Short in distributor cap? HELP!
mark ryan miller
replace my distributor cap and rotor at the same time. Since
then I haven't gotten the engine to start. I've been looking at
the car for days now. The rotor on the distributor is turning when
I try to start the engine, but the spark plugs don't fire and the
engine doesn't start. I also had to recharge my battery after
it was drained. Today I tried starting the engine about 7-8 times and
the battery was already drained. Could there be a short? What
am I doing wrong, besides working on my car myself?? :-(
Please help. I'm getting no where and don't know what to do.
Would it help if I got myself a voltmeter and checked the current
on all the spark plug wires, etc??
--Mark Miller
Melissa G. Kepner
>
>I had to replace my spark plug wires recently and so decided to
>replace my distributor cap and rotor at the same time. Since
>then I haven't gotten the engine to start. I've been looking at
>the car for days now. The rotor on the distributor is turning when
>I try to start the engine, but the spark plugs don't fire and the
>engine doesn't start. I also had to recharge my battery after
>it was drained. Today I tried starting the engine about 7-8 times and
>the battery was already drained. Could there be a short? What
>am I doing wrong, besides working on my car myself?? :-(
Sorry, no offense intended, but if you removed the rotor did you get it
snapped back down in the correct rotational orientation? (It's keyed)
Did you put your new wires on in the same location that the old ones came off?
I asssume you didn't remove the dist. so the timing didn't change.
Jim Adney
--
---------------------------------------------------------
Melissa Kepner Jim Adney
mgke...@facstaff.wisc.edu jra...@njackn.com
Laura Kepner-Adney
Madison, Wisconsin
---------------------------------------------------------
Vartan Narinian
>
>Did you put your new wires on in the same location that the old ones came off?
That's irrelevant. The guy's saying there's no spark.
--
Vartan
Bradley J. Falch
Try replacing the condenser. If that goes bad, you'll get no spark.
However, if it was running before you replaced the spark plug wires, this
may not be the problem, but you may want to try it anyway; the condenser
is less than $8.00. I have had them go out on me while I was driving.
The engine just quits.....
Brad
pudge
engine for more than 20 seconds then give it5 min to cool down or u will be
buying a starter too.a dead batt should be charged 8-10 hours on a6-10 amp
charger to fully charge.u
didn't say what kind of car???
M.D.COLEMAN
>I had to replace my spark plug wires recently and so decided to
>replace my distributor cap and rotor at the same time. Since
>then I haven't gotten the engine to start. I've been looking at
>the car for days now. The rotor on the distributor is turning when
>I try to start the engine, but the spark plugs don't fire and the
>engine doesn't start. I also had to recharge my battery after
>it was drained. Today I tried starting the engine about 7-8 times and
>the battery was already drained. Could there be a short? What
>am I doing wrong, besides working on my car myself?? :-(
>Please help. I'm getting no where and don't know what to do.
>Would it help if I got myself a voltmeter and checked the current
>on all the spark plug wires, etc??
>--Mark Miller
Refit your old dizzie cap and then try it. If that does not work refit your
old rotor arm.
Possibilities:a) not pushed home rotor arm far enough,
b) disturbed dizzie internal wiring
c) check carbon electrode in roof of dizzie, is it bent or has it falledn
out and the spring been lost.
d) new rotor arm is knackered
e) its the wrong cap which fits the car but the electrode does not reach the
rotor contact.
If there is no spark at the plug leads, check if there is any HT spark by
pulling the lead from the coil to the distributer away from the
distributor and holding the lead against the exhaust manifold or something
on the motor-USE THICK RUBBER GLOVES and do it well away from the GAS LINES.
If you get a big fat spark, then your electrics are OK but the cap is
cracked or shagged in some way and the rotor also could be at fault.
Try to get back to where you started. Also, never overlook the obvious-you
may have accidenttally disconnected the low tension leads to the dizzie or
something like that. We have all been there-but it will be something so
simple you will kick yourself.
Good luck
MDC
MarkRyanM
the wires... I know I know, mark everything.... :-(
On my 1981 Volkswagen Jetta (fuel injection), I've got a Bosch ignition
coil that looks something like this....
___ ___
|
| |
|
|___ ___
1 15
On the side marked 1, there is a connector with a green and a red wire.
The connector is not keyed, it can fit onto the 1 terminal either way.
The green wire goes up to a box above the engine, near the windshield (the
fuse box??). The red wire goes down into the engine.. I can't trace it.
