oxidation removal
jereme
the darker Maroon colors that may be more difficult to restore.
I bought the car in LA where it was exposed to their pollution and
ocean air for the pat 14 years.
This weekend I want to try to fix the paint. I am planning on using
Joy dish soap to strip it down then use Meguiars 1-3 and finish with
mothers wax. All of this will be done by hand. The oxidation isnt
terrible, but needs to be dealt with now before it gets that way. Are
there any products I should be using instead of what Im planning?
Any help greatly appreciated
Nate Nagel
If it's already oxidized you will need to use a power buffer to bring
the shine back. Takes a special touch to keep from burning through
the paint though. Another option, which I've seen used by some used
car dealers, is to wash the car with lots of water and some Bon Ami on
a sponge. It actually works fairly well, although it does kid of play
hell with the paint when you look up close; if you're not concerned
about aesthetics and just want to have it look good from 20 feet
that's a viable option. I've done it to old beaters before when I
just want to make them look less embarassing, I'm sure the purists
will jump on me for that but it's quick and easy and does make a
difference.
nate
Bob G
Assuming you wish to do this yourself and not pay a restoration shop to
"color Sand" and buff out the paint I would start with the Joy
dishwasher soap then go to a clay bar and hand rub the surface using
more joy as a lubricant... Maybe a little time consumming but definately
not an elbow breaker... (Mcguiars does make a clay bar btw) ..
Not going to get into which wax to use after you have removed the
oxidation I personally like Zaino's or Fisish First...and have a few
spare galloms of Mcguaires 26 in the shop also... The Clay bar will do
its thing to remove the ozidation...After that just keep a coat of
whatever wax "you" like on the car ...
Bob Griffiths
sdlomi
"jereme" <all-...@rocketmail.com> wrote in message
news:e69de3d5.03091...@posting.google.com...
Hi, Jereme. Know you said you were gonna do it yourself. Assuming you
were planning to use elbow grease inclines my thinking towards your not
being experienced with a buffer. If you can find some other job, which you
are pretty good at, I'd suggest earning whatever $ you can doing that task
to offset the price charged by letting a pro shop wet-sand, buff, compound,
and wax your car.
From then on, you can keep it looking sharp using a good brand of wax
you like. Really think you will be happier in the long run. BTW, you were
absolutely correct when assuming maroon may be one of the tougher colors to
work with.
I've done body work as well as detail work--saved many a paint
job--but it takes lots of practice & experience to handle a buffer. (Too
lightly buffed=swirls & streaks & a mess; too heavy for a mere second = burn
marks.) And the procedure I described above can make your car appear as a
new paint job for much less than the paint-price. Overall, you'd be better
pleased. Some jobs just can't be taken from the pro's. HTH & good luck.
sdlomi
Nathan Nagel
Funny you should mention that. I just did exactly what you describe to
my '62 Daytona this past weekend, and sho'nuff just as I was starting to
think "hey, this is actually working! I can do this!" I leaned a little
too hard with the foam pad and polish and left a nice little burn right
below the vent window on the passenger side door.
Fortunately, the guy that sprayed the car for me apparently wasn't lying
when he said he laid on over a gallon of clear. I managed to sand the
burn out (after sanding the panel once already!) re-rub and re-polish
the panel without hitting color. And it's still got a yards-deep
shine! Remind me to be very very nice to him. It's almost enough to
make me overlook the blue dirt in the clear of the (orangey-red) hood.
Ummm... yeah, almost.
Yes, before you ask, I did wait about 4 months before doing this. I
wasn't getting antsy, I just pushed too hard.
nate