93 Mazda 626 transmission problems
myh...@erols.com
My '93 Mazda 626, 74k, auto transmission, has the following problems:
1) When it tries to upshift and you don't give it more gas (rush hour
traffic where you can't go faster), the engine rumbles and shakes. The
rpm oscillates between two gears. The dealer supposedly "fix" the
transmission under warranty, but the problem still exists. A coworker
has the same problems on his '91 Mazda 626.
2) I just spent $1200 in October for a major tune up and timing belt
change. End of November, the car started to randomly stall at a stop. It
would crank and start but as soon a I shift into drive, it would stall
immediately. I usually have to wait about 20 minutes to 1/2 hour before
it would run. Dealer couldn't duplicate the problem. Two weeks ago, it
finally won't turn over after stalling. They had to replace the
distributor ($620 not including the towing). They also raise the idle
speed which I think only masked the problem. It has stalled twice more
since then and several times, I could feel the engine trying to stall
during idle. Dealer doesn't want to touch the problem any more.
3) Now, there's a loud, high pitch whining sound under the hood when I
accelerate. It also fades in and out when I accelerate. I'm also having
a hard time accelerating. Dealer's said it's from a bearing in the
transmission. There's also a random popping sound you can hear while in
gear, at a stop. They said it's from the torque converter and I need to
replace the transmission. $2400 more from high priced Mazda. The dealer
was helpful and accommodating, but this is getting frustrating.
Has anyone else experienced similar problems? Over 85% of my driving is
on the highway. It's not 5 years old yet. Transmission shouldn't break
like this. My previous Toyotas never had transmission problems.
Thanks.
-------------------==== Posted via Deja News ====-----------------------
http://www.dejanews.com/ Search, Read, Post to Usenet
Robert Morella
myh...@erols.com wrote:
>My '93 Mazda 626, 74k, auto transmission, has the following problems:
>1) When it tries to upshift and you don't give it more gas (rush hour
>traffic where you can't go faster), the engine rumbles and shakes. The
>rpm oscillates between two gears. The dealer supposedly "fix" the
>transmission under warranty, but the problem still exists. A coworker
>has the same problems on his '91 Mazda 626.
maybe a bad speed sensor?? is the transmission 'hunting' between 3rd
and 4th, of is the lockup torque convertor locking/unlocking??
>2) I just spent $1200 in October for a major tune up and timing belt
>change. End of November, the car started to randomly stall at a stop. It
>would crank and start but as soon a I shift into drive, it would stall
>immediately. I usually have to wait about 20 minutes to 1/2 hour before
>it would run. Dealer couldn't duplicate the problem. Two weeks ago, it
>finally won't turn over after stalling. They had to replace the
>distributor ($620 not including the towing). They also raise the idle
>speed which I think only masked the problem. It has stalled twice more
>since then and several times, I could feel the engine trying to stall
>during idle. Dealer doesn't want to touch the problem any more.
Perhaps they screwed up the timing belt repair and mis-timed the
engine by putting timing belt on wrong. This would affect
drivability.
>3) Now, there's a loud, high pitch whining sound under the hood when I
>accelerate. It also fades in and out when I accelerate. I'm also having
>a hard time accelerating. Dealer's said it's from a bearing in the
>transmission. There's also a random popping sound you can hear while in
>gear, at a stop. They said it's from the torque converter and I need to
>replace the transmission. $2400 more from high priced Mazda. The dealer
>was helpful and accommodating, but this is getting frustrating.
find an independent shop and get a second opinion. This could be
related to timing belt job.....could be misinstalled timing belt
tensioner or something like that....
Julian A F Bradbury
myh...@erols.com writes
>2) the car started to randomly stall at a stop. It
>would crank and start but as soon a I shift into drive, it would stall
>immediately. I usually have to wait about 20 minutes to 1/2 hour before
>it would run. Dealer couldn't duplicate the problem.
Dealer is a ************ idiot.
They know full damn well A) it's the IGNITOR and B) even *FORD* TSB'd
the 93/94 Probe with V6 engines for THAT problem. It is a crap design
from Mitsubishi.
The classic symptoms which a cabbage of a tech could recognise as ALL
will do it is it will cut-out & tacho drops to zero, the car will coast
to a stop. You have to wait before it restarts with no spark, until the
power transistor thermal resets. Eventually such failures become more
and more often.
The fix?