On the side marked 15 there are two wires both black (grounds?). There is
one going with the red wire and one with the green. Does it matter which
terminals these connect to?? There are three terminals on the 15 side and
two (ground?) wires.
Can anyone help me figure out what the wiring should be???
--Mark
DAVID RAND
writes:
replace a dist cap, rotor @ wires with out f#*king up maybe he should
just take to a Technican.
George B
mi...@kimbark.uchicago.edu (mark ryan miller) wrote:
>I had to replace my spark plug wires recently and so decided to
>replace my distributor cap and rotor at the same time. Since
>then I haven't gotten the engine to start.
You did not say what type of car you have but here are a few things to look
for: GM -- Did you plug the hot(red) wire into the tach connection instead of
the + connection? They are right next to each other in the cap and easy to get
wrong (especially if there is no tach in your car. You have two connections
and one wire...which one was it.....?) Also if an HEI cap...did you remember
the coil ground terminal (that metal strap the goes on one of the screws
holding the coil into the cap)
Ford: An early/mid '80's 351 with California Emissions...There are two sets of
numbers on the cap which do I use....and THEY are different than the numbers
on the intake manifold! Those things used a skip-two type of system. Find #1
terminal post...that is really #1. then skip-two and the third one is the
SECOND in the firing order...then skip-two and the third is the
third...skip-two etc......very confusing...what is the proper order...only
your camshaft knows for sure.
Chrysler 4 cyl (2.2 style) I HOPE you got those funny little plug wire ends
ALL THE WAY down into the cap! On a older V8...did you knock a wire loose from
the ballast resistor or oil pressure switch?
What type of ignition system are we talking about here?
Did you put the old cap and rotor back in to rule the new parts out as the
cause of the problem?
Good Luck
George Bonser
gr...@cris.com
John Kolego
writes:
>
>mgke...@facstaff.wisc.edu (Melissa G. Kepner) writes:
>>
>>Did you put your new wires on in the same location that the old ones
came off?
>
>That's irrelevant. The guy's saying there's no spark.
>
>--
>Vartan
I too, think that the wires are crossed. He's probably sparking out of
rotation and killing the battery as a result. But, yes he should at
least pull a lead and check for spark while cranking the engine.
Has any one suggested a check of his points yet? Assuming the he has
points.
Targa
George B
dav...@ix.netcom.com (DAVID RAND) wrote:
>In <3t8ldi$1...@frigate.doc.ic.ac.uk> v...@ic.ac.uk (Vartan Narinian)
>writes:
>>
>>mgke...@facstaff.wisc.edu (Melissa G. Kepner) writes:
>>>
>>>Did you put your new wires on in the same location that the old ones
>came off?
>>
>>That's irrelevant. The guy's saying there's no spark.
>>
>>--
>>Vartan
>replace a dist cap, rotor @ wires with out f#*king up maybe he should
>just take to a Technican.
Notwithstanding my post of yesterday, I supect that he cracked the rotor when
he put it back on and the spark is junpung to the distributor shaft. A good
test is this... pull the coil wire out of the distributor. Do you have spark
there? If yes then the ignition system is operating normally up to the
distributor. If you get NO spark from ANY of the plug wires then the spark HAS
to be going SOMEWHERE. It finds the path of least resistance. I have seen some
very poor quality parts from such sources as Pep Boys, Auto Zone, etc. I am
partial to Standard, Echlin (NAPA), AC, and Motorcraft ignition components (in
that order..sorry I forgot Mopar...they are good too). Try replacing the rotor
with a good one and see if that works...I am still curious to find out if
putting the original parts back on restored the vehicle to running condition.
George Bonser
gr...@cris.com
Tim Pepitone
: I had to replace my spark plug wires recently and so decided to
: replace my distributor cap and rotor at the same time. Since
: engine doesn't start. I also had to recharge my battery after
: it was drained. Today I tried starting the engine about 7-8 times and
: the battery was already drained. Could there be a short? What
: am I doing wrong, besides working on my car myself?? :-(
: Please help. I'm getting no where and don't know what to do.
: Would it help if I got myself a voltmeter and checked the current
: on all the spark plug wires, etc??
: --Mark Miller
Mark,
Check to make sure that you did not lose the carbon plunger
in the center of the cap. Did that once myself and went crazy for a
couple of hours.
--
---
Timothy Pepitone - Technical Support, Spectra.Net
t...@spectra.net
MarkRyanM
1. Noticed now that the alternator light is staying on when I turn the key
in
the ignition. Does mean I've ruined the alternator??
