Color sanding/buffing single stage paintq
Braukuche
stage acrylic urethane? On the autobody forum one guys says its ok, another
says it is not, and they both sound like they know what they are talking about.
I still have a few rough spots on the Ghia that I need to work out, but this
one guy said if you color sand or buff the paint it will loose its luster and
will constantly need to be buffed to get back it's shine. Any opinions on this?
--Dan E
MLCC1549
should be fine to color sand and buff out.i use a lot of OMNI single stage and
i have no problems color sanding it ouy to get a nice showroom look.
mike from NC
mike in north carolina
Oldman
have applied a ss metallic, you do NOT want to sand or compound out the
finish. Doing so will cut through the cc, into the paint and change the lay
of the metallics. If that happens, the only thing you can do to fix the
mottled appearance is to repaint.
How about trying an experiment. Sand and buff a small area of your paint.
See what happens. If all else fails, you can always rough up the entire car
with 1000 grit and apply a coat of cc over the top. Again, this will NOT
work if you have a metallic.
This is a typical problem with ss. There is little room for error when the
paint is applied. I use ss for areas like firewalls and such where things
aren't so critical. Areas where a small run, dust nibs, etc. aren't a big
deal and I want to get the job done quick.
For those that are planning to do their own paint job, consider a bc/cc
(basecoat/clearcoat) combination since it gives a much larger fudge factor.
Lay on the bc and if it looks good, apply 3 coats of cc. Plan on sanding
and buffing out the finish.
Some people apply 2 coats of cc, sand with 1000, and then apply a 3rd coat
of cc. Another trick is to apply the ss, then apply a 50% -50% mix of ss
and cc, and then apply 1 or 2 coats of cc. Others apply the ss and just
plan on putting on a coat or 2 of cc.
--
40 years ago my mother said, 'You kneed too no how two spell'. Since I
always listened to my mother's advise, all misspelled words are either typos
or intentional.
"Braukuche" <brau...@aol.comnojunk> wrote in message
news:20020628215751...@mb-fa.aol.com...
rob
colorsanding and buffing is the way to get a better shine. Thats using non
metallic PPG AU Centurion. Where does this thin coat of clearcoat come
from?
"Oldman" <pasa...@NOSPAMattbi.com> wrote in message
news:vfmT8.193187$R61....@rwcrnsc52.ops.asp.att.net...
Oldman
With a single stage urethane, the clearcoat is in the paint.
With a basecoat/clearcoat, the color is sprayed on (it actually looks flat
when it dries) and the clearcoat is sprayed over.
The clearcoat is what actually gives the shine & protection from UV and
weathering.
Your information is correct. Colorsanding and buffing is the way to get a
better shine. It also takes care of the nibs (dust, and what have ya ) that
have been covered with clearcoat and any orange peel. The process levels
out the hills and valleys in the paint. Therefore more light is reflected,
instead of being scattered. If the substrate was only sanded down to 400,
colorsanding is almost necessary or sanding marks may show up.
The main problem with colorsanding and buffing is the possibility of going
too deep. In other words, sanding all the way through the clearcoat, into
the basecoat or sealer level. Areas around edges are real prone to this.
Some people even go as far as masking all edges so a sanding or buffing pad
can't hit it. If you do much colorsanding or buffing, the question is not
if it will happen but, when will it happen. By the way, all is not lost if
you do cut through. Just blend in the color and then clearcoat the entire
panel (another reason to love the bc/cc process).
Yes, you can colorsand and buff NON-metallic single stage paints. With
urethane, you can do that after around 24 hours (actually less for most
urethanes but 24 hours is a safe time). If you used an acrylic enamel, you
are going to have to wait for awhile. The stuff takes forever (even with a
hardener) to harden up enough to take a shine.
Most people colorsand and buff clearcoat within 24 hours. The reason being,
it's still fairly soft and is easier to work with. Myself, I sand the next
day after painting but then wait a few days before buffing. The clearcoat
is harder and gives me a little more fudge factor if I catch an edge (I
don't mask edges).
--
40 years ago my mother said, 'You kneed too no how two spell'. Since I
always listened to my mother's advise, all misspelled words are either typos
or intentional.
"rob" <rob...@ns.hotmail.com> wrote in message
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