Air Scoops on a Bus???
Jerry & Melissa Jess
early bus really work?? by that i mean has anyone run any temperature
tests that show there is More air coming in due to the scoops--yet even
if there is---does it really Cool the motor??
Phoenix weather, with 4 1/2 months of 100+ degrees--is the
question--What is the answer?? Not concerned that they are ugly to
some--Do They Work??
Mark Held
anything. The reason is that your fan is sucking air through the vents into
the engine compartment, then through the fan and over the engine. No matter
how much air you're forcing through the vents with scoops, it will not cause
your fan to run faster or suck more air volume. But that's my theory. I
suppose if someone ran some temperature tests that would provide a better
answer.
Jerry & Melissa Jess <vws...@uswest.net> wrote in message
news:3748D9E6...@uswest.net...
Braukuche
>early bus really work?? by that i mean has anyone run any temperature
>tests that show there is More air coming in due to the scoops--yet even
>if there is---does it really Cool the motor??
I'd assume that after almost 20 odd years of production VW would have added
them if they worked. I know, on the later ones they did, sort of, but then the
vents were also relocated higher up on the body. Maybe the flared vents were
needed to increase air flow.
--Dan E
Jim N.
> I'd assume that after almost 20 odd years of production VW would have added
> them if they worked.
I know I am going to get sh*t for this but here goes anyway. The VW
engineers who designed the cars did they "best" they could with the
technology they had at the time. I see so many post stating that if
they didn't do it, it should not ever be changed. If that was the case,
and they did build everything as best as it could possibly ever be then
I would have to agree. But, they could only do what they had the
ability at the time to come up with at the time.
This doen't mean that their designs can't be improved upon. If we all
went on that theory, we might all be driving an Edsel instead of VW's.
If they knew all then, why do engine made today make so much power and
be so fuel efficient, and the VW motor was really neither.
They did the best they could, but they can all be improved in some way.
--
Jim
69 Bug(lowered)
72 Westy?(Buster)
Nothing is foolproof to a sufficiently talented fool.
Jim O'Malley
'58-'60 Edsel Ranger to that of the late-'70s Pontiac. The grille
especially displays the evolution of the horse-collar.
--
|:|--------|:| Jim O'Malley / '74 SB / Amarillo TX
|:| \/ |:| Volkswagens in Film and Video
|:| \/\/ |:| and the VW/F/V Bookshelf (an Amazon.com associate)
|:|--------|:| http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Downs/7864/
(snip)
> This doen't mean that their designs can't be improved upon. If we all
> went on that theory, we might all be driving an Edsel instead of VW's.
(snip)
Lee Jackson
best way for you to have your engine running cooler would be to fit a deeper
oil sump. That is, the more oil you have in circulation allows the engine to
run cooler.
Leeroy.
Jerry & Melissa Jess wrote in message <3748D9E6...@uswest.net>...
>OK---let me start something here---do those fiber-glass air scoops on an
>early bus really work?? by that i mean has anyone run any temperature
>tests that show there is More air coming in due to the scoops--yet even
>if there is---does it really Cool the motor??
jeanlh
"Jim N." wrote:
> Braukuche wrote:
> > I'd assume that after almost 20 odd years of production VW would have added
> > them if they worked.
>
> I know I am going to get sh*t for this but here goes anyway. The VW
> engineers who designed the cars did they "best" they could with the
> technology they had at the time. I see so many post stating that if
> they didn't do it, it should not ever be changed. If that was the case,
> and they did build everything as best as it could possibly ever be then
> I would have to agree. But, they could only do what they had the
> ability at the time to come up with at the time.
>
--snip--
>
> They did the best they could, but they can all be improved in some way.
>
> --
> Jim
> 69 Bug(lowered)
> 72 Westy?(Buster)
>
> Nothing is foolproof to a sufficiently talented fool.
No $#!+ from me. I fully agree!
Jammin' Jeff
too bloody many
PS: "Nothing is foolproof to a sufficiently talented fool." ......Oh, so true!
eaallred
take longer to actually get hot.
deep sumps are made to help keep oil in the sump so you dont starve your
engine while cornering, taking off real fast, or going above 6 grand on
the tach.
Eric Allred
Alvin NG Boon Kim
"Jim N." wrote:
> Braukuche wrote:
> > I'd assume that after almost 20 odd years of production VW would have added
> > them if they worked.
>
> I know I am going to get sh*t for this but here goes anyway. (snip...
> snip...snip)If they knew all then, why do engine made today make so much power
> and be so fuel efficient, and the VW motor was really neither.
I'm no expert, but I do read car spec every now and then and I have noticed
that modern-day cars run higher compression ratios than our VWs. About 9-10 vs.
our 7. I think this gives more power and at the same time uses less fuel as 9-10
part is now air vs. our 7 parts air to 1 part fuel.
I am thinking that if all those high C.R are brought down, they would produce
about as much power our VWs. Am I right here, guys?
> They did the best they could, but they can all be improved in some way.