You ring a Ford dealer and ask for the Ignitor part (not *entire*
distributor, that's Mazda *intentionally* screwing owners). It is
cheapest from Ford in Canada... about 50$US, no kidding.
So for 50$US you get a new ignitor, which has all new screws needed
and the two connectors, new capacitor, the lot. Part numbers & fitting
are on my site http://www.ergonite.demon.co.uk/probemx/probefaq.htm
There are three probs with 93/94
- Rear calliper - redesigned version or rebuilt for 80$US
- Carbon knock - warranty, techron or decarbon service, or water
injection (ERLs system works great & boosts power)
- Ignitor module - 50$/60ukp fix. Fitting like wiring a plug.
All the above fixed by 95 models (5th Jan 95 actually).
PLUS one common to all. Mazda and auto gearboxes are a bad mix.
If ever anyone buys one, put synth in it and change it + filter
3x as often as recommended, then you'll get good life. Neglect and
they will die at 60k-90k requiring a rebuild, MTXs last long and
the V6 was made for MTX not ATX.
> Two weeks ago, it
>finally won't turn over after stalling. They had to replace the
>distributor ($620 not including the towing).
I'd scream at Mazda US over that one. Even Roebuck sell the ignitor
now cheaper (but probably the only part they can't get anything like
as cheap as the Mazda units available from Canadian Ford Dealers).
Find another dealer. File a complaint with the Better Business
Bureau. Remember any parts are cheapest from Roebuck Mazda,
roebuc...@roebuckmazda.com
Mazda can't build an ATX transmission that works/lasts.
Ok, it's not a Ford AXOD but even so do they really have to compete!
If you get a new ATX tranny (try Roebuck Mazda re pricing, then
recyclers if they have a *low* mileage rear-ended) put synth in it
and change it and the filter regularly. It does help life on ATXs.
The web site lists the probe/mx6/626 mailing list, many ATX owners
there who should be able to help.
Oh, your other problems:
- You have stalling at idle?
- Check for vacuum leaks (5metres of hoses under there, 24 lines IIRC)
and the one at the back of the airbox
- Are you on original ignition leads at 50k miles/4yrs?
Change them now - they like the miata/mx6/probe fail. They are 63$US
for NGK/BOSCH from NOPI in Atlanta, Roebucks price may be good too.
- Fuel filters are due to be replaced every 24k miles, in the US this is
perhaps more important than elsewhere (US fuel filter is like an oil
drum compared to the european one... as my mechanic found ;)
- Any Engine codes?
Open Diagnostic Connector by battery and connect TEN to GND, turn ECU
to ON (don't start engine) and count short/long pulses. Low codes
first. Short pulse = a 1, Long pulse a 10. Will repeat all codes. You
will need a pen and paper going - - - ---- etc.
You may have a code 12 which is TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) but
the tranny is first on the list
- Any ATX ECU codes?
Or basically is it too late for that.
First:
- Replace ignition leads now (doesn't help O2-sensors or ignitor etc)
- Check engine ECU codes - if a code 12, get a new TPS from Roebuck
(just give VIN, 2.5, 626 & year) and have someone fit it - method at
my site - any mechanic can do it once given the tech specs
- Go after Mazda US & Dealer for not selling you just the ignitor, the
part number is on my page. Quote how much it is from Ford too and that
you've been screwed for 5x the components you need at 10x the cost.
Then:
- You need to find another Mazda Dealer
- ONLY go to them after doing the above, you don't want dud leads or
a dud TPS or such like confusing them or wasting time/$s. I can tell
you know that the TPS is *critical* for many things on the manual.
- TPS does VRIS solenoid settings, fuel mapping, timing, anti-buck
on deceleration, masses of things
- On the Automatic you can see how a problem here is going to make
a tech chase his tail fault-finding the ATX unit.
The ATX gearbox diagnosis is Vol1 of the Mazda 626 manual, it's about
200 pages and whilst complex a good tech can properly identify things.
You NEED someone who knows & has personally rebuilt that gearbox, who
isn't a "replace Field Replaceable Unit ... 1x ATX" guy.
The Ignitor rip-off is like the US BMW 1.8-16v-DOHC Profile Gasket con
defect that some got ripped off to, but way way worse when down the
street and an email + C/C later you get a part for 10x less!!