2. Attached voltmeter to postive terminal of battery, negative lead to
terminal 15 of ignition coil, ignition coil wire to dist cap is grounded:
pre-ignition reads 11.5 volts
when I try to start voltage reads 1.75 volts
3. Attached voltmeter to ignition coil wire leading to dist cap, and
second
terminal to ground. When I try the ignition voltage jumps to 8 volts,
then
goes back to about 2 volts. With radio on, etc voltage stays at about 10
volts.
4. I had been hearing a "click" when I tried starting the car. After
putting
back the original dist cap and rotor I no longer hear this. What does
that
mean??
5. Attached voltmeter to starter solenoid. One terminal to battery
terminal
of solenoid, other to terminal 50 (supposed to go to ignition switch).
at ignition voltage is about .6 V
6. Checked resistance on ignition coil. Between terminals 1 and 15 (Bosch
coil), + and - terminals ??, primary resistance is .4 ohms
Secondary resistance (lead to dist cap and terminal 1) is 6000 ohms.
Is it possible to mess up the alternator or the starter if I turn the
ignition with some wires in the wrong places?? Have I broken something or
just have wires crossed??
I'm grateful for any help.
--Mark
MarkRyanM
distributor cap on my '81 VW Jetta. I'll work on my car again today.
Maybe I'll get it working?! I went out yesterday and bought a combo
voltmeter/ammeter/dwell meter and a timing light. By the time I get done
with this I will do a tune up on my engine. That's assuming I ever get it
to start again!! :-)
--Mark
Danny Fitzsimon
Mi> I had to replace my spark plug wires recently and so decided to
Mi> replace my distributor cap and rotor at the same time. Since
Mi> then I haven't gotten the engine to start. I've been looking at
Mi> the car for days now. The rotor on the distributor is turning when
Mi> I try to start the engine, but the spark plugs don't fire and the
Mi> engine doesn't start. I also had to recharge my battery after
Mi> it was drained. Today I tried starting the engine about 7-8 times and
Mi> the battery was already drained. Could there be a short? What
Mi> am I doing wrong, besides working on my car myself?? :-(
Mi> Please help. I'm getting no where and don't know what to do.
Mi> Would it help if I got myself a voltmeter and checked the current
Mi> on all the spark plug wires, etc??
Mi> --Mark Miller
What car, engine?
Danny
___ Blue Wave/QWK v2.12
_ _ --------------------------------------------------------------
|_|_| PC-Ohio PCBoard OLS pcohio.com HST 16.8: 216-381-3320
|_|_| The Best BBS in America Cleveland, OH V34 28.8: 216-691-3030
--------------------------------------------------------------
George B
mark...@aol.com (MarkRyanM) wrote:
>Here are the results of some testing I did today.
>
>1. Noticed now that the alternator light is staying on when I turn the key
>in
>the ignition. Does mean I've ruined the alternator??
No, with the key on and the engine not running the alternator lamp is SUPPOSED
to light. After all, the belt is not turning and the alternator is not
providing output, right?
>
>2. Attached voltmeter to postive terminal of battery, negative lead to
>terminal 15 of ignition coil, ignition coil wire to dist cap is grounded:
> pre-ignition reads 11.5 volts
> when I try to start voltage reads 1.75 volts
Ok, you have 1.75v drop between the the battery and the terminal you are
measuring...in other words, if you measured to the NEGATIVE terminal you would
have 0 volts before cranking and battery-1.75 while cranking...not a big cause
for concern.
>3. Attached voltmeter to ignition coil wire leading to dist cap, and
>second
>terminal to ground. When I try the ignition voltage jumps to 8 volts,
>then
>goes back to about 2 volts. With radio on, etc voltage stays at about 10
>volts.
WOW! NEVER CONNECT YOUR VOLTMETER TO THE COIL WIRE!!! THAT IS A GOOD WAY TO
FRY A METER! Or a FINGER!
I really do not need to read any more. You can get yourself hurt if you poke
around in areas with high voltage (a coil puts out more than 10,000 volts
and SOME put out more than 50,000). It is obvoius that you are a very RAW
beginner in this stuff and need to do some basic reading on fundamentals
before proceding further. This is probably not the best type of system to
learn on. (or it is the best depending on how you look at it). Get a book
before proceding further is my best advice.
George Bonser
gr...@cris.com
Melissa G. Kepner
>
>Here are the results of some testing I did today.
>
>1. Noticed now that the alternator light is staying on when I turn the key
>in
>the ignition. Does mean I've ruined the alternator??