That I agree with you, Buddy. But knowing what is better is the difficult
part. :-)
Alvin
"... Mummy, will you take me to watch Star Wars?..."
--
___
/___\ My Smurfette
(o\ | /o) is a '70 Beetle.
U-----U Boy, does she Fweem!
Timothy Nolan
I don't own a bus but in an issue of Vwtrends the covered this topic.. and
the answer is a big NO.. the scoops while at high speed may cool a little a
very tiny bit more.. but sitting in traffic they only limit the air flow and
will cause the motor to over heat..
if you want the issue number lemme know i'll go dig out the magazine..
Tim
'71 superbeetle
joe locicero
Best to see if air wants to go into a scoop at that location on the Type 2
Body.
Use the simple tuft test. It's just a bunch of yarn tassles taped in a
square pattern
4 inches apart in the area of question. Use some bright yarn 12 inches long,
folded
in half and taped down on the folded end. Then have someone drive the Bus
and
observe as you drive along side with or without a camcorder. The yarn
should
lay flat on the surface ahead of the proposed entry of the scoop for the
best results.
Check the oil and/or the cylinder head temp before and after if you decide
to
install the scoops.
Joe
Oregon Performance Products
Http://www.spiretech.com/~opshroud
DR ruble
>that modern-day cars run higher compression ratios than our VWs. About 9-10
>vs.
>our 7. I think this gives more power and at the same time uses less fuel as
>9-10
>part is now air vs. our 7 parts air to 1 part fuel.
>
> I am thinking that if all those high C.R are brought down, they would
>produce
>about as much power our VWs. Am I right here, guys?
>
>> They did the best they could, but they can all be improved in some way.
>
> That I agree with you, Buddy. But knowing what is better is the difficult
>part. :-)
>
>Alvin
>"... Mummy, will you take me to watch Star Wars?..."
>--
> ___
> /___\ My Smurfette
> (o\ | /o) is a '70 Beetle.
> U-----U Boy, does she Fweem!
>
compression ratios .The air fuel ratio expressed as parts of air to fuel runs
about 14.7 ideally some lean mixtures run as much as 19 or more to one and
richer mixtures for maximum power can be in the range of 12.5 to 1 or so The
compression ratio is an entirely different matter whereby the mixture of
air/fuel is squeezed (or compressed from bottom of the stroke to the top if you
take a cylinder of ten inch length and move apiston up to where only one inch
is still open you have aratio of ten to one now if you put acap or head on in
the cylinder to seal the mixture inside the area contained assuming no
combustion area other than the one tenth original area you would have a10 to 1
compression ratio the reason for the use of higher compression ratios on
modern engines is due to new electronic fuel injection systems that operate on
a much more precise air fuel ratio than acarburetor is able to achieve c
ouplred with the advent of more modern combustion chamber / cylinder head
technology . Also the vw engine being aircooled the headisapation properties
are far less than a watercooled design so the lower c/r is needed to keep the
cylinder head temprature down to avoid the engine burning itself up There is
only so much that can be done with 65 year old technology dr
>
>
>
>
>
James Lutz
Measure the with & length of the stock grills on your early Type2 & multiply
to get your "Square inches" of air intake space.
Then measure the scoop openings width,As you can clearly see all these
things do is cover up the hole!About 2/3 of the holes to be exact!
The front of a VW bus is so flat that it litteraly throws the air out away
from the intakes,the engines cooling fan must actually suck the air into the
engine,The best way to assure a cool running VW is to SET THE COMPRESSION AT
NO MORE THAN 7.0:1 with 92 octane fuel!
If your running a late model doghouse cooling fan on an early model bus you
will need to add aditional air into the engine compartment I personally weld
a 4" Dryer duct to the front tinn by the cooling fan & run dryer duct to the
front of the transaxle or run a duct to the front of the bus!
Jerry & Melissa Jess wrote in message <3748D9E6...@uswest.net>...
david.w....@gmail.com
> OK---let me start something here---do those fiber-glass air scoops on an
> early bus really work?? by that i mean has anyone run any temperature
> tests that show there is More air coming in due to the scoops--yet even
> if there is---does it really Cool the motor??
> Phoenix weather, with 4 1/2 months of 100+ degrees--is the
> question--What is the answer?? Not concerned that they are ugly to
> some--Do They Work??
anytime you increase the pressure of the air coming into the fan ...or descrease the resistance to airflow coming into the fan ... the volume of air from the fan ... and efficiency of the fan ....at any given speed will increase ... descreasing temps and improving cooling.
cut out the area under the scoops totally ...to further descrease air resistance incoming to the system.
you should also remove the thermal control bellows and the air control flaps ...to further improve air flow for hot areas ...
and
add an external oil resevoir and external oil cooler and pump ...and filter ...turning your vw into an oil cooled vehicle as much as air cooled... do all that ... and you can run the sahara at 140f ... yes ...i have done it
good luck
other...@sdf.lonestar.org
fine, for the rest of us, you need those bellows. Do not remove.
.
--
other...@sdf.org
SDF Public Access UNIX System - https://sdf.org