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Do the Toyota Camry headlight polishers actually work well?
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Danny D.
Jul 16, 2017, 8:11:28 PM7/16/17
to
Overall, do those yellowed polycarbonate headlight deoxidizing chemicals or
1600-grit polishing solutions actually work well enough to be
indistinguishable from new?
We bought for a college kid an older Toyota Camry of the early 2002-2006
model vintage where the polycarbonate on the headlights oxidized over time
to a cloudy yellowed appearance (and the speaker covers on the rear deck
are both burned off by sunlight).
The kid has two options, of course, which is replace the oxidized
headlights altogether, or try those "toothpaste & sandpaper" deoxidizing
remedies on the net, which 'sound' maybe a bit too good to be true.
http://www.jpauleytoyota.com/blog/how-to-clean-your-foggy-headlights-at-home/
While the pictures by the headlight-polishing companies are always
impressive
http://xfactorae.com
Yet, this article says that abrasives will only work on "glass" lenses.
http://www.ebay.com/gds/THE-TRUTH-ABOUT-HEADLIGHT-CLEANERS-/10000000000945494/g.html
Only someone with actual experience would know the answer to that question.
Overall, do those yellowed polycarbonate headlight deoxidizing chemicals or
1600-grit polishing solutions actually work well enough to be
indistinguishable from new?
If so, which ones do you have the best experience with on Toyota
headlights?
1600-grit polishing solutions actually work well enough to be
indistinguishable from new?
We bought for a college kid an older Toyota Camry of the early 2002-2006
model vintage where the polycarbonate on the headlights oxidized over time
to a cloudy yellowed appearance (and the speaker covers on the rear deck
are both burned off by sunlight).
The kid has two options, of course, which is replace the oxidized
headlights altogether, or try those "toothpaste & sandpaper" deoxidizing
remedies on the net, which 'sound' maybe a bit too good to be true.
http://www.jpauleytoyota.com/blog/how-to-clean-your-foggy-headlights-at-home/
While the pictures by the headlight-polishing companies are always
impressive
http://xfactorae.com
Yet, this article says that abrasives will only work on "glass" lenses.
http://www.ebay.com/gds/THE-TRUTH-ABOUT-HEADLIGHT-CLEANERS-/10000000000945494/g.html
Only someone with actual experience would know the answer to that question.
Overall, do those yellowed polycarbonate headlight deoxidizing chemicals or
1600-grit polishing solutions actually work well enough to be
indistinguishable from new?
If so, which ones do you have the best experience with on Toyota
headlights?
Frank
Jul 16, 2017, 8:40:27 PM7/16/17
to
You can polish back with tooth paste but the kit might contain an
ingredient that also makes the lens scratch resistant. I know of
commercial acrylic materials that do this and I suspect some lens
manufactures use them and some don't.
Ed Pawlowski
Jul 16, 2017, 8:56:30 PM7/16/17
to
On 7/16/2017 8:07 PM, Danny D. wrote:
> Overall, do those yellowed polycarbonate headlight deoxidizing chemicals or
> 1600-grit polishing solutions actually work well enough to be
> indistinguishable from new?
>
Nothing will make them as good as new. My neighbor used a kit on his
> 1600-grit polishing solutions actually work well enough to be
> indistinguishable from new?
>
kid's car. Based on his results I'd try it. Much better than the dull
they were, but not brand new. I don't know what brand he ised
Danny D.
Jul 16, 2017, 9:13:10 PM7/16/17
to
On Sun, 16 Jul 2017 20:40:23 -0400, Frank wrote:
> Problem is not just oxidation but erosion by particulates like sand.
I read all the pages I referenced where I find it hard to believe the
> Problem is not just oxidation but erosion by particulates like sand.
lenses were 'sandblasted'. These look "foggy" and "yellowed" and "cloudy"
but they're not sandblasted, and, for passenger vehicles in suburbia, I
can't fathom the 'erosion' argument.
Of course, in farm country of the dust bowl, I can see that, but then the
paint would be just as eroded, and maybe even more, which is not the case.
So I think this is only "sun" erosion, whether that's a chemical change in
the plastic (oxidation?) or if it's a physical effect (UV damage) I don't
know.
> You can polish back with tooth paste but the kit might contain an
> ingredient that also makes the lens scratch resistant.
them from future sun damage, which makes sense only if the wax actually
works, since this is a see-through surface.
I don't see why anyone would want "scratch resistance" in a headlight which
isn't exposed to scratching in normal use (dust bowl in Kansas might be
different but this is suburbia).
> I know of
> commercial acrylic materials that do this and I suspect some lens
> manufactures use them and some don't.
ask):
1. I don't think it's sandblasting that did it - I think it was the sun.
2. I don't know if it's a physical change or a chemical change (or both).
3. I suspect if there was a "sealant", Toyota would have used it.
4. I suspect, as stated, polishing is the way to go (but I'm unsure).
5. I don't know if liquid "de-oxidizers" (whatever that means) work.
My leaning is toward a 1000 to 2000 grit wet abrasive plus wax when done,
but I don't know how long it will last nor how good it can get yet.
Danny D.
Jul 16, 2017, 9:14:46 PM7/16/17
to
On Sun, 16 Jul 2017 20:56:27 -0400, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
> Nothing will make them as good as new.
That seems like pragmatic advice.
> Nothing will make them as good as new.
The news ones aren't all that expensive either.
But to a kid they are.
> My neighbor used a kit on his kid's car. Based on his results I'd try it.
the plastic when done.
> Much better than the dull they were, but not brand new.
> I don't know what brand he ised
Vic Smith
Jul 16, 2017, 9:32:05 PM7/16/17
to
yellowing and very minor scratches. It cost about 6 bucks for enough to for a dozen cars.
Just pour a bit on a cotton rag - I like to use old T-shirts - add a minute or two of elbow
grease and hose it off. Or spray some Windex and use a rag to clean the residue.
The lenses won't look new, because it won't take out pits and deep scratches.
But it's a big improvement.
Stormin' Norman
Jul 16, 2017, 9:39:47 PM7/16/17
to
Danny D.