No this is normal.
>2. Attached voltmeter to postive terminal of battery, negative lead to
>terminal 15 of ignition coil, ignition coil wire to dist cap is grounded:
> pre-ignition reads 11.5 volts
> when I try to start voltage reads 1.75 volts
Not the usual measurement, but probably normal.
>3. Attached voltmeter to ignition coil wire leading to dist cap, and
>second
>terminal to ground. When I try the ignition voltage jumps to 8 volts,
>then
>goes back to about 2 volts. With radio on, etc voltage stays at about 10
>volts.
The most likely result of taking this measurement is the destruction of your
meter. I have no idea if this is what you should expect to measure. Hope
your meter survived.
>4. I had been hearing a "click" when I tried starting the car. After
>putting
>back the original dist cap and rotor I no longer hear this. What does
>that
>mean??
Sorry, don't know.
>5. Attached voltmeter to starter solenoid. One terminal to battery
>terminal
>of solenoid, other to terminal 50 (supposed to go to ignition switch).
> at ignition voltage is about .6 V
Not the usual place to measure, but probably ok.
>6. Checked resistance on ignition coil. Between terminals 1 and 15 (Bosch
>coil), + and - terminals ??, primary resistance is .4 ohms
> Secondary resistance (lead to dist cap and terminal 1) is 6000 ohms.
Probably fine.
>Is it possible to mess up the alternator or the starter if I turn the
>ignition with some wires in the wrong places??
I doubt that is your problem.
Have I broken something or
>just have wires crossed??
What you really need is someone to look over your shoulder who knows just a
little bit about ignition. The view from here is just not quite good enough.
Go look for a friend to help you.
MarkRyanM
poke
>around in areas with high voltage (a coil puts out more than 10,000 volts
>and SOME put out more than 50,000). It is obvoius that you are a very RAW
>beginner in this stuff and need to do some basic reading on fundamentals
>before proceding further. This is probably not the best type of system to
>learn on. (or it is the best depending on how you look at it). Get a
book
>before proceding further is my best advice.
Well, I've been reading up for the last week or so. That's how I learn
about anything new. Now I know that the coil wire puts out 10,000+ volts.
(Maybe that's why my hair keeps standing up??) :-)
Seriously though, I don't think the coil wire is putting out the voltage
that it should. I think the current is going to the ground. Perhaps the
condenser in the distributor is open??
Yes, I am a raw beginner, but I try to be very careful. If I *had* blown
up my voltmeter I would have replaced it. But then if I was getting that
much voltage out of it, I probably wouldn't be having this problem. BTW,
if I *am* such a beginner, isn't it better to give me some advice rather
than leaving me to my own devices??
Thanks for your help.
--Mark
George B
>if I *am* such a beginner, isn't it better to give me some advice rather
>than leaving me to my own devices??
Mark,
I am just not sure that USENET (the newsgroups) is the proper forum to conduct
training classes. Or even email for that matter since my arms are not long
enough nor my eyesight good enough to really be of assistance in this case. I
try to throw in my two cents worth 'cause I think folks CAN properly maintain
their own vehicles if given the proper guidance and because there are folks
out there that are taking advantage of them. There are also times when a pro
SHOULD get involved because someone could break their car or get hurt without
the proper tools and information or worse spend a months income replacing GOOD
parts. I am doing this as sort of a community service, we are sort of
neighbors in a way, we can come up here and help each other out.
BUT I do not think this is a classroom in the conventional sense. At this
point you need a mentor to come over to your place and guide you through the
troubleshooting of this vehicle. Might I suggest enrolling in a local
community college automotive course and offering your car as a class project?
Shoot, you might even put an ad in the paper and a retired mechanic might get
a kick out of helping you for free if you worded it right. Just say that you
are trying to learn and are looking for a retired mechanic that might want to
help a greehorn learn the fundamentals. Most folks LOVE to teach someone that
WANTS to learn :) I just do not think that this is the proper forum.
George Bonser
gr...@cris.com
Alexey Danilkovich
(MarkRyanM) wrote:
> Seriously though, I don't think the coil wire is putting out the voltage
> that it should. I think the current is going to the ground. Perhaps the
> condenser in the distributor is open??
As you was able to mesure output from coil as 8 V instead of 10,000 V but if
you're right.
Now lets make suggestion: the only sourse of altered power to feed the coil is
braker with perfectly tuned gap and timing period to get prime crank as
semi-altered voltage to use. If you set wrong parameters for braker then
it would be no gap, no crank, no power to prime coil, no ignating one out
from secondary...
