Should I Add a Zinc Oil Additive?

[Jim Ed]

I was reading on this group about zinc being removed from today's
motor oil.
...something about that this causes wear in pre-1989 engines with flat
lifters.

I usually use Castrol 30HD in Spring and Fall, Castrol 40HD in Summer,
and Castrol 10 W30 in Winter in my 1973 Beetle.

Would you recommend this additive?

http://www.eastwood.com/zddp-plus-oil-additive-3-pack.html

Thanks In Advance!

[Randall]

8 bucks for 4 oz. added to every 4-5 quarts of oil doesn't seem like a
cost effective way of combating the problem of not having ZDDP in
today's (non-racing) motor oil. It would be better to buy oil that
already has that ingredient in it.

Here's the viewpoint of Jake Raby, a highly respected VW engine builder,
on his website. See the 2nd post there.
http://forums.aircooledtechnology.com/showthread.php?t=3378

This site http://www.lnengineering.com/oil.html#Z25 has more information
than a person can absorb in one sitting. There are a few FAQs
specifically on ZDDP. The site also recommends three brands of oil with
ZDDP in them.

-- Randall

[P.J.Berg]

Or simply buy a Diesel spec oil which still contains Zinc..

J.

--
Using Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: http://www.opera.com/mail/

[Randall]

>>
>>
>> 8 bucks for 4 oz. added to every 4-5 quarts of oil doesn't seem like a
>> cost effective way of combating the problem of not having ZDDP in
>> today's (non-racing) motor oil. It would be better to buy oil that
>> already has that ingredient in it.
>>
>> Here's the viewpoint of Jake Raby, a highly respected VW engine
>> builder, on his website. See the 2nd post there.
>> http://forums.aircooledtechnology.com/showthread.php?t=3378
>>
>> This site http://www.lnengineering.com/oil.html#Z25 has more
>> information than a person can absorb in one sitting. There are a few
>> FAQs specifically on ZDDP. The site also recommends three brands of
>> oil with ZDDP in them.
>>
>>
>>
>> -- Randall
>
> Or simply buy a Diesel spec oil which still contains Zinc..
>
> J.
>
>

According to this site, here is an explanation why diesel engine oils
shouldn't be used in gasoline engines.
http://www.cam-shield.com/acatalog/diesel.html

Also, what was true about the ZDDP content in diesel oil a year ago
isn't true today. The current diesel oil that meets the API CJ-4
classification has reduced levels of ZDDP compared to the previous CI-4.
Check out the last paragraph at:
http://www.zddplus.com/TechBrief6%20-%20Diesel%20Oil%20Use%20in%20Classic%20and%20High-Performance%20Gasoline%20Engines.pdf

-- Randall

[John]

I,ve been using an oil claimed to suit petrol and "light diesel engines".
Trying to put aside the placebo effect I,ve noticed that starting isnt
accompanied by the same noises as the usual petrol only. Definitely seems
quieter.
John

[Jim Ed]

Since I already had almost a case of Castrol on the shelf, I went
ahead and ordered 3 bottles of ZDDP (plus) today.
They charged me $9.95 for ground shipping which brought the total to
$34.24.

[Bill]

On Jun 15, 7:13 pm, "P.J.Berg" <BergR...@invalid.invalid> wrote:
> Or simply buy a Diesel spec oil which still contains Zinc..
>
> J.

This is the way to go. The "good stuff" usually comes in 1gal or 5qt
(Walmart) jugs, since this is how the big-rig guys buy the stuff.
I've used Shell Rotella straight 30wt in aircooled VW and 4cyl
Porsches and it works well and is cheap. The cheap part is important,
because if you have a carb(s) your oil is going to be comtaminated
with fuel in a relatively short time. The point is that an expensive
full synthetic or "racing" oil will need changing before any cost
benefit can be realized. The so-called HDEOs are such bargains that
you can change them at very frequent intervals. I also have a couple
of friends who track their early 911's and use either the Shell or
Delo 15-40wt with great success and aren't afraid to change their oil
after 2 track days (one of the cars, with trombone oil cooler, holds
14+qts!)
Bill.

