Help. CV joint or bearing. Whomp whomp sound on acceleration.
tonyw
Have read posts on CV joints and front wheel bearings symptoms. I'm
unsure if I have a bearing or CV joint problem.
Symptoms:
- on acceleration uphill get a whomp whomp sound from front left
corner. It really sounds like a separated tire tread or other tire
defect. But the tire shop said there's nothing wrong with the tire
which are relatively new (10,000 km). I've rotated the tires with no
change in sound effect. If I stop accelerating uphill and continue at
steady speed, the sound disappears. The harder the acceleration
uphill, the more evident the whomp whomp sound. I hear it but wife
can't hear it, so it's subtle.
- The tire shop pointed out looseness in the front wheel assembly if
tire is pulled from side to side which leads me to suspect the
bearing. Right side tire/wheel not as loose.
- Can't reproduce the whomp whomp sound accelerating downhill. Sound
not evident when accelerating on level ground. Just on uphill pull.
- There are not the clicking sounds when turning associated with CV
joint problems.
- Left outside CV boot is torn and I need to replace. I'm considering
replacing the outer CV joint at same time rather than just repacking
with grease. Current CV joint has about 170,000 km on it (last
replaced 1993).
I'd appreciate any advice on the problem.
Thanks,
-Tony
tonyw
Golf. 250,000 km. Auto tranny.
-Tony
bgho...@hotmail.com
bgho...@hotmail.com
>
> - Show quoted text -
none2u
<bgho...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:1182478616.7...@e9g2000prf.googlegroups.com...
>>>> means change the CV. Its prudent to change the wheel bearing , because
>>>> it has play. According to you, As the axle has to come out either way.
Jim Behning
wrote:
It depends on which way you pull as to what you are diagnosing. You
might feel a loose wheel bearing one direction. You might also be
feeling worn strut bearings or mountings, worn ball joints, worn tie
rods or actual worn bearings. If the tire shop had their hand on 9 and
3 when they felt looseness I vote for tie rods. 12 and 6 is more
likely to show wor bearings. That said I have seen some Vws with over
200,000 miles an no signs of bearing issues.
Ears
I'm a Movie
rods, struts, coil springs, tie rod boots, control arm bushings, and
various related nuts and bolts on Both sides of my 81 rabbit. Mine
was making a similar noise (and had similar mileage) and I figured
that I might as well renew everything while I had it disassembled.
Since I did the work myself, it really didn't cost that much,
especially considering that the diesel should have another 200000
miles of life. I followed the instructions in my Bently manual. If
you are interested, I could tally up the parts cost so you know what
to expect. Mine drives like a new one now. I did decide not to
replace the CV joint as it passed my inspection. I did clean it and
relubricate it and cover it with a new boot. I think that my noise
was caused by the bearings. I do think that one of your symtoms
(noise linked to acceleration) points to the CVJ. My whomp whomp
sound only varied with speed and would continue even when the car was
in neutral.
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tonyw
Thanks for the tips. On the wheel bearings, did you change them
yourself or bring it to a shop for their press? Bentley says use a
press which I don't have access to, so will see a local shop will do
it for me if I bring them the wheel bearing housing and new bearing.
. I bought the parts today, $146 CDN for wheel bearing, new outer CV
joint (not a rebuilt), and new boot for inner CV joint which I figure
I might as well replace at the same time. Hmm, wonder if it's the
inner CV joint? Do those fail much?
I'm hoping I can preserve the wheel alignment even though I have to
take the bearing housing off he struts and re-attach.
On the postings about pulling on the tire at 3 and 9 or 12 and 6
O'clock, I pulled on the top of the tire, 12 O'clock, and could feel
some looseness not evident on the right side. Other than the whomp
whomp, the car drives nice and tight in the front end.
