Bus won't go into any gear while engine is running
Lamprey
plate questions. I swapped the early style plate with the new style,
and the engine slid into the tranny like a charm. Now there's another
problem....
While the engine is running, I can't go into any gear. When I try, I
can hear the engine r.p.m. drop a bit, and there's resistance in the
shifter. With the engine off, of course, I can shift just fine. The
clutch disc that's installed now is a fair bit thicker than what came
out, otherwise nothing on the tranny has changed, and the pressure
plate that's currently installed is what came out in the first place
and was working originally.
I've tried adjusting the cable, as there was no free play whatsoever
in the pedal. It's better now, still needs some adjusting, but
definitely better. Could this problem require simple cable
adjustment, or do I have a much bigger problem? It seems to me that
if it's simply a matter of clutch mis-adjustment that I would be
grinding gears and/or the van would lurch when I tried to shift, but
there's none of that.
--
----
I am a Lamprey
G.W. East
taken out of the throw bearing lever that the cable runs through, then
tighten the wing nut down to that point plus a couple of extra turns to get
you started.
--
G.W. East
http://www.gwsvws.com
G...@gwsvws.com
"Lamprey" <chris....@uwinnipeg.ca> wrote in message
news:3b65672b...@news.uwinnipeg.ca...
Speedy Jim
The synchronizers in the fwd gears prevent grinding.
I bet if you (gently) try to shift into reverse, it will grind.
But there may be something screwy here; to ensure that the
clutch dis-engages, you would want to make the cable tighter,
not looser. (This is just a test; you won't have any free-play
at the pedal.) But since you started at that point (too tight),
it makes me suspicious that something's not right with that clutch disc.
If *too* thick, the pressure plate can't pull back far enough.
Sorry I don't have any definite answers; these are the things that
went through my mind...
Speedy Jim
http://www.nls.net/mp/volks/
Lamprey
upright in bed dripping with cold sweat, and screamed:
>The synchronizers in the fwd gears prevent grinding.
>I bet if you (gently) try to shift into reverse, it will grind.
I bet you're right.
>But there may be something screwy here; to ensure that the
>clutch dis-engages, you would want to make the cable tighter,
>not looser. (This is just a test; you won't have any free-play
>at the pedal.) But since you started at that point (too tight),
>it makes me suspicious that something's not right with that clutch disc.
>If *too* thick, the pressure plate can't pull back far enough.
Well, does this make sense?
I had originally mounted the engine with no adjustments to the clutch
cable, so the ONLY change at that point was the clutch disc. When I
started the engine, in neutral, I heard a kind of rumbling/scraping
sound that was definitely coming from the tranny. Depressing the
clutch pedal made the noise go away. At that point, I figured the
thicker disc called for a cable adjustment. Naturally, the wing nut
was pretty much frozen on the cable, and I was having a helluva time
turning it. In fact, it wouldn't turn. So, out comes the engine
again so I could have easy access to the tranny. (Oh, so easy to pull
an engine out of a bus...). I crack the wingnut off the cable, clean
up and never-seize the threads, and then I replaced the wingnut, but
MUCH looser than it was. Engine back in (I'm getting much faster at
it). Now I can easily adjust the cable. At this point there's still
more freeplay than there should be, so I can definitely go tighter.
FWIW, the clutch disc came out of a previously working engine, and I
had never had any problems with it. It was the newer style pressure
plate at that point. Please don't tell me that there are specific
discs that go with specific pressure plates as well...I am getting
better at pulling/reinstalling the engine, but I'd rather not have to
do it again. The disc is maybe 1-2mm thicker than what was originally
installed.
And just to clarify this in my mind, if I make the cable TOO tight,
the clutch will never engage, meaning I will be able to go into gear,
but the van will not move, yes? Or at least, it will slip like crazy.
>Sorry I don't have any definite answers; these are the things that
>went through my mind...
Any help is appreciated. Thanks, guys. I'll give it some more
adjusting.
Speedy Jim
<Quote>
> if I make the cable TOO tight,
> the clutch will never engage, meaning I will be able to go into gear,
> but the van will not move, yes?
Yes, that's exactly right. But if making the cable real tight
still doesn't allow gear shift, *something* is wrong.
Jim
RICH
When installing a new clutch disk the disk sticks to the pressure
plate and flywheel. What you need to do is set the emergency brake
put the bus in gear then press in the clutch and start it. It may
start kinda hard with the clutch disk dragging on the pressure plate
and flywheel but it will start. Now "slip" the clutch a little bit
this should free up things.
Rich
G.W. East
put in gear and then hitting the starter to see if it would lurch forward a
little bit to check to see if the gears are indeed engaging. Make sure your
path in front is all clear, along with the rest of safety precautions for a
maneuver such as this. PULL THE COIL WIRE OFF, just use the starter.
--
G.W. East
http://www.gwsvws.com
G...@gwsvws.com
"RICH" <popcy...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:fc9d35c9.01073...@posting.google.com...
Mark
months or so. I would start the car up in 1st gear, drive around witht eh
clutch pedal pressed in, reving the engine every so far. Would break loose
after about three tries most of the time.
G.W. East <G...@gwsvws.com> wrote in message
news:tmcd48g...@corp.supernews.com...
Lamprey
the cable a lot more. It's still not perfect, but it goes into gear
and is driveable again. And WOW is it ever quieter inside than when I
bought it. Amazing what fastening the heat exchanger to the engine
instead of having it just sitting on the studs will do for noise.
I still have heat paranoia, though. I imagine that the same 1600dp
will work harder when installed in a bus than in a bug. Any opinions
on that Type III cooling tin that clips on to the bottom of the
cylinders? Does it make a big difference? Also, since a 1967 kombi
didn't originally have a 1600, is the physical airflow in the engine
bay adequate, or should I do the equivalent of propping open the
engine lid on an older bug? Anything I can do to cool things off
would be great. The whole reason I pulled the engine in the first
place was to replace the fan shroud flaps and missing tin, which is
done now. I'm not sure it is overheating, but I don't want to take
the chance. I do notice that after running for a while then shutting
it off and trying to start it right away, it starts fairly hard.
Letting it sit for a minute or two before restarting it is easier.
G.W. East
on my stroker and I do think they make a difference, even if it's only
slight, every little bit helps. Many a bus came with a 1600 and I believe
pulling in enough cool air shouldn't be any problem for your ride. As for
the hard starting right a few seconds after shutting it off, this happens
and is not uncommon, even for some older water-cooleds.
--
Till The Next Time..........,
G.W. East
http://www.gwsvws.com
G...@gwsvws.com
"Lamprey" <chris....@uwinnipeg.ca> wrote in message
news:3b66bd0b...@news.uwinnipeg.ca...
Lamprey
bolt upright in bed dripping with cold sweat, and screamed:
Thanks for putting my mind at ease. After a couple of days (granted,
they aren't 30 degree days or anything, but..), everything seems to be
going okay. I think I'll still invest in the cool tin, it's cheap
enough.
Thanks again, folks.