Oil bath Air Cleaners- any good?
ralph lindenfeld
Type 2 is the best option- or is there a higher flow filter that gets
the air clean(er). I've got an S&K on my Tercel.... and that works nicely...
--
Sincerely,
Ralph Lindenfeld
Ralph Lindenfeld Photography
Phone: (505) 262-2793
Pager: (505) 790-8499
Email: Ralph.C.Li...@alum.dartmouth.org
http://www.unm.edu/~slindenf/ralph
u...@ftc.gov
early bugs and buses.
But seriously - it's a lot more efficient than the paper-element ones.
ralph lindenfeld <ralph.c.li...@alum.dartmouth.org> wrote:
: I'm wondering if the stock oil bath air cleaner that came with my '68
TypeI67
>Type 2 is the best option- or is there a higher flow filter that gets
>the air clean(er). I've got an S&K on my Tercel.... and that works nicely...
The oil bath, while more hassle to maintain, is better than the foam or paper
air cleaners.
David
67 Bug
dragoneyre
at consistent rpm's higher than the filter was designed for, you
might consider a change. If you're basically stock, I'd say keep
it. With minor maintenance they perform well with the stock
carb. The Bus has good airflow into the engine compartment
unlike, say, the Thing, so if it's clean with fresh, proper
viscosity oil for the temps you run it in, it should be fine. I
recommend a wire mesh box over the intake horn. I used to find
plastic bags and leaves in mine once or twice a year. Really
kills performance.
One thing to check, is the warm air intake control. I think the
68 had a temperature actuated control that could be minimally
adjusted. The complete description and proceedures can be found
in the Haynes manual or the Robert Bently. My 71 has a vacuum
control that when shot, isn't worth replacing for the cost.
That's when I change over to something else. I have pictures at
my website....
http://members.xoom.com/virtualwagen
(how's that guys?)....of a Rabbit filter that I converted for use
in the Thing, that uses a low restriction K&N filter. I'm Very
pleased with the performance. I'm planning to convert a Vanagon
aircleaner for the Westy. Good Luck.
John
Dragoneyre
* Sent from RemarQ http://www.remarq.com The Internet's Discussion Network *
The fastest and easiest way to search and participate in Usenet - Free!
Eric and Allison
bath filter. if your engine is stock, you wont gain any power going to a
K&N style filter. but your rings will wear out quicker! :)
Eric
59 bug
ralph lindenfeld wrote:
>
> I'm wondering if the stock oil bath air cleaner that came with my '68
> Type 2 is the best option- or is there a higher flow filter that gets
> the air clean(er). I've got an S&K on my Tercel.... and that works nicely...
>
dragoneyre
ring wear with the setups that I use. I'm running as strong as
new at aprox. 37K on this engine. Still, I've never been able to
resist getting in there for a look around at 40 - 50K. I'll
definitely post what I see then.
SHO'N'PRV 67
>
> you wont find an air filter that will filter better than the stock oil
> bath filter. if your engine is stock, you wont gain any power going to a
> K&N style filter. but your rings will wear out quicker! :)
>
> Eric
> 59 bug
>
If you regularly maintain your K&N style filters, and oil them
properly, there shouldn't be a problem. I clean and re-oil my filters
every 1500 miles. Takes about 15 minutes.
On a stock carbed engine, I would retain the stock oil bath
aircleaners, the oil should be changed when the engine oil is changed.
Now... How do I use oil bath aircleaners on an Okrasa style dual-carbed
engine? Hmmm...
> ralph lindenfeld wrote:
> >
> > I'm wondering if the stock oil bath air cleaner that came with my '68
> > Type 2 is the best option- or is there a higher flow filter that gets
> > the air clean(er). I've got an S&K on my Tercel.... and that works nicely...
> >
> > --
> > Sincerely,
> >
> > Ralph Lindenfeld
> > Ralph Lindenfeld Photography
> > Phone: (505) 262-2793
> > Pager: (505) 790-8499
> > Email: Ralph.C.Li...@alum.dartmouth.org
> > http://www.unm.edu/~slindenf/ralph
--
Nelson Brum _|_ ,,,
67 Euro Ghia /___\ /___\
61 Ragtop Bug (O\\_//O) (o\ | /o)
Sunnyvale, CA u-----u u-----u
Visit Volkswagen Haven & Blitzkrieg VW's!
http://www.geocities.com/vw_fetish/index.html
http://www.blitzkriegvws.com/
RAMVA's FAQ index: http://www.bug-bits.freeserve.co.uk/ramva/index.htm
-"Making a mistake can be a learning experience, making the same mistake
twice is called stupidity."- Don T. Buyford
dragoneyre
70mph+ in your 59, but I found that I was sucking an excessive
amount of oil from the deep oilbath filter when maintaining high
rpms for extended periods of time in the Thing. There was a
noticable increase in power when I made the change, but that may
be due to fact that the Thing has less available air coming into
the engine compartment in the first place. I may be borrowing
air from the cooling capacity, but it certainly runs cool
enough. The performance of the warm air intake for warmup is also
infinitely improved with the Rabbit aircleaner. I certainly
wouldn't add the modification to a beatiful stock resto., but I
need what performance I can get for the driving that I do.