Jul 16, 2017, 9:46:18 PM7/16/17
to
On Sun, 16 Jul 2017 20:31:57 -0500, Vic Smith wrote:
> You have to try it yourself. I used Blue Magic on 2 cars and it cleared up fogging,
> yellowing and very minor scratches. It cost about 6 bucks for enough to for a dozen cars.
> Just pour a bit on a cotton rag - I like to use old T-shirts - add a minute or two of elbow
> grease and hose it off. Or spray some Windex and use a rag to clean the residue.
> The lenses won't look new, because it won't take out pits and deep scratches.
> But it's a big improvement.
Thanks for that specific pointer to "Blue Magic".
> You have to try it yourself. I used Blue Magic on 2 cars and it cleared up fogging,
> yellowing and very minor scratches. It cost about 6 bucks for enough to for a dozen cars.
> Just pour a bit on a cotton rag - I like to use old T-shirts - add a minute or two of elbow
> grease and hose it off. Or spray some Windex and use a rag to clean the residue.
> The lenses won't look new, because it won't take out pits and deep scratches.
> But it's a big improvement.
A quick search shows "Blue Magic" seems to be a line of "things" but
specifically two related things:
1. Blue Magic 725CD-06 Headlight Lens Restorer - 8 oz
https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Magic-725CD-06-Headlight-Restorer/dp/B001PH0WUU
2. Blue Magic 730-6 Headlight Lens Sealer - 8 oz.
https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Magic-730-6-Headlight-Sealer/dp/B0051PJWQW
A. Here is the Blue Magic "restorer" MSDS:
http://bluemagicusa.com/index.php/blue_magic/products/101/headlight_lens_restorer/
Aluminium Oxide, Non-Fibrous (50 - 70%)
Distillates, Hydrotreated Light (5 - 10%)
Ammonium Hydroxide, Buffer Solution (1 - 5%)
Neodol 23-6.5E (1 - 5%) <==== what is that?
Argilla (1 - 5%) <==== what is that?
Pluronic F 98 (1 - 5%) <==== what is that?
Acrylates Copolymer (<1%) <=== hmmmm... what is this?
CI 77007 (<1%) <===== CI?
B. Here is the Blue Magic "sealer" MSDS:
http://bluemagicusa.com/index.php/blue_magic/products/238/headlight_lens_sealer/
Hydrotreated Light Distillate (75.0 ¡V 85.0%)
Polydimethylsiloxane (18.0 ¡V 28.0 %) <== ?
I have some homework to do but thanks for the pointer since this "Blue
Magic" "sealer" and "restorer" seem to be ubiquitous based on the result of
a quick search.
Ed Pawlowski
Jul 16, 2017, 9:53:02 PM7/16/17
to
On 7/16/2017 9:09 PM, Danny D. wrote:
> On Sun, 16 Jul 2017 20:40:23 -0400, Frank wrote:
>
>> Problem is not just oxidation but erosion by particulates like sand.
>
> I read all the pages I referenced where I find it hard to believe the
> lenses were 'sandblasted'. These look "foggy" and "yellowed" and "cloudy"
> but they're not sandblasted, and, for passenger vehicles in suburbia, I
> can't fathom the 'erosion' argument.
That would depends on where suburbia is. In the snowbelt, the roads are
> On Sun, 16 Jul 2017 20:40:23 -0400, Frank wrote:
>
>> Problem is not just oxidation but erosion by particulates like sand.
>
> I read all the pages I referenced where I find it hard to believe the
> lenses were 'sandblasted'. These look "foggy" and "yellowed" and "cloudy"
> but they're not sandblasted, and, for passenger vehicles in suburbia, I
> can't fathom the 'erosion' argument.
salted and sanded and that can have an effect. Obviously that is only a
prtion of the problem but look at windshields after 60,000 miles.
>
> So I think this is only "sun" erosion, whether that's a chemical change in
> the plastic (oxidation?) or if it's a physical effect (UV damage) I don't
> know.
> I don't see why anyone would want "scratch resistance" in a headlight which
> isn't exposed to scratching in normal use (dust bowl in Kansas might be
> different but this is suburbia).
>
> Here's my gut feeling (which can be completely wrong - so that's why I
> ask):
>
> 1. I don't think it's sandblasting that did it - I think it was the sun.
> 2. I don't know if it's a physical change or a chemical change (or both).
> 3. I suspect if there was a "sealant", Toyota would have used it.
> 4. I suspect, as stated, polishing is the way to go (but I'm unsure).
> 5. I don't know if liquid "de-oxidizers" (whatever that means) work.
2. I'd think both
3. Agree, unless it wears off over time
4. Agree.
5. Never heard of them
>
> My leaning is toward a 1000 to 2000 grit wet abrasive plus wax when done,
> but I don't know how long it will last nor how good it can get yet.
Scott Dorsey
Jul 16, 2017, 9:57:54 PM7/16/17
to
Danny D. <dannyd...@gmail.com> wrote:
>Overall, do those yellowed polycarbonate headlight deoxidizing chemicals or
>1600-grit polishing solutions actually work well enough to be
>indistinguishable from new?
No, but what do you want for five bucks?
>Overall, do those yellowed polycarbonate headlight deoxidizing chemicals or
>1600-grit polishing solutions actually work well enough to be
>indistinguishable from new?
Buy whatever kit your FLAPS has on sale and try it. It'll be a big
improvement.
Will it be any bigger than Ajax cleanser slurry on a quarter sheet sander pad?
Dunno, but for five bucks I'd try it.
--scott
--
"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."
Retired
Jul 16, 2017, 10:04:53 PM7/16/17
to
sandpaper and 2 liquids. Kit has everything you need.
https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/sylvania-headlight-restoration-kit-38771/10027404-P?zoneAssigned=1&prefZC=06032
There is a YouTube video showing how to use it.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KWjSd__zidE&list=PLULYBbkie4iYWu1IAJ1o4ML7LhZhrffl3&index=1
It's only been 4 months now but the my lights look great.
Danny D.