[P.J.Berg]

Yes, it was the Rotella I had in mind. Even sold under the same name up
here.

[Jim Ed]

On Jun 16, 12:57 am, Randall <rap...@earthlink.net> wrote:
> >> 8 bucks for 4 oz. added to every 4-5 quarts of oil doesn't seem like a
> >> cost effective way of combating the problem of not having ZDDP in
> >> today's (non-racing) motor oil. It would be better to buy oil that
> >> already has that ingredient in it.
>
> >> Here's the viewpoint of Jake Raby, a highly respected VW engine
> >> builder,   on his website. See the 2nd post there.
> >>http://forums.aircooledtechnology.com/showthread.php?t=3378
>

> >> This sitehttp://www.lnengineering.com/oil.html#Z25has more

> >> information than a person can absorb in one sitting. There are a few
> >> FAQs specifically on ZDDP. The site also recommends three brands of
> >> oil with ZDDP in them.
>
> >> -- Randall
>
> > Or simply buy a Diesel spec oil which still contains Zinc..
>
> > J.
>
> According to this site, here is an explanation why diesel engine oils

> shouldn't be used in gasoline engines.http://www.cam-shield.com/acatalog/diesel.html

>
> Also, what was true about the ZDDP content in diesel oil a year ago
> isn't true today. The current diesel oil that meets the API CJ-4
> classification has reduced levels of ZDDP compared to the previous CI-4.

> Check out the last paragraph at:http://www.zddplus.com/TechBrief6%20-%20Diesel%20Oil%20Use%20in%20Cla...
>
> -- Randall

------------------------------------------------------------------

Does that mean that the Shell Rotella oil they sell in local stores
is for diesel engines that make a lot of soot and reduces the ZDDP to
a level not satisfactory for gasoline engines?

It would seem that adding the ZDDP (Plus) additive or even better
using Brad Penn oil with zinc would best the best ways to go.

What about Royal Purple?

http://www.amazon.com/Grade-20W50-Partially-Synthetic-Motor/dp/B001HO35DW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=automotive&qid=1246476918&sr=1-1

http://www.royalpurple.com/

I would like to be able to buy it at a local store.

[P.J.Berg]

It means the Rotella has the desired zink content, does not soot(the
diesel itself does that) and stands up to the extreme bearing load a big
diesel goes through.
Yes, there are non diesel spec oils on the market which works well, Royal
purple has been mentioned, as have other small U.s. only companies.

Rotella has been around for a long time being made(blended) by a well
known company.
It is your money and your choice..

If you care to read through some of Rabys writings and less than
scientific testing(he swears to hands on..), he has come up with a small
U.s. blender which supposedly is great, his words not mine..

[Bill]

> http://www.amazon.com/Grade-20W50-Partially-Synthetic-Motor/dp/B001HO...
>
> http://www.royalpurple.com/
>
> I would like to be able to buy it at a local store.- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

I think the point is this:
If you have lots of money &/or just like to know that you have the
latest and greatest motor oil in your sump (& there's nothing wrong
with either) then there's really no argument to be made. My point was
based on value/price vs. the effective life of the motor oil. With
typical carb setups, any oil you put in there will have to be changed
in a relatively short time due to fuel contamination. While some of
the botique oils might not shear down as quickly, they'll still have
to be changed at a short OCI. Among the more reasonably priced oils,
the HDEO's for big-rigs are (IMO) the best, because they have to meet
the heavy demands of commercially operated diesel engines and don't
have to concern themself as much with negative effects on gasoline
auto cat converters. Certainly, some of the "true" synthetics like
Mobil1 15-50, RP, Amsoil, Redline, etc. are great oils, but maybe not
great enough to stretch out an OCI in a carbed motor when the same
money can buy multiple 5-gallon jugs of good HDEO allowing numerous
oil changes for the same (or less) money.
JMO.
Bill.