SOLVED 009+SOLEX PROBLEM!!!!!
winnoc Potters
The accelerator pumpline was clogged as well.
I soaked the carb in thinner for a day; then i used airpressure to blow
the dirt out.
Replaced all gaskets etc (rebuilt carb).
The accelerator pump was working very good now, but still the engine
seemed to delay when i pressed the gaspedal, sometimes it would seem as
if it had the hickups before it accelerated or even died on me.
Power under load was almost nonexistant.
After reading the "Poor man's Weber" article I adjusted my carb.
I installed a new big tube extractor exhaust, took out the main jet and
ran a .047 ribbed guitar string through it (about 20 times), while
pulling it sideways. The stainless steel is stronger than the copper,
therefore it increased the jet size a bit.
Next step was to close the hole in the throttle plate.
I sanded down the surface on both sides and used a torch and soldering
wire to melt it shut (on bith sides!!!).
I had to adjust the idle screw and idle speed screw afterwards, but man,
does this engine have power now!!!!!! It accelerates perfectly, with a
deep growl.
Made me very happy.
Thanks Bob Donalds
Winnnoc Potters
http://www.geocities.com/baja/dunes/3807/vw.htm
(READ LOWER FILE!!!!!!!!!!!!!)
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A Gearhead's View of
The 009 Hesitation Blues '97
By Bob Donalds
When your original distributor fails, or if you just want to
get
the latest and greatest, you reach for the fully centrifugal 009
distributor or one of its cousins. When the 009 is used with the
30-PICT-3 or any 34 PICT carburetor, problems begin to happen
faster
than you can turn the adjustment screws. Where do you time the new
distributor? Do you use the old timing mark? What does the old
timing
mark mean? Why won't my engine idle?
First, most original distributors in the dual port were
designed
to run with an idle timing of 5 degrees ATDC (After Top Dead
Center).
The 009 should be timed at 10 degrees BTDC (Before Top Dead
Center).
Setting the 009 at a timing mark of 5 ATDC would give you an
inadequate advance of about 17 degrees total. Now your engine may
idle
nicely but you risk melting a piston. The air cooled type 1, pre 72
type 2, and type 3 VW engine needs a total advance of 32 degrees
BTDC.
This number is often disputed but it works for me. To check total
timing, I rev the engine with my timing light connected. The 0
degrees
mark should now end up at the fan belt where it lifts off the
pulley.
When the 009 is set at 10 degrees, this timing change of 15 degrees
raises the idle so high you need to lower it by turning the idle
speed
adjusting almost all the way. Naturally this shuts down the idle
circuit. The engine is now getting so little fuel; it barely idles.
If
it does idle, it won't transition to the next carburetor circuit
without massive hesitation even with a good accelerator pump. Also,
the throttle plate if not closed at warm idle, will create the same
effect.
On the dual port crank pulley there is a dent on the opposite
side
of the original timing mark and slightly to the right. I take the
middle of this dent as 0 degrees. Take the points of an open-end 15
mm
wrench and lay the left side of the wrench in the middle of the
dent
and the right side will fall at approximately 10 degrees BTDC. File
a
new notch at that spot, I then mark it with red touch-up paint.
The next step to a proper idle is to install a pop rivet in the
hole of the throttle plate. Trust me, it works. This is the brass
plate at the base of the carburetor that opens when you press the
gas
pedal. Now all the air the engine draws in at a idle must come
through
the idle circuit. You can now back out the idle speed adjusting
screw,
restoring the idle by allowing enough air into the carburetor idle
circuits thereby picking up the fuel needed to obtain an idle. You
can
now set the timing at 10 BTDC with your 009 distributor and have
the
fuel needed for a stable idle and smooth transition to the
high-speed
circuits.
When rebuilding engines, I lower my compression ratio to
prevent
pre-ignition and overheating with a semi-hemi cut in the combustion
chamber. This allows me to run 2 to 4 degrees more timing without
the
engine getting too hot. The carburetor might also need a larger
main
jet.
Does the engine run out of power just past the idle at 1500 rpm
or
so and putting the pedal to floor isn't much help? I find larger,
main
jets commonly needed to help with this mid-range hesitation and
additonally can increase top end. My best guess for main jet size
on a
otherwise stock engine is # 135 the carb comes stock with a # 127.5
unless it's a 71 type 2 then it's a #125.Gene Berg Enterprises is a
good source for main jets.
Changing the main jet to a larger size can improve gas mileage
because less gas pedal is needed to get up to speed. Rejetting is
common when running a non-stock exhaust. These exhaust lower the
back
pressure and tend to lean the motor out. Of course before
rejetting,
be sure you have reviewed the basic tune-up, having a proper
pre-heater for the carburetor below 50 degrees. Check your valve
adjustment and make sure you have enough compression for the motor
to
idle. Any cylinder with under 100 pounds compression will not fire
at
an idle. Tuning for performance is done one change at a time with a
fully warmed up engine, and the test drive is the measure of
success.
The original timing set up with the idle settings at 5 degrees
BTDC was to reduce hydrocarbons for the now standard tail pipe
emission test. Be clear that the 009 distributor will increase tail
pipe hydrocarbons when timed . Depending on the emission laws where
you live, this can make the difference when trying to pass the tail
pipe sniff test.
[Image]~Boston Bob
John Henry
article at teh BugShop in the "Reader Contributed" section.
--
John Henry
---------------
Visit the "BugShop" at http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/4000
"The opinions expressed herein are not necessarily those of my employer,
not necessarily mine, and probably not necessary."
PumaRacing
>> pulling it sideways. The stainless steel is stronger than the copper,
>> therefore it increased the jet size a bit.
<snip>
Guitar string as main jet drill eh ? I will add that to the aluminium port
whittling knife on my Xmas present list.
Dave Baker at Puma Race Engines (London - England) - specialist flow
development and engine work. Puma billet aluminium throttle bodies from £390
per 4 cylinder set. Grooved brake discs coming soon.
G.W. East
George
PumaRacing wrote in message
<19981104161135...@ng-fa2.aol.com>...
>>> ran a .047 ribbed guitar string through it (about 20 times), while
>>> pulling it sideways. The stainless steel is stronger than the copper,
>>> therefore it increased the jet size a bit.
>