When the muffler bearings go, it's best to replace the entire muffler.
Putting new bearings in an existing muffler is not cost-effective, and
you still have an old muffler that may let go at any moment.
But if you insist, go to Midas. Tell 'em I sent you, and you'll get
a special rate <wink wink, nudge nudge>.
--
John Miller, N4VU Linux! Fayetteville
j...@n4vu.Atl.GA.US DoD #1942 (Atlanta)
j...@mindspring.com AMA #671301 GA, US
Joey
jle...@tcd.net
If its one thing I HATE, its someone knowingly spreading bad information on the web!
You certainly CAN replace muffler bearings (any good machine shop
can press them on for you.) To do it RIGHT however, you need to have
the muffler bores measured with a micrometer to see if the walls are
too thin (and in danger of burning or rusting through.) If they are,
the machine shop can press in muffler liners and viola! Good as new!.
(Make sure they don't use cast iorn liners though - they crack.
---
+-----------------------------------------------------------------------+
| Robert A. King | |
| Systems Software Engineer | |
| Kodak Health Imaging Systems | "I drank WHAT?!?" -- Socrates |
| | |
| ki...@khan.khis.com | |
+-----------------------------------------------------------------------+
| The opinions expressed here arn't even mine, much less my employer's! |
+-----------------------------------------------------------------------+
I though it would just vent excess backpressure through the PCV valve.
That's what its for, right?
You may want to check your hydraulic dipstick also. They are very prone to
catastrophe when your muffler bearings are bad. If your budget allows have them
install chrome muffler bearings upon replacement, they just look better. You may
want to have this all checked on the Sesmic Oscillator 9500, just to be sure.
WILDMAN
: >My muffler bearings have gone bad! How do I replace them?
Muffler bearings are a sure sign that either your:
1. Low on blinker fluid
or
2. In bad need of having your oil pump's magnetic bushings removed and replaced
with aluminum wing nuts.
You should check the hydrolic dipstick as well, those things are a pain to replace....
--
Greg Kras
On 11 Jul 1995, Joey Leslie wrote:
> My muffler bearings have gone bad! How do I replace them?
>
> Joey
> jle...@tcd.net
>
>
> My muffler bearings have gone bad! How do I replace them?
>
> Joey
> jle...@tcd.net
Muffler has bearings? What's that?
- ML -
+------------------------------------------------------------+
Disclaimer: These comments are the personal opinions of
the author, and have not been adopted, authorized,
ratified, or approved by JPL.
+------------------------------------------------------------+
EVERYONE knows mufflers have bearings! Sheesh, you must of taken the
little bus to school.
--Jeffrey
:)
Muffler bearings are a very complicated device used to allow exhaust gases
to escape without back pressure. The "newest" trend is to use crome ones
that you can see by looking deep inside the pipe (while it is running, I
might note). If ya look waaaaay in there (you might need a lighter and
some gas to see in there) you'll see some fins spinning on a enclosed
bearing which requires repacking _at least_ once every 3000 miles. I have
now replaced my bearings with those that are approved by the F.D.A.,
because I have heard that to much smoking can cause lung cancer. Well, if
you have anymore questions about muffler bearings feel free to ask anyone.
Tsk Tsk Tsk.
Joey
"Mother nature paints beautiful pictures,
and they all look better from a Harley"
First-- check the air in the spare tire to make sure it has at least 237 psi.
Anything short of this is UN-Acceptable. This has a direct relation to the
muffler bearing as they are interconnected via the turn signal fluid resevoir.
Second-- Did you forget to add the proper amount of DOT 3 brake fluid to your
wiper washer resevoir. Without this, the bearings will not be properly
lubricated.
Third -- No one has yet mentioned the most obvious, could it not be that your
flux capacitor is out of diatomic atomizing agents?? This is available at most
liquor or package stores. (In the event it is unavailable, prune juice works
fine.)
--
David Bogle
Intralox Engineering
Just a word of caution on blinker fluid - make sure you get fresh dehumidified metric
blinker fluid. Got a bad jar one time and it wiped out the crankshaft differential
baffle due to lack of inverse pressure out of the jar. After all, that's why they
sell it in those dark jars!
