I'm an amateur astronomer. I often go to observing sessions where white
light is prohibited, since it would ruin people's night vision. But when
I'm getting equipment out of my minivan (Dodge Caravan, 1995) or loading it
back in, I'd like some dim red illumination, which is OK because it doesn't
harm night vision.
So I've installed a cutout switch for the map lights and have changed the
dome lights to have red bulbs. For now, I've taken the bulbs out of the
liftgate lights because I couldn't get red bulbs in that size.
Problem: The red "mood lights" that I got at the local Pep Boys are not red
enough; they're what I'd call pinkish. What I need, to be
night-vision-safe, is a really deep red. Red LEDs would be ideal, and
indeed the local Pep Boys had LED equivalents of a couple of common
automotive bulbs, but not these.
I know from past experience that ordinary red paint or nail polish, on
miniature bulbs, doesn't hold up; it cracks and peels.
The bulbs for which I need red equivalents are type 211-2 (looks a lot like
an old-style fuse, contacts on the end) and 563 (unusual arch-like contacts
on both ends).
Any ideas?
--
Clear skies,
Michael Covington
Author, Astrophotography for the Amateur
http://www.CovingtonInnovations.com/astro <><
"Michael A. Covington" wrote:
>
> I know this is an odd pair of newsgroups, but... are there paints available
> that can be applied to a miniature incandescent bulb to color it red?
>
> I'm an amateur astronomer. I often go to observing sessions where white
> light is prohibited, since it would ruin people's night vision. But when
> I'm getting equipment out of my minivan (Dodge Caravan, 1995) or loading it
> back in, I'd like some dim red illumination, which is OK because it doesn't
> harm night vision.
Krylon now makes a line of transparent color paints that are sold in
hobby stores to make fake stained glass. Hobby Lobby is the store
in my area that carries it. I use it to obtain colors not normally
possible in neon by painting the tubing. Works great. Probably
take several coats for what you want to do.
If you can't find that, automotive candy apple paint also works. I
use the SEM brand of tint. This is a concentrated dye that is added
to the clear base of the paint process of your choice. Acrylic
enamel works fine for glass. I apply it with an air brush. A can
of dye is about $35. I get mine from the local store that caters to
auto painters.
A final option that would be the most permanent and easy to move
from bulb to bulb would be a short hunk of colored glass tubing.
Ruby red neon tubing would do the trick. The largest normally
available is 15mm OD with about a 1 mm wall thickness. If your bulb
would fit inside this tubing, it would do the trick, especially if
you can get your friendly local neon bender to close the end. If
you can't find a local neon bender, contact me directly. I might be
able to help you.
John
--
John De Armond
Neon John's Custom Neon
johngdDO...@bellsouth.net
http://personal.bellsouth.net/~johngd/
Cleveland, occupied TN
If you really want a deep red, the filters that they use in the theater
lights is what you need. But with everyone going to high intensity red
LEDs, it's a shame you can't find some way to use them.
I think that the reason that nail polish or paint on a light bulb
doesn't work so well ie bacause of the heat that the light bulb puts out
eventually bakes the paint. Ss if you put the paint or nail polish on
the lamp cover, then it souldn't get so hot. So what you need to find
is a couple light fixture covers at the junk yard.
> --
> Clear skies,
>
> Michael Covington
> Author, Astrophotography for the Amateur
> http://www.CovingtonInnovations.com/astro <><
--
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My email address is whitelisted. *All* email sent to it
goes directly to the trash unless I put your email address
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Don't be ripped off by the big book dealers. Go to the URL
that will give you a choice and save you money(up to half).
http://www.everybookstore.com You'll be glad you did!
Those two bulbs burn very, very hot. As another poster mentioned,
a red glass filter would be good.
Why not use high brightness leds?
As an occasional amateur astronomer myself, I made up lamps from jumbo
red LEDs that are fine, and you can do the same for your vehicle. But if
you can't do that (or it ins't practical), go get some red theatrical gel
and put three or four pieces inside the dome light housing.
I have found that a few thicknesses of almost any red plastic sheeting
will do in a pinch. But LEDs are really the best solution.
Surely there are a few guys in your group that can solder and know a
little electronics. With custom clock drive systems and CCD imaging, I
would imagine that you know somebody who could put red LEDs together for you
to run on 13.8 volts from your vehicle. 9 of the jumbo red LEDs in series
and a single current limiting resistor would be all you would need.
Cheers!