Jul 16, 2017, 10:06:56 PM7/16/17
to
On Mon, 17 Jul 2017 01:39:32 +0000, Stormin' Norman wrote:
> This product?
>
> http://amzn.to/2utIFqd
>
>
> Did you also use the sealer?
>
> http://amzn.to/2utBzSp
Blue Magic (restorer/sealer) versus something from "3M"...
> This product?
>
> http://amzn.to/2utIFqd
>
>
> Did you also use the sealer?
>
> http://amzn.to/2utBzSp
While the net contains anything you want it to contain, it's worth reading
this article of a guy who used the blue magic "restorer" solution.
http://productreviewratings.com/2009/04/blue-magic-headlight-restorer/
"Based on my own results, I cannot recommend blue magic as a way
to completely restore fogged or scratched headlights. Everyone¢s
headlights are different, so I cannot say for sure that the product
won¢t work for some people. However, based on the time I spent with
and without a polishing drill, and comparing the results to the turtle
wax, this product was not worth the $7 bucks it cost me."
He concludes:
"The 3M Headlight Lens Restoration System requires a little extra
elbow grease and cash, but it is the only way you can be sure to
get those headlights looking clean and brand spanking new again!"
Looking up the 3M product...
http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/media/516179O/3m-headlight-lens-restoration-system-detailed-instruct-for-use.pdf
3M 39008 Headlight Lens Restoration System
https://www.amazon.com/3M-39008-Headlight-Restoration-System/dp/B001AIZ5HY
There seem to be 9 different 3M "kits" according to the 3M site:
http://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company-us/all-3m-products/~/3M-Headlight-Restoration-Kit
The MSDS is a multi-part MSDS due to the multiple components in the kit.
http://images.myautoproducts.com/images/Product_Media/MSDS/3M/3M-39008_MSDS.pdf
3M (TM) Headlight Lens Restoration System, PN 39008
3M(TM) Headlight Lens Polish PN 39005
* WATER 7732- 8-5 30 - 60%
* HYDROTREATED LIGHT PETROLEUM DISTILLATES 64742-47-8 10 - 30%
* QUARTZ SILICA 14808-60-7 10 - 30%
* KAOLINITE 1318-74-7 3 - 7%
* ASSOCIATED MINERALS Mixture 1 - 5%
* OLEIC ACID 112-80-1 1 - 5%
* SOLVENT-REFINED HEAVY PARAFFINIC PETROLEUM DISTILLATES 64741-88-4 1 - 5%
* MINERAL OIL 64741-89-5 0.5 - 1.5%
* GLYCERIN 56-81-5 0.5 - 1.5%
* POLY(OXYETHYLENE)SORBITAN MONOSTEARATE 9005-67-8 0.1 - 1.0%
Danny D.
Jul 16, 2017, 10:28:50 PM7/16/17
to
On Sun, 16 Jul 2017 20:58:29 -0500, My 2 Cents wrote:
> 50 bucks for both, new with bulbs. I know what I'd do. Be sure to
> check the shipping costs. Since the kid is college bound give him/her
> the tools and see if they can change them without help.
> http://www.discountbodyparts.com/catalog/feeds/Replacement/Headlight/SET-20-5219-00.html?dbpcid=gglpla
The web site has the right price $50 (PN SET-20-5219-00) but it doesn't say
it fits the 4-cyl "LE" Camry.
I called 1-888-346-5511x1 and gave them the part number above and they said
that's $25 each lens for a Corolla. A Camry PN is T100121 (passenger side)
$63.44 each lens + shipping + tax.
Still, less than 100 bucks (taxed/shipped, but I'm guessing) is not too bad
for an auto part - but a bit high for a kid with no job other than to be a
full-time student who is a junior and away from home for the first time,
getting settled, 200 miles from her parents.
> 50 bucks for both, new with bulbs. I know what I'd do. Be sure to
> check the shipping costs. Since the kid is college bound give him/her
> the tools and see if they can change them without help.
> http://www.discountbodyparts.com/catalog/feeds/Replacement/Headlight/SET-20-5219-00.html?dbpcid=gglpla
The web site has the right price $50 (PN SET-20-5219-00) but it doesn't say
it fits the 4-cyl "LE" Camry.
I called 1-888-346-5511x1 and gave them the part number above and they said
that's $25 each lens for a Corolla. A Camry PN is T100121 (passenger side)
$63.44 each lens + shipping + tax.
Still, less than 100 bucks (taxed/shipped, but I'm guessing) is not too bad
for an auto part - but a bit high for a kid with no job other than to be a
full-time student who is a junior and away from home for the first time,
getting settled, 200 miles from her parents.
Danny D.
Jul 16, 2017, 10:31:11 PM7/16/17
to
On Sun, 16 Jul 2017 21:52:59 -0400, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
> That would depends on where suburbia is. In the snowbelt, the roads are
> salted and sanded and that can have an effect. Obviously that is only a
> prtion of the problem but look at windshields after 60,000 miles.
Califonria suburbia.
> That would depends on where suburbia is. In the snowbelt, the roads are
> salted and sanded and that can have an effect. Obviously that is only a
> prtion of the problem but look at windshields after 60,000 miles.
The environment doesn't get any easier than California, except for the
full-time sun - there's almost no dirt, grit, salt, or cold to worry about.
> I'd bet on UV. It is not kind to plastics.
cl...@snyder.on.ca
Jul 16, 2017, 10:49:39 PM7/16/17
to
like new for about 5 months-8 months, then go bad again. The sealer
makes 'em last a little longer
Danny D.
Jul 16, 2017, 11:30:37 PM7/16/17
to
On Sun, 16 Jul 2017 22:49:42 -0400, cl...@snyder.on.ca wrote:
>>It's only been 4 months now but the my lights look great.
> I've used several with excellent but short term results. They look
> like new for about 5 months-8 months, then go bad again. The sealer
> makes 'em last a little longer
After having looked at the ingredients, all contain a grit, particularly
>>It's only been 4 months now but the my lights look great.
