1990 Corrado G60 Problems
Josh
developed a couple problems and the repairs are starting to add up and
nothings fixed it yet.
This is the car:
1990 Corrado G60 +/- 120k
TT Highflow cat & exhaust
K&N Air Filter insert
New plugs, wires, cap, rotor
cleaned t-body
The problem:
Wild idle, sometimes 1500 dropping down to 700 and after a minute or two
it'll stall if not revved. Cruising at 40-50 mph in 3rd or 4th gear it'll
buck like a first time 5spd driver. It'll stop bucking if I floor the gas,
or press in the clutch. When this happens there'll be a slight delay in the
throttle response as well.
It's been to a VW mechanic and had the fuel filters replaced, a wire to the
O2 sensor fixed and other misc. diagnostics run, but nothings helped yet.
Any ideas? We're approaching the $1000 mark and it's still running like
garbage.
Thanks,
Josh
T. Thorne
And the volume? Has it given any DTC's? Have they been fixed? Does the
problem occur if you just try to idle the car up in the range that it is
when you're driving on the highway and hold it? In other words, does it only
occur under load? And only in 3-4? Have you tried changing the fuel? I'd
maybe go to high octane if you're using low, or vice-versa. See what that
does. If you could borrow a used ECU and swap to test, I'd try that too.
Josh
"T. Thorne" <dont...@iamanidiot.com> wrote in message
news:ap1qk2$d48$1...@nntp-stjh-01-01.rogers.nf.net...
I think the fuel pressure was tested, but I'm not positive. The fuel octane
was changed right after he bought it, he ran it at regular for a few weeks
and had some ping, and then ran super (Mobil) and the ping disappeared. DTC?
Is that the OBD 1 code? I know they were read, and that's when the faulty o2
sensor came up, bad wire. With that fixed, it didn't help the problem.
The bucking problem is really bad on surface streets at about 40 or 50 mph.
It's apparent on the highway, but the gear / power ratio is much lower so it
doesn't violently shake, only slightly. Interesting thought, if we run the
RPM's up to 2 or 3 grand while we're under the hood, it will hold steady, so
I guess the bucking problem is only under load.
It's back in the shop today, had to stay the night. I'm starting to lose
faith in this guy... I've done allot of reading regarding the ISV and
cleaning it, or replacing it and so on. Also about a faulty o2 sensor, and
coolant sensors, and vacuum lines, and corroded ECU grounds, but I'm just a
computer jockey, no mechanic. If a VW specialist can't find it, what makes
me think I can? Ya know?
Thanks for the tips, we'll try some more diagnostics this weekend if the
mechanic doesn't fix it today.
J
Eduardo B.
the corrado ;-)
I bought a 1990 G60 trhee months ago and have spent about the same
amount in shitty things (cat. converter, leaking freeze plug, cog belt
replacement, engine mounts). Still need to fix some other stuff (ABS
light is on and speed control does not work), and I may confess I
almost gave up on it. But everytime I see it parket in my spot I
forget about all the bad times.
Dont have a clue about your problem though... Do you have any
performance upgrade on it? is the car running rich? Is supercharger
ok?
"Josh" <SPAMjd...@cadd-tech.com> wrote in message news:<43ct9.5366$3R2.173...@newssvr10.news.prodigy.com>...
T. Thorne
DTC= diagnostic trouble codes. OBD codes, if you will. If you don't have
your own code reader and you would like to check the codes, go to
http://www.planetfall.com/~jeff/obdii/
If you've got experience with electronics this ought to be easy. You can
breadboard the design if you'd prefer. Then you can download a copy of
VAG-COM (do a google search) and the free version will let you read codes.
I'd try another mechanic. Is this guy at a dealership? Sometimes those
dealer mechanics know a bit more, but sometimes they know a lot less, than
the "specialty shops". If you post your location, perhaps someone knows of
a good shop in your area.
If you can't find a better mechanic, I'd buy the Bentley manual if you
haven't already got one, and open to the electrical diagrams for the engine,
and test EVERYTHING. They also allow you to test ECU's, etc. DIY if the
mechanic can't fix it within a reasonable time. I'm sure everyone here will
try to help as best as possible.
Josh
> The ISV shouldn't affect normal driving. It only gives erratic idles.
> DTC= diagnostic trouble codes. OBD codes, if you will. If you don't have
> your own code reader and you would like to check the codes, go to
> http://www.planetfall.com/~jeff/obdii/
> If you've got experience with electronics this ought to be easy. You can
> breadboard the design if you'd prefer. Then you can download a copy of
> VAG-COM (do a google search) and the free version will let you read codes.