--
Julian AF Bradbury
Chuck Biggs
My wife's Taurus's torque converter is constantly locked up even at low
speeds causing pretty rough shifts, especially from park to drive. Any
suggestions where to look for a solution?
Thanks in advance.
--
Chuck Biggs
mailto:bi...@flash.net
Louis Delgado
For condition "Rough initial engagement in either forward or reverse"
the manaul suggests:
- impoper fluid level
- high engine idle
- automatic choke on (warm termperature)
- looseness in half shafts, CV joints, or engine mounts (I replaced my
engine mounts already)
- sticky or dirty valve body
Good luck!
On Sun, 11 Jan 1998 09:01:24 -0600, Chuck Biggs <bi...@flash.net>
wrote:
...
Louis
myh...@erols.com
In article <699s1a$s...@camel12.mindspring.com>,
nopam@rmorella@mindspring.com wrote:
>
> maybe a bad speed sensor?? is the transmission 'hunting' between 3rd
> and 4th, of is the lockup torque convertor locking/unlocking??
>
I've seen it at all speeds. It's very noticeably and easily reproducible
at about 25 - 30 mph. I guess it would be hunting between 2nd and 3rd.
> Perhaps they screwed up the timing belt repair and mis-timed the
> engine by putting timing belt on wrong. This would affect
> drivability.
>
I originally thought of the timing belt also. But the car ran without
any transmission problems for over 2 1/2 months. The engine stalling
only started 8 weeks after the timing belt was replaced. In that past
couple of days, the acceleration has become increasingly difficult. I
think the root is with the transmission.
Thanks for the info.
myh...@erols.com
In article <wxZ5XDAs...@ergonite.demon.co.uk>,
Julian A F Bradbury <jul...@ergonite.demon.co.uk> wrote:
>
>
> Dealer is a ************ idiot.
> They know full damn well A) it's the IGNITOR and B) even *FORD* TSB'd
> the 93/94 Probe with V6 engines for THAT problem. It is a crap design
> from Mitsubishi.
>
> The classic symptoms which a cabbage of a tech could recognise as ALL
> will do it is it will cut-out & tacho drops to zero, the car will coast
> to a stop. You have to wait before it restarts with no spark, until the
> power transistor thermal resets. Eventually such failures become more
> and more often.
>
> The fix?
> You ring a Ford dealer and ask for the Ignitor part (not *entire*
> distributor, that's Mazda *intentionally* screwing owners). It is
> cheapest from Ford in Canada... about 50$US, no kidding.
>
> So for 50$US you get a new ignitor, which has all new screws needed
> and the two connectors, new capacitor, the lot. Part numbers & fitting
> are on my site http://www.ergonite.demon.co.uk/probemx/probefaq.htm
>
> There are three probs with 93/94
> - Rear calliper - redesigned version or rebuilt for 80$US
> - Carbon knock - warranty, techron or decarbon service, or water
> injection (ERLs system works great & boosts power)
> - Ignitor module - 50$/60ukp fix. Fitting like wiring a plug.
>
> All the above fixed by 95 models (5th Jan 95 actually).
>
Finally, some one who recognizes the symptoms and the fix. I'm going to
another dealer to have the transmission fixed. Then I'll have the
ignitor checked. I've written a letter to Mazda's Customer Satisfaction
Director in Irvine, CA. It'll be interesting to see when, and how they
respond. Sounds like this problem existed for a couple of years and they
had a fix for it.
>
> Oh, your other problems:
> - You have stalling at idle?
> - Check for vacuum leaks (5metres of hoses under there, 24 lines IIRC)
> and the one at the back of the airbox
> - Are you on original ignition leads at 50k miles/4yrs?
> Change them now - they like the miata/mx6/probe fail. They are 63$US
> for NGK/BOSCH from NOPI in Atlanta, Roebucks price may be good too.
> - Fuel filters are due to be replaced every 24k miles, in the US this is
> perhaps more important than elsewhere (US fuel filter is like an oil
> drum compared to the european one... as my mechanic found ;)
> - Any Engine codes?
> Open Diagnostic Connector by battery and connect TEN to GND, turn ECU
> to ON (don't start engine) and count short/long pulses. Low codes
> first. Short pulse = a 1, Long pulse a 10. Will repeat all codes. You
> will need a pen and paper going - - - ---- etc.
> You may have a code 12 which is TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) but
> the tranny is first on the list
> - Any ATX ECU codes?
> Or basically is it too late for that.
The ignition leads and fuel filters were replaced in October with the
major tune up. As for the engine codes, they couldn't find any error
codes since the car wasn't stalled when they had it. Their original
diagnosis was either the distributor or the BAC (whatever a BAC is - the
ticket writer couldn't tell me. I guess he wasn't the "mechanic".).
Both were very expensive.
Thanks for the info and advise.
Julian A F Bradbury
myh...@erols.com writes
>Their original
>diagnosis was either the distributor or the BAC (whatever a BAC is - the
>ticket writer couldn't tell me. I guess he wasn't the "mechanic".).
>Both were very expensive.
If the distributor or ignitor has not been replaced, and this is a 93/94
2.5 then order a new ignitor from the Canadian Ford Dealer listed on my
site, the part numbers are there. It's the only cheap source, Ford US
dealers may be able to get them but are often backordered (surprise!).
The ignitor MAY test ok, it's an in-use failure mode (the semiconductor
power transistor is packing up probably due to over-temperature, hence
the delay for stereotypical semiconductor thermal reset; but this is
damaging each time so it occurs more and more often probably as the
base materials in the transistor break down, go to the pub etc).
Any parts for the xmission rebuild will be significantly cheaper from
Roebuck Mazda, which could really save quite a lot on a rebuild. Get
a list of parts needed, order them at perhaps 25-40% below list.
When rebuilt, but a synthetic ATF in it, change it often.
--
Julian AF Bradbury
Dean Pereira
myh...@erols.com wrote in message <884659991...@dejanews.com>...
>In article <699s1a$s...@camel12.mindspring.com>,
> nopam@rmorella@mindspring.com wrote:
>
>>
>> maybe a bad speed sensor?? is the transmission 'hunting' between 3rd
>> and 4th, of is the lockup torque convertor locking/unlocking??
>>
>
>I've seen it at all speeds. It's very noticeably and easily reproducible
>at about 25 - 30 mph. I guess it would be hunting between 2nd and 3rd.
>
>
>> Perhaps they screwed up the timing belt repair and mis-timed the
>> engine by putting timing belt on wrong. This would affect
>> drivability.
>>
>
>I originally thought of the timing belt also. But the car ran without
>any transmission problems for over 2 1/2 months. The engine stalling
>only started 8 weeks after the timing belt was replaced. In that past
>couple of days, the acceleration has become increasingly difficult. I
>think the root is with the transmission.
>
>Thanks for the info.
>
>-------------------==== Posted via Deja News ====-----------------------
> http://www.dejanews.com/ Search, Read, Post to Usenet
Hello. I have a '93 MX6 and have the exact same problems with my tranny. I
brought it in to the dealer a few times but they always told me that the
computer says it is fine. But I know it is something further. When I am
climbing a bridge for instance, my tranny will upshift into 4th at around
25mph and the rpm will shoot down to ~1100 rpm and I will have to floor it
to downshift into at least 3rd gear. I am sick and tired of this because I
feel I am not getting the power the car should be delivering,
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Dean.
Julian A F Bradbury
Dean Pereira <dpe...@po-box.mcgill.ca> writes
>Hello. I have a '93 MX6 and have the exact same problems with my tranny.
>25mph and the rpm will shoot down to ~1100 rpm and I will have to floor it
>to downshift into at least 3rd gear.
The shop manual diagnostics (Mazda manual Volume 1, about 28ukp or
35$US from Roebuck Mazda, roebuc...@roebuckmazda.com) has about
280 complex detailed pages relating to the ATX.
- Find another dealer.
- Get the manual so you can at least go through some user tests.
- Check your engine codes (connect TEN to GND in diagnostic box,
don't short any others, and turn ignition to ON but not start.
Car will flash out the codes, long flash for 10s, short for 1s.
Write them down as ---- -- -- etc.
If you see something like a code 12, fix that first (TPS).
- If you are on original ignition leads after 4yrs, place them in
the bin and ring NOPI in Atlanta and buy NGK/Bosch ones for 63$US.
Like the miata, the ignition leads only last 4-5yrs (the wells are
about a foot deep and hot etc. Magnecor last longer supposedly but
are about 2x the price, I'd go cheap and put $s into synth oil and
doing my own oil changes regularly.
Change the ATX fluid & filter, and use a good synth in that gearbox.
--
Julian AF Bradbury