Superglue oil leak fix
tyl...@gmail.com
to fix an oil leak on an airplane. (The trick was to attach a shop vac
to a breather so the glue is sucked into the crack.) The previous owner
of my Rabbit must have stripped the oil pan drain bolt threads, as a
helicoil-type repair insert has been installed. Unfortunately, it leaks
at the repair joint (the bolt seals fine though).
I think I'm going to try this on my diesel Rabbit. Any reason this
would be a bad idea?
John S.
I think you will find that:
1. It will be all but impossible to get the helicoil and pan clean
enough to allow superglue to adhere.
2. The glue will probably shatter at some point.
I you want to try filling the gaps, consider something like a
non-hardening high temperature gasket sealer after thoroughly cleaning
the pan and helicoil. After all this fiddling around you may
ultimately find a boneyard pan is the best way to go.
jfran...@gmail.com
why don't you just replace the oil pan and not waste your time.
HotRod
metal. I'd use an epoxy mix.
sdlomi2
<tyl...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1138035191.6...@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com...
in a replacement plug/nut cheaply--don't hafta buy another pan. s
none2u
oil pan gasket incorrectly where it mated to the front cover. There was a
lip where the gaskets overlapped seated incorrectly allowing oil to leak out
about a half a quart a day. Their trick was to put a vacuumn on the oil
breather hole and clean the leak area off with contact cleaner, until
spotless. And use high temp red rtv and they sucked it in with the vacuumn
and shut it down and let it dry overnite. It was not leaking 6 years later.
Also someone did the exact same trick on a Ford 302 rear intake gasket.,
using red high temp rtv. The fix is to take the intake off and put a new
gasket on. it was about a $500 fix. It was much more difficult to clean, but
lasted about a year and a half. Also I guarantee that superglue on an
aircraft engine is NOT approved by the FAA. General Aviation owners are much
more lenient about their repairs , and I,m sure everything has been tried to
save a buck , by people who can't afford proper maintenance. Will it work ,
sometimes. Would I want to fly across water about 3 hours with it. No.
<jfran...@gmail.com> wrote in message
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none2u
rubber. If air can get to it through the material being glued, it will not
work.
"sdlomi2" <sdl...@spam.yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:eu8Bf.372$yj6...@fe03.lga...
Daniel J. Stern
Yep: Because it's the wrong material for the job. A fluid-sealing Helicoil
needs anaerobic thread sealant ("Loctite") which is chemically related to
super glue, but not at all the same. If the original repair didn't include
such a sealant, then the repair was not done correctly and needs to be
redone.
Keep YerSpam
I can think of a bunch of reasons why this might (probably) not work.
Like a previous poster said:
I doubt you'll get it clean enough to get the glue to do any real good.
I'll assume you want to try this to not remove the pan to fix it
properly. I'd pull the pan, clean it squeaky clean, then patch the
insert leak with an epoxy like JBWeld. Be careful not to get it on any
part you don't want it to stay on forever. It can be wiped clean &
removed when soft. If mixed right, once it's hard it's there for eternity.
Did the original story also mention that you'll probably have to seal up
the exhaust for the shop vac to build enough draw to suck fluid through
cracks? At least one valve in that engine will likely be open to the
exhaust no matter what position the crankshaft is at. Don't forget any
EGR system on the engine - gotta plug that up too. Not just plug, but
seal completely airtight. Are your valve covers & gaskets in minty-mint
shape and seal 100%? I have to wonder how strong a shop vac you need for
this to even come close to working ... ;)
Also, super glue will get brittle from engine heat over time and
crumble. SG is great for surface-to-surface repairs, but a crack is not
that kind of a repair - it's a jagged hole with a gap to fill. Even the
thicker gel type of SG stinks at that kind of repair. You'll probably be
right back where you started.
Good luck,
- JJ
Brian Running
> the exhaust for the shop vac to build enough draw to suck fluid through
> cracks? At least one valve in that engine will likely be open to the
> exhaust no matter what position the crankshaft is at. Don't forget any
> EGR system on the engine - gotta plug that up too. Not just plug, but
> seal completely airtight. Are your valve covers & gaskets in minty-mint
> shape and seal 100%? I have to wonder how strong a shop vac you need for
> this to even come close to working ... ;)
If the gap is so big that capillary action alone won't pull the super
glue in where you want it, then the gap's too big to use super glue to
repair.
I agree, JB Weld is a better idea for this application.
Papa
(new) gasket. You can find both on the internet at lower prices than what
the dealers charge.
Nate Nagel
yeah, seriously. It's probably not worth the time and effort to do it
when you figure it out.
http://www.parts4vws.com/catalog/product_detail.asp?PartNumber=051103601
and the gasket
http://www.parts4vws.com/catalog/product_detail.asp?PartNumber=048103609B
and a nice shiny new drain plug
http://www.parts4vws.com/catalog/product_detail.asp?PartNumber=N90288901
total cost $41 plus shipping, and you get a nice, undented oil pan that
you can paint the color of your choice to add a nice detailed touch to
the bottom of your engine. You will probably spend more time scraping
off the old gasket than you will doing anything else. (or are you the
guy that was already R&Ring the oil pan? if so then you REALLY need to
just buy a new pan.)
nate
--
replace "fly" with "com" to reply.
http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel
Huw
Go for it man.
