still corrode
to the point of a no start condition. This has happened on both our
Jeeps and my CJ is now in need of another terminal clean.
Now it 'has' been 4 years on this connection, but they still do corrode.
Mike
Steve
>
>
> That is for sure... Buying a used car nowadays, from an individual, is
> an exercise
> in risk taking.
Not so much in my case: I've known this car since it was new and worked
on it once or twice for the co-worker who owned it. But it sure shows a
difference in "car care" vs "basic maintenance."
mr158912
battery not allowing it to seat all the way in and did you strip it out??
KC wrote:
> OK - I found that you can purchase terminal bolts in both standard and
> extended lengths (see links below). How do you remove the old terminal
> bolt from the cable? What holds it in place?
>
> Standard bolt: http://tinyurl.com/5stfep
> Extended bolt: http://tinyurl.com/5rycdq
>
> Supplier's website: http://www.hifisoundconnection.com
molin...@gmail.com
bi...@batterybill.com
> maybe just get a flat washer and put it in there to fill the space.
Make sure that the lead of the battery cable attaches to the battery face-to-face and any washer goes on the screw side, for best high current transfer at the lower auto voltage of 12.8 volts.
Gebbi
> GUEST wrote:
> The car is a 1995 Oldsmobile Cutlass with the 3.4L DOHC engine. The
> negative battery cable terminal will not get very tight when
attached
> to the battery.
>
> I can snug it up to where it just begins to get tight, but that is
as
> much as I can get out of it. It feels as though there is not enough
> depth to the terminal threads going in to the battery. The other
> terminal tightens up normally and has no problems. The threads in
the
> battery are fine. I have tried other batteries and have the same
> problem with the negative battery terminal..
>
> Has anyone else ran across this issue before, and if so how did you
> fix the problem?. I am planning on replacing the whole cable, but
> would like to know if there is anything else I should try first.
>
> Thanks in advance for your help.
I have tried other
batteries and have the same problem with the negative battery
terminal.