89 beretta gt stalling
crebo
hello, i have an 89 beretta gt 2.8 v6. it was real rainy one day when it
stalled on me.
now, i start it it runs 15mins and then stalls. i let it set for 20mins
or so, start it and
it runs then stalls again i'm kinda stupid so i repaced the o2 sesor and
the map sensor
and that didn't fix it .... any ideas ?
Donald Szeliga
First did you change the fuel filter. I think the rain was just a
coincidence when it stalled. It dould be a fuel line ,a pump, it could
be a relay. Get a chiltons book from the library for your car or the
auto store. It will set you on the right track.
Doug Barnes <dwb@rell.
FUEL FILTER?-I doubt it. Probably coil/plug wire problem (I'd guess the
coil pack). Car runs fine when dry (RIGHT??), if so it's most likely an
ignition problem. If you do NOT know much about cars (especially
computer controlled ones), I'd suggest finding a mechanic-the money you
spent already probably would have fixed your problem,
--
Remove the NOSPAM to E-mail me. Tired of the MLM schemes.
SHI...@mailexcite.com
What you need to do is to bring the car to a reputable shop.I am a
professional auto technician (ASE master)and it sounds to me like either
an ignition system problem,or shorted fuel injectors (a common problem on
early 2.8L engines).There also may be a PROM update for your vehicle's
ECM.
In article <34D911F3...@texas.net>,
-------------------==== Posted via Deja News ====-----------------------
http://www.dejanews.com/ Search, Read, Post to Usenet
crebo
i just changed the filter and it still does the same thing !
crebo
i want to fix it myself ! i'm not in a hurry, and i don't mind "throwing" my
money away, i'm learning allot about the car and its kinda fun to work on !
how can i check for shorted fuel injectors ?
i have an electronics/computer science background so i'm preatty handy with a
multi-meter.
what would the PROM do to fix it ?
crebo
whether dry or wet, it does the same exact thing ! i could take it to a
mechanic, but i kinda enjoy tinkering with it and i'm learning allot ! i'm
really in no hurry to get it back on the road. i think i just need to figure
out if its fuel or spark related, that seems to be the first step ! thanks
for the help
Doug Barnes
> Donald Szeliga wrote:
> >
> > First did you change the fuel filter. I think the rain was just a
> > coincidence when it stalled. It dould be a fuel line ,a pump, it could
> > be a relay. Get a chiltons book from the library for your car or the
> > auto store. It will set you on the right track.
>
Jason Myers
crebo wrote:
>
> i want to fix it myself ! i'm not in a hurry, and i don't mind "throwing" my
> money away, i'm learning allot about the car and its kinda fun to work on !
> how can i check for shorted fuel injectors ?
> i have an electronics/computer science background so i'm preatty handy with a
> multi-meter.
> what would the PROM do to fix it ?
I have a 88 GT the PROM Update that he is talking about is only for 87
and 88 MFIs. I would tap into the O2 sensor output with your
multimeter and see how the voltage is swinging. If it is running rich
or lean, you can start from there. You may also want to use a spark
tester, and/or check your plugs.
If you are so interested about your beretta, I am a member of a list
serve known as Beretta Net. There are about 100 other members. If you
want to join, send mail to beretta...@lists.best.com with the
single body line subscribe. I'm trying to remember, so if that doesn't
work, mail me and I'll find you directions that I'm sure will work.
Jason Myers
88GT Z51 5spd
98JM...@KAMSC.k12.mi.us
JWVE...@nospam.uky.edu
Hi there!
I'd have to have more information on the conditions of the stall before
I told you what to look for. First, is it an automatic or manual
transmission? Does the stall require driving, or will it do it
idling in the driveway? Does the car idle strangely (up and
down, etc.?)
1) It could be electrical if it is weather-related. Check connectors
for cleanliness, tightness (you'd be surprised how many weather-pack
connectors get butchered by over-zealous mechanics who invariably
break the locking tab) etc.
2) GM has a history of the transmission torque converter clutch solonoid
sticking. The solonoid sticks, and the converter locks up, which has the
same effect as never pushing in the clutch in a manual transmission car.
The certified GM mechanic in the family suggests replacement rather than
repair (cleaning) of the solonoid as the cleaning doesn't seem to last.
3) I doubt a PROM swap will fix it -- did it always have this condition,
suggesting a calibration problem that a PROM change would fix?
4) If the idle is off, the idle may need adjustment. This is a simple
procedure and is covered in any good serivce manual. A faulty idle
may let the engine speed drop enough to stall.
5) Make sure any vacuum lines on the car are in good shape, especially
checking hard plastic lines where they terminate.
If your initial searches don't turn up much (and really, even if they do)
I'd hunt up the factory service manual. It will save hours of time
and greatly aid your efforts at diagnosis and repair. It also will
answer many questions you may have had about your car.