>or
>
>2. In bad need of having your oil pump's magnetic bushings removed and replaced
> with aluminum wing nuts.
The only way of correctly diagnosing magnetic bushing failure is with a flopitical
drive analyzer. I tried once with my flux capacitor transducer pressure relief
vortexer, but found I had the wrong electron oil. What a dummy! Everyone knows you
don't mix electron oil in the relief vortexer.
>You should check the hydrolic dipstick as well, those things are a pain to replace....
>
>
I would also have the exhaust linings checked as many others have stated. Just make
sure if they do replace the set, you have the perpendicular straightness stiffeners
welded in the system. This will make sure the backflow on the PCV valve is correct,
as Robert King stated.
As far as checking for proper torque, I've had good luck with my trusty old velocity
adapter wrench. It will tighten them to the point of before having to back them off
half a turn. Word of caution - don't use this on your cam toggle bolts. It may cause
your oil metering gauge to become uncalibrated and subject to premature failure.
>>My muffler bearings have gone bad! How do I replace them?
>You may want to check your hydraulic dipstick also. They are very prone to
>catastrophe when your muffler bearings are bad. If your budget allows have them
>install chrome muffler bearings upon replacement, they just look better. You may
>want to have this all checked on the Sesmic Oscillator 9500, just to be sure.
Now be careful here. I once thought I had the same problem, and was ready to
install new muffler bearings (dual exhaust by the way). It was just a chance
conversation with an old mechanic who suggested that I check the radiator
bearings. They were bad!!!! Given that they are constantly immersed in water,
I asked if I should use standard bearings, or chrome, and the general opinion
'in the trade' is that I should use bearings made from unobtanium. Another tip
I got from the same guy was on how to torque bolts correctly. He suggest that
all bolts shoule be tightened until they strip, and then backed off half a
turn. (just in case any inexperienced people are reading this, it IS a joke,
ok? Don't try this at home!)
Graeme
Proceed with caution. Other problems are often misdiagnosed as bad muffler bearings.
The symptoms are often traceable to the nut behind the wheel.
FEC
I probably shouldn't be talking about this here but we're all buddies right!? I have been
doing some work for the department of defence on magnetic levetation muffler bearings.
These are the latest thing in advance high speed muffler bearing technology. I have been
on the lookout for guys in black uniforms with yelow writing on their hats (MIDAS I think).
My wife said they have been lurcking aroud in the poison oak behind the shop. I guess they
didn't take much botany. More as developements come in.
Cheers,
Ken
I guess that's why they have me working on them now.
>The levitaion
>mechanism is not trustworthy. As for the men in little black uniforms, that must
>be the KGB. They are looking for a new way to kill people under 2 ft tall.
>
>Joey
Cheers,
Ken
I'm not sure, but the last time I had mine replaced, it cost me
$1874.37. It must be hard to do cuz parts was only $0.37.
Now I gots a problem wit my carborated fuel injection system.
Bill
p.s. I didnt even get my core credit.
>I probably shouldn't be talking about this here but we're all buddies right!? I have been
>doing some work for the department of defence on magnetic levetation muffler bearings.
>These are the latest thing in advance high speed muffler bearing technology. I have been
>on the lookout for guys in black uniforms with yelow writing on their hats (MIDAS I think).
>My wife said they have been lurcking aroud in the poison oak behind the shop. I guess they
>didn't take much botany. More as developements come in.
>
>Cheers,
>
>Ken
>
Ken,
Magnetic levitaion muffler bearings have been around for years. I tried them once and
whenever I started my car they shot out and killed small animals. The levitaion
Well Joey, obviously, you need SLYCK 50 Muffler bearings.
When your muffler gets old, combustion deposits can build-up on
your muffler bearings, robbing power, adding costly fiction and
where. This is a terrible thing to do to your muffler.
That's why you need SLYCK 50 Muffler bearings. These have a
atomically-thin Duppont PHONY coating on the bearing races that
virtually eliminates gas-guzzling and power-robbing friction.
