I have used rubber impregnated cork.
Clean and de-grease all surfaces, then glue the gasket onto the cover
and let dry. Install either with nothing on teh head side, or a thin
coat of vaseline. Make sure the valve cover bails are ok and provide
good tension. Buy new bails if in doubt. Also try to see if the covers
are warped.
My valve covers were leaking, even with new gaskets.
I got new bails and the leaks went away.
New bails will be a close fit and are somewhat difficult to move into
position onto the valve cover.
I think I got mine at
I also got a spare set of valve covers to make replacement faster when
it is paint the covers and or replace the gaskets time.
I here cork gaskets are best.
I have been using the rubber coated cork gaskets.
Here’s a good link on engine oil leaks:
http://www.vw-resource.com/oil_leakage.html#covers
It covers about everything except the transmission main shaft seal,
and a loose back-up light switch.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bill Spiliotopoulos,
'67 Bug.
Ο "1 who waits" <george...@humboldt1.com> έγραψε στο μήνυμα
news:georgewkspam-F82B...@sn-ip.vsrv-sjc.supernews.net...
--
DAN MEDINA
"1 who waits" <george...@humboldt1.com> wrote in message
news:georgewkspam-F82B...@sn-ip.vsrv-sjc.supernews.net...
been there, done that too! I fully agree.
Me three, back to original valve covers, I switched over to these:
http://www.realgaskets.com/files/automobile.htm#volkswagen
Very happy with them although they did not fix my leak, it was the
bails, second bending the bails if that fixes it new ones are in
order, pretty cheap, less than 5 bucks a piece if I recall correctly,
cheap fix for pesky valve cover leaks. I am going to switch to the
silicone oil screen gasket also on my stroker.
Darrell
thanks, guys for the input.
The bails sure seemed tight. I'm thinking since the gaskets were so think
that after a coupla heating cycles they will "settle" in. and don't we
all like a problem that fixes itself.
thanks again. g.
> On Apr 22, 7:32 pm, Jan Andersson <bugf...@spamtrap.rocketmail.com>
> wrote:
>> Funkie wrote:
>> > Don't know the history here but just in case, use original valve
>> covers and
>> > not the empi aftermarket aluminum ones despite how good they look.
>> The oem
>> > steel covers seem to seal the best. I had this problem a long time
>> ago and
>> > took it to an old school VW mechanic who fixed the problem in about 5
>> > minutes by swapping out my aftermarket covers.
>>
>> been there, done that too! I fully agree.
>
> Me three, back to original valve covers, I switched over to these:
> http://www.realgaskets.com/files/automobile.htm#volkswagen
The text in the link states: '(FITS ALL VW 4-CYL AIR-COOLED ENGINES)'.
This is not true. They do not fit the 30hp(36SAE) and older engines, not entirely sure of the brake-off date.
J.
> Very happy with them although they did not fix my leak, it was the
> bails, second bending the bails if that fixes it new ones are in
> order, pretty cheap, less than 5 bucks a piece if I recall correctly,
> cheap fix for pesky valve cover leaks. I am going to switch to the
> silicone oil screen gasket also on my stroker.
> Darrell
>
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Using Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: http://www.opera.com/mail/
The gasket is glued to the cover using gasket shellac or similar.
The sealing surface receives a light coating of grease; no sealant of
any kind.
Trial-fit the valve cover to ensure there is no casting flash or other
obstruction that might cause the valve cover to be held out of
position when the bail is put in place.
-Bob Hoover
Having been down this road, here is what has always worked for me:
Stock black VW valve cover
Stock VW valve cover bale/wire clip
Stock Cork gasket
Glue the gasket into the cover with RTV. Do not apply sealer to the
face of the gasket touching the head, only glue the back side of the
gasket to the cover. I put a light smear of grease on the side of the
gasket that will touch the head.
Make sure the sealing surface on the head is free of blemishes. If you
find any gouges here you will need to fix it. I do this job with
various grits of sandpaper, before you start put a couple shop rags
over the rockers and into the interior part of the valve area to keep
any metal from getting in there. I usually finish things off with 800
or 1000 grit, I like the surface to be very smooth and free of
defects. Make sure the sealing surface is CLEAN, use some brake
cleaner on a paper towel if in doubt.
A good valve cover wire clip will be tight enough that you will need
to use a screwdriver or similar to walk it up into the proper position
when installing the cover. If you can push it up into the groove with
your bare hand, it is not tight enough and will probably leak.
I don't change these gaskets unless they are leaking, and to be
honest, they do seem to go quite a few miles/valve adjustments if you
do the proper prep work before installing them.
Good luck with it.
Chris
Are you using original or aftermarket covers and clamps? My old 1303S
used to leak - until I fitted original VW covers! Aftermarket ones don't
fit well at all.
--
http://www.howard81.co.uk/