yup, you always want the stall speed to be lower than cruise RPM.
nate
--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel
If your racing it then get the higher stall. If you intend to drive it
on the street stay with the stock unit.
Think of it this way the stock unit is like letting out the clutch on a
manual trans at 1500rpms. The high stall is like waiting until 2500 rpm.
With a 2.78?? rear gear the high stall would be a cruising nightmare...
You would be cruising in 2nd gear just to keep the car moving!
--
Steve W.
Not a good comparison.
When you let out the clutch in a manual vehicle, you start to apply
power to the drive train through the clutches slip range until the
clutch is fully applied and at it's minimum slippage (slight creep).
With a torque converter in an automatic, as soon as the transmission
engages the clutch bands on the 1st gear, the torque converter begins
applying power to the drive train through it's torque multiplying range
starting from idle RPM. The stall speed is the point at which the torque
converter is no longer providing torque multiplication and normally the
point that a lockup torque converter will be locked, somewhat similar to
a fully applied manual clutch.
>
> With a 2.78?? rear gear the high stall would be a cruising nightmare...
> You would be cruising in 2nd gear just to keep the car moving!
Ideally you would want the stall RPM to be slightly below the normal
cruising RPM.
There was a 2.56 option also available. Thank god it doesn't have
that.
You should definitely change the rear end gear before raising the stall.
high stall convertors generate more heat and hurt gas mileage,
especially if you wind up cruising below the stall speed so that its
always in "stall" mode.