A friend of mine has a handheld scanner with all the software, that's
usually the rout I use on my cars (obd II)
> I'd try another mechanic. Is this guy at a dealership? Sometimes those
> dealer mechanics know a bit more, but sometimes they know a lot less, than
> the "specialty shops". If you post your location, perhaps someone knows
of
> a good shop in your area.
He's a specialty VW mechanic. Bob's VW in West Springfield, MA.
> If you can't find a better mechanic, I'd buy the Bentley manual if you
> haven't already got one, and open to the electrical diagrams for the
engine,
> and test EVERYTHING. They also allow you to test ECU's, etc. DIY if the
> mechanic can't fix it within a reasonable time. I'm sure everyone here
will
> try to help as best as possible.
>
It's my brother in-laws car, so we'll try again this weekend to see if we
can come up with anything. He doesn't have the manual and doesn't want to
buy one as he's fixing the little quirks so he can sell the car. He figured
a couple hours at the shop plus some parts and he'd be set. Not so. I
haven't talked to him today, the car was at the shop all day yesterday, so
maybe they've come up with something.
Thanks again,
Josh
G 60
i've had/have all the problems described in previous posts.
wild idle:
first things i'd do.. clean the isv. take up off, hold it motor end up (so
you don't soak the motor) and give it a few minutes of TLC with brake
cleaner. let it drain out and dry a bit. put it back and start the car up,
might be rough at first as the brake cleaner residue burns off.
the other big thing for idle is vacuum leaks. vacuum lines are the little
pencil sized tubes. in my car the air box was eliminated when the k&n was
put in, so the vac line to the air box was just left spitting air. i plugged
that up and it solved the last of my bad idle (i had already fixed all
wiring issues, fuse issues, relay issues, cleaned the isv thoroughly,
installed oem plugs and wires, cleaned the distributor and cap and tested
the coil). i sit at about 850rpm now with a little bub bub bub from my cam.
now i'll give you a few priceless pieces of advice that you may or may not
have already heard:
a) very slim chance you'll make any extra money by fixing the car.. by the
sounds of it, you guys don't know enough about the G60 setup. you'd be
better off just selling it i think. you could hack away at it until
everything's fixed, but for some owner's that *never* happens.. the problems
keep building, the costs keep building, there is a nagging glitch you can't
find.. etc
b) there's a website around called "jason's corrado page" or something like
that. its a white page with blue links. at this page there is a G60 engine
tune-up article. EXCELLENT article. sure you could find it if you looked.
c) CCA website and CCA list on yahoogroups.
d) the key to smooth running in a G60, among other things, is NO vacuum
leaks, NO electrical problems, strong battery and charging system
(everything starts to fail and run shitty when the battery has low
juice..that might be your 3rd and 4th problem, dunno.. sounds just like the
problem i had, mine was a bad fuse and a bad battery ground). spend a good
day going through the engine and cleaning everything. taking off every wire
connector and cleaning it, checking the wires for damage. all the wires
under the battery. CHECK ALL GROUNDS especially to the battery, and the
lines to and from the alternator to the battery. check the alternator. check
and double check all fuses, relays, and wiring under the dash (i have
corrosion on one of my fuse box connections at the back. if it gets loose i
get sporatic turn signals.. but what if another, more crucial, connector
were corroded?..) check every single vacuum line and tee for leaks (run the
car, you might be able to feel or hear them if you get close enough). when
the car is running, try disconnecting the blue wire connector in front of
the engine.. this is the blue coolant temperature sensor, there is a black
one next to it just like it. if you disconnect it and right away the car
runs way worse.. stalls, etc.. then your sensor is fine. if you disconnect
it and nothing changes.. oh man.. CHANGE YOUR SENSOR. this is huge. might be
all your problems right there. you already covered o2, so i won't. but i
will say, if the sensor is old.. replace it for just for shits. it will save
you a lot of hassle if it turns out to be bad. just get a cheap 3-wire one.
i heard you can use sensors from 5L stangs.. won't be the best thing.. but
it'll be better than a busted one.
e) 99% of the guys you go to won't know JACK ALL about your car. don't
expect to find a mechanic with his head outside of his anus. instead, expect
not to find one and to be amazed if you stumble upon a guy that knows up
from down in a G60. i've got a friend, worked at local vdub dealer over 15
years.. all through the corrado and rocco days. he's THE top mechanic at the
dealership and the best guy i've found to work on my car and i still know
twice as much as he does when it comes to diagnosing G60 problems. all it
takes is reading, testing, fixing.. hackin away at the car until the
problems go away. its all online, just keep reading and asking questions.
i'm just like you, no mechanical experience.. just a little hard work and
research.
good luck... GOOD LUCK, and good luck.
lanny
90G60
ps- want to sell me the car when you're finished spiffin it up??! : P
"Josh" <SPAMjd...@cadd-tech.com> wrote in message
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