But what is unclear from watching the mess in this thread if starter does
revolve the engine anyway during start performing or what is that suppose
to mean: "..don't hear a click?".
Kenneth R. Bogucki
: replace my distributor cap and rotor at the same time. Since
: then I haven't gotten the engine to start. I've been looking at
: the car for days now. The rotor on the distributor is turning when
: I try to start the engine, but the spark plugs don't fire and the
: engine doesn't start. I also had to recharge my battery after
: it was drained. Today I tried starting the engine about 7-8 times and
: the battery was already drained. Could there be a short? What
: am I doing wrong, besides working on my car myself?? :-(
: --Mark Miller
If the car worked before you changed the wires etc, then obviously the
problem lies with something you have changed or done in the last several
days..perhaps something you haven't done.
1. check the spark plug wires, make sure they are all properly seated
and making contact with the plug. The boot on some replacement wires is
longer than it should be, as a result, when you push the wire on the plug
sometime it feels as if the connecotr has seated when it fact the
connector inside the boot is not properly attached to the plug. Check the
boot length of the old plug wires with the new amd how far up the boot is
the connector. Make sure the plug wire connector is seated on the plug.
The same holds true for the connections to the distributor. Make sure
the coil wire is properly seated.
2. If you distr. has points and condenser, these should be automatically
replaced each time you change wires or the like, if you distr. is
pointless, check for moisture in the cap and in the distr itself.
As far as the 10k voltage, truth is unless you standing in a puddle of
water the voltage will give you a jolt, but little else. There's an old
addage in the electric repair field, "it's not the voltage that will kill
you, its the amperage.<sp>". Ten volts as 50 amps will kill you, 10k
volts at 1 amp will just buzz you. This all takes into account that
you're not standing knee deep in water.
--
Ken Bogucki
k...@netcom.com
76215...@compuserve.com
Jeffrey S. Curtis
} [...]
}As far as the 10k voltage, truth is unless you standing in a puddle of
}water the voltage will give you a jolt, but little else. There's an old
}addage in the electric repair field, "it's not the voltage that will kill
}you, its the amperage.<sp>". Ten volts as 50 amps will kill you, 10k
Depends on your epidermal resistance (how sweaty you are, etc.). Heck,
150mA (0.15 amps) is enough to kill you, if it's applied across the
heart. But your general point is true - the voltage isn't the important
number. Even your typical shuffling-your-feet-across-the-carpet-and-
touching-the-doorknob situations produce kilovolt shocks, and I doubt
anyone has ever been killed by doing so.
Jeff
--
Jeffrey S. Curtis | Internetwork Manager
Argonne National Laboratory | Email: cur...@anl.gov
9700 South Cass Avenue, ECT-221 | Voice: 708/252-1789
Argonne, IL 60439 | Fax: 708/252-9689
George B
U25...@uicvm.uic.edu ( Alexey Danilkovich) wrote:
>In article <3tjlk1$o...@newsbf02.news.aol.com>, mark...@aol.com
>(MarkRyanM) wrote:
>
>As you was able to mesure output from coil as 8 V instead of 10,000 V but if
>you're right.
That 10K volts comes as a very fast spike that meters will not follow. You
need a scope to see it. Plus...if the coil wire is not connected to anything
the spark will jump either inside the coil or inside the meter whichever is
easier.
I too had my doubts as to whether the vehicle was cranking but in his first
post he said the the rotor was turning so I assumed it was.
MarkRyanM
I'm not sure that the starter was turning... in fact I'm getting ready to
buy a new starter motor. I think I may have scragged the old one,
although I'm not sure how. (I did try to jump start my car early on when
I thought it was just a dead battery. I followed the instructions and was
careful not to connect both terminals together, etc.....) I think the
starter is as old as the car (13 years). Do starters usually last this
long?? Plus before I *broke* my car, I was having trouble starting cold
anyway... maybe this was the starter slowly dying, and I helped it along??
I've tested it as recommended in a few books by connecting the two
terminals on the solenoid. How long can/should I run this test. Can I
burn out the starter by hooking up voltage for too long? Could I burn it
out if I've tried starting 6 times in 2-3 minutes??
Also I understand now what you mean about the breakers (points?). I think
that was why I wasn't getting a spark and why my meter is still alive.
The current was probably going into the coil. However, I think my coil is
bad too. I'm getting ready to buy a new one with the starter. The
primary and secondary resistance measurements I'm getting are all wrong.