> I've used several with excellent but short term results. They look
> like new for about 5 months-8 months, then go bad again. The sealer
> makes 'em last a little longer
"aluminum oxide".
Anyone know where to get a free handful of "aluminum oxide" grit?
Given the worst thing that can happen is we ruin what is already ruined, it
may be worth experimenting with some of that bentonite clay I got from a
well driller for use in the heavy poison oak.
I'm thinking a few sheets of 1000 grit to 2000 grit wet sandpaper.
Plus a handful of free bentonite well-driller's clay.
Plus free college-aged elbow grease and free water from the hose.
The "sealer" seems to be Polydimethylsiloxane (aka dimethicone).
It's in shampoo/conditioner to make hair "slippery and shiny".
And in Rain-X. Silly putty too. Silicone grease. All says Wikipedia anyway.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polydimethylsiloxane
So maybe a handful of bentonite (which I have) or aluminum oxide (if I can
find it) plus water and fine-grit sandpaper will polish - and - maybe hair
conditioner or Rain-X will seal it?
Where can we get a handful of free "aluminum oxide" & "dimethicone"?
dsi1
Jul 16, 2017, 11:57:35 PM7/16/17
to
https://www.amazon.com/photos/share/aC1Op7Ig0fvjkA3C5sBgaSN5D4OUsKMXEva6gWTKJ19
Vic Smith
Jul 17, 2017, 5:09:56 AM7/17/17
to
No.
The lenses were still looking good a couple years later.
The cars were 16 and 10 years old when I used it in 2011.
Ed Pawlowski
Jul 17, 2017, 8:46:06 AM7/17/17
to
polish/restoration kit As an adult with a decent job I'd go with new
lenses. As an adult with a very good income I'd opt for a new car.
Oren
Jul 17, 2017, 11:11:22 AM7/17/17
to
>Overall, do those yellowed polycarbonate headlight deoxidizing chemicals or
>1600-grit polishing solutions actually work well enough to be
>indistinguishable from new?
Danny,
>1600-grit polishing solutions actually work well enough to be
>indistinguishable from new?
My wife took our cars to Sam's Club Auto Center to have the headlights
restored, last year. Cost ~$30 and has a 5 year warranty. They still
look great. Living in the desert with blowing sand and UV damage.
I didn't have to do any work :-|
Sam's Club Headlight Renewal:
<https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F9RyTa2fVJg>
Danny D.
Jul 17, 2017, 11:20:14 AM7/17/17
to
On Mon, 17 Jul 2017 08:11:15 -0700, Oren wrote:
> Danny,
>
> My wife took our cars to Sam's Club Auto Center to have the headlights
> restored, last year. Cost ~$30 and has a 5 year warranty. They still
> look great. Living in the desert with blowing sand and UV damage.
>
> I didn't have to do any work :-|
>
> Sam's Club Headlight Renewal:
>
> <https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F9RyTa2fVJg>
You know your huckleberries, so I trust your opinion.
> Danny,
>
> My wife took our cars to Sam's Club Auto Center to have the headlights
> restored, last year. Cost ~$30 and has a 5 year warranty. They still
> look great. Living in the desert with blowing sand and UV damage.
>
> I didn't have to do any work :-|
>
> Sam's Club Headlight Renewal:
>
> <https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F9RyTa2fVJg>
That means the stuff works.
And $15/headlight is in this kid's budget!
Thanks!
Bob F
Jul 17, 2017, 11:43:26 AM7/17/17
to
On 7/16/2017 8:30 PM, Danny D. wrote:
> Where can we get a handful of free "aluminum oxide" & "dimethicone"?
Try polishing the lights with some toothpaste or BonAmi polishing cleanser.
> Where can we get a handful of free "aluminum oxide" & "dimethicone"?
Oren
Jul 17, 2017, 12:15:35 PM7/17/17
to
sure any DIY kits have that included. Sam's did the work, a warranty
and I stayed lazy :-)
Retired
Jul 17, 2017, 12:39:08 PM7/17/17
to
On 7/17/17 12:15 PM, Oren wrote:
> On Mon, 17 Jul 2017 15:16:15 -0000 (UTC), "Danny D."
> <dannyd...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> On Mon, 17 Jul 2017 08:11:15 -0700, Oren wrote:
>>
>>> Danny,
>>>
>>> My wife took our cars to Sam's Club Auto Center to have the headlights
>>> restored, last year. Cost ~$30 and has a 5 year warranty. They still
>>> look great. Living in the desert with blowing sand and UV damage.
>>>
>>> I didn't have to do any work :-|
>>>
>>> Sam's Club Headlight Renewal:
>>>
>>> <https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F9RyTa2fVJg>
>>
>> You know your huckleberries, so I trust your opinion.
>> That means the stuff works.
>> And $15/headlight is in this kid's budget!
>> Thanks!
>
> IIRC, Sam's adds a clear UV protection coating after the finish. *Not
> On Mon, 17 Jul 2017 15:16:15 -0000 (UTC), "Danny D."
> <dannyd...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> On Mon, 17 Jul 2017 08:11:15 -0700, Oren wrote:
>>
>>> Danny,
>>>
>>> My wife took our cars to Sam's Club Auto Center to have the headlights
>>> restored, last year. Cost ~$30 and has a 5 year warranty. They still
>>> look great. Living in the desert with blowing sand and UV damage.
>>>
>>> I didn't have to do any work :-|
>>>
>>> Sam's Club Headlight Renewal:
>>>
>>> <https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F9RyTa2fVJg>
>>
>> You know your huckleberries, so I trust your opinion.
>> That means the stuff works.
>> And $15/headlight is in this kid's budget!
>> Thanks!
>
> sure any DIY kits have that included*. Sam's did the work, a warranty
> and I stayed lazy :-)
$30 to have it done is nice. However the Sylvania $20 kit does include
UV block.
Kit contents:
1 oz. Surface Activator
1/2 oz. Clarifying Compound
1 oz. UV Block Clear Coat
Waterproof Premium Sandpaper (400, 1000 & 2000 grit)
Applicator and Polish Cloths
Vinyl Glove
Oren
Jul 17, 2017, 1:40:43 PM7/17/17
to
year warranty. Total $30 and no labor at my house.