Veeduber
> I don't know if you do much long distance travel at
>70mph+ in your 59, but I found that I was sucking an excessive
>amount of oil from the deep oilbath filter when maintaining high
>rpms for extended periods of time in the Thing.
--------------------------------
The most common cause for the complaint of sucking up oil from the air cleaner
is that the level is too high, either from an excessive amount of trapped dirt
or from trapped MOISTURE. The complaint was commonly heard from VW owners in
rainy climates.
Another cause was traced to improper mounting of the oil bath. IF it can
bounce around, the oil will slosh onto the coir element and be drawing into the
carb.
Besides rain, temperature is also a factor in proper oil bath air-cleaner
operation. As with your sump, you need to use thick oil in hotter weather,
thinner in cold.
Some guys used 10W-30 in the oil bath then complained of sucking oil. 10W-30
is 10W oil doped with polymers. It works fine as an engine lubricant in
water-cooled vehicles but should not be used in an oil bath air cleaner unless
the ambient temperature is around 20 degrees Fahrenheit.
Booming across Baja fast enough to log a lot of flight time, you need 90W
tranny lube to keep the oil bath air cleaner working. If you're heading for
Yellowknife over the winter-time snow-roads, use kerosene in the bowl. (And
even kero goes solid at about minus 40.)
-Bob Hoover
dragoneyre
the summer (correct level), kept the filter clean and tightly
installed. We don't usually get excessively hot here in Ohio so I
never thought to try a higher weight.
Thing engine compartments do have an air intake deficit though,
and they weren't designed for the rpms that I frequent, but I'm
not quite ready to cut up my intakes or body yet. Certainly no
argument that oil baths are the most prescribed method for
engines using stock or similar carbs. I wish I could afford a set
of the dual oilbath filters for the Thing! That, I'm sure, would
satisfy my need to suck air.
Veeduber
but that can vary from daily running on the dry lakes to a couple of years in a
greener environment.
Submerge it in mineral spirits, allow to soak, then slosh, then drain. Flood
with kerosene and allow to drain over night.
If the coir element is not kept clean it clogs up, forms channels and can
produce air velocities high enough to suck oil from the bath.
The standard oil bath air cleaner has a lot of excess capacity. If it didn't,
you'd have to clean it every couple of weeks. Even with a 2.2 liter engine
turning 4500 rpm I never sucked oil, although I had to open up the inlet horn
to get rid of the whistle :-)
If you can find no solution for the problem itself, treat the SYMPTOM. Try
using a heavier oil and LESS OF IT... lower the oil level slightly. The laws
of physics are on your side here, as are the laws of statistics... tens of
millions of oil-bath air-cleaners do NOT suck oil... unless something is wrong.
-Bob Hoover
dragoneyre
and my fix didn't take, it doesn't mean it can't be fixed?
Besides being a physics outlaw, I've reeeeeally had so much
fun making this especially cool airfilter.
Ha ha, I laugh at physics.
Pardon me. Back to sanity for a moment.
Never made it to the dry lakes yet. With city and highway
driving in Ohio, and some minimal off road, I checked it
frequently and cleaned it about twice a year (could always find
some leaves and the occasional platic bag in there). I flushed
and sloshed in mineral spirits and flushed that out with
denatured alcohol, then dryed overnight, filled with oil for
about a half and hour, drained and refilled.
The coir still looks beautiful. Kerosene may be the answer
there, and a heavier weight oil.
I may,in fact, just be trying to compensate for lack of air
coming into the Thing engine compartment. The solutions there
range from dirty and ugly to visually unnoticable but very time
consuming and fussy.
Aside from that, the only thing holding me back from returning
to the oilbath is that damn vacuum actuated warm air intake on
the aircleaner. I have no desire to pay $93 for a new one or keep
trying old used ones. The Rabbit warmup assembly is definitely
superior and cheaper to replace.
Eric and Allison
>
> > I don't know if you do much long distance travel at
> >70mph+ in your 59, but I found that I was sucking an excessive
> >amount of oil from the deep oilbath filter when maintaining high
> >rpms for extended periods of time in the Thing.
> --------------------------------
it actually wasn't my 59 i ran an oil bath on. my 66 westy with a 1600
and 34 pict-3 and stock oil bath filter on it cruised 4000 quite a lot
and i never sucked oil. if you're sucking oil, somethings not right.
Eric
59 bug
Eric and Allison
Eric
ralph lindenfeld
Hmm, sounds like I should change my Tercel over to an oilbath, instead
of the K&N that I have on it now.... as soon as I get the head on it,
that is.