How do I drain the Auto trans Fluid on my Auto Stick?
NJNB
the ATF fluid and what type do I use? The Haynes manual does a weak job on
this subject.
Thanks in advance!
Larry
Bookwus1
Be advised VW recommends that the ATF not be changed unless it has been visiby
contaminated. This stuff must have a pretty long shelf life. But I can
imagine what your ATF must look like after 27 years. I think the easiest way
to approach this task is to simply drain the ATF tank at the bottom fitting.
This will leave some fluid in the torque converter (and if you want to get
that, you have to remove the TC) but should not be of major consequence. I'd
warm her up and then drain.
Replace with conventional (think: red stuff) ATF.
Hope that is of some help,
Mike
NJNB
really bad. It definitely needs to be rejuventated. I'll add that task to my
list for next weekend.
BTW....I noticed what looked like an automatic transmission drain pan when I
was changing the oil. It was rectangular and had bolts all around the flange
of the pan. What does that pan hold?
Thanks so much!
Larry
"Bookwus1" <book...@aol.com> wrote in message
news:20001210174817...@ng-bj1.aol.com...
James W. Lindsay
> Thanks a bunch Mike. I appreciate the help!! The ATF fluid in my Bug is
> really bad. It definitely needs to be rejuventated. I'll add that task to my
> list for next weekend.
If you want it done right, I'd recommend either taking your car to a VW
dealer or to a shop that still specializes in air-cooled VWs. Or, you
might have luck with a place that uses a special machine to pump in new
fluid while pumping out the old... all while the engine is running.
Simply draining the fluid from the tranny usually accounts for less than
half the total fluid volume. Some automatics feature an access hole near
the bottom of the bell housing through which you can undo a screw-in plug
in the torque converter. This allows you to drain the *entire* system.
> BTW....I noticed what looked like an automatic transmission drain pan when I
> was changing the oil. It was rectangular and had bolts all around the flange
> of the pan. What does that pan hold?
Err... automatic transmission fluid? :)
----------------------------------------------------------------
James W. Lindsay Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada
Website: http://members.home.net/jlindsay ICQ: #7521644
----------------------------------------------------------------
Circular Definition: see Definition, Circular.
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joe locicero
James W. Lindsay wrote:
> On Sun, 10 Dec 2000 23:19:39 GMT, NJNB wrote:
>
> > Thanks a bunch Mike. I appreciate the help!! The ATF fluid in my Bug is
> > really bad. It definitely needs to be rejuventated. I'll add that task to my
> > list for next weekend.
>
> If you want it done right, I'd recommend either taking your car to a VW
> dealer or to a shop that still specializes in air-cooled VWs. Or, you
> might have luck with a place that uses a special machine to pump in new
> fluid while pumping out the old... all while the engine is running.
>
> Simply draining the fluid from the tranny usually accounts for less than
> half the total fluid volume. Some automatics feature an access hole near
> the bottom of the bell housing through which you can undo a screw-in plug
> in the torque converter. This allows you to drain the *entire* system.
>
> > BTW....I noticed what looked like an automatic transmission drain pan when I
> > was changing the oil. It was rectangular and had bolts all around the flange
> > of the pan. What does that pan hold?
>
> Err... automatic transmission fluid? :)
> James,Err not, If there is a bump in the center of the pan, its the differential
> section and
> transmission and that portion of the tranny holds gear oil.
Joe
nj...@my-deja.com
This pan is flat and rectangular and looks like an auto trans fluid
pan. Does this pan hold gear oil or ATF? If it does hold ATF, why can't
the fluid be drained from this pan like any other car with an auto
trans?
Thanks!
Larry
In article <3A34D053...@spiretech.com>,
Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/
Before you buy.
joe locicero
Check to see if that pan you mention is centered between the two axles.
If so, its below the differential section of the transaxle. The
differential
and transmission are in the same housing (thats why its called a
transaxle).
That part is lubed with gear oil so if you drop the pan, that's what you'll
get. If you insist, be sure you have a gasket ready, The only part of your
tranny that uses the ATF is the torque converter and as James Lindsey
pointed out its not easily drained- even when its out of the car with a
professional torque converter flushing device. I'm sure VWOA supplied
the dealers with some sort of pumping tool to cycle out the older fluid
while pumping in new fluid- at least you'd think so. Earlier torque
converters
were more amenable to repair. Some could be taken apart and cleaned
and most of them had a drain plug to effect a complete fluid change. Not
so with the Autostick.
