Need HELP REAL BAD with dual KADRON carbs setup please......

[Kevin]

Howdy,

This might be a little long but I'll try to keep it as short as I can.

Got a pair of dual EMPI Solex/Kadron for my 1971 Westfalia.
They were supposedly returned to RMMW for some reason.
All hardware was brand new and never used.
Carbs appeared to have been mounted but still looked brand new with
all paint still on screws so it was evident that they were not taken
apart.
I got a good deal on them so I figured I'd bite the bullet and take a
chance on them.
I figured what could go wrong with them that you couldnt fix.

No instructions to install came with them.
When I first installed them the left carb poured gas in the carb like
crazy when it was idling....so it flooded out unless you revved it up.

Took carb apart and found brass float inside.
When I shook float it was full of gas.
So I figured problem solved if I bought a new float.

Bought new float and rebuild kit...got extra ones just in case.
Put new float, needle & seat and top gasket on.
Put the carb back on and it runs good.

BUT when I look in the carbs while it is running every second a drop
of gas drips in each carb.

Is that normal for these carbs??

BUT the real problem comes when I shut the van off.
The carbs keep dripping gas into the intake and then stops after about
a minute or so.
But as you can imagine there is now a lot of gas in the intakes.
So it is flooded and hard to start.

If I clamp off the fuel line going to both carbs the van runs much
better with the gas that is just in the carbs.
When I look in the carbs they are not dripping now.
And when I shut it off they do not drip also.

So here is my dilema.
And I dont know what to do.

My questions are:

The screw that is at the base of each carb that is obviosly the
adjustment for them.......how many turns should i turn them out or in?

Could my fuel pump (even though it is just the mechanical stock one)
have to much pressure and pushing to much gas into the carbs?

Also is the dripping when it is running normal?

I thought maybe it was the vacume for the power brake booster.
I have the vacume line going from one intake to the other and a tee in
the middle for the vacume to the booster.
It has a one way valve in it that when I took off I can only blow in
one way so I can only assume it is good.
And an arrow that says this way to engine so I have it on right.
At first I thought maybe the vacume from the booster was sucking the
gas in when I shut the van off.
But like I said if I clamp the lines and then shut the van off no
leaks.
Will these carbs work with the brake booster?

ALSO and this is a MAJOR question.
When I put the new float in there was a black plastic piece.
I put the float in with the pin and then the black plastic piece on
top off it.
Was that the right way?
Or does the black plastic piece go in first.
I could swear I remember the float on the bottom when I took it apart.

Sorry so long but thats all the details.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks
~Kevin

[Bushy]

Check the float height. It may be adjusted to high and leaving the
needle valve open a little, or your needle valves may be leaking.

Take the top off and see what height it gets to and if it has no
adjustment designed in, then you can generally bend the float assembly
to do it. Or you may have the wrong needle and seat.

Where is it dripping from, the fuel bowl vent tube, if so it is to high
a float level, or the needle is not closing properly, or the seat is not
sealed to the body of the carb allowing fuel to leak around it. The
black plastic piece I don't know, I haven't worked on this model carb.

Fuel pump pressure can be checked with a cheap combination pressure /
vacuum gauge available from most aftermarket auto shops. This will also
let you check the vacuum line and help you tune the motor.

Hope this helps,
Peter

[Alvin NG Boon Kim]

Hello Kevin,

I'm have a set of Kadrons on my '73 Super and I can help with some of your
questions. And allow me to piggyback on your thread to ask me! :-)

The black (mine is white though) plastic thing goes ABOVE the float pivot.
That is to hold your hold secure, so you seem to have gotten yours right.

The screw at the base of the carb is to adjust the air/fuel ratio. Turning
clockwise, you reduce fuel (leaner) and turning anti-clockwise, you richen
the mixture by allowing more fuel to pass.

Here comes my problems. How many turns have you got on each? I've read
numerous sites saying 3 turns out from fully in is a good starting point.
Before I bout in my lightened flywheel, I have the left with 1.5 turns and
the right FULLY IN! This is crazy. Now with the lightened flywheel, it
feels really rich and the engine is bogging and I can't turn in no more!
Someone please help me out here!

As for the vacuum line, it's supposed to be a balance tube to help
scavange the mixture so it won't misfire at idle. I heard that was said in
Gene Berg's Book of Instructions. Since you can tap it for the brake
booster, I'm wondering if I can tap it as a source for my SVDA dizzy...

I appreciate any help... The bogging is making me crazy, keeping the
chicks away and making those Honda guys grin!!!

Alvin.

[Kevin]

Alvin.....I used your starting point and turned both screws out 3 full
turns.
The bus is stock 1600 with 009.
It idles and runs great.
So 3 turns for me might be the trick.

I even took the other carb off and put the new float in that one also
as it is plastic and the ones that were in there are brazed
brass...and I figured eventually it might leak like the first one.

But I still have the first initial problem which is when I turn the
van off they leak gas inside and flood out the motor.

The gas is coming from the middle.
Not the brass tube that is next to it.

There doesnt seem to be much area in which to bend the float to adjust
the height.
And even if I did I have no clue which way to bend it.

Does anybody think that might be the problem with news carbs and now
new floats.
And if so when I hold the brass part should I bend the bowl down or
up?

Thanks much for the info Peter.

As far as checking the fuel pressure.
How would I go about doing that.
I do have a pressure gauge.

Would I just hook it up to the inlet with the motor running with what
gas is left in the carbs and see what pressure it is sucking at.
Or do I check the pressure at the outlet side?

Any other ideas or help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks
~Kevin

Alvin NG Boon Kim <sprin...@worldwidewerkz.com> wrote in message news:<3CC68EA4...@worldwidewerkz.com>...

[randy....@gmail.com]

Bending the float downward while the valve contact tab remains the same geometry to the hinge pin will lower the fuel level in bowl.
Randy

[felixla...@gmail.com]

your problen IS fuel pump pressure. you need to add some gaskets under your stock fuel pump until your fuel presure drops to an 1.5 psi, or until the problem is fixed.

also, try to look if your fuel lines gets a lot of heat.

glad to help you

[B rye]

have kadrons had to get electric fuel pump make sure u done have any gas leaks and your system holds presure. also rejetedand rebuilt with best kit i could find.look for german or french jets even mexican some after market is real junk