This World needs pioneers and risk takers.
Please report your results back here so all humanity can benefit.
Huw
Baker@nowhere.com Dave Baker
> to fix an oil leak on an airplane. (The trick was to attach a shop vac
> to a breather so the glue is sucked into the crack.) The previous owner
> of my Rabbit must have stripped the oil pan drain bolt threads, as a
> helicoil-type repair insert has been installed. Unfortunately, it leaks
> at the repair joint (the bolt seals fine though).
Then it can't be a helicoil insert because this restores the thread back to
the original size and the bolt washer ought to seal over the whole of the
top of it. Maybe you mean some sort of solid type insert which involved
tapping the original thread out to a much larger size. In that case it
should have been installed with loctite or some other type of sealant.
Probably the easiest fix is to put a bigger washer under the bolt head which
covers the whole of the repair area and maybe even use a bit of silicone
sealant under that too.
--
Dave Baker
none2u
valves or egr will do anything. He's sucking the crankcase through the
breather hole , on the valve cover. The crankcase breather hole isn't
connected to the EGR or fuel or exhaust system. its the internal engine,
where the oils at. Hes on the other side of the pistons from the parts
youi're describing. He does however need to leave the oil cap on...
"Dave Baker" <Dave Ba...@nowhere.com> wrote in message
news:43d5928d$0$9236$6d36...@titian.nntpserver.com...
gkro...@advcs.com
just replace the pan, it is easy job, and you can pick up a used pan at
a junk yard, or just buy a new one..good luck e.w.rogers
Al Bundy
However, you could also just use one of those aftermarket rubber plugs
that seal from the inside.
none2u
stupid. I thought you were meaning the pan flange bolts, where the gasket
is. I think your too late now, because of the heli coils. If you can put
rtv on the wide part of oil drain plug everytime you change your oil, and
it seals, that may work. They made oversized self tapping drain plugs for
just this problem, but someone decided to use a helicoil. You may be able to
remove the helicoil and tap out the hole correctly and use a bigger bolt, if
theres enough metal left to do so. Your only option is to get a new pan and
gasket and change it out, if you can't get the drain plug to seal. Or let it
leak and put a case of oil in your car and drive around with it. The VW oil
pans brand new are real cheap, 20-30 dollars arent out of line. If you leak
all your oil out driving, your engine is trash.....
"Al Bundy" <MSfo...@mcpmail.com> wrote in message
news:1138198613.8...@g43g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
tyl...@gmail.com
> that seal from the inside.
I've never heard of those. Got a link?
Oh, and I tried the vacuum-and-superglue thing tonight. Still leaks.
Guess I'll be headed to the junkyard for a "new" pan.
N8N
You did see where parts4vws has a new pan for $20, didn't you?
nate
Al Bundy
they are under the "Help" brand.
tyl...@gmail.com
Yep, but if I get it from the yard I don't have to wait for it to be
shipped. Instant gratification ;)
Scott Dorsey
As a cheapskate, I would personally be more apt to drill and retap the
old pan for a larger plug than to replace the whole pan. A new pan could
be as much as ten or twenty dollars.
--scott
--
"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."
tyl...@gmail.com
> old pan
I considered it but I think that once I drilled out the helicoil-style
repair insert, I would have to find a freaking huge tap and bolt. Like
more than 21mm. The cost of the tap would be at least half the cost of
a new pan. Of course if you already have the tap then that's a
different story.
I think I might have been able to fix it by sealing the inside of the
repair insert, either with RTV or JB Weld or something. But if I'm
pulling the pan off anyway, I might as well spend the $20 on a new pan
to make sure I don't have to pull it off yet again the next day.
Lawrence Glickman
I concur. Put a *new* or somesuch in there instead of fudging about
with the leaking one. Labor is the issue here, not parts costs.
Lg
*
<1138035191.6...@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com>...
> I just read an interesting thread that discussed the use of superglue
> to fix an oil leak on an airplane. (The trick was to attach a shop vac
> to a breather so the glue is sucked into the crack.)
Can ANYBODY fathom a guess at the explosive power of a shop vac filled with
crankcase vapors?????.......
........you know, the very same combustible crankcase vapors that are
siphoned out of the crankcase by the PCV valve, and burned off in the
engine's combustion chambers.
A while back, one of the trade publications I receive did a news blurb
about a quick-lube shop that burned to the ground when a shop vac full of
vapors was touched off by the sparks created by the vac's motor brushes.
This shop was using the shop vac to hold the oil in the crankcase while
they removed the plug to change the gasket.....
.......they had done it, ".....a thousand times...."
Apparently one thousand-and-one was their magic number.....
>
> I think I'm going to try this on my diesel Rabbit. Any reason this
> would be a bad idea?
