hand brake cable broke, OK to still drive?
hosifer
hand brake (too hard?) and one of the cables broke. Now I've read how
to replace it and I'm sure I can do the work with replacement parts
yet to order (and possibly replace rear brake shoes, drums,etc.). But
my main question is: can I still drive with the hand brake cable
broken and/or disassembled? It is a daily driver (5-10 miles per day)
and hope not to have it out of commission. Thanks in advance!!!
Speedy Jim
Yeah. In general, the broken cable won't foul anything.
Go ahead and order parts. I would replace the 35 year-old
wheel cyls and the rubber brake hoses (rear at least) too.
Your biggest obstacle will be the 36mm axle nuts.
They are torqued at a minimum of 250 Ft-Lbs!
You won't get them off with a 1/2" drive breaker bar.
There are various specialty torque multipliers out there,
or get a 3/4" drive socket and a 4 foot long cheater bar.
See:
http://www.vw-resource.com/table.html
for helpful articles.
Speedy Jim
http://www.nls.net/mp/volks/
Jim Ed
It should still hold the rear wheel on one side.
Get it fixed as soon as you can.
Here are some links you might want to view:
---------------------------
TORQUE TOOL FLYWHEEL & DRUM PLATE
https://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=ACC-C10-7036
----------------------
BUG-ME DVD VERSION - VOL-4 BRAKE MAINTENANCE
https://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=ACC-C10-9603-DVD
---------------------
It is not a Super Beetle right?
https://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=C12-5585-13
https://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=C12-5585-15
------------------------
http://www.aircooled.net/new-bin/catsearch.php?categoryid=BWL&cmd=list&parent2=BW&perpage=
http://www.aircooled.net/new-bin/viewproductdetail.php?keyword2=BWL0001&cartid=
-----------------------
Aircooled Vw Bleeder 0104
Works on most Air Cooled VWs, including Bugs, Buses, and Square Backs
and Fast Backs. This kit includes adapter 1104. All bleeders come
with a full 1 year warranty. Appplication notes:
1104 - 27mm -- bug after 1963, bus after 1967
http://www.motiveproducts.com/
Note: I use this power bleeder since I do nearly everything by myself.
--------------------------------
Jan Andersson
Yes you can drive it. When you park it, you have to leave it in gear so
it doesn't roll.
John
will let other side slack right off. I,ve got this 6 foot length of gas pipe
and still a good tug needed.
John
Jan Andersson
What balance beam?
P.J.Berg
Jan Andersson
> On Thu, 16 Jul 2009 13:26:35 +0200, Jan Andersson
> <bug...@spamtrap.rocketmail.com> wrote:
>
>> John wrote:
>>> Hand brake may not work. Balance beam on handbrake handle ( under the
>>> boot) will let other side slack right off. I,ve got this 6 foot
>>> length of gas pipe and still a good tug needed.
>>> John
>>
>>
>> What balance beam?
>
> Between the two cables.
>
> J.
Ah, gotcha :) DAMN it's been too long.
georgewk
Jan Andersson <bug...@spamtrap.rocketmail.com> wrote:
the older ones had fixed points on the handle where the adjustment was
made.
It pulled each cable independently but made equal adjustment difficult
hence the "balance" plate.
Nice thing is that you could up-date the thing.
and , everyone knows not to let the adjustment get too far out. Pull the
handle too high and it all falls apart.
BTW. I just up-graded my Lever with a foam grip from a bicycle handle bar
grip set. very nice!
good luck.
g.
OllieW
> In article <7c8h35F2713f...@mid.individual.net>,
I had no e-brake in my 66 bug for years. Just carried a pair of
chocks under the hood in case I had to park on a hill.
georgewk
<d19bf57d-26fa-4723...@k30g2000yqf.googlegroups.com>,
OllieW <waymir...@gmail.com> wrote:
> On Jul 19, 9:59�ｿｽpm, georgewk <georg...@humboldt1.com> wrote:
> > In article <7c8h35F2713f...@mid.individual.net>,
> > �ｿｽJan Andersson <bugf...@spamtrap.rocketmail.com> wrote:
> >
> > > John wrote:
> > > > Hand brake may not work. Balance beam on handbrake handle ( under the
> > > > boot)
> > > > will let other side slack right off. I,ve got this 6 foot length of gas
> > > > pipe
> > > > and still a good tug needed.