Thanks all,
-Tony
On Jun 22, 7:15 pm, I'm a Movie <c..osb.o..rnAT.ep.ix.n.et> wrote:
> I just completed replacing the wheel bearings, hubs, ball joints, tie
> rods, struts, coil springs, tie rod boots, control arm bushings, and
> various related nuts and bolts on Both sides of my 81 rabbit. Mine
> was making a similar noise (and had similar mileage) and I figured
> that I might as well renew everything while I had it disassembled.
> Since I did the work myself, it really didn't cost that much,
> especially considering that the diesel should have another 200000
> miles of life. I followed the instructions in my Bently manual. If
> you are interested, I could tally up the parts cost so you know what
> to expect. Mine drives like a new one now. I did decide not to
> replace the CV joint as it passed my inspection. I did clean it and
> relubricate it and cover it with a new boot. I think that my noise
> was caused by the bearings. I do think that one of your symtoms
> (noise linked to acceleration) points to the CVJ. My whomp whomp
> sound only varied with speed and would continue even when the car was
> in neutral.
>
> <jimbehn...@doesthisblockpork.mindspring.com> wrote:
> >On Fri, 22 Jun 2007 00:41:03 -0400, "none2u" <non...@notrealatall.bye>
> >wrote:
>
I'm a Movie
>Hi,
> Thanks for the tips. On the wheel bearings, did you change them
>yourself or bring it to a shop for their press?
I purchased a pre assembled hub/bearing unit from PartsPlaceInc. All
I had to do was basically bolt it on. Oh and I did have to cut a slot
into the old splash sheild to fit it on the new hub assembly as the
new one doesn't come with one.
> Bentley says use a
>press which I don't have access to, so will see a local shop will do
>it for me if I bring them the wheel bearing housing and new bearing.
>
>. I bought the parts today, $146 CDN for wheel bearing, new outer CV
>joint (not a rebuilt), and new boot for inner CV joint which I figure
>I might as well replace at the same time. Hmm, wonder if it's the
>inner CV joint? Do those fail much?
>
> I'm hoping I can preserve the wheel alignment even though I have to
>take the bearing housing off he struts and re-attach.
I hope that your eccentric bolts are in better shape than mine. I had
to replace mine ($17 each US)
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dave AKA vwdoc1
wheel alignment is good to do anyway afterwards! ;-)
I usually guess which wheel bearing is bad and then double check it by
removing all components off of the hub and then spin it by hand to confirm
it is bad.
--
later,
dave
(One out of many daves)
"Madesio" <em...@invalid.address> wrote in message
news:h66s73tigeatqcvsd...@4ax.com...
> On Fri, 22 Jun 2007 20:44:49 -0700, tonyw <tony...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> Thanks for the tips. On the wheel bearings, did you change them
>>yourself or bring it to a shop for their press? Bentley says use a
>>press which I don't have access to, so will see a local shop will do
>>it for me if I bring them the wheel bearing housing and new bearing.
>
> You could disassemble the hub assembly, take it down to a machine shop
> and have them press the bearing(s) for you.
>
>>. I bought the parts today, $146 CDN for wheel bearing, new outer CV
>>joint (not a rebuilt), and new boot for inner CV joint which I figure
>>I might as well replace at the same time. Hmm, wonder if it's the
>>inner CV joint? Do those fail much?
>
> You can detect bad front wheel bearings very easily simply by putting
> the vehicle into gear with the tires off the ground while you *listen*
> for crackling type noises where the CV joint enters the hub. You can
> listen using a mechanic's stethoscope or even a long screwdriver while
> being cautious of the moving parts. Same goes for the rear, just spin
> the wheels by hand.
>
>> I'm hoping I can preserve the wheel alignment even though I have to
>>take the bearing housing off he struts and re-attach.
>
> Depending on how anal you are about your personal vehicle's alignment,
> you *could* get way with marking or notching the prior installed
> locations and re-installing in the exact same position. Technically
> speaking though, once removed, your prior alignment adjustments will
> be thrown off slightly regardless of how straight your eyes tell you
> your suspension is.