Chip Shults
SPAM free Email - aic...@gdi.udu.net but remove the .baryon
> The bulbs for which I need red equivalents are type 211-2 (looks a lot like
> an old-style fuse, contacts on the end) and 563 (unusual arch-like contacts
> on both ends).
> Any ideas?
Hi, Michael!
I've just ordered some transparent red vinyl-based paint (should be in
early next week), but I'm not not confident it would stand up to the high
temperatures directly on the light bulb. It is rated for outdoor use. It
would coat the inside of a acrylic or polycarbonate lens, however (this
may be more permanent than you would like).
Other than that, the Rosco Colorine sounds like an excellent suggestion,
provided the surface temperature on the "fuse" style lamp isn't too high.
Rosco warns against using it on ordinary 100W bulbs. It's about $15 (US) a
can.
Best regards,
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good luck
nate
PS - good advice about the candy apple paint. I think Testors used to
sell candy apple red in little tiny spray cans for use in model cars.
Dunno if it will last on bulbs though. Just in case you can't use gels
for whatever reason.
Not available to fit the sockets; I'd have to modify them. And it may come
to that. There are ready-made LED equivalents for some automotive bulbs but
not these.
What it may come down to is the quality of the red bulbs available in auto
parts stores. The ones I have now are from American Auto Accessories and
claim to be made of "color impregnated glass" but look like color-coated
glass to me. The red is not uniform -- they emit a bit of white on the end.
Also, they claim to be size 211-2 but are actually something shorter (though
they fit a 211-2 socket).
Can someone recommend better red bulbs in this size?
Thanks! Rosco Colorine Bulb Dip. Found it at
http://www.homemole.com/cgi-bin/StudioDepot.storefront.
I may try some, or I may rig something with LEDs... not quite sure yet.
Actually I do my own electronics... if it comes to modifying the lamp
socket, I can easily do that. I'm experimenting with seeing if I can make a
widget that plugs in place of the bulb and consists of LEDs.
Nine jumbo red LEDs in series? Doesn't that add up to 16.2 volts?
Not so easy.
(1) The bulbs are cylindrical. Wrapping them in red plastic would leave the
ends exposed.
(2) The light covers are curved and not easy to apply plastic to.
That's why I didn't use Rubylith (although I have some). I guess I was
hoping the local auto parts store would provide red bulbs that could be used
as-is... and when I got home with them I found them a bit pale and not
entirely red at the ends... hence the original question.
Thanks to all!
John
->I know this is an odd pair of newsgroups, but... are there paints available
->that can be applied to a miniature incandescent bulb to color it red?
Away back in the stone ages, with radios that glowed in the dark, we had the
same problem with pilot lights that needed to be colored a specific color to
match the faceplate. General Cement made a kit of six or eight paint colors
specifically intended to color small light bulbs. You could get any "depth" of
color you wanted by dipping the bulb into the solution, letting it dry, putting
on a second coat, and so on.
Your friendly local electronics distributor that handles GC (NOT the Shack)
ought to be able to look up GC Electronics in their catalog base and tell you
whether or not this kit still exists.
Jim
They are legal to have on while driving as they do not disturb your eyes
or night vision.
I service a fleet of night delivery trucks and lots use these.
Maybe just pick up a couple of them and wire them in with a toggle.
They are cheap and easy.
Just a thought,
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail
88 Cherokee 235 AT's
Build and Canadian Off Road Trips Photos:
(Updated 03/20/01 with March '01 Winter Run)
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumList?u=1161190
That is what I was dimly remembering... but I can't find a sign of it today.
GC (General Cement) does not even have a web page, although they still make
quite a few products (including "service cement," that indispensable
material).
Ah well... I bought some jumbo LEDs and will hard-wire them in place.
> Cheers!
> Chip Shults
Yeah, but what current are you using? The 1.2 volts sounds suspicious
to me, just about every red LED I've measured has been above 1.5 V. The
last batch of 25 I checked were all about 1.8 to 1.9 V. at about 18 mA.
Like you said, it's dependent on the chip process. I thought all modern
bright LEDs were InGaAsP or some rather sophisticated moniker, and only
the older, dimmer LEDs were GaAs. I remember that the older processes
were lower voltage, about 1.6, and IR LEDs were even lower, maybe 1.2.
Of course it all depends on what the current is.
And obviously it depends on what you're using to measure with. I used a
two transistor constant current source to prevent the LED's voltage drop
from influencing the current.
"Michael A. Covington" a écrit :