Good luck.
Jay Vessels
1982 Chevrolet S-10 Sport, 2.8 V6 TBI
1986 Chevrolet Caprice 2-door, 350 TPI
In article <34D911F3...@texas.net>
crebo
jay, thanks for the help ! here is what i replaced, some of it to try to fix
it, some of it
because it needed it anyway: 02 sensor, map sensor, fuel filter.... about a
month ago,
when it was running fine i replaced the plugs, plug wires and gave it an oil
change...
its manual shift, the stall will happen whether it is being driven or just
sitting and idling.
the car does not idle strangley. there seems to be a bit of a hickup about 2
mins before
it stalls the hickup happens every time, thats when i know its about to stall
! it really seems heat
related, the car runs great for the 15 mins it will run befor stalling. i
pulled the
coil module/coils. none of the coils are open and there is no sign of carbon
on any of them.
there is fuel pressure, i don't have a guage but i checked it by pushing on
the fuel valve and
fuel sprays out and hits the hood (i did that by accident by the way *laugh*)
and after it stalls,
there is still fuel iat the valve. the fuel pump seems to work fine, ie.
makes all the right noises.
even after the hickup, i can rev it and it runs great and then just
completely shuts down !
after all the research, i'm bettitng the coil module (the thing the 3 tower
coils plug into) is bad !
i'm going to get a spark tester and test for spark after the car stalls. this
seems the most
logical place to start. i bought a chiltons manual and it tells me how to
troubleshoot
that piece... oh, speaking of cracked tabs... now that you mention it, one of
the connectors to the coil module had the tab broken, but it was connected
tightly, and when i put the coils back in the car, i made sure it was tight,
although, it still doesn't have a locking tab ! there are no codes stored in
the computer and the SES light is not on. Is it spark or is it fuel, that
seems to be the question ! I agree on the PROM, this is a new problem, its
not something that ever happened before, the car is un-driveable, it is very
predictable in how it breaks, start it, let it idle for about 15 mins and it
stalls, let it set a bit, start it and it runs a it and stalls again. let me
know what you think, and thanks again for the help!
JWVE...@nospam.uky.edu
Hi there!
Judging from your symptoms, replace the coil pack. I have had similar
problems with motorcycles, and it was always one of two problems.
Either the coil was getting hot and breaking down, or (on a 1976
Kawasaki 900) a clip fastening two wires together was getting hot and
opening up. I doubt such fastening methods were used by GM, so I'd
bet on the coil pack. If you can get to the thing (I haven't worked on
a 2.8 V6 in a Beretta, as the Z-24 I had had a distributor) try spraying
some circuit coolant on it. That may tell you if the coil pack is bad.
Good luck on your hunt.
crebo
the only probem is there are 3 coil packs on this model each with two posts
that go to plug wires ! i bought a spark tester and after it stalls i get no
spark on any of them while cranking the engine ! the book tells me its the
"thing" that the coils plug into ! unfortuanantly that "thing" is 110.00
dollars ! thanks for the help, i'll buy that "thing" next pay day and see if
it works !
david kwan
Did the car start stalling after you replaced the plugs and wires?
Did you do an idle relearn after changing the plugs and wires?
Last year, I replaced the plug wires on my 89' Corsica w/2.8l
code W engine. I didn't remove the negative battery terminal
(like I was supposed to do) because I didn't want the computer
to forget its presets. I figured I would save some time this way.
I took the car out on the road at it ran great until it
warmed up. Once it was warmed up it would stall whenever the
car went into low idle. Very annoying in the middle of traffic!
When I finally got home, I let the engine cool down, put it
some new plugs, and then performed the idle relearn procedure.
Car ran fine after than.
--
David Kwan Email: dav...@ee.ubc.ca
DAVID ITZKOWITZ
subscribe
---
ş SLMR 2.1a ş Jet engine theory: suck, squeeze, bang, blow!
Ken Payne
david.i...@relaynet.org (DAVID ITZKOWITZ) penned:
>subscribe
>---
> Ч SLMR 2.1a Ч Jet engine theory: suck, squeeze, bang, blow!
Now I've seen it all.
http://www.ford-trucks.com - Ford Truck Enthusiasts
All years and models of Ford trucks discussed on our 4 mailing lists.
-Ken, Admin 1967 Ford F100, 390FE V8
To send me email: kpayne*spam-remove*@mindspring.com
Check out the free Ford Truck Enthusiasts Web Site/Email Lists.
Questions, answers, chat and Ford speak. 1600+ members and growing.
All years of F-series, E-series, Rangers, Broncos, Bronco IIs, Rancheros,
Explorers, Expeditions, Econolines and pre-F series are all covered.
that!