Scott Dorsey
Jul 17, 2017, 2:02:30 PM7/17/17
to
Oren <Or...@127.0.0.1> wrote:
>
>Yeah butt, DIY kits don't give a warranty for labor. Sam's gives five
>year warranty. Total $30 and no labor at my house.
Wait a minute, this is your kid's car?
>
>Yeah butt, DIY kits don't give a warranty for labor. Sam's gives five
>year warranty. Total $30 and no labor at my house.
Sheesh, buy the $5 kit and make HIM do the work.
Danny D.
Jul 17, 2017, 2:07:23 PM7/17/17
to
On Mon, 17 Jul 2017 12:39:00 -0400, Retired wrote:
> $30 to have it done is nice. However the Sylvania $20 kit does include
> UV block.
>
> Kit contents:
>
> 1 oz. Surface Activator
> 1/2 oz. Clarifying Compound
> 1 oz. UV Block Clear Coat
> Waterproof Premium Sandpaper (400, 1000 & 2000 grit)
> Applicator and Polish Cloths
> Vinyl Glove
I like to know how things work, since there's usually no magic involved.
> $30 to have it done is nice. However the Sylvania $20 kit does include
> UV block.
>
> Kit contents:
>
> 1 oz. Surface Activator
> 1/2 oz. Clarifying Compound
> 1 oz. UV Block Clear Coat
> Waterproof Premium Sandpaper (400, 1000 & 2000 grit)
> Applicator and Polish Cloths
> Vinyl Glove
Looking up the Sylvania kit, is this the combination you are talking about?
http://www.osram-americas.com/en-us/products/automotive/Pages/headlight-restoration-kit.aspx
$18 SYLVANIA Headlight Restoration Kit
https://www.amazon.com/Sylvania-HRK-BX-SYLVANIA-Headlight-Restoration/dp/B00429NKWK
$12 SYLVANIA Headlight Restoration UV Block Clear Coat, 1 fl. oz.
https://www.amazon.com/Sylvania-HRK-BX-SYLVANIA-Headlight-Restoration/dp/B01KIVYE6G?th=1
It's a multipart where this has some of the permutations & combinations:
https://www.opticatonline.com/part/sylvania-uvbkit-headlight-restoration-kit
It seems (almost?) impossible to find the MSDS for this stuff online, so I
can't tell you what's in it yet. I have a call open to Sylvania at
1.800.729.3777 to ask them to email them to me though.
I realize I take a different approach than almost everyone here in that I
don't stay on the same well-worn trails that everyone else does. To me,
product solutions just commodities that are just basic chemicals.
The work is in finding out what the chemicals are, and in figuring out what
they do that matters - which is the fun part.
So far, it seems that the uv block is just simethicone (silicone) and the
restoration part is just aluminum oxide (grit) but that's only a basic
assumption based on the 3M results.
I'll let you know what Sylvania comes up with as their "magic" ingredients.
Frank
Jul 17, 2017, 2:17:39 PM7/17/17
to
I know the formula used for scratch resistant plastic but cannot divulge
it. It would basically be applied like a wax. That's why it may be in
a lens refinish kit but I do not know for sure. These finishes are also
used on plastic eyeglass lens which easily scratch. Composition I had
seen was for acrylic sheets.
Both acrylic and polycarbonate have good outdoor resistance but both are
much softer than glass and easily scratched and dulled. Years ago I had
a watch with plastic lens that I occasionally restored clarity with
tooth paste. Toothpaste contains particulate that will not scratch teeth
but is a mistake to use on plastic dentures as it could wear them. I
have an old dental bridge that once had a plastic coating. Now years
later after years of brushing it is gone and all metal.
Danny D.
Jul 17, 2017, 2:19:27 PM7/17/17
to
On 17 Jul 2017 14:02:27 -0400, Scott Dorsey wrote:
> Wait a minute, this is your kid's car?
>
> Sheesh, buy the $5 kit and make HIM do the work.
It's not as simple as that.
> Wait a minute, this is your kid's car?
>
> Sheesh, buy the $5 kit and make HIM do the work.
It's not my kid and she's a few hundred miles away.
I'm just doing the research because they TRUST me to know the answers.
For example, I taught them that cheap acetone is better than nail polish,
and they've been using that ever since.
I told them that vinegar works wonders in the kitchen (for getting rid of
scale in pots and glasses) and they love the simplicity.
I taught them that mayonaise in a jar is horrid stuff compared to what
their grandma makes with just an egg, oil, and lemon juice. Likewise with
whipped cream that is made from real cream.
It's similar to the fact that they've never once bought salad dressing in a
jar (where they pluck the tomato and parsley and basil themselves from
outside) nor have they ever eaten pasta without sauce from the same
ingredients from home.
To me, they know that to buy a headlight restoration kit would be like to
buy a microwavable TV dinner or ready-made popcorn or frozen orange juice
or any number of barely edible things which have no business being sold to
human beings who can think about what it is that they are consuming.
So for me, the fun is in figuring out what the "magic" is, whereas in most
people, it seems, they drink the jimjones punch and just buy the "magic
solution" without even thinking about what is inside that they already
might have at home.
Mayonaise is a good example. Ice cream also. If you ever made it (and I'm
sure most of you have), you realize they're just basic ingredients - but if
you look on the label of the store-bought stuff - you'd be horrified
instantly.
I'm no "organic" evangelist (my tomatoes outside fertilized with coyote
poop are just as organic as anything bought for double the price in the
fancy grocery store).
I just believe in figuring out the "mystery" in marvel mystery oil (which
is just light sewing machine oil - which is itself just a light petroleum
distillate - which is pretty much in almost everything).
This kid is taught that gasoline is a commodity (tier 1 at Costco being
good enough) and that motor oil, despite the outlandish claims, is motor
oil (SN being good enough and API viscosities being essentially meaningless
in California - and yes - I know what they indicate).