How can I kill an ignition coil!!!
I've worked on getting the pistons/rotor/etc to Top Dead Center (?). If I
understand the situation, I need to replace my starter, and my coil, make
sure the spark plug wires are in the right place, and also check and/or
replace my points/breakers. I'm going to be real careful before putting
any replacements back in my car. I'm talking to a few people to make sure
I have the electrical connections right before starting again.
What would happen if I didn't set TDC? Would I just get misfires on the
spark plugs? Would I damage the engine??
Thanks for replying. This has been frustrating, but I'm accomplishing my
goal. As I read and correspond with some of you, I'm learning a *lot*
about engines. That's what I wanted to happen. I just didn't want it to
happen so soon!!!
--Mark
MarkRyanM
Psych 4111fa - TA
: I had to replace my spark plug wires recently and so decided to
Mark, assuming you have a VW (of what year?) you might want to check the
wiring plug (should be three wires) that enters the side of your distributor.
I helped a friend correct a demon that manifested itself after he changed his
air filter. Apparently the wire in question was tugged and pulled itself out
of the connector but not out the rubber boot surrounding the connector. In
other words, check the plug very carefully and see if all three wires are
properly seated in the connector. This harness comes from the ignition
control module behind the firewall (again depends on year of VW) and that
one little wire will cause the same symptoms you describe if disconnected.
Hope this helps....Dennis.
jambo...@gmail.com
Scott Dorsey
>ok here's one for you. i drove my truck roughly 35 miles to pick up my chec=
>k. shut the truck off got my check.got back in my truck drove approximately=
> 1/2 a mile to cash it. shut it off to go in the store walked right back ou=
>t got in the truck cranked it was texting my husband (before taking off) to=
> let him know i was fixing to head home. the truck just dies for no reason.=
>it would not crank back up it would just turn over. ran the battery down. g=
>ot a boost still nothing but turn over. pulled the air breather off to make=
> sure it was getting gas.it was getting gas. pulled the #1 spark plug wire =
>off to see if it was fireing. not fireing. replaced the distributor cap rot=
>ary button and pick up coil. still not getting fire. anyone have any sugges=
>tions?
It's a 1989 Ford and the ignition module overheated and failed.
Or else it's a 1972 Chevy and the points burned through.
Or maybe it's something else.
--scott
--
"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."
Amanda Scott
Scott Dorsey
>my truck is a 93 chevy electronic ignition doesn't have points
You mention a distributor so I'm assuming it's a single coil system (which
it might not be). If that's the case, and you've verified there's no spark,
put an analogue meter across the coil and see if there are any pulses being
sent by the ECU to the coil. If not, check to see there is power to the ECU.
The ECU might get power from a main relay or right off the ignition switch,
it depends on what model it is and you won't tell us what model it is. It
may have its own fuse.
If the ECU is getting power and there's no spark, then it's time to look at
the TDC sensor going into the ECU that tells it when to fire. If there is
no signal getting to the ECU to tell it where the crank is, it doesn't know
when to send a spark. (GM calls this a 'distributor reference pulse' on some
models.)
There may also be an engine RPM sensor depending on what model engine it is,
and that can also fail and confuse the ECU.
It would not hurt to go through the OBD-I exercise with the key and see if
the ECU is logging any errors. If you see an error #12 that's a good sign
the TDC sensor is not happy.
Paul in Houston TX
> In article <b6f7b02b-3be2-4e82...@googlegroups.com>,
> Amanda Scott <jambo...@gmail.com> wrote:
>> my truck is a 93 chevy electronic ignition doesn't have points
>
> But no model or engine type?
Scott Dorsey
moving at all when you tried to start the car with the cap off.
Steve W.
> my truck is a 93 chevy electronic ignition doesn't have points
transfer goop before you install it.
--
Steve W.
ejone...@gmail.com
Scott Dorsey
>Help please pulled out BK went through red light CR-V died cranks but no start replaced fuel pump and filter still no start any suggestions
What year car is this?
If you pull a plug, do you get a nice spark on it?
If not and you connect the plug to the coil, do you get a nice spark on it?
Is there good pressure at the fuel rail? If you disconnect the line to the
rail does fuel go spraying out?
Are the injectors coming on? Can you hear them when the engine is turned
over and/or will they light a noid light?
If the noid light does not illuminate and there is no spark at the plug,
it's time to look at the inputs to the computer. If the TDC sensor doesn't
work, the computer won't know to spark or squirt. But what you do at that
point depends a lot on how old it is.