Torque converters of all modern cars today are sealed and only allow fluid
to enter and exit through the center.The only way to clean them is to cut
them
in half (really), clean them, rebuild them and weld them together. So your
best shot is to change as much fluid as possible as often as you like until
the fluid is to your liking. Actually, the fluid is not exposed to fiber
clutch
and band material in your car so it takes some doing to really get it
dirty.
Just be sure we are talking about a Autostick in a Bug and not a three
speed autotrans on a Type 3 or a Type 2/4. (both still use gear oil in the
differential section).
Joe
NJNB
drain and refill the ATF resevoir. Rejuvenated ATF fluid has got to be
better than that what's in there now.
Thanks again!
Larry
"joe locicero" <opsh...@spiretech.com> wrote in message
news:3A355E69...@spiretech.com...
Bruce
cooling lines and pump out the old and pump in new. This made an amazing
difference on an a dinasaur Olds of mine. I know very little about the
auto-stick, but I seem to recall it having lines to the pump on the
engine? Perhaps they could do the same thing using these lines?
Incidently, that is the only service I would let Q-Lube perform on my
vehicles any more.
In article <XYSY5.9997$U4.9...@newsread1.prod.itd.earthlink.net>, "NJNB"
<nj...@earthlink.net> wrote:
--
Bruce
Remove ? for email
aussiebug
Joe's set you straight with the ATF oil.
The autostick beetle is a funny animal. It uses the normal VW beetle
gearbox, but without 1st gear (the other ratios are the same as 2nd,
3rd and 4th). Final drive is usually 4.375, in lieu of the more common
4.125 in the manual transmission cars (in other words, the engine in a
semi-auto beetle spins a little faster at any speed than the engine in
a manual beetle). Compounding this is the fact that all torque
converters must "slip" for them to work. This means that cruising down
the road, the engine side of the torque converter must be spinning 2-3%
faster than the gearbox side, otherwise the pumping action which
provides the torque to the gearbox side doesn't exist. As you
accelerate, the slip gets greater (engine spinning even faster than the
gearbox) and this is what provides the extra torque to the gearbox
input shaft to accelerate the car.
The torque converter sits between the engine and gearbox, together with
a mechanical clutch (a small 180mm clutch as used on the 1200s.)
To change gears you touch the gear stick, which has an electrical
switch under it. This switch activates a vacuum link to the clutch
mechanism, so the clutch instantly disengages.
Now you move the gear lever, and let it go - the vacuum system lets the
clutch back in and off you go in the new gear. The clutch has almost
no slip - the "slipping" is done with the torque converter. No clutch-
slip means the smaller 180mm clutch is fine for the job, and lasts a
long time.
The VW Owner's Manual says that the ATF in the torque converter doesn't
need changing, but I'd go with your plan and replace what you can, just
to refresh it after 27 years.
The oil acts only as a pumping medium in the torque converter - it does
not provide and lubrication between gears and bands as it would in a
full automatic transmission.
That's why it doesn't need replacing regularly like the fluid in a full
auto.
You don't need one of the super-dooper new ATFs either - any Dexron11
or similar will do just fine.
The actual gearbox DOES need it's oil changed every 30,000 miles or
so. Use Hypoid Gear oil, to GL4 standard. DON'T use the newer GL5
standard - the additives are not compatible with bronze components used
in the VW gearbox. VW recommended 80 in cold climates and 90 in warmer
climates. Castrol 80w90 or 85w90 Hypoid Gear Oil or similar is fine.
You need 2.5 litres for an in-service change (3.5 litres to fill a dry
gearbox after a rebuild). It's full when the oil drips back out of the
filler plug in the side of the gearbox.
--
Rob, http://www.geocities.com/aussiebug1970/index.html
auss...@startNOSPAM.com.au
In article <HkeZ5.60908$II2.5...@newsread2.prod.itd.earthlink.net>,
NJNB
Sounds like a plan. I'll add that task to my list of chores for next
weekend. I hope it's not too cold this weekend.
Take care and thanks!
Larry
"aussiebug" <auss...@start.com.au> wrote in message
news:91452p$gbf$1...@nnrp1.deja.com...
joe locicero
Why don't you double check the 2nd gear ratio of the Autostick. I
believe its a tad lower ratio than 1:2.06 normally found on the T-1
standard trans.
I hope you guys are enjoying mid-summer.
Joe