Too many people, I believe, think that our "consumer" society requires
these magical mystery claims when the polisher appears to be a fine grit
and a silicone protectant ... which is fine if that's the case ... but I'm
still working on what it is.
Danny D.
Jul 17, 2017, 2:31:50 PM7/17/17
to
On Mon, 17 Jul 2017 18:15:29 -0000 (UTC), Danny D. wrote:
> This kid is taught that gasoline is a commodity (tier 1 at Costco being
> good enough) and that motor oil, despite the outlandish claims, is motor
> oil (SN being good enough and API viscosities being essentially meaningless
> in California - and yes - I know what they indicate).
Ooops. I meant SAE viscosities are meaningless in practical terms where I
> This kid is taught that gasoline is a commodity (tier 1 at Costco being
> good enough) and that motor oil, despite the outlandish claims, is motor
> oil (SN being good enough and API viscosities being essentially meaningless
> in California - and yes - I know what they indicate).
live, but you knew what I meant (API being for the SN or SM, which is good
enough for any kid's car).
My point is that it's worthwhile to figure out the "magic" in the
ingredients where basic chemistry is the rule, not the mystery.
To that end Sylvania sent the MSDF which is a bit cryptic:
MATERIAL SAFETY DATA SHEET #080513HRKUVBCC HRK UV BLock Clear Coat
Bottled By: Dvelup 888-350-2932
Stoddard Solvent CAS 8052-41-3
Stoddard Solvent CAS 64742-88-7
Where the MSDS says "This products formula is considered a trade secret,
the exact chemical names of the ingredient(s) and the percentages in which
they are combined will not appear in the body of this sheet. The exact
composition is available upon request to physicians, industrial hygienists
and other health professionals."
The "secret ingredients" are probably just dimethicone, but that's what
I'll try to find out.
Frank
Jul 17, 2017, 2:42:40 PM7/17/17
to
On 7/16/2017 9:42 PM, Danny D. wrote:
> CI 77007
I looked over what you posted and you have a mixture of abrasives and
surfactants and a bluish coloring agent.
Blue tint is often added to plastics to make them look less yellow but
does not improve brightness. Laundry detergents often contain bluing.
The polydimethylsiloxane might improve scratch resistance. It is also
water repellent.
I'm a retired chemist but still do consulting and write a lot of MSDS's,
now just called Safety Data Sheets, SDS's, meeting Globally Harmonized
System requirements.
It is not necessary to divulge all ingredients except those mandated by
the EPA but all hazards must be disclosed. The Blue Magic SDS discloses
all ingredients and hazards but is outdated and not quite GHS compliant.
It is not particularly hazardous and probably does not require the new
hazard symbols.
> CI 77007
I looked over what you posted and you have a mixture of abrasives and
surfactants and a bluish coloring agent.
Blue tint is often added to plastics to make them look less yellow but
does not improve brightness. Laundry detergents often contain bluing.
The polydimethylsiloxane might improve scratch resistance. It is also
water repellent.
I'm a retired chemist but still do consulting and write a lot of MSDS's,
now just called Safety Data Sheets, SDS's, meeting Globally Harmonized
System requirements.
It is not necessary to divulge all ingredients except those mandated by
the EPA but all hazards must be disclosed. The Blue Magic SDS discloses
all ingredients and hazards but is outdated and not quite GHS compliant.
It is not particularly hazardous and probably does not require the new
hazard symbols.
Danny D.
Jul 17, 2017, 2:50:35 PM7/17/17
to
On Mon, 17 Jul 2017 14:17:33 -0400, Frank wrote:
> There is always grit to worry about on the road.
I've ridden a motorcycle in my youth for tens of thousands of miles, so,
> There is always grit to worry about on the road.
I'm aware of what happens when you drive behind almost any dump truck.
I also own a sand blasting kit, so, I'm aware of the power of sand
blasting.
Still, my gut feeling (but no science yet) tells me that these lenses are
yellowed from sunlight alone, and not from being sandblasted. I suspect if
I left a car in the sun and never drove it, that the lenses would still
yellow.
I'm not saying that sand blasting can't happen - I'm just intimating
(without hard science) that it's not happening. I could be wrong. (That's
why I have my huckleberry friends here to advise me.)
> I know the formula used for scratch resistant plastic but cannot divulge
> it. It would basically be applied like a wax. That's why it may be in
> a lens refinish kit but I do not know for sure. These finishes are also
> used on plastic eyeglass lens which easily scratch. Composition I had
> seen was for acrylic sheets.
http://bluemagicusa.com/index.php/blue_magic/products/101/headlight_lens_restorer/
It also lists Neodol, Argilla, and Pluronic F, none of which sound familiar
to me so I'll need to look them up but they're in tiny percentages also.
> Both acrylic and polycarbonate have good outdoor resistance but both are
> much softer than glass and easily scratched and dulled. Years ago I had
> a watch with plastic lens that I occasionally restored clarity with
> tooth paste. Toothpaste contains particulate that will not scratch teeth
> but is a mistake to use on plastic dentures as it could wear them. I
> have an old dental bridge that once had a plastic coating. Now years
> later after years of brushing it is gone and all metal.
those headlight lenses. I'm thinking the Bentonite Clay that a well driller
gave me is the right size (it's a powder) but if I can get a hold of
aluminum oxide powder, that would be a good second bet.
The toothpaste grit is often silicon dioxide (sand) but they used those
blue plastic beads for a while (I hope they stopped that by now).
The trick, of course, is to get the right grit.
The good news is that the worst thing that happens is we ruin an already
ruined headlight - so luckily experimentation is not risky.
Tekkie®
Jul 17, 2017, 3:23:19 PM7/17/17
to
Danny D. posted for all of us...
>
> Ooops. I meant SAE viscosities are meaningless in practical terms where I
> live, but you knew what I meant (API being for the SN or SM, which is good
> enough for any kid's car).
>
> My point is that it's worthwhile to figure out the "magic" in the
> ingredients where basic chemistry is the rule, not the mystery.