And they only cost $465 for each bearing. Install once and they
will last "for as long as you own your car."
Remember, use SLYCK 50 Muffler bearings. Available on the shelves
of fine auto parts stores, next to CD-9 Instant Engine Overhaul in-a-can.
>Well Joey, obviously, you need SLYCK 50 Muffler bearings.........
Slick 50 is the best stuff on earth. Have ya ever tried it on cereal?
Cholesterol buildup the bloodsteep is just swept away (with some time on
the can)! And, of course, it repairs those scratched arteries and blood
vessels. I've never heard of their muffler bearings though.
Joey
> My muffler bearings have gone bad! How do I replace them?
>
> Joey
> jle...@tcd.net
Joey,
Muffler bearings can easily be replaced with the proper tools. I
recommend a left-handed monkey wrench and a reverse framastat puller.
Important!!! Remember always to rent a McMurrey flubber compressor to
hold the springs in tension. If that baby lets go, you could lose an eye.
Also...apply heat liberally to all infected areas, followed by a wopping
dollop of bag balm.
Good luck, Skipper!
Tod "grew up in my mom's tranny shop" T.
>While you're having all this work done, you might want to check the
>blinker fluid too, just to be on the safe side. Note: The left blinker
>has different fluid than the right blinker, so, don't mix them up.
Also note you will need a left handed screw driver to get the left blinker out
and a right handed (conventional) screw driver for the other side.
Scott.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Scott F. Asmus, | | | | | |
Product Release Coordinator |m|i|n|c|o|m
E-mail : sco...@tenmail.mincom.oz.au
Toys : Very Red VP Sedan - V6 3.8 T5 3.08 Single 2.5" UniFilter
Very Yellow XC Ute - V8 302C C4 2.77 Dual 2.5" 600 4BBL Holley
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
be sure also to replace your canniculating pins, and your frammistat -
esp. if it's a bilateral frammistat. [the -inverse- bilateral
frammistats are usually OK].
NB. most newer cars have a veeblefetzer instead of a frammistat...
and remember -- the plus-type screwdrivers are for -installing- screws;
the minus-type are for -removing- them. don't get them confused!
-adh
Talking about the RX7 Piston Rings;
I had to change'em once and ,dummi me, installed
them upside down.
This resulted in real bad performance while
driving forward and a stalled motor when I tried
to back-up.
At least it didnt damage Piston back-pull springs,
what could have easily happen' , the wrench in the shop
down the road said.
Fl...@terra.sirius.com
While you're at it, better check the piston-return-springs. If the muffler
bearings have gone bad, it's time to replace those nasty piston return
springs...it's a bitch of a job, but well worth the work.
K6> Remember, use SLYCK 50 Muffler bearings. Available on the shelves
K6> of fine auto parts stores, next to CD-9 Instant Engine Overhaul in-a-can.
Don't knock CD-9, I used some of that in my little 305... It works I tell you!
Its now a 350 with a high lift cam!!!
Mr.V-8
// The opinions expressed above are strictly the opinions of my fingers
\X/ and may not reflect the opinions of the other apendages.
>ok? Don't try this at home!)
>
I can't believe this post got this much response! Does anyone out
there have a left handed smoke shifter?
John
>
>
>
>
<small snip>
All this expertise and noone realizes the real PROBLEM!!
The piston return springs have gone bad and so the lack of backpressure
to the mufflers have seized the muffler bearings in place!! I advise as
below to stick at least one eye up the tailpipe and look for the bearing
that's stuck while the motor is running. Then take a knife with
about a quarter stick of butter and try to butter up the bearing and get
it loose.
Oh yeah and don't forget to replace the piston return springs with high
torsion resistant springs in about the 800-1000lbs range.
That otta do it!
> >
> >
> >: You may want to check your hydraulic dipstick also. They are very prone to
> >: catastrophe when your muffler bearings are bad. If your budget allows have
them
> >: install chrome muffler bearings upon replacement, they just look better.
You may
> >: want to have this all checked on the Sesmic Oscillator 9500, just to be
sure.
> >
> >
I'm telling you, it's not the muffler bearings! You need a new
head for the driver.