> > > > �ｿｽ �ｿｽ �ｿｽ �ｿｽ �ｿｽ �ｿｽ �ｿｽ John
> >
> > > What balance beam?
> >
> > the older ones had fixed points on the handle where the adjustment was
> > made.
> > It pulled each cable independently but made equal adjustment difficult
> > hence the "balance" plate.
> > Nice thing is that you could up-date the thing.
> > and , everyone knows not to let the adjustment get too far out. Pull the
> > handle too high and it all falls apart.
> > BTW. I just up-graded my Lever with a foam grip from a bicycle handle bar
> > grip set. �ｿｽvery nice!
> > good luck.
> > g.
>
> I had no e-brake in my 66 bug for years. Just carried a pair of
> chocks under the hood in case I had to park on a hill.
an old trick I had with those, If when pulling the e-brake on quickly
the car rocks side-wises , it means one side is tighter than the other.
that's why the improved it with the rocker plate under the adjustment
nuts.
thought you might like to know.
Shag
Sure... you can drive it without a working parking brake... *ominous
music*
I used to do that... *louder ominous music*
Joey Tribiani
"Shag" <trav...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:2f050823-22ce-4d61...@33g2000vbe.googlegroups.com...
..........
what made you realize it isn't the best idea? LOL
hosifer
explained that the shoes may have fallen in, away from the drum, and
now there is too much travel in the brake system to cause the shoes to
apply any considerable pressure to the drums, front or back. There
just isn't enough travel in the entire system. Of course I found that
out a couple miles from home and noticed that the brakes didn't really
do any stopping, just slowing. Got home and parked it as soon as I
could. And planned ahead for stops, traffic, etc. Kinda scary. Got the
tools now to crack of the big nuts and we'll see what we find. Thanks
for the help...
Jan Andersson
That could happen if the rear drums were adjusted wrong. You are
supposed to release the handbrake cables first, then adjust the shoes.
If you don't release the handbrake first, the adjustment will be false
as the handbrake is keeping the shoes closer to the drums than what they
really would be. Therefore a broken handbrake cable will let the shoe go
back to fully seated, and further away from the drum.
Just try readjusting the drums first, see if that helps. Set the shoes
so you can just hear them slightly scrape and drag as you turn the drum.
dave AKA vwdoc1
Check for hydraulic leaks while you are in there. Clean off the wheel brake
cylinders, pull back the boots and look for leaks.
(Some use a garden hose and flush off debris in a bucket)
Check adjusters to see if they are correctly oriented and easy to adjust.
Check the thickness of the shoes' rubbing material and make sure the
handbrake levers on the shoes are moving freely. Replace the handbrake
cables.
Reinstall the drums and adjust the shoes tight and check the brake pedal.
It should be very high and now you can adjust the shoes like Jan said. ;-)
Oh make sure you have some freeplay in the Brake Master Pushrod too!
Have fun safely driving the Beetle again!
JMHO
--
later,
(One out of many daves)
"Jan Andersson" <bug...@spamtrap.rocketmail.com> wrote in message
news:7dvsf7F...@mid.individual.net...
Nate Nagel
in fact, that could be *why* the handbrake cable broke...
to add to Jan's post, the handbrake should be released *and the cables
slightly slack* (de-adjust if necessary) before adjusting the brake
shoes. Then when done, readjust parking brake as necessary, but the
cables should be ever so slightly slack when the parking brake is fully
released when you're all done. If you do it right, this won't be
necessary in the future...
nate
--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel
Jan Andersson
That's what I said :)
Nate Nagel
I know, I was just clarifying. someone might have interpreted that if
the lever is released all the way that that's good enough.