>
> To that end Sylvania sent the MSDF which is a bit cryptic:
> MATERIAL SAFETY DATA SHEET #080513HRKUVBCC HRK UV BLock Clear Coat
> Bottled By: Dvelup 888-350-2932
> Stoddard Solvent CAS 8052-41-3
> Stoddard Solvent CAS 64742-88-7
> Where the MSDS says "This products formula is considered a trade secret,
> the exact chemical names of the ingredient(s) and the percentages in which
> they are combined will not appear in the body of this sheet. The exact
> composition is available upon request to physicians, industrial hygienists
> and other health professionals."
>
> The "secret ingredients" are probably just dimethicone, but that's what
> I'll try to find out.
>
>
The original lenses had a UV protectant - I had a Toyota which did this
also. I took it to Sams & had it done. It lasted until my wife wrecked the
car... Less work for mother...
--
Tekkie
>
> Ooops. I meant SAE viscosities are meaningless in practical terms where I
> live, but you knew what I meant (API being for the SN or SM, which is good
> enough for any kid's car).
>
> My point is that it's worthwhile to figure out the "magic" in the
> ingredients where basic chemistry is the rule, not the mystery.
>
> To that end Sylvania sent the MSDF which is a bit cryptic:
> MATERIAL SAFETY DATA SHEET #080513HRKUVBCC HRK UV BLock Clear Coat
> Bottled By: Dvelup 888-350-2932
> Stoddard Solvent CAS 8052-41-3
> Stoddard Solvent CAS 64742-88-7
> Where the MSDS says "This products formula is considered a trade secret,
> the exact chemical names of the ingredient(s) and the percentages in which
> they are combined will not appear in the body of this sheet. The exact
> composition is available upon request to physicians, industrial hygienists
> and other health professionals."
>
> The "secret ingredients" are probably just dimethicone, but that's what
> I'll try to find out.
>
>
also. I took it to Sams & had it done. It lasted until my wife wrecked the
car... Less work for mother...
--
Tekkie
Danny D.
Jul 17, 2017, 4:26:07 PM7/17/17
to
On Mon, 17 Jul 2017 14:42:33 -0400, Frank wrote:
> I looked over what you posted and you have a mixture of abrasives and
> surfactants and a bluish coloring agent.
>
> Blue tint is often added to plastics to make them look less yellow but
> does not improve brightness. Laundry detergents often contain bluing.
>
> The polydimethylsiloxane might improve scratch resistance. It is also
> water repellent.
Thanks for looking over the chemistry of the "blue magic" ingredients of
> I looked over what you posted and you have a mixture of abrasives and
> surfactants and a bluish coloring agent.
>
> Blue tint is often added to plastics to make them look less yellow but
> does not improve brightness. Laundry detergents often contain bluing.
>
> The polydimethylsiloxane might improve scratch resistance. It is also
> water repellent.
the lens restorer and protective seal.
I, for one, do not believe in "magic" elixers, so, I suspect they all have
essentially the same ingredients so looking at the Blue Magic is probably
almost as good as looking at any other.
While I had never heard of these ingredients below, and while they're in
minute quantities (hence, they may not be meaningful), I did look them up
so I write a summary for the rest of the team to benefit from.
CI 77007 seems to be a deep blue pigment
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/CI_77007
http://cosmetics.specialchem.com/inci/ci-77007
Pluronic F seems to have a bunch of numbers after the F, as shown here
https://worldaccount.basf.com/wa/NAFTA~en_US/Catalog/ChemicalsNAFTA/pi/BASF/Brand/pluronic
where the "Pluronic" is a registered name indicated by "(R)".
[quote=BASF]
The Pluronic® types are block copolymers based on ethylene oxide
and propylene oxide. They can function as antifoaming agents,
wetting agents, dispersants, thickeners, and emulsifiers."
Argilla seems to be my old friend Bentonite, of which I have plenty that a
well driller gave me years ago for poison oak.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bentone_34
"CAS No. 1340-68-7(Bentone)" with synonyms of
arcilla blanca; argilla alba as described here
http://www.guidechem.com/cas-134/1340-68-7.html
http://www.lookchem.com/cas-134/1340-68-7.html
The Argilla (aka Bentone) is used to thicken greases:
http://www.ikvlubricants.com/grease-bentone-thickened-greases-gels-pastes
Neodol seems to be an ALCOHOL ETHOXYLATE surfactant/emulsifier whose
precise mix of chemicals depends on the number after the word.
http://s08.static-shell.com/content/dam/shell-new/local/business/chemicals/downloads/pdf/products-services/datasheets/chem-datasheet-neodol-25-5.pdf
Like the "Pluronic F" stuff, there are a billion mixes made by Shell.
http://www.surfachem.com/neodol-91-6
where it's described as a short-chain (C9-C11) alcohol with 6 moles of
ethylene oxide.
So those 4 mystery ingredients (admittedly in small quantities) are
1. blue pigment (CI 77007)
2. surfactants/emulsifiers (Pluronic F & Neodol)
3. thickening agent (Argilla)
Steve W.
Jul 17, 2017, 4:26:15 PM7/17/17
to
Danny D. wrote:
> Overall, do those yellowed polycarbonate headlight deoxidizing chemicals or
> 1600-grit polishing solutions actually work well enough to be
> indistinguishable from new?
>
> Overall, do those yellowed polycarbonate headlight deoxidizing chemicals or
> 1600-grit polishing solutions actually work well enough to be
> indistinguishable from new?
>
> We bought for a college kid an older Toyota Camry of the early 2002-2006
> model vintage where the polycarbonate on the headlights oxidized over time
> to a cloudy yellowed appearance (and the speaker covers on the rear deck
> are both burned off by sunlight).
>
> The kid has two options, of course, which is replace the oxidized
> headlights altogether, or try those "toothpaste & sandpaper" deoxidizing
> remedies on the net, which 'sound' maybe a bit too good to be true.
> http://www.jpauleytoyota.com/blog/how-to-clean-your-foggy-headlights-at-home/
>
> While the pictures by the headlight-polishing companies are always
> impressive
> http://xfactorae.com
>
> Yet, this article says that abrasives will only work on "glass" lenses.