>
Gee, I don't know.....What do YOU think?
Pick a number!!!!!
Lawrence Glickman
>tyl...@gmail.com wrote in article
><1138035191.6...@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com>...
>> I just read an interesting thread that discussed the use of superglue
>> to fix an oil leak on an airplane. (The trick was to attach a shop vac
>> to a breather so the glue is sucked into the crack.)
>
>
>Can ANYBODY fathom a guess at the explosive power of a shop vac filled with
>crankcase vapors?????.......
Sounds like you need an enema.
FLEET is the brand I recommend, and it's inexpensive.
Scott Dorsey
>On Thu, 26 Jan 2006 16:32:13 -0600, "*" <nos...@this.addy.com> wrote:
>>tyl...@gmail.com wrote in article
>><1138035191.6...@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com>...
>>> I just read an interesting thread that discussed the use of superglue
>>> to fix an oil leak on an airplane. (The trick was to attach a shop vac
>>> to a breather so the glue is sucked into the crack.)
>>
>>
>>Can ANYBODY fathom a guess at the explosive power of a shop vac filled with
>>crankcase vapors?????.......
>
>Sounds like you need an enema.
>FLEET is the brand I recommend, and it's inexpensive.
I second the recommendation. However, when I was a kid, one of the
neighbors attempted to siphon gasoline from his tank with a vacuum
cleaner. He was surprisingly uninjured although his hair was singed
a little and the vacuum cleaner would never be the same again.
tyl...@gmail.com
*NOW* he tells me...!
Good thing diesel is a lot less dangerous than gasoline!
none2u
crap oil change , with hot engines, and someone working on their own car.
And I bet they sucked gas fumes into the canister , from the pvc valve. and
lit it with the electric motor. because they left the pvc hooked up and used
the oil fill cap hole to suck air. Thats their own stupidity. Of course
they sucked gas fumes backwards through the pvc valve. Just like someone
in this post said already. I said, use the pvc hole with the pvc
disconnected and leave the oil cap on. Its all in the details....
<tyl...@gmail.com> wrote in message
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*
none2u <no...@notimportant.orreal.off> wrote in article
<XJednbp0-6C...@centurytel.net>...
> Yea, Well,.. theres a big difference between a super fast we don't give
a
> crap oil change , with hot engines, and someone working on their own car.
> And I bet they sucked gas fumes into the canister , from the pvc valve.
and
> lit it with the electric motor. because they left the pvc hooked up and
used
> the oil fill cap hole to suck air. Thats their own stupidity. Of course
> they sucked gas fumes backwards through the pvc valve. Just like
someone
> in this post said already. I said, use the pvc hole with the pvc
> disconnected and leave the oil cap on. Its all in the details....
If you REALLY understood the operation of a PCV valve, you would realize
that it is closed when the engine is not running.............
ANY vacuum applied to the crankcase side of the PCV valve would only assist
the internal spring, and suck it more tightly closed.
*
tyl...@gmail.com wrote in article
<1138319819....@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com>...
> > Pick a number!!!!!
>
> *NOW* he tells me...!
>
> Good thing diesel is a lot less dangerous than gasoline!
>
>
That may be true, but once diesel oil gets going, it burns much hotter than
gasoline.
General rule of thumb.....the closer to Crude, the MORE BTU energy.
Tom Staresinic
"none2u" <no...@notimportant.orreal.off> wrote in message
news:WNCdnZ7nYr1...@centurytel.net...
> Superglue works on anything not porous like plastic, glass, and certain
> rubber. If air can get to it through the material being glued, it will not
> work................
Isn't human skin porous? It bends nothing better than skin. :)
Lambert Moonen
block outlets put vacuum pump
at one end and smear epoxy outsiede this wil suck it in de radiator and
walla !!!!! radiator is fixed. moony
<tyl...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1138035191.6...@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com...
>I just read an interesting thread that discussed the use of superglue
> to fix an oil leak on an airplane. (The trick was to attach a shop vac
> of my Rabbit must have stripped the oil pan drain bolt threads, as a
> helicoil-type repair insert has been installed. Unfortunately, it leaks
> at the repair joint (the bolt seals fine though).
>
five...@webtv.net
from WallyWorld for a buck.
mho
vƒe
Papa
the oil pan (use a new gasket, of course). Inexpensive, plus a lot more
reliable than any glue could ever be.
*
Lambert Moonen <lamb...@earthlink.net> wrote in article
<g8i1g.6668$sq5....@newsread2.news.atl.earthlink.net>...
> This would be a good idee for radiator repair (plastic ones)
> block outlets put vacuum pump
> at one end and smear epoxy outsiede this wil suck it in de radiator and
> walla !!!!! radiator is fixed. moony
Most two-part epoxies will NOT work with plastic. As a matter of fact, I
mix most of my two-part epoxies on plastic boards.
There IS one two-part epoxy that works with plastics called "Plastic
Welder".
It is made by Devcon, but sold under many different brand names including
Loctite.
Slowper
--
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