> http://www.ebay.com/gds/THE-TRUTH-ABOUT-HEADLIGHT-CLEANERS-/10000000000945494/g.html
>
> Only someone with actual experience would know the answer to that question.
>
> model vintage where the polycarbonate on the headlights oxidized over time
> to a cloudy yellowed appearance (and the speaker covers on the rear deck
> are both burned off by sunlight).
>
> The kid has two options, of course, which is replace the oxidized
> headlights altogether, or try those "toothpaste & sandpaper" deoxidizing
> remedies on the net, which 'sound' maybe a bit too good to be true.
> http://www.jpauleytoyota.com/blog/how-to-clean-your-foggy-headlights-at-home/
>
> While the pictures by the headlight-polishing companies are always
> impressive
> http://xfactorae.com
>
> Yet, this article says that abrasives will only work on "glass" lenses.
> http://www.ebay.com/gds/THE-TRUTH-ABOUT-HEADLIGHT-CLEANERS-/10000000000945494/g.html
>
> Only someone with actual experience would know the answer to that question.
>
> Overall, do those yellowed polycarbonate headlight deoxidizing chemicals or
> 1600-grit polishing solutions actually work well enough to be
> indistinguishable from new?
>
> 1600-grit polishing solutions actually work well enough to be
> indistinguishable from new?
>
> If so, which ones do you have the best experience with on Toyota
> headlights?
Easy to repair,
> headlights?
Get a 3M headlight kit
Either remove the light units or tape around them to protect the body paint.
Wet down and wash the grit off the lights. Then use the coarse paper and
keep the lens wet and sand until the yellow and scratches are gone.
Switch to the finer paper and sand until the larger scratches are gone,
switch to the last grit and keep going until you get to the polishing step.
NOW to keep the lights looking like new for a long time, spray them with
automotive 2part clear (you can buy it in a spray can or have a bo0dy
shop give them a spritz).
This is how I deal with the yellowed/cruddy ones. They yellow due to the
UV from the sun, it kills the protective coating on the plastic. The 2
part clear when you're done will restore that plus it will seal the plastic.
I use bulk supplies but the 3M kit includes enough to do a couple sets
of lights and it's good stuff. DON'T use a high speed drill with it, you
can burn the surface of the light.
--
Steve W.
Danny D.
Jul 17, 2017, 11:31:28 PM7/17/17
to
On Mon, 17 Jul 2017 15:23:17 -0400, Tekkie® wrote:
> The original lenses had a UV protectant - I had a Toyota which did this
> also. I took it to Sams & had it done. It lasted until my wife wrecked the
> car... Less work for mother...
Since it's such a common problem, do you think the original UV protectant
> The original lenses had a UV protectant - I had a Toyota which did this
> also. I took it to Sams & had it done. It lasted until my wife wrecked the
> car... Less work for mother...
wasn't enough?
Danny D.
Jul 17, 2017, 11:31:28 PM7/17/17
to
On Mon, 17 Jul 2017 16:26:14 -0400, Steve W. wrote:
> NOW to keep the lights looking like new for a long time, spray them with
> automotive 2part clear (you can buy it in a spray can or have a bo0dy
> shop give them a spritz).
Thanks for that suggestion as this is the first suggestion, I think, for an
> NOW to keep the lights looking like new for a long time, spray them with
> automotive 2part clear (you can buy it in a spray can or have a bo0dy
> shop give them a spritz).
automotive "2-part clear" as the protective coating.
Searching, is this what you mean?
http://www.automotivetouchup.com/spray_paint_clearcoat.aspx
Or maybe this?
https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/duplicolor-clear-top-coat-bcl0125/99984738-P
Or, maybe more likely this?
https://www.automotivetouchup.com/urethane_clearcoat.aspx
> This is how I deal with the yellowed/cruddy ones. They yellow due to the
> UV from the sun, it kills the protective coating on the plastic.
> The 2
> part clear when you're done will restore that plus it will seal the plastic.
> I use bulk supplies but the 3M kit includes enough to do a couple sets
> of lights and it's good stuff. DON'T use a high speed drill with it, you
> can burn the surface of the light.
Fewer for Sylvania and Blue Magic.
Ed Pawlowski
Jul 18, 2017, 8:24:53 AM7/18/17
to
used various outdoor finishes with UV protection and after two years it
is still good aside from the uv.
Steve W.
Jul 18, 2017, 12:47:32 PM7/18/17
to
done hundreds of headlights using the sand, polish, clear coat method.
The UV, age and other chemicals just destroy the lights. The plastics
have gotten better but some brands just seem to turn to crap faster.
https://repaintsupply.com/spraymax-3680061-2k-urethane-clear-coat-aerosol-p3685.html
is a true 2 part clear in a spray can, if you don't have a spray gun.
or if you have a spray gun and know how to use it
https://www.automotivetouchup.com/urethane_clearcoat.aspx
would work as well.
--
Steve W.
Tekkie®
Jul 19, 2017, 2:28:55 PM7/19/17
to
Danny D. posted for all of us...
>
>
--
Tekkie
johnsnowkornar
Aug 28, 2017, 7:13:09 AM8/28/17
to
'Danny D.[_4_ Wrote:
> ;1277136']On Mon, 17 Jul 2017 15:23:17 -0400, TekkieŽ wrote:
> -
> > The original lenses had a UV protectant - I had a Toyota which did
> this
> > also. I took it to Sams & had it done. It lasted until my wife wrecked
> the
> > car... Less work for mother...-
> this
> > also. I took it to Sams & had it done. It lasted until my wife wrecked
> the
>
> Since it's such a common problem, do you think the original UV
> protectant
> wasn't enough?
I have utilized fluid sealants and my lights have since stayed in a
> Since it's such a common problem, do you think the original UV
> protectant
> wasn't enough?
decent shape. I'm continually searching for new items for the headlights
particularly, Results are blended for as little as possible secondary
selling headlights. You can visit my website through this ink: For fore
information,
http://automobiledecor.com/best-headlight-restoration-kit-reviews/
--